Just normal xlab Gorilla cage and zip ties.

Hi again,

I checked the size of my road bike which works really nice for me and I can ride in the drops for a long time without any problems. My road bike is a Cannondale Supersix in size 60 and Cannondale recommends in general to use the same size for their tri bike that you use for your road bike. If I compare the stack and geometry of the Cannondale Slice in size 60 with Cervelo P3 size 58 they seem to have more or less the same size.

Does Cervelo also recommend that in general that if you fit a 58 size road bike then also a 58 size triathlon bike should work fine for you? I think an S5 in size 58 road bike would be ok for me when I compare the stack and reach of the S5 with the Supersix.

Is it possible to say something in general about the difference of stack of a road bike compared with a tri bike? I guess that the stack in most cases should be lower for the tri bike than for the road bike, and since my road bike has a stack around 60cm I think perhaps the size 61 of the Cervelo P3 with a stack of 58.8 is a bit too tall. Especially since it is possible to add a 6cm riser kit to the aero bar if necessary, I assume it is easier to make an aerobar taller than lower.

The only thing is that when I see photos of peoples using the Cervelo P2/P3/P5 that the visible part of the seatpost is not that much that it would be in my case. I need to have around 26cm of the seatpost visible. I understand that that is technical possible, but when I look of photos of professionals in most cases the visible part of their seatpost is not that much.

http://mx.cervelo.com/...6c217a-0-960x480.jpg


However I could see that tall riders like Andy Potts and Jan Frodeno has a tall seatpost, but they are for sure more flexible than me.

http://www.slowtwitch.com/...men_-_bike_4728.html

I ride a Lapierre 58cm road bike but a 56cm Cervelo P3. 6ft tall. This works well for me.

Saw your P3 brake cable re-route. What's the advantage of re-routing? Is there an issue with the default layout? Thx

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"Some guys they just give up living, and start dying little by little piece by piece. Some guys come home from work and wash up, then go racin' in the street." Bruce Springsteen

In general we recommend using same size road bike and Tri bike. P series geometry has lower stack and steeper seatpost angle to rotate the rider forward around the BB while keeping the hip angle the same. The 61 has a frame stack of 588 but you must factor in the stem and bar stack as well which will be around 60mm so a "slammed" 61 will be around 650 pad stack which may be too tall.

Athletes who typically fit a 61cm are 6'3" or taller. You would likely fit a 58 IMO.

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Jakub

Thanks. Yes, I like them a lot. I rode it all this last summer including a 100m TT, a 70.3 and a 140.6. Since then I have added the Tririg tilt kit and swapped out the Zipp vukas for the tririg gammas. Haven't ridden it outdoors yet but on the turbo it feels a bit more relaxed. I also moved the Di2 junction box from within the alpha to the bento box which gives easier access for charging.

Edit: forgot to say, after posting the pics, I swapped out the gammas for some zipp ski bends to relax the wrists but with the tilt kit I have gone back to the gammas.

Anyone having issues with 25 conti 4000 on Flo wheels rubbing on the front fork?

Does anyone on here by chance have their original Np3 front fork from a 56

I know this thread is mostly about the new P3 but figured I'd use it instead of starting a new one.
I'm planning on upgrading my 2012 P3 into a 1x11 setup but I have seen zero examples of an 11 speed setup on the p3c. Can anyone confirm that this is fine before I go? I don't see why not but want to be sure.
Thanks.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

Yes, go forth and conquer (with a narrow-wide front chainring).

 
Campy Record Track crank on P3C (circa 2007)

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My latest book: "Out of the Melting Pot, Into the Fire" is on sale on Amazon and at other online and local booksellers

Can someone tell me:

1. does the frame have a detachable derailleur hanger and if it does - does it come with the frame or need to be order separately?
2. what size cable and brake housing does it take - I am assuming that standard 4mm/5mm housing will work?
3. does the rear brake matter at all from the aerodynamics perspective on a NP3?

Thanks in advance.

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Next races on the schedule: none at the moment

I've just ordered a 61cm frame and DI2 groupset. I had a bike fit done and the 61cm and Spesh Shiv were the only bikes that fit me. Annoyingly no one seemed to be stocking the 61cm so its on back order from the manufacturer and wont be here till end of June :-(

Can't wait to get it built and race it! Been slogging around on a crappy Planet X Stealth that is too small for me for ages.

I'm 6'2 and got fitted with a 58. I love it. It is really smooth, the DI2 is icing on the cake. I would not bash any other brand, but I'm extremely happy with my ride. One question, anyone know where to find my serial number? I want to register it, I'm guessing it's on paperwork (who looks at paperwork?) and bike, but if I have that much time I'm trying to ride somewhere. My only change so far are 25 Contis, 23s were a little rough for my size.

Turn your bike upside down, the serial number sits just under your bottom bracket.

2016 P3. Looking for a rear bottle holder for an upcoming 100 mile TT.
Any recommendations. Don't think I need a double bottle holder.
ISM Proluge Adamo saddle.
Thanks

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My foray into time trialling at the age of 60
https://sixtyplustimetrialling.wordpress.com/

X Lab bracket and a Bontrager RL Tri cage. You'll never eject a bottle.

Thanks for the quick reply Greg

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My foray into time trialling at the age of 60
https://sixtyplustimetrialling.wordpress.com/

Been quite some time but still, what a great looking bike!!!

I'm about to route it that way and I wonder if you could take a close up snap of the bend from above (without the cable covers)...
I'm giving it a try but my housing is way too thick...it is a really really tight bend both under and over, to the point I can't put the cover back on if I route the cable that way (FYI I'm using Yokozuna JetLube housing).

Did you drilled the back of the plastic cable bucket (like the p5 if I'm not wrong) or no need to? Would that help to make it work with the cable cover on??

Thank you!!!

no reply on using the cover as i don't, but i did drill back of the bucket for much easier routing. it is just plastic. then no large loop(esp. on my very tight 48cm frameset)

Yep, still tight on a 51!

Any advice on the drilling process? Any picture of the end result?

Thanks!

just drilled a small pilot hole and then used a bit large enough for housing. no pic in bucket. previously used aduro so you would see nothing. currently using a ventus and not sure what my final rear brake routing will be(under dremeled ventus tail or through top of ventus tail with shift cables.

Thought so! Just wondering about distance from the original bottom holes.

Yeah, you must NOT use that cover if using an Aduro (according to Damon!).

I think I could save the covers and get either a Profile Attk IC or the new Torhans Bento X, both of which integrates cable covers...so kinda getting the Aduro integrated/clean look but integration-less and allowing me to use my lovely Zipp Vuka bar ;-)
Might end up gorgeous :crossedfingers:

You could kammatail the Ventus and go the same way with one of those bentos!

not using covers with ventus either, as route shifting through tail and would have same result as with aduro. cant really use the covers if putting brake through there either, unless using di2(and 2 wires through one hole) or etap. no need for me to cam the tail. a bento was within margin of error at zero and not so good at yaw when tested with aduro which it mated up well. with ventus, any bento is going to stick up in air above and just be a large unshielded object without an aero front shape. ventus tail is tiny, relatively. plus, i tt, aint got no time for bento, or in texan, i caint do it