Great...now that we have pad #s it's easier to put your height and inseam in context.

I think you're right between sizes on a 7.5 or 9-series. For a 7.0 the large is probably most appropriate, especially for that slammed no-spacer look, but if you ever wanted to upgrade the cockpit to the integrated hardware of the 7.5 and 9-series bikes you wouldn't be able to get that low in front...the lowest the large can go with that system is 605 at the pads.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,
I have a question on the spec of front/rear brake caliper removal. The front caliper can be pulled out with ease by fingers after the triangle wedge has pinched out, while the rear caliper can't. Is this correct spec ?
Now that I'm trying to exchange rear brake wire/housing by myself, is it possible to remove the whole rear brake caliper set by unscrewing two bolts behind the spring ?

not quite sure I understand the question...

on the original SC, both the front and rear brake arms could slide off of their posts when the brake covers were removed.

on the new SC, the front brake arms are bolted onto the fork directly, and the rear brake arms are part of an assembly which is bolted to the frame under the BB.

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Carl Matson

I don't understand what you mean by the front brake can be "slided out".

In the meantime, here's a link to the 2014-2015 SC service manual...which may help in communication. The front brake and how it is mounted to the fork can be found on pages 24-25. There is one difference since that was published: the e-clip referenced in figure 10.2 has been replaced by a standard washer.

If you remove the bolts holding the front brake arms to the fork, yes, the bolt will slide out...but the arms don't slide off the bolt until the bolt is removed from the fork.

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Carl Matson

Carl,
I apologize. My memory was not good. I opened up the front cover of the front caliper and found it was surely bolted. It won't slide anywhere until it was unbolted. Sorry for annoying you.
Anyway, I understand that two bolts behind the spring at the rear caliper have to be unscrewed for exchanging new wire and cable housing. Thanks a lots.

hey, no worries! I knew there had to be an easy explanation...just wasn't sure how to get there :-)

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Carl Matson

Carl,
I tried to remove the rear brake caliper unit by myself, by unscewing the two bolts behind coil, for exchanging with new wire and its housing, however LBS has warned me not to take off the unit, because the base plate wants to align and adjust in due course, which is very hard and tough for untrained person. Is this true ? Is it impossible to go back on track just when the two bolts are screwed again as it was, after having replaced the new one's ?

The rear brake on the previous generation SC was more difficult to adjust than the new one. There is actually less adjustment available at the base plate than before. Whether or not this is tough for you to do on your own I don't know...I don't know how good you are at wrenching on bikes. If you aren't confident, then let the shop do it. If you want to take a chance and learn something about your bike, do it yourself.

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Carl Matson

Carl,
Thanks. I'll try a trick that the rear brake unit is not removed, for exchanging wire and housing. Nevertherless, when I have a trouble, I'll bring it to LBS.

Does anyone know what the inner diameter is on base bar for the brake levers?

nominal is 20mm

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl.

Here's another question for you. I tore apart my front end for some annual maintenance and I need to replace the headset bearings. The lower bearing from Cane Creek is a relatively common bearing. The upper headset bearing from Enduro seems to be an uncommon size. I know the part can be sourced from an authorized Trek retailer, but what was the engineering consideration for the 14.2 x 25 x 6.5mm bearing?

Minimizing frontal area

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Carl Matson

Can the speed concept 7.5 be ordered just a frameset?

No, just the 9-series.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,

would you know whether the wedges for the front and rear brake of the 2015 SC would be in stock at Trek HQ and could be ordered to a store in San Diego?
Parts No.:
Front wedge: W331783,
Rear wedge: Wedge W331781

Thanks,

Tim

Hi Tim-

Both parts are showing in stock at our distribution center just up the road in Ontario.

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Carl Matson

Carl,
I would like to try this to erase some noise somewhere in the frame. Would you help me detect the exact parts, referring to the 2014 Service Information, Figure 6.1 at Page 7. I will try to screw them in the following order.
1. Double stem attachment bolts (10Nm)
2. Is this Sterring lock bolt (6Nm), isn't this ?
3. Steering axle pinch bolt (5.2Nm)
And, what about Steering axle (2Nm) to adjust ?
Sincerely yours,

I don't know if any of the steps I listed for DFWtri will help you. DFW described a creak in the cockpit...you say there's a noise (what kind of noise?) in the frame. Different place and possibly different noise = probably different fix. As always, this is hard to do over the internet...in-person in a bike shop makes it easier to see and hear what's going on.

That said, the only part in the figure you refer to which has a completely different label from what I said to DFW is the steering axle...which I called the bearing preload "nut" (since it has a similar function to the bearing preload nut which was an actual part on the original SC). And I did omit the step of loosening and retightening the steering lock bolt. So the sequence should be:

1) Loosen the stem attachment bolts, steering lock bolt, and stem pinch bolt (in no particular order)
2) retighten to spec torque in this order:

a)stem attachment bolts
b)give the steering axle a 1/4 turn to loosen then 1/4 turn back (to spec torque)...this allows the stem pinch band to settle
c)steering axle pinch bolt
d)steering lock bolt

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Carl Matson

Thought I would post my bike. 2014 7.5 model with a little blue decal set up. Not sure about keeping the downtube stripe.

How did you go about getting the vinyl decals to fit? Did u take the dimensions and then bring them to get laser cut or did u just purchase some vinyl and hand cut them yourself?

I measured and took pics. Sent the info and pics to nick (scnick) and he went from there. I wanted a blueish grenn ala trek leopard color, but this works out. I have 60/90 flos and not sure what I want to do with their coloring. Front is stealth red and back is stealth blue.