There argument was during fit sightly tilting the aero bars up and arm pads along with made 56cm fit and was slightly more comfortable and arguably more aero.

I haven't seen the fit so I can't really offer and opinion as to whether the fit was good, bad, or whatever. But if those are your fit coordinates, the 56 is too big. I'd put you on the 54 and all of the options to angle the extensions are still at your disposal, as is the higher position.

---

Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

+1

---

"see the world as it is not as you want it to be"

Nice.....om a side note recommendation to get started with bike fitting? Firstly I want to learn for my own knowledge...

---

"see the world as it is not as you want it to be"

The specs for the IA3 2019 is not on the site anymore. butt here is my saved specs.


FRAME:
Felt Integrated Aero Tri Disc Advanced + TeXtreme carbon fiber, MMC with InsideOut construction, BB30 bottom bracket shell, 12 x 142mm with Syntace style thru axle, flat mount disc brake standard, horizontal 12mm thru-axle dropouts, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, internal mechanical or electronic cable routing Shock:


FORK:
Felt Dagger Disc UHC Advanced carbon fiber monocoque construction, 1.125" carbon fiber steerer, upper cover, blades, dropouts, crown; internal disc-brake routing, flat-mount disc brake standard, 12 x 100mm thru axle


HEADSET:
FSA IS integrated, 1.125" sealed ACB cartridge bearings with Felt compression device


STEM:
Felt Dagger Integrated


HANDLEBAR:
Devox Dagger UHC Ultimate + Nano base bar with Devox Æ’-Bend 3-position extensions


BAR TAPE:
Felt VelvetGel tape and dimpled gel pads with Felt bar end plugs


SHIFTERS:
Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 R9160 TT/Tri 11-speed


FRONT DERAILLEUR:
Shimano Ultegra R8050 Di2 braze-on


REAR DERAILLEUR:
Shimano Ultegra R8050 Di2 11-speed short cage


CRANKSET:
Vision TriMax Compact TT Mega Exo, 52/36T, 48 -51cm: 165mm, 54 -56cm: 170mm, 58cm: 172.5mm


BOTTOM BRACKET:
FSA Mega Exo


CHAIN:
Shimano 11-speed


FREEWHEEL / CASSETTE:
Shimano 11-speed, 11-28T


BRAKE LEVERS:
Aero TT/Tri carbon


BRAKE (FRONT):
TRP Spyre Flat-mount, 160mm rotor


BRAKE (REAR):
TRP Spyre Flat-mount, 140mm rotor


SADDLE:
ISM PS1.0


SEATPOST:
Felt VariMount Aero Aero Tri UHC Advanced carbon fiber, 300mm length


SEATPOST CLAMP:
Felt Internaloc integrated with titanium bolts


RIMS / WHEELSET:
DT Swiss P1800 Spline DB, tubeless compatible 18mm inner width, 23mm depth; 1675g (wheelset)


FRONT HUB:
DT Swiss 370 Straight Pull, 12 x 100mm thru axle, Center Lock


REAR HUB:
DT Swiss 370 Straight Pull, 11-speed, 12 x 142mm thru axle, Center Lock


THRU AXLES:
Front: Devox leverless 12 x 100 x 117L, thread: M12 x 1.5 x 12.5L; Rear: Devox leverless 12 x 142 x 162.5L Syntace style, thread: M12 x 1.0 x 18L


SPOKES:
DT Swiss New Aero 2.0/1.2/3.0 (DS); Aerocomp 2.0/1.0/2.8 (NDS), bladed


TIRES:
Vittoria Rubino Pro G+ folding, 700 x 25c


ACCESSORIES:
Carbon assembly paste, aero seatpost slot covers, IA CALpac 2.0, Dagger stem cover with 1/4-turn Garmin Mount, IA BTSpac storage box

---

Follow my project on Project 100 miles / 4 hours

Hello everyone

have the problem that I cannot move my saddle forward enough to sit comfortably on it and being as much in front as possible.

Does anyone have an idea how to solve? Customized saddle rails? alternative seat post?

ANY input would be highly recommended. And yeap, have been with my fitter, Brett Sutton, who wants everyone more forward......
Pascal

I love being way up there as well. Is it safe to assume you are using an ISM saddle already? I can sit way up on the nose of mine comfortably for the IM distance.

---

Too old to go pro but doing it anyway
http://instagram.com/tgarvey4

had a ISM, switched to Cobb 55 and now trying Cobb Max. long distance pure on the nose is an issue :-(

I've stripped the threads on my IA dagger basebar where the topcap goes on (the one that covers the cabling). Anyone know of any workaround? I could order a new basebar ($$$) but they are out of stock according to the felt website.

---

the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Is the bolt out? If so just retap the next size up with SAE/English threads. There's a pretty big chunk of alumiunum bonded into the base bar in that area and the cover is just a cover. One bolt would hold it actually.

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Hey folks, 25km TT tomorrow, don't need any fluids.... Is the frame faster with an empty Xlab Aero TT bottle on the seat tube, or should I remove?

Thx! :)

Remind me in the aero data where this bike was tested with a bottle? Take it off

---

Make Inside Out Sports your next online tri shop! http://www.insideoutsports.com/

Lol, no idea! Off it goes! :)

I wasn't sure if, in general, frames were faster with an aero bottle filling some of the gap.

Some frames are faster with some bottles, there's no all encompassing rule.

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

I have the Felt IA 16. Bought it back in April and it's been great, however the last couple of weeks I have noticed the seat feels loose and I can move it slightly up and down and left and right. The bolts on both sides are tight. I can't believe the inner spindles are already falling after just a few months and few adjustments, but I can't think of anything else it would be. Has anyone else had this issue and if so did you reach out to Felt for a replacement?

Mine began doing the same. I purchased a new 3T rail bracket for my road bike because I stripped it. I swapped it to my IA and it is snug as a bug.

---

USAT Level II- Ironman U Certified Coach

Thanks. Just to be sure...that isn't that what is in there now that only last a couple months? I was hoping for a more permanent and reliable fix. Do you have a link to what part you bought?

I bought the same part. However, I did remove it several time swapping saddles. It's possible I stripped the threads.

https://us.3t.bike/en/spare-parts/seatposts/difflock-mechanism-with-round-rails-170.html

---

USAT Level II- Ironman U Certified Coach

Yes, thankfully the bolt was out. Thanks for the information; I talked to my LBS and told them what the situation was, I think they can help me out and tap a new hole.

---

the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Hey Dave,

I swapped my trusty 2016 IA10 for a 2018 IA16 because I loved the red paintjob. I moved the di2 over to the 16.

Anyway, the new frame has a crazy amount of bottom bracket creaking when loaded. My LBS already tried replacing the bearings. Since I ready run a MegaEXO crank with wheels manufacturing adapters, I've been thinking about just getting the FSA bb30 to BSA threaded sleeve. Any thoughts on that solution?

Thanks!

I can’t see a scenario where a new BB would be my next step.

If the crank didn’t creak in your old bike and the new bike isn’t defective then it should creak now. Reassemble using best practices to avoid bb creak w/ antiseieze, locktite and grease where prescribed.

If there’s an issue with the frame a new BB isn’t the solution.

Sure pedals and chainring bolts are lubed and tight?

Dave

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Are you sure its not the seat post? I had a lot of creaking there and took it out, cleaned it and it was great. Originally, I thought it was the BB. However, its creaking again. Seems like salt and other debris has found its way back in the seat post.

---

USAT Level II- Ironman U Certified Coach

Pedals are powertap p1 that I move between the road bike and the IA so that's not the culprit. I've cranked the chainring bolts as much as I can. I know the LBS did not locktite the bearings in when they replaced them so I guess I'll try that before the sleeve.

Overall the new IA doesnt feel as solid as the original. The chainstays are splayed about 2mm too wide and the bb creaking have me wishing I'd kept the original.

Thanks for the quick reply as usual!

I have an IA16 and wanted to replace the FSA Omega crankset and go shorter crank lengths. Assuming a BB30, I purchased a SRAM Force 22 crankset. I went through the install manual and looked like I had everything I needed to bolt it on (large spacer DS, preload adjuster NDS). There is way too much movement in the crank laterally. I asked SRAM if I'm missing additional spacers and the only thing they asked me is if I also have a SRAM BB30. Did I overlook this part and need to have also purchased a SRAM specific BB30? Seems inconvenient to purchase a crankset for a BB30 and it not fitting a BB30...confused - any insight on what I should do?

Assuming your using the correct spacer depending on regular axle length or wide axle and have the preload adjuster in use, purchase some spacers from wheels manufacturing. If your talking about 1-2mm of play, this is simply where the tolerance stack up is. Wheel's manufacturing sells some 1 and 0.5mm spacers. Your local bike shop should also have spacers. Just make sure you space out to chain line specified in the SRAM manuals and have enough clearance under power to not tear up the wear plate on the chain stay.