Power1369,

Believe it or not, all of our Di2 P3s are out right now for photos/testing etc. But, the rubber piece that covers the bottom bracket cable guide opening (at the very bottom of the frame) has a slot in it. The wire can pass through that slot and connect to the down tube battery which is mounted to those two bolts at the bottom of the down tube.

Make sense?

If no one else comes up with a photo, I'll try to remember to snap one when we get a Di2 bike back.

Thanks,

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David Byer
Cervélo

Jason, our Mid-West/Rockies sales rep/mechanic extrodinaire saw this post and sent me a photo:



Thanks Jason!

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David Byer
Cervélo

Thank you very much for posting. Exactly what I was looking for !

Thanks again. The build continues !

Power1369

I've got a new cervelo p3 ultegra 2014 with an fsa gossamer crank. What would my options be regarding stages power meters?
Thanks

My lbs said stages would not work with that crank, due to bottom bracket size. They said I would need an entirely differently crank set to be compatible with stages, and by that point considering $, a different brand of power meter would make more sense. Can someone else confirm this?

I'm curious, where is the drain hole I've heard about? That pic shows di2, but I have a mechanical setup. That hole next to the "cable guide" is actually a screw hole for the cable guide on mechanical. How does water drain out of the frame if it gets in?

I recently bought a P3 frameset from a dealer who nicely stripped a mechanical version to sell to me as he didn't have a bare frameset available in my size for 2 or so months.

However, no one thought about removing the bearings and bottom bracket shell so I can run my di2 cables through the BB shell.

What tools would I require to remove the bearings and shell? Is it a difficult job? I have reasonable wrenching skills but am no expert.

Thoughts anyone?

Just recently finished re-cabling my P3 as I changed over the standard ski bend 3T extensions for some TriRig gammas and while it was all apart thought i'd try to re route the rear brake cable through the cable junction in the top tube rather than around the side, since im not going to be running Di2 on this frame, the third hole in the junction would have remained unused otherwise. had to enlarge the hole a little bit to make it all fit nicely but haven't come across any issues running it this way yet, I was afraid the cable might have been on too much of a bend and cause braking issues but has been fine so far. if anything I can hear the cable rattling around a little bit more now, but my old Scott did that aswell, only worse so im used to rattling!
Just curious if there is any reason why Cervelo didn't try to do something like this from the beginning rather then run it down the side the way they have? aside from it looking cleaner would there be any aero benefits doing it the way I have or would they be marginal?
Cheers.

Looks much cleaner that way! I want to do it to mine now. Did you have to bleed the Magura's again after you changed it?

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http://www.twhatley.com

Yeah I had to take it to my LBS to do that which they did on the spot luckily.
I had to get a brand new cable as the one that was originally used on the bike was too short, from memory was about $10 I think plus $30 or so to bleed the brake.
The cables have a fair bit of compliance so you can bend them where you want it to go without kinking.
Cheers.

Hi Simmo,

Beautiful set up, very clean, and thanks for describing your experience.

We chose the side entry for smooth mechanical braking. Top tube entry requires that small radius turn as the cable head towards the brake at the back of the bike, which adds a touch of friction in the braking action. Folks who care about aerodynamics and are careful setting up mechanical braking get good performance and that's fine; but with our renewed engineering emphasis on simplicity (hence the P-series' "simply faster" theme) we wanted it to be a no-brainer for anyone who works on it. Side entry does that well.

On the other hand, with hydraulics, virtually any route works the same, so tight bends are no problem.

Enjoy your P3,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

FYI, I wanted a Stages PM on the P3 I ordered. But, I also wanted a compact Crank. You can order a full Ultegra Crank with Stages Power from Stages. That's about the cheapest way but delivery is a bit long. Option "B", which I picked was to have my LBS order an Ultegra Compact Crank and a Stages crank arm. The LBS will ship the new, unused left crank arm to Stages for a trade in.

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BC Don
Pain is temporary, not giving it your all lasts all Winter.

Hi Damon thanks for the reply , makes sense the way you've done it for simplicity reasons I appreciate the design that has gone into this bike, it came down to this and a speed concept when deciding but the p3 just did it for me more. Hoping to get a deep front/disc rear setup for it soon aswell!

Hello Damon, so, because I'm a triathlete, I want to spend an unreasonable amount of money upgrading my P3 Classic. I'm thinking going Ultegra Di2 6770. Is there any reason this couldn't be done with my P3 (which I love currently!)?
Thanks in advance

Damon,

When do the 2015s release?
Is there a Di2 option with shifters on the pursuit bar?
Color change/options?

Thanks

Sorry my friend. "I can neither confirm nor deny what Cervelo may, or may not, be working on for future products or concepts."

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

And if you did, you'd have to kill us.

If I knew about the R2, would you kill me? ;)

I just ordered my P3 last week from Get A Grip in Chicago. Can't wait to try it out! Ultegra Di with a power crank :-)

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________________________________________________________________________
It's not how many years you have left in life, it's how much life you have left in your years!

have been on my new P3 for the past month and absolutely love it
Swapped out the Magura brakes for Ultegra TT brake lever / shifters and Ultegra Calipers
the Rotor cranks were also swapped out for Ultegra compacts with Stages PM
Still to come is a single behind the seat bottle holder for my spares "bottle' but I can't find one yet that fits with the Adamo Attack saddle as theres not enough of the "hole" left for an X-Lab Sonic.
Also I want to put a 30mm lifter under the arm pads to lower the base bars by 30mm

If I knew how to post a pic I would.... but I don't...

you'll have to look me up in Kona ( backhand brag... lol )

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How much hole do you have left? We do have the Delta Sonic XL which has a longer rod for rear saddle positions.

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Candice Turner
CEO
XLAB - Aerodynamic Triathlon Accessories
Dawn to Dusk - Off-road Specific Storage Accessories
http://www.XLAB-USA.com http://www.dawntodusk.bike

How about we get some more pictures on this thread? Would like to see the P3 with slick aero wheels.

But new owner here...it's my first bike meant for the road. Was exciting to use it on my second sprint tri...which was a couple weeks ago.

I have lowered the stem since then, as I am feeling more confident on it.
One of the big dilemma's was which size to go with...48 or 51. At the time of purchase the 48 felt a bit cramped...and the 51 was more comfortable. I'm not super young @ 38...so i went with the 51...

Sa-weeet! How did your 2nd race go?

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David Byer
Cervélo

David,

Hello; my second tri went decent. #13 out of 23 for my age/gender.
I do run some, but am new to competitive swimming, and brand spanking new to road biking...so I am super enthusiastic regarding improving my bike and swim time.

I recently purchased a NP3, kept all the stock components, and the rear wheel has been rubbing against the brake pads with every revolution. LBS replaced the rear wheel with no improvement. Ended up switching out the FSA brake caliper which was too narrow for the wheel rim. Just wondering if this is a common issue? Thanks.

here is my P3 on Flo's