did I not note above that I used a noodle as the stop inside the aduro? I did somewhere on this forum

I got my new P3 recently and just tried to mount my Flo 90 rear wheel. When mounted and tire up to pressure, the tire rubs the frame. The tire doesn't rub the brake or chain stay, but rubs the frame wheel well. I have no ideas on what the issue is or if it can be fixed. The stock wheels don't rub at all.

Anyone else experience this ?

it has horizontal dropouts pull the wheel back slightly and tighten skewer properly. may need to adjust brake pads if not hitting rim correctly. can adjust screws in dropouts to help place wheel in future but only rely on skewer to keep wheel in place, not the set screws

I had the exact same issue - you can see a picture of my bike in the 'show your ride' thread, I just posted it. In order to get the wider rim sitting comfortably I removed the spacers in the brakes, that then meant they were too wide though so you'll want to tighten up the brakes using the adjuster in the levers. Worked for me!

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Rob
https://timetrialweapons.com/

Custom bike storage.

I ended up switching out the Aura for Mistral so I could mount the pads directly on the bars. This was the most appealing way for me to test out the low stack setup.

I kept the ski bend extensions from the Aura as I don't think I like s-bends. I also mounted the extension on top rather than below the pursuit bars as commonly depicted for Mistral's lowest setup, but it seems to work perfectly for me.

I didn't like that user reviews of the Tririg Alpha seemed to complain about poor quality, especially for its price. Felt Devox are a little hard to find, and The aesthetics don't quite go with a P3. I think I'll eventually switch to Magura so I can do the brake cable routing cleanup without mushy rear braking, hopefully using a cockpit that has the same or lower stack as the Mistral but with horizontal bars without the upturn. Maybe within a year's time Magura's levers will be updated with something a little less ugly, and 3T will make a high end aerobar that matches or exceeds Mistral's low stack /daydream.

A couple of questions if you don't mind.

1. What brand and what size tires are you running?

2. Have you adjusted your horizontal drop out screws to make sure everything is centered and properly distanced from the wheel well?

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Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

Thanks for jumping in on this. I simply forgot about the set screws, thanks jeffp for reminder. I worked a little this morning to get the set screws adjusted, thought I had it and went out to ride but as soon as I got on bike the rear wheel simply wouldn't turn it was rubbing so bad.

I am running gp4000s 700x23. I think I just need to spend more time with the set screws. I don't think they are centering the wheel properly and I don't have enough clearance yet. I will post back after spending more time on it. Love the bike and love the wheels, can't wait to ride with them on this bike.

you don't need to use the set screws. they should not be supporting the wheel in any way, more just a reminder. use your eyes to see there is a 3-5mm gap between tire and frame when QR is undone. then center wheel and tighten QR

Just want to add my p3 the up for anyone interested. P5-6 fork fits on the fram no problem as expected.

This is my final product. Will be adding a catalyst wheel cover and designing a bb mounted storage box. Should have both by the end of the month.

after a couple of months, shes almost done...

Here's my P3 setup! Thanks to this thread I was able to convince my LBS (Tribe Multisport Mesa) to re-route the rear brake cable. I also added salt sticks in the aero extensions with the cables by notching the ends of the extensions with a dremel. Zipp Firecrest CC 808 rear, 404 front, Xlab torpedo BTA, Dark Speed Works 483D bento box. Greg at DSW was awesome to talk to on the phone to help guide me through adding new holes to the bento box to move it up closer to the stem. Ready to race this weekend at Rage Half at Lake Mead, then on to IMTX!

Wow, that is a killer sled.

And you did a great job with moving the Speedpack bolts. About rerouting that rear brake cable, do you know what method your bike shop used? Did they cut a new hole in the small carbon 'cup' inside the top tube to reduce the sharp angle on the cable? Or did they use another method? One small comment, maybe you can cover up that front top tube brake cable hole with some white tape. I have used 3M 1080 vehicle wrap (they have matte white) to play around with the logos on my P3. The wrap is thin, but I think it might work to hide that hole nicely. You can get small sample pieces of it online and on ebay for very cheap.

Greg @ dsw

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Greg- I'm not for certain on the routing but I doubt he drilled or cut any carbon. This was his first p3 re route and I think he would have called me to verify first. But there appears to be no kink issues- braking is good. Thx for the tip on the 3m tape. I just ordered a couple samples!

Whoa that is a sick paint job. The stealth look is a bit played out, but this adds some flair. Where did you get it painted?

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

I believe damon said that was plastic inside and not carbon. still, one should be able to drill a hole into it. I still need to try that when I next recable

Holy shit that thing looks sweet!! Just wondering, wouldn't it have been easier to have built up a P5-6 rather than do this with the P3? Could you explain why you went with the P3 vs P5-6? Price$$??

Thanks,

Jason

Damon was the authority, but looking at the P3 frame that I have right here, it sure looks like its an internal carbon 'cup'.

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Thank you!

These guys did a great job:
https://m.facebook.com/cycledashtherapydotnet

I have received this question several times. And for me, it was cheaper to do it this way than a p5. I also didn't want a p5 (again, had one that was too big).

I didn't want a P5 because:

• I was originally looking to save money and was just going to ride a stock p3
• HATE BB mounted brakes for a varitey of reasons.
• A lot of people I know have P5s, and didn't want another one in the group
• Didn't feel the cost/benefit was there for the speed difference in between the two frames.

So with that, I bought the P3 on a sweet discount from a local bike store. It has ultegra 11 speed and the suited me fine.

Then I stumbled upon the aduro bars being sold off by the Garmin when they switched sponsors. I picked some of those up and thought: "Ok, I'm done".

Well we all know that isn't the case. It was eating at me that I could improve this thing a little more. I knew the front end of the p3 had the same dims as a p5 and figured the fork would fit. I started asking around and found one at a shop and arranged to get it and have them order the fairing pieces. Then again, "Ok, I'm done"

Nope. Didn't mind the mitch match color too much, but I already knew I wanted cusom paint (was the intention from the get go). I kept bugging the CFO and she finally gave in. So I got designing and interating with PaintIt (his ST username) and got the process rolling. It just happened he had an opening in mid march and thought he could have it back to me by the beginning of April. So I agreed and sent it off a couple of weeks later. He whipped this thing out and it looks great. Less than a month of time passed between the time it left my door to when I received it. That was way shorter than I had expected before getting in to the process.

So, all that for the nitty gritty: cost. I have detailed my costs below as I really don't care if people know what I spent.

Cervelo 2014 with ultegra 11 speed: $3300
Sold wheels, bars, brakes, crank, saddle, wheels (had flo 30, saddle, and PM from last bike already): $-528 (rounded to nearset dollar on sale items)
Bought 3T Aduro bar: $610 shipped
Sold high V mount: -$300
Bought P5-6 fork and fairings: $450 shipped
Bought Magura Brakes: $210 shipped
Bought miscelaneous materials: ~$75
Paint: $800

Total: $4617

So I didn't save over a P5 framset. However, I have a pretty unique bike as there probably aren't two many p3s with the p5-6 fork. The paint job puts it over the top for me. It is MINE. And I like that. I'm probably giving up a second or two, but I am not going to fret. The money was never the issue when buying a bike, just wanted something I could live with for 5+ years and not complain too much ;). I have a bike that meets my requirements and is super fun to ride. I'll count that as a win for now.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

I completely agree with you but a little more accomplished ;-)

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Yep, you're the third I've seen. I saw one other randomly. Just made me glad I painted :)

I'm finalizing my P3 cabling and I don't remember if the front derailleur cable exit has a grommet? Mine was just a bare hole on the frame.

Very nice. How have you mounted the garmin holder on top of the AeroZ? Using glue or just the bands? Is it stable?

This is the final part of the puzzle for my build!

Mine is bare too and it is working fine. But I think there is supposed to be a grommet (the P2 at my LBS has one at least).

Thank you for confirming. I saw a P2 also from my LBS last week and there's a grommet indeed. Oh, well. Just don't want dirt building up inside the frame.