yes. it makes it like every other bike. how long have you been cycling? and i don't mean this to be snarky. just, unless there's something specific about this particular bike/fork/brake caliper, this is why we just, historically, treat our bikes with a specific bit of care. it's either the brake or it's the handlebar that hits the frame if we don't.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

I agree that it makes it like every other bike in that most other bikes the forks will turn all the way I have an S5 and yes the forks turn all the way as there is no mechanism like this pin on the P3 to prevent that. No offence taken by the way, I know you are not being snarky.
I guess if Cervelo wanted the forks to turn all the way this pin would not have been designed into the bike would you agree?
My wife rides a Giant Liv Avow and her forks do not turn the full 90 deg as the frame stops that from happening.

i'll give you my opinion. and we'll see as things move forward in our industry whether my current opinion is sound or unsound. i don't think there was a design flaw, per se. rather, i think the pin in the fork crown is in the category of: "it seemed like a good idea at the time."

there's a protocol for fork testing. it's memorialized in ISO or ASTM standards (i don't know which). it's to make sure your fork doesn't break when you're riding. i don't know, but i'm just going to guess (happy to find out if i'm wrong) that these testing standards don't include banging the pin against the frame X number of cycles. so, it's just another thing that might fail, except, there's no testing for this (if i'm right).

if there is no pin, then you take care not to let your brake or your handlebar damage your frame. i rather like that solution. seems elegant and helpful. to me.

so, i guess i half agree with you. it's not that the pin was placed badly. it's that it was placed in there at all.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

as I mentioned above, it is not about hitting frame, it was about shearing hydraulic brake line in the p5 when it came out with the aduro in 2012. you know that though, but are pretending not to.

also, the pin is in the frame, not on the fork

hey, would you stop that? i'm not pretending not to know stuff. maybe there's something i'm missing. but don't pull that internet bullshit. talk to me like a human, or take it to reddit.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

I went so far as to assume you had an article on it with all the hype back in 2012. seems like a huge build up back then and would have thought it would have been in the article, but I am too lazy to search and reread it.

didn't you have a p5 for a while, at least to test ride?

I figured since you didn't seem to notice my response to you and were still asking the same question, you were either trolling for something else to spill later, or you had used the ignore button on me

I just experienced the same problem. TriBike transport probably effed it up while taking the bike to Boulder. Pic here - https://photos.app.goo.gl/evH4MBL1ToGjoTxC6

I wonder if it's worth pursuing with Cervelo as a warranty issue?

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

They wouldn't cover warranty with the first frame I had but they have with the second one. They told the bike store I deal with that's this would be a one off and if it happens again they would not support it. I actually called Cervelo and spoke to someone in their engineering dept about this and he told me the pin is an excellent design and it was only meant to stop you from over steering and is only meant to take minimum force????
Try for the warranty.

Yeah, starting to see if they'd cover it... slow going so far.

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

This happened to my gfs p3.
Our local shop was able to get a replacement on from cervelo and epoxied it in
Everything has been just fine, since

Hi all. Been away from this forum for some time but I need your help.
Just got a 2nd hand P3 and rhe previous owner ran electronic shifting. There is a grommet for electrical wire in the chainstay. I need to run mechanical and have no way to secure the cable/outer in the chainstay. Does anyone know the part I need? Is it the same as the cable exit port for the rear brake? Or the same as one for another model, eg S5?

Thanks

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"Here's how you run a marathon. Step 1: You start running. Step 2: There is no step 2." - Barney (How I Met Your Mother)

I recently made the same conversion from electronic to mechanical. My local bike shop had a bunch of mechanical grommets lying around, as most people convert to electronic. The hardest one to find is the seat tube grommet for FD. I ended up making one from an old bit of tubing. Looking at some other mechanical bikes, though, it looks like you might be able to leave the rubber piece in place, as it might be a straight enough run to avoid rubbing too much.

This site also seems to stock the various bits: https://www.excelsports.com/...ajor=11&minor=11

Resurrecting an old thread.

Looking for a bit of help building a NOS P3 frameset. I contacted cervelo, and info for "old" models are no longer available, p2/p3 are only sold as complete bikes now and was told to just contact dealer to have it built instead of getting cabling instructions...Anyone have a copy of the P2/P3 frameset build guide PDF?

Alternatively, can anyone just confirm I have the end caps in the right spots and routing correct for this particular frameset:

RD: full housing out extension, in-line barrel adjuster, full housing down through the right-most three-holed spot behind the stem. Full housing down to bottom bracket. End cap at the end of this housing. Bare cable though BB guide, naked cable though chainstay, out the special plastic frame guide, end cap on housing for the start of the loop and endcap at the end of the loop.

Front: Full housing down left most hole of the three-holed stem entry, full housing down to bb, housing end cap here, bare cable through the guide, bare cable up to FD.

Thanks!

Resurrecting with the same question! Any luck with finding the assembly manual for a P3 (2018 nos frame)? Thanks!

the box on top tube, if using the correct holes, has cable stops for der. housing, ie bare cable through frame. iirc. mine is di2 now so i dont recall for sure, but pretty sure you need to use housing ends for the stops to wrk

yes, you need to use stops.

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No coasting in running and no crying in baseball

Oops, realised I wasn’t actually asking the exact same question (as will likely be a di2 build), but am also trying to find the dealer manual just in case there are other build quirks to be aware of. I have the manual for the fork insert install, is everything else pretty much standard?

One question with the fork insert - is there any way of getting it out (& either re-using or insert a new one) in case wish to cut the steerer tube shorter in future?

Thanks for all the help.

It's been awhile since I built up my P3. I think the metal insert is glued in place and that you have to cut through it if you want to shorten the steerer tube.

I initially tried a specialized expander. It did not end well. It created enough of a slight bulge in the tube that I could not get spacers off. Had to take the whole bike into a Cervelo dealer to fix it. Took the best mechanic they had hours to get it undone.

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No coasting in running and no crying in baseball

Interesting. I was a bit surprised by the insert/starnut design, seems a less elegant solution than a stronger steerer with an expander bung. Guess I should check with cervelo whether cutting steerer + insert would be ok down the line or if you only get one shot at steerer length.

Good luck on your build. I was not able to find a manual, however I found that a close-enough year S3 rim manual that confirmed my question about the housing run. I can't find it now but I can say there really weren't any surprises, indeed pretty conventional.

I'll answer my own question from last year for anyone doing this in the future for building a cable P2/3 around 2017ish - when running cable gears It works great with running the gear housing all the way to the BB. The BB bend plate clearly accepts a standard plastic end ferrule that seats well into the BB plastic bend plate. I recommend doing this before putting in the Bottom Bracket. It was a total bear to try to get the BB plastic bend cap to pop out of the frame to do it that way. I gave up on getting the end plate out of the frame up leaving it in and then used the large BB frame holes to properly guide the housing where it needed to go. For the FR its just bare cable out the the hole and though the rubber grommet. For the RD its similar, no housing after the bend, bare cable for 2/3s length of the inside chainstay, then out though the little plastic frame fitting which acts as a housing stop, then a small piece of housing for the gear loop (with end cap ferrules).

I decided to run a single housing all the way from the shifter to the BB housing to try reduce slack - shift quality is totally fine, almost excellent.

Di2 - I think the only thing is I i think there isn't a easy way to have an internal battery mount? I think I heard somewhere most stuff the battery it up the seat tube with some bubble wrap. I think the bike is designed to have the older style external di2 battery hanging in front of the BB.

For the fork insert - the standard way seems pretty permanent as the sleeve is is glued in after you cut. It might be hard to get it out and repositioned if you need to cut the stem further, cant imagine that working well. If you anticipate needing to adjust the height you might want to get an aftermarket non glue "expansion plug," a model that is okay with carbon. I can't confirm this is totally cervelo kosher but it is what I would do if there was a chance I was going to cut the fork again. I just cut it super short and use a low stem + modern cockpit with wide-range pad spacers for fit.

This talks about your stem options: https://www.parktool.com/...on-plug-installation

Herbert, I'm hoping you can answer a question. Is there enough clearance on the 2019 P3 for a Zipp Super 9 or any Disc wheel on the rear? I know on the older P3s there was not enough for the Zipp disc.
Thank you

I really would not know. But surely someone else does

There certainly was enough space for a Super 9 on older P3’s. I have a 2017 P3 and currently run both Zipp 808 and Super 9 on there with zero issues. Limited to a Continental 5000 in 25mm though.

Thanks for the feed back. FYI, I had a 2011 P3 and Zipp disc would not clear.
However, the question is about the 2019 P3.
Thanks again.

Figured this was as good a thread as any to post in

I have a 2010 Cervelo P3 frame I am building up

Where can you buy the aluminum sleeve for the fork?