I can't imagine the e tap making a big difference for breaking down for transport.

With either you still have brake cables in base bar that limit how you can maneuver the aero bars. If you want to disconnect the extension from aero bar still easy to do on Di2 by just unplugging from front junction box.

When dealing with disassembling/assembling the front end of the Speed Concept for travel, there won't be any functional difference between eTap and Di2. Tell your shop to run the aerobar shifters outside of the monospacer to make life easier for you. Your junction box will sit on top of the stem cover. Simply unhook the wires going to the aerobar shifters, unscrew the three screws holding the base bar on, and you'll be ready to pack your bike up for travel.

Edit: you'll also have to pull the wedge from the front brake :)

I'm noticing some play when I press down on my aerobars towards the ground. I've checked every bolt on the front end (including steering axle bolt). The front end flexes ever so slightly when pressing down on the aero bars. I press down on the base bars and there is no flex/issue. My guess is that the stem is not on right or since I have swapped to the zipp evo bars, I now have more leverage/torque on the front end.

Anyway, can someone confirm that gap at the steerer tube is normal or is it more than it should. This is a low/far stem.

Don't want to have to take everything apart again unless I have to.

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Your headset might be a little loose. My front end was "clunking" a bit and that's what it was.

Yeah that's the steering axle. Checked it. It's tight.

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Picture isn't working for me.

How about now?

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I find eTap makes travel immensely easier than when on di2.

I have access to the blip box on the stem cover.

Pull out the blips (which are numbered for easy reassembly). The whole mono extension comes off.

Yes, the base bar still has cables but having the mono off of there makes packing so much easier. The base falls to the side. Strap it down and you're done.

I give the eTap a big thumbs up on the SC

And you should be able to get the eTap TT upgrade group for ~$1300 online

Nope :/ Who are you trying to host the image through?

google photos. Been using google photos for the last year or so. Not sure what's going on and why it won't work. I just uploaded it to tinypic. Should work now.

I took everything apart this morning. Loosened every bolt and tightened it back up (and greased everything). Boy was there a lot of sweat build up in there thanks to south FL heat. Almost got everything put back together but I had to run to work. Will finish it up after work today and hopefully that solves it. I did tighten the headset a bit more. I don't have a torque wrench bit big enough to fit the steering axle (to make sure its 2 NM) so I just used one of my t-handles from silca. Hopefully this does it. If not, not much I can do..... it's been doing this for a while now (since I swapped to evo bars I believe). Usually when something isn't tight on the front end, I get creaking noise or I can feel some flex on the base bars. Neither of which are happening.

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Okay, so I ordered an eTap aero kit last night. I also ordered a set of clics for the extensions.

So as far as installation on the 7.5 SC goes I need some tips ;)

From what I can tell this is what I have to do:

Remove the mechanical group:

- snip the shift wires and pull through the end of the mech shifters

- remove FD, RD and shifters

- remove stem cover

- disconnect front brake (pull the wedge)?

- undo the 3 screws under the base bar: this detaches the base bar from the stem and the mono extension + spacer assembly

- disconnect shift housing from mono ext. from the double stop where it joins the frame routed housing

- pull shift housing out of the frame? do I need to remove the rear brake and disconnect from the bottom cable guide too or will it just come out through the hole in the head tube?

Install eTap shifters:

- make a cut in the stem cover for wires to come out (using low far stem with 25mm spacer). Planning to place the blip box on the stem cover with backwards with ports facing the front of the bike). There's virtually no room at the front of the stem cover for anything to come out so I assume I need to make a hole or a cutout or something in the cover.

- install clics: route wires through the end of the extensions (using the plug-in) and then into the spacer and through the stem cover into the blip box

- install base bar blips. Do I need to remove the brake levers? will the wires fit through the same hole where the brake housing is routed through? any tips on how pull the wire through the bar without removing the levers brake cables and housing?

Put everything back together...

I wouldn't disconnect the brakes. There's no need to do that. The FD and RD housing should pull through easy enough. I'd start by removing the stem cover and pulling the housing through to that point, lay it to the side of the frame, and then remove the monospacer and pull that through base bar, and then finish off by pulling the housing through the extensions. Also, I find it's helpful to pull the shifter cable first as the housing has a bit more give to it without the cable present.

As for installing the clics, there's a hole on the underside of the base bar you can fish the wire through. Just be patient. As for your blip box I'd have the ports face you and have the wires come out the back of the stem cover (there's enough room there).

I just installed etap on my sc and as far as the base bar blip wires go, I had to remove brake cable because I just couldn't fish the blip wire through with the brake cables already routed. I tried but just couldn't get it. I have a near short stem so I put blip box on a garmin mount on the end of the mono aerobar. There wasn't much room on the stem cover for the box.

Cool! So no need to remove the base bar (the 3 hex screws underneath)?

Thanks,
I have a low far stem so there should be a little more room on top of the cover. I also have a ton of tilt in the mono extension but hopefully it will fit.

You might have to remove them, you might have to just loosen them. I'd start by just loosening them.... primarily the two closest to the head tube so you can "tilt" the mono riser forward to help you pull the housing out.

Gotta link? looking to upgrade to this.

Best today I see is $1395 on eBay but If your not in a hurry you’ll see them for less periodically

I ordered mine from mybikeshop. It was a take off set for $1525 and with a 15% off code it was $1300.

Also check out sunrise cyclery, they have a 15% off coupon sunrise15 so it ends up being $1400.

This is the cheapest I could find now. Might be better deals around black Friday.

Can I run a Vision base bar with Bontrager levers on my Speed Concept ? I guess I'm asking if there is an adapter for the levers to fit the bars ?
Thanks !
Flanders

I am doing just that. One of the older aluminum non-UCI Vision base bars to be exact. I had the Trek store do the install and if I remember correctly that needed a few parts which they had in stock.

Of course if you have the integrated bars there would be no reason to run Vision or other aftermarket bars.

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Madison photographer Timothy Hughes | Instagram

Holy rust! You need to get that checked it fixed soon. You can even see the dust from rust running off on headtube area.

I have a brand new speed concept. I transferred over my old Hilo bontrager saddle with round rails from my previous speed concept.

Today I bought the new Hilo carbon saddle, but it has oblong rails. Does anybody know what part I need to successfully mount the saddle to the news speed concept?

If i’m not mistaken, you’ll need this part

https://www.trekbikes.com/...pt-seatpost/p/11879/