Thanks for the feedback. Going to get another fit before I pull the trigger. And going to go sit on the bike too.

I don’t think there was anything abnormal about the fit process but since then the numbers just don’t make much sense.

Is there a need for longer stems (integrated ones)

I am looking if it is affordable to make some longer versions to extend the reach some cm.

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Follow my project on Project 100 miles / 4 hours

I'd like an affordable longer stem. I'm using the Bayonet 3 cockpit, except I've switched the original extensions for much longer ones and have fitted my pads a couple of cm in front of the basebar clamps. It works fine, but the pursuits/brakes are just a smidge short on reach and my options are limited if I wanted to change cockpit.

does someome has a spacer for a dagger stem? And willing to make a photo of it (top photo) i can find top photos of it.

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Follow my project on Project 100 miles / 4 hours

Hope you have the V3 Clamp for that setup otherwise you would most definitely get a fatigue fail in the near future.

I ran my old Specialized Transition with a 120mm stem. And that was one scary bike in the corners. Long stem gave me really slow turn in response but since the frame was so small (L equivalent to a Shiv M) and a seat height of 825mm the bike was falling aggressively into the corner. Every time I was braking hard (on dry chines carbon wheels) the rear will would come of the ground.

I would probably look into trading the frame for a larger size.

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Personal best:
Ironman 9:22:02
Ironman 70.3 4:20:00

No, I think the frame size is fine. My weight isn't terribly far forward.
Your Transition setup sounds rather extreme. Not really comparable. I have no handling complaints, just the cockpit is optimised for a shorter reach.

I had my b12 with the bayonet 3 bars set up the same way. Pads in front, 120 mm stem. No complaints about handling. And I had the v2 clamps at the time. Not a single issue.

Will Felt also have an IAx non-disc brake with Di2 for 2019?

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USAT Level II- Ironman U Certified Coach

Trent,

The fitter I've used in the past is no longer in the business. I'm currently riding a 2015 Felt B14 and am considering purchasing an IA 10/14/16. I would be interested in your frame size recommendation(s) based on the measurements I took from my current bike. I know my body type is long legs/short torso.

Pad X - 442
Pad Y - 665
Seat Height - 762

Assuming that Pad X is to the edge of the pad closest to the rider - you'd be on a 56 with 2 cm of armpad pedestals.

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

Thanks for the quick response.

Sorry, but that was to the center of the pad. Distance to the front of the pad is 400.

That's remarkably narrow, and the IAx is a narrow bike. Set up with the armpad mount flush with the base bar mount (and in the most rearward position) the reach of the IAx to the edge of the pad is 426. You could get it to 410 without issue.

I gotta think you've got some room to bring the saddle forward or to stretch out a bit.

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

Would that still keep me on a 56? I anticipated you might recommend a 54 after the reach shortened up.

Thanks again.

A 54 would work as well (it has a reach at the same point of 411) and would need 4 cm of armpad pedestals. This is where bike sizing gets really tricky, especially if you are completely reliant on fit coordinates without being able to examine the rider's actual position and morphology.

If I assume your fit is spot on and won't need to get any lower, the larger frame is faster than the smaller frame (at least in the case of the IA). But knowing you are extremely narrow, there is cause to think your fit may not be ideal and a 54 certainly provides more room for adjustment.

It is possible that you are on the extreme end of narrow/tall, and that your fit coordinates are spot on. But without photo or video evidence, it's reasonable to be skeptical.

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

Does anyone of you know, why it is so hard to get any IA in size 58? Still waiting for mine... Ordered it in April.
They have 54 and 51 but none 58.

This may sound crazy, but does anyone know if it would be easy/possible to replace the fork on a older IA3 with the fork from a newer disc brake model? I like the idea of the extra stopping power, and it seems like it would be the most cost effective solution rather than buying a new frame.

In case this would be possible, how would you integrate the rear brake? What I saw of the IA discs so far, the braking cable is routed through the left chainstay...

I'm assuming hes o ly going disc in the front???

Yup, only front disc. Keep the back rim brake... Maybe I'm asking to go flying over the handle bars with the differential in braking power. Just trying to get opinions on if it's possible and if it's something I should even consider.

Under hard braking there's no weight on the back wheel anyway so differing power between the two brakes can't cause this. On the other hand, the different feel/modulation of the two brakes may impact how well you balance brake inputs between front and rear. That may or may not have an impact.

I say go for it. I have tririg front and TRP rear. They modulate very differently and I have to squeeze the rear much harder for the same braking force when I use only one brake. You get used to the two feeling different and the front is where you need more power anyway.

I don't see the downside other than aero. Stronger brakes can't hurt

If your end game is better stopping power, what about getting HED Jet Black wheels plus a stronger (and maybe more aero) brake? A Jet Black front would probably be more aero than your current wheel, and the stopping power is freaking awesome. That would be a crapton easier than retrofitting a hydro fork, new wheel, & left side brake lever.

I have the IA14. I hate the rubber calpac with a passion. Is the hard calpac better? Does it stay put? Easy to open? Are there any other options?

The new calpac is excellent. It is screwed down, so it cannot come off or get misaligned. It has multiple slits on the top that you push/pull your stuff through. I highly recommend it.

 I'm tempted to just make a plastic plate that covers the hole where the calpac is. Drill two holes in the plate so I can mount any after market bento. And also utilize that plate to somehow mount a very easily accessible junction inside the frame for charging di2. I've seen the ones that retrofit the specialized water bladder system out there too, but I would like to have a place for gels and it's easy enough to put a BTA for fluids to not need the internal bladder. Seems like it'd be kind of simple to must trace the shape and put holes where the current mounting screws exist.