Questions guys...I have an IA2. I have seen pictures of the pads being mounted to the top of the base bar and the extensions coming out from under the base bar. Does anyone have any pics or diagrams of this? Thank you

Don't have my base bars picked out yet, so I'm not sure exactly what I'll go with. But I currently have the bayonet 3 rubber grips and get the same "slippery when wet" thing going on with those. Wanted to just put grip tape on the top of the pursuit bars. But with the older di2 levers and bar end shifters I purchased, the wire enters at the bottom of the bar. So I either leave that exposed, get a grip tape that wraps around completely covering the wires (but likely not aesthetically pleasing) or use something like what you have used.

Yeah I stripped that piece once. Had to order this to replace: https://store.3tcycling.com/...round-rails-170.html

If you cant find it you can also just buy 3T's cheapest seatpost that has a Difflock (which I had to do in a pinch from Amazon with 1 day shipping for an event) as the part shipped from Italy.

Thanks do you find it works better than handlebar tape?

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"see the world as it is not as you want it to be"

I think handlebar tape come loose a little too easy and this give me a very clean look that I like. Maybe I change my mind after my first technical braking in a wet decent. But That will probably be a while. And with carbon wheels the braking isn't that great anyway so slipping of the bars is probably the least of my problems

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Personal best:
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Thank you!

Were you able to order just that one piece or were you forced to buy the whole 3T difflock mechanism?

Forget about it. I "changed the system" by using 1 big screew that goes through the whole piece and a screw nut on the other side, so you can really tighten the saddle. Because with a spare one, it will happen again.

Hi all, having some trouble with my shifting...
FRD with new Ultegra di2, ultegra 11 speed cassette, kmc 11 chain.

When I shift into the hardest gear in the back, and pedal somewhat hard, it wants to skip to the easier gear.
The shifting is otherwise working perfect, chain looks centered between cogs. I have the H limit screw all the way out already.

Assuming it can't be derailleur alignment as the derailleur is new and these frames don't have a bendable hanger.

It almost seems like maybe the chain is wanting to hop off the top of the cog, maybe bad alignment from that gear to the crankset? Using a dura ace crank with absolute black chainrings, and a wheelsmfg outboard conversion BB.

Help!

get a longer screw from your local hardware store. also get some loctite thread glue, not the strong one the lighter one.saved me from buying a new seatpost, I couldnt find them on their own.

Had the same problem. I had to space out the right crank/chainring with a 1mm spacer on the crank spindle. Solved everything.

I'm embarrassed to say that I think the issue for me was that I had a wipperman link installed wrong....... doh..

You mean smooth radius side away from the chainrings?

Think so yeah. When I read the directions, I wasn't thinking about the outside curve of the link, I was looking at the curve where the pins connect, so the link ended up upside down......I think.
I fixed it by putting my kmc chain back on, so still need to reinstall the wipperman to see if I'm right...

I've been using Wippermann chains since early last year. Never had a problem but I think I've always had it installed correctly 😉

I'm reaching out for your collective wisdom because after 3 hours I can't figure this out. I have a 56 IA16 with the stock aerobars. I currently have my extensions mounted above the base bar with no spacers. I would like to lower it 4cm from my current position. I've read that people can do an under bar mounting with the stock extensions, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to only go 4cm. If I go to under bar, it drops it almost 7cm. I've looked at this link https://www.feltbicycles.com/Resources/Manuals/Felt_Bayonet_3_Alloy_AeroBar_Manual.pdf for some time now and no dice. I took a few pictures of one extension being the under mount and one over. Please help.

PS. ignore the bad cable routing, I'm fixing that next.

Excellent tip!

I had a friend retap the thread and it works fine now.

She also did exactly like you said and bought a long screw with the other bits i need in case of an emergency. Something I'll be sure to keep in my race bag.

Rotate the end of extensions up 3cm.

-Dave

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Here's a pic from the front of my IA with the extensions below the base bar:

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Ha! I just had the same problem with the same fix. I didn't realize the link could be on "backwards." Multiple mechanics missed it as well.

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Coach of TriForce Triathlon Team

I must not have been clear or I'm not following. I'm wanting to lower the arm pads 4cm. So I think I have to go to an underbar mount, which I thought would be rotating the base clamp upside down. Since the stack height of the clamp with no spacers is 3.5cm, rotating it upside down, lowers the armpads 7cm and you couldn't ride it with the arm pads that low because they are below the base bar in that setup.

You can mount the arms rests directly on the base bars or use longer counter sunk M5 x 0.8mm bolts and add spacers between the extension mounts and the arm rests.

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

You do not want to use those V2 clamps. Order the V3 from your LBS. v2 is prone to failure.

Are those brakes on the extensions?

IIRC those are the Metron shifters. Kinda cool; I was super skeptical of them at first.

We ran a training camp up in LP this past weekend. In the rain on Saturday, we had two out of the three IAs suffer rear brake lockup, with the third on its way out on the last five miles of the ride. The 10 series bikes were all able to get back on the road following an emergency trip to Placid Planet, but the IAx was shelved for the rest of the day. Less than ideal.

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Surely the brake setup was at fault, not the bike?
Or is your point about which bikes are easier to maintain, single or double digit?