Hi,

I've just purchased and taken delivery of a new P3 frameset and wondered if anyone else who built one up from scratch had any assembly instructions included? I've got instructions for the Fork but there is nothing else included - most things I know are self explanatory but there nothing about the seatpost clamp installation, torque settings for various bolts, whether or not you run bare cables internally through the frame (for FD and RD) etc. Just wondered if you are left to your own imagination...

The manual has some information. Torque settings are on pages 24-25.

Thanks! That was very helpful!

Chirag

Just completed my post HIM bike overhaul....

Made the following modifications:
- Replaced my XLabs rear saddle hydration setup with a XLabs Delta 400.
- Modified the front end to replace the 3T Aura Pro aero bar and extensions with the 3T Aduro front end w/ TriRig Gamma aero extensions
- Rerouted the rear brake line so that it enters from the top tube and not the side of the top of tube.
- Integrated a modified Torhans Aero 30 (BTA hydration) and Torhans VR (flat kit) purchased from Zach Boring (major props to him for the awesome customization work and answering all my stupid questions)
- Remounted the computer on a Zipp BTA hydration + computer mount (didnt need the "hydration" portion).
- Replaced ISM/Adamo Prologue saddle with ISM PN1.1 saddle

Was all this stuff necessary... probably not... but they were all definitely fun projects and a learning experience. Here are some picture links...

Before (Side Profile)
After (Side Profile)
After (Front Profile)
After (Rider Profile)

Things that I am still considering:
- Replace the XLabs Pocket 200 with the Torhans Aero Bento Box when they come out with the larger capacity version.
- Adding a Catalyst rear disk wheel over

Chirag

Your bike looks good, but your beard looks to be the incorrect size for your frame. The beards are size specific.

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

The beard is for a 56 frame and my bike is a 56 frame. I had received a 54 beard when I got the 3T Aduro and it was way to small with a noticeable gap between the bottom of beard and top of the magura brake covers. I will see if I can mess with the fit when I get home today but I think all the parts are correct.

On another note, anyone having issues with their front Magura brake being squishy? I have tried to bleed it a couple different times and cannot get the same consistency as I have in my rear brake. Used the same process for front and rear brake. When I press the front brake lever, the brakes close, but they take some time before they return to their regular open position. This causes a dead band in the brake lever where it wont cause the brakes to close again until they return to position. Made sure that the lever screw has been turned enough to allow the proper gap between pad and wheel. Checked the tubing and I dont see any noticeable kinks or holes or leaks. Not sure what else to try...

Thanks!

Chirag

I think the reason your beard may look wrong size(and this could be completely wrong) is that you may have used a top cap on the headset. with the aduro, you don't. it is bearings and lock washer then stem

Is the part that says "Orbit IS-2" in the attached picture link the top cap that you are referring to?

P3 Top Cap

Thanks!

Chirag

yes, you don't need that part with the aduro.

also, be sure you remove the cable keeper behind it, if you have not. should be an open box hole, otherwise you will eventually sheer your brake housing in two. and kink your shifting cables

Removed the top cap and the beard is alot more flush with the magura brake cover.

I had the cable keeper gotcha a few weeks ago but glad that i caught it pretty quick. I originally removed the cable keeper, then thought I "forgot" to put it back so installed it again and then noticed that it was causing kinking in brake cable so I removed it again and everything is ok.

This has been a good learning experience.

Also, my front brake started to work properly again. Not sure what I did besides remove the brake from the steering post when I had to remove the aduro to remove the top cap.

Adding building my own top tube bento box and installing an internal DI2 battery in the seat post to my future to do list.

Looking forgot to taking the new configuration out for its maiden voyage tomm. Hopefully nothing falls off. Ha.

Appreciate all the help from everyone!

Thanks!

Chirag

Why not swap-out the front fork all together for the P5 fork??? Helps with all around esthetics and aero flow on the front end.

Hi All,

I think im going to purchase the p3 (di2) in 56 cm. I was leaning towards the 2016 Giant Trinity as its a awesome bang for buck and looks, but the cervelo fit and comfort has sealed the deal for me.

The only concern ive got is that my powermeter on my roadbike which im planning to move to the TT bike is a Ultegra Stages powermeter. The P3 comes with Rotor Cranks.

i guess i have a few options:

1) Replace rotor with Ultegra Crank and move powermeter over (LBS said he can do for small charge as he can sell the rotor)
2) keep rotor crank and buy a power2max (LBS said if i buy, he will install for free)
3) keep rotor crank and buy Garmin Vector Pedals

im leaning towards option 2, but have heard mixed feelings around rotor cranks.

Cheers
Ben

Dude you don't have to replace your crank or buy another power meter. I bought the P3 and put my quarq sram gxp on it. All you habe to do is get right adapters.

I got my p3 with a duraace crank, then fitted a stages

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http://www.thetrinerd.com

ended up going with Cervelo P3...absolutely loving it! need to change my saddle out, its a pain in the arse literally :)

Here is a pic at a Time trial recently..




as you can see i swapped out the rotor crank for ultegra, now i can swap my stages power meter between road bike and this.

I have a question, how do i widen the 3T tri bars? i bought the profile design HC hydration unit and it doesn't fit as the tri bars are too narrow. I tried to make the profile design bracket thinnner, but its at the max it will go.




thanks!

Buy wide aero clamps

Scrap the mounting bracket and zip tie to your extensions. Also, get a professional bike fit. Or start with: raise saddle and move bars forward. Shaving legs will save you about 80 Watts (give or take 78 Watts).

It is really worth well doing that.

The easiest way to do this is via using the P5-3 to P5-6 upgrade kit if you can get your hands on one.

But if you manage to get your hands on just the fork, it is also possible to rig something up.

Here is how I DIY mine. http://imgur.com/a/r8O5A

What is that sticking off the side of your left extension???

Hey, its the profile design UCM extension with my exposure light.

My setup has changed alot since those last pictures.
i have had a new bike fit and changed my saddle which has improved my comfort factor from 2 out of 10 to 9 out of 10.

i also fixed the profile design mount and light mount to sit between the bars.

unfortunately no shaved legs yet!

This is my version of the NP3
51 frame, 404FC/ContiGP4000SII,Zipp Vuka Stealth, Xlab torpedo, Magura RT8, Xlab TurboWing, Fizik Arione VsX, Topeak large Bento, Sram Red 22 Compact 165mm, 11-32 11sp, Ultegra med cage RD, Garmin Vector, DA chain. Garmin computer/sensor. Dog collar bell - we have a new law that all bikes must have a bell.....

Yo cant see it, but getting the brake hose in through the top of the frame is reasonable straight forward. String taped really well on to the brake hose, drop it in the top tube and pull it through with hooked wire via the side hole. push the hose in through the top and pull on the string. The rest is easy.

Did you ever try drilling a hole in the back wall of the cup for the rear brake housing?

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No coasting in running and no crying in baseball

I sure did. made reinstall so much easier on my small 48cm frame size.

Thanks. I'm cabling my (new) 45cm today. How did you go about it? It's pretty tight work space. Take the fork off and drill from the top at an angle? Low speed and torque on the drill? Regular bit OK?

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No coasting in running and no crying in baseball

PM'd you, but pretty much yes. very small pilot hole to start(less slipping) and enlarge until housing has wiggle room to be able to move with bars a little bit