The word he has is that it is discontinued. But I see it on the dropdown on the website in the new color scheme, so I was hoping he is wrong. I snagged one of the last two frames and am having it repainted (purple/pink?? No. Just no.)

Glad to hear you got one!

I don't envy the color & graphics folks...I'd go crazy in that job. My wife and daughter wouldn't go anywhere near that current 9.5 scheme either...but when I was doing a little bike-picking consultation with someone else she was all set to get the 7.5...until she saw the 9.5. "Purple!! That's my color! That's my family's color!" You just never know.

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Carl Matson

agreed, Purple color on the 9.5 WSD, yuck! not for me either.

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Owner of a few Speed Concepts since 2011.

Been trying to diagnose a big creaking noise coming from my bike only when I pedal while standing. I've checked every bolt on the bike, put carbon paste on the seat post, re-greased my crank spindle, and greased my pedals. I think its coming from the BB but its hard to tell. Doing the things above usually fixed any noise issues on the old bike. The new bike has me stumped. The bike is extremely quiet sitting (pedaling or not). Any ideas?

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blog

check the torque on your stem pinch bolt (the one on the side that clamps the back of the stem to the steer tube)...might have to remove the stem cover to access it. if you want to go the extra step in the same area, remove stem from fork & steerer, thoroughly clean the inside of the pinch band and the outside of the steerer where it gets clamped, then reassemble.

a really odd one that I'd heard of in the past (though really only on the old bike...not so much on the new one) is the QR's rubbing on the dropouts because they're not tight enough and/or the serrations meant to dig into the dropouts had worn smooth.

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Carl Matson

Well, then if we ever replace my wife's Gen 1 SC 7.0 it won't be with a Trek as she never could fit on the small. Hope that isn't true!

I've previously read the speed concept manual online at
http://www.trekbikes.com/...t_Service_Manual.pdf
but now that link is broken. Is it still available anywhere?

it's not on the website since the revamp. I noticed that right away and sent a note to the content guys.

in the meantime, courtesy of the wayback machine:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140326194219/http://www.trekbikes.com/pdf/owners_manuals/Trek_2014_Speed_Concept_Service_Manual.pdf

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Carl Matson

Thanks. I should have thought of that.

ANyone had any issues with the 2 bolts that hold the top cradle on breaking? Was starting a trainer session today and went to lay on the bars and rear bolt snapped off in the tbolt. Frustrating that a bolt kit is like $65 to replace this bolt and T-nut. Could probably get the bolt out of the T-Nut but was curious if I should be looking for better quality hardware. FYI I havent touched these since I got the bike and it's actually a 2015 model.

Hey mate, had the same problem... Was a creaking sound coming from what I though was the bb area.... Only when standing... Even if I put the same power through the cranks when seated it wouldn't make the same sound...
I made sure there was good clearance on the dérailleurs, removed the chainset and made sure everything looked good (eg bottom bracket seating etc)...
Then I couldn't be bothered fiddling around with it as I had only just bought the bike so I took it back to the store...
Mechanics told me that it was coming from the headset/basebar and all it needed was some carbon paste/lube... My theory is it sounded as if it was coming from the bb because of the deep tubing of the frame and the sound traveling down it.
Good luck mate

Jeremy

Is the universal monoextension still available/recommended? Or has the standard monoextension been upgraded since 2014, making the universal irrelevant?

Do you mean the "plug'n'play" mono?



It's still available.

There have been no changes to the other monoextensions...but I'm curious: what sort of changes would you expect in an "upgraded" version of any of them?

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Carl Matson

Carl,

I stupidly rounded off of the smaller speed fin screws. It has rounded off that I can't get an allen key to "grab" it and unscrew (just spings). Any idea's/suggestions on how to get the screw out to take off the speed fin? I've tried needle nose pliers but I can't a grip on the screw. The screw is probably a quarter turn or less from being snug so its not like its loose enough to grab it with any kind of tool. I was thinking of using a dremel tool to cut the head of the screw perpendicularly so I can get get a screw driver in there (did this before on my old sc on the aero bar clamp screws) but I don't think I will be able to get a dremel in there with the shape of the speed fin.

I'm open to ideas if anyone has any.

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blog

first I would see if your LBS has any recommendations or if they want to take it on...this is something I'd expect them to have seen if they've been working on bikes for any length of time.


if you're going the DIY route, safety first (safety glasses etc) and go slow:


from the comment about not being able to get a dremel in there I'm guessing this is the forward bolt that goes into the frame, not one of the two aft bolts which go into the brake posts? with the cranks off you should be able to get at the latter pretty easily to do the dremel thing.

for the forward bolt, or if you can't get at the aft bolts with your rotary tool, there are probably screw extractors small enough to get in there. another "easy" way may be to simply drill out the head (i.e. you actually drill the head off) and then grab the remaining threaded portion with a pliers once the cover is off. here's a video (you can't/don't need to do the visegrips part, obviously).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otlcMuuYuh4

here's another video which starts out in a similar fashion, but instead of going deep enough to actually drill the head off he taps in a torx bit and unscrews everything at once. I wouldn't try this with a torx bit that I cared about though...nor would I hammer very hard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7v5jhJK3tgg

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Carl Matson

It's the aft bolt on the non drive side. Didn't think about taking off the crank.

I like the drill bit idea. The screw is an M3 right? I think a 2.5mm drill bit will drill it right off.

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blog

M4, actually

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Carl Matson

Good Evening Carl,

What are the measurements on the rear brake mounting bolts?

Thanks

It's a custom M6 bolt with a low profile head, and they are 24mm apart

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Carl Matson

Yes, that's what I meant. Do you have a link to it? I can't find it.
I was thinking that it might work better with my Torhans AeroZ. Plus, it would be easier to change extension style.
That said, my bike is at the shop, but hasn't been built, so I haven't had a chance to play with what came with it yet.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-components/bike-handlebars/bontrager-speed-concept-mono-bar-extension/p/11862


it's the 5th picture down, and choose "NA" for the bend if you want to put it in your cart.

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Carl Matson

I had a similar aggravating noise for months... Only when sitting in non-aero position, hands on the base bar, once per rev of the cranks. I was sure it was coming from the crank so I change the BB, chain rings etc.

Turned out to be the headset bearings...

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T. Guertin / Spocket

Carl,

I know this has been answered before in this thread, but for I cant find it. What is the part number for the between the arm bottle mount. I only need the mounting bar and not the bar + cage.

Thanks

512178

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Carl Matson

Thank you, Carl!