every WM bb(pf30 variety) I have tried has felt like molasses to turn unloaded and while that is not all that counts, it stil counts in lost watts. don't know if it is the outer seal or what, as the bearing are supposed to be good, at least the enduro abec3

Hi - I'm new to this forum and I cannot wait to get my hands on this P3 in the next few months! Please post more pictures :)

/\ /\ /\ nice bike!

Whilst I concede that your P3 is a mobile billboard for your coaching business, and hope that it generates interest & revenue, I have to say you've made it look like a generic Chinese frame with that repaint.

No offense meant, hopefully none taken.

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´Get the most aero and light bike you can get. With the aero advantage you can be saving minutes and with the weight advantage you can be saving seconds. In a race against the clock both matter.´

BMANX

Ha. Never though of that. Chinese bike... Canadian bike ... all rode by slow american riders.
No offense taken. Been lurking around long enough here to know this crowd.

Question for the P3 masses!

I'm on a Classic P3 size 56, which has 516mm frame stack and 433mm frame reach, and I ride my bike at the steepest seat tube angle with my stem slammed and a 90mm -17 degree stem (happens to be Tririg Sigma XF) and super low stack Felt Devox bars with no pad spacers.

I may potentially need a new frame against a warranty defect, which would be the new P3. I'm not sure I can get my fit on one of these, looking at the geometry tables with all the extra stack. For example, the 54 has 522mm vs 411mm, and I don't want that extra 8mm stack. I've already got my Cee Gees cut in half!! The 51 has 501mm stack which works fine, but only 397mm reach. I'm going to need to move my pads a long way forward (can probably accomodate 20mm or so?) or, sob, get a longer stem. But I love my Sigma :-(

So my question is more generic. If moving from a Classic to New P3, what accomodations have you had to make with front end setup? I'm not moving my seat back!!

Cheers,
Rich.

I have the same type question. But if you move the aero bars way out there, does is not risk make the bike less stable?

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Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

Boom Nutrition code 19F4Y3 $5 off 24 pack box | Bionic Runner | PowerCranks | Velotron | Spruzzamist

Lions don't lose sleep worrying about the sheep

Hello P3 owners - can you show more pics of your Di2 wiring?

mine is fully visible in post 215 :)

no satellite or brake lever buttons

Cant really tell but it looks clean. Where did you mount your junction box?

inside the stem, of course. only exposed wires are to the FD and RD and the FD one may be going away

How did you route the rear brake cable like this?
I want to do the same one my P2 but can't figure out how the cable routes through the frame - going through that port, it seems as though it leads only into the downtube, so how did you get to route back up to the rear exit? There seems to be a wall between the seat tube and top tube (or am I imagining things and just need to muscle it a bit?)

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

You are right in that there seems to be a wall. You essentially have to thread the hose down the headtube, then back up and under the wall up into the top tube, its very fiddly though. I ended up taping string to the hose, and basically pulling it through. Its not easy, but worth it in the long run!

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http://www.twhatley.com

with fork out, bring housing from back(by seatpost) to front and then route up through he toptube box at front. leave as large a loop as possible.

alternately, you can try dremeling a hole into the box back and use a noodle to route bare cable to the back :) I have yet to try this, would seem cleaner. I have suggested it to a couple of folks but none have taken it up, yet,

I have tried the noodle route by routing it through the 3rd open hole in the recessed "box". I the ran bare cable to the rear brake cable exit on the top tube. What I found is that this method made the braking very very mushy due to the play of the metal noodle as it moved when brake levers were pulled.

The remedy that I am considering is to drill an opening in the recessedd box on the back wall and installing a port for the brake cable to enter via the back wall of the box much like tri rig and others have detailed in the DIY top tube cable routing on the original P3's.

What say you ST? Does this seem like a viable option? Is the wall thickness on the recessed box strong enough to support the force of hard braking? I'd like to hear your thoughts before I give this a try. I have not had time to try this yet but I intend to when time allows.

Thanks for your feedback

that was my suggestion. I would use a washer to spread load too, as unsure of thickness of that box

I wouldn't recommend that. The box is just plastic.

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks Damon!!

Yeah, thats the advantage of running Marguras I guess. Not sure I'd fancy running a normal cable brake in that manner.

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http://www.twhatley.com

how about a hole out the back to run full housing through. might be a bit of a better line/less chance of kinking housing

Pic update. Need to remove FD mount, shop sticker, warning stickers, clean up and determine if I am keeping this wide narrow ring.

Very nice build. What will be the deciding factor on keeping the chain ring?

how comfy I am with it after I had to take dremel to it to fit it on the quarq. then there will be seeing if any aero advantages vs friction losses

it is loud on its shifts on the low end(11 and 12)under power

edit: also need to find correct size bolts for it as I had to keep small ring on it currently.