The IA frame geometry has not changed since introduced. In a nut, Felt has three versions of the IA frame. They only differ in the carbon construction and rear seatpost draft box bosses. They all have the essentially the same geometry.

• Felt IA FRD 2014 - 2017: Best carbon, no rear cage bosses, integrated brakes, integrated front end
• Felt IA FRD 2018: Best carbon, rear cage bosses, integrated brakes, integrated front end
• Felt IAx 2014 - 2017: Medium carbon, no rear cage bosses, integrated brakes, integrated front end
• Felt IAx 2018: Medium carbon, rear cage bosses, integrated brakes, integrated front end
• Felt IAxx 2016-2018: Entry carbon, rear cage bosses, standard brakes and cockpit

So I made the jump up to an IA 16 this week. Thread is a bit long so aim sure its discussed, but Im too ADD to read through it all without just looking at pictures. Saw the write up on the di2 upgrade and thats in the plans. Cockpit upgrade as well. Had the bayonet 3 on my b12 and although its highly adjustable, I just want something else.

What are my limitations with the IA precut steerer? Tririg is on the top of the list, but want to check all options. Will the Aeria Ultimate fit? Any other stems work well to run cabling? Really want limit exposed cables as much as possible.

Also for di2 routing, i saw you out the rs910 junction in your extension. Is it possible to mount inside the calpac? And if so, is it easy to access for charging in the "new" calpac. I have a 2017 and will be upgrading that as well.

Congrats, that is so cool. I cannot remember the stems that fit. It is not many. The Dagger, Tririg, and I think the new Culprit. And I think there is one other mainstream stem hidden in this enormous thread somewhere.

I don’t think you could get the 910 to fit inside the Calpac, but I would experiment to prove it out. It would probably not go on the bottom or front due to clearance. But it might fit on the back side, closest to the seat. You could mock up something and attach it to the Calpac and then see if you can fit it in the frame. If you can get it in there, access for charging should

I have my junction mounted in the front of the new calpac. I use a piece of heavy duty Velcro to stick it to the front closest to the stem. Works fine. Occasionally comes loose and can rattle.

Doesn't the 16 have a head tube compartment specifically for the junction A?

Yes, but it is very inconvenient to have to take off the cover just to charge or even check the battery.

But you have to do it like once every three to four months. Not that hard to remove two screws.

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Personal best:
Ironman 9:22:02
Ironman 70.3 4:20:00

Was thinking velcro or two small holes to route a zip tie. Was even windering if theres enough room in the hollow space between the pac and steerer tube to mount it with the frame mount bracket so it is flush inside.

Maybe ill just stick it in the bar end....will see when I finally start doing all that.

Same boat with my frd. The junction box is inside the front brake cover. I'm not so concerned with battery charging as I don't do it very often, just the night before races. However I often switch between my kickr, and a rear wheel for riding outside etc., and the tubing is different for each, so need to make adjustments to the shifting tuning, need to press that small button on the junction box to get into adjustment mode (is there another way??).

A friend has her junction box inside her felt bento, so I may try the same.

Thanks for the tip.

I had to unscrew the 2 dropout screws a full 3 turn in order to go from 23mm to 25mm tires.

I've heard and read (mainly Cervelo specific) that those screws aren't meant to be used for handling larger tires sizes because they can't handle the torque. They are fairly small screws, after all. What prevents the screws from snapping or get wedged into the frame?

Well the thread pitch is M4 x 0.7; therefore 0.7mm x 3 turns = 2.1mm. I think that math checks out.
The quick release prevents the screws from getting wedged or snapping. They aren't even necessary. They just prevent having to hold the wheel and center it by hand. They do nothing "structural. I'm not sure how the screws function of setting the resting hub position would have anything to do with the "torque of larger tire sizes" or even what that means exactly.

Glad you were able to use the bike as designed with the road tire of your choice.

Best,
SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Sorry if this has been asked before, but for the IA frames with the integrated brake covers (FRD etc), any issue with Shimano Stages PM crank arm clearance?

No issue whatsoever. I also encourage riders to install the covers only on race day. They are not needed for function and only obfuscate the ease of visual inspection for maintenance

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Thanks Dave!!
Time to hit the Clever sale... :)

For those of you that have the draft box ....what can you realistically fit in there? Thanks.!!

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"see the world as it is not as you want it to be"

I'm having some real trouble with the bar on my bike. It may be the way I am riding it, but the entire cockpit is torqued to spec and yet still everything is slipping. I have, at various times, ended up with the base bar, extensions and pads all slanted downward. Sometimes I hit a bump and hear the creaking, and know the skip happened, other times its incremental. This is a stock IA10. I've seen posts that hint at this being a known problem. Is there some easy solution that I'm missing? Seems that over-torquing would be a risk and possibly not help.

Has anyone on here battled this problem... and won?

If everything is tilting down after a good bump, sounds like it is where the stem clamps to the base bar that is slipping. If it were me, I'd take the front plate off the stem (4 screws I think) and apply grit grease to that area of the base bar, then re-attach the face plate, torque to spec of course. See if that helps.

I have a spare tube, two tire levers, and $10. Could fit a bit more (maybe even a second spare tube, but that would be tight), but don't have a need to.

I have a tube, Crankbrothers M19, tire levers, and inflator in my box. I have a CO2 bracket on my BTS that has two cartridges. I am pretty sure that I could put one CO2 in my Felt draft box, but I don't need to.

Had same problem with extensions on brand new IA10. Was in with Jim at Ero Sports and we couldn’t get the clamp / bolts on the extension to stay put. He ended up replacing the clamp and heavier gage bolts. Jim did say it is a recurring problem — unsure what Felt is doing about it if anything.

2 CO2s, 2 levers, one small air chuck, 1 tube. Have to manuver everything around to get it to fit. Tight, but it fits.

Thats scary!!! And thanks for the info on the draft box to all!!

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"see the world as it is not as you want it to be"

Bayonet 3 no issue, but the simpler aluminum bayonet bar I noticed the aerobars would still move torqued to spec, and only stayed put greatly overtorqued.

Whenever it comes apart, I am sticking a bit of tape in there and possibly replacing the screws.

If the threads on the bolts, captive nuts and/or holes are dirty, corroded or damaged you may hit the prescribed torque without producing the clamping force that it's intended to produce because the torque is largely used to overcome thread resistance. If you clean and grease the threads before assembly this will improve things and if this was a significant problem it may increase clamping force sufficiently to solve the problem.

Are you using a grip paste? If not, adding some will reduce the force needed to keep the bars from slipping. My bars slipped slightly on my first ride of my IA14. I added some assembly paste on the stem/bar and bar/extension clamp interfaces and haven't had a problem since. So to answer your question: I battled (seems like an overstatement!) this problem and won.

Yeah, ive had the Bayonet bars on my B12 in the past with no slippage issues. But the bike spent a mot of time on the trainer, so Id keep the bolts greased to protect from sweat corrosion. Side effect is that it helps get your torque efficiently into a clamp force. Never had to use grip paste, but it'd be my next step if it came dowm to that.