BBLOEHR wrote:
hopper1 wrote:
BBLOEHR wrote:
hopper1 wrote:
BBLOEHR wrote:
hopper1 wrote:
I did have a Sitero Pro, brought over from previous bike. Loved it, but had real difficulty setting the angle!
As it was a Pro, I also had real difficulty finding the right oval rail clamps...
Eventually, I changed to a Prologo Tgale. Good saddle, even if it looks brutall.
Now, I have sussed the bloody clamp, to set at any angle, I'm going to get another Sitero (2018) and return to it.
Ok so I am not alone. I guess I could file down the inside of the clamp from the front and but a shim on the back of the clamp to get it to angle forward now. It might just be easier to go with a different seat. I have had to do a lot with this bike to get it where I want it. Almost there.
That seems quite a drastic move to make!
I struggled with my saddle angle until I found the instructions that show how to alter the angle 0.5 degree at a time.
My current saddle is now set at 3 degrees. And I know I could set the Sitero at that, too.
Where are those instructions! The Sitero rails also don't quite fit the clamp and is always some play in saddle forward and back. Not the biggest deal since once you put weight on it it stays in a more forward angle.
I take it you have The Sitero Pro, with oval rails, then?
I have 2 Sitero saddles now, both with yes "oval" rails :-( Not sure if i should blame myself, specialized or felt.
Okay, well to add further confusion, 3T have two clamps for oval rails. I think you'll find that one is for
10 x 7mm, which is for the likes of Fizik saddles, but I believe the Sitero rails are
9 x 7mm and that requires the other model! (I'll check through my emails to see if I can find the required model number, as I had quite a discussion with 3T direct about this.
For setting the angle, I found this info to work...
The difflock mechanism in the Felt IA is actually quite simple to adjust to get the saddle level. However, it is not conventional so getting the angle that you need may not seem obvious at first.
You can use the Compass setting on your smart phone which has an angle finder if you swipe to the right. Place a book or clipboard or some flat surface on your saddle. Then using the edge of your phone as the angle finder check the current position.
The mechanism itself has two means for Angle adjustment one larger ring which provides 9.5° of adjustment per spline and the smaller inner surface at the caps threaten to which offers 10° of adjustment per spline.
By rotating the inner and outer splines one "tooth" in opposite directions you get 0.5° of adjustment. This amount is so small it is in perceptible to the human eye and even your digital phone cannot detect .5° increments.
So if you need to make a 3° adjustment, for example. You need to rotate the inner spline with 10° of adjustment six notches or teeth in the direction you want the saddle to move. This will shift the angle 60 degrees. Next you'll need to move the outer spline with 9.5° of adjustment in the opposite rotational direction six notches as well. 6 × 9.5 equals 57°
The difference in rotation will provide the 3° movement that you needed in my example.
This can be illustrated much easier than I can be explained on a slow twitch post, feel free to call me if you'd like me to walk you through the process when you have the parts in hand.
When reattaching the outer saddle clamps be sure you tighten them alternating between left and right making sure you have equal thread engagement. If you tighten one side completely then try to tighten the other side to torque properly there will not be enough thread engagement.
EDIT: See how the 3T caps on this link state 9x7mm, whereas the other oval caps just say oval!
https://store.3tcycling.com/...rails&results=14