The Bontrager setup comes with a small bracket which bolts on top of the mono extension, allowing clearance for the arm pad "wing." The bottle cage bolts to this bracket. You need this piece to mount a standard (or XLab) cage, unless you can fabricate something.

Thecipollinis wrote:

The Bontrager setup comes with a small bracket which bolts on top of the mono extension, allowing clearance for the arm pad "wing." The bottle cage bolts to this bracket. You need this piece to mount a standard (or XLab) cage, unless you can fabricate something.

Thanks -

edited: found it!

HOLY CRAP $89 just so I can get the mounting bracket?
http://store.trekbikes.com/product/bontrager+speed+concept+water+bottle+cage.do?sortby=ourPicks

I don't think any of the 2014 aero parts are on the Bontrager website yet. I ordered everything through my LBS.

Yeah. It was a bummer, but it works really well. I did have to shave one of the bolts that came with the Torpedo system with my dremmel too. I figured I'll sell the cage to try to recoup some cash.

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Paul
Current Top 2:
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Can't you just zip tie a bottle holder to the extension? Or... I know you can, I do. Why is this thing necessary?

You do need a way to bridge across the armpad piece.

I ended up taking a couple of armpad blocks from a set of profile clip-ons, added 4 hex head screws/2 aircraft nuts and attached the bta cage that way.

The setup has worked well for me.

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Team Kiwami
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Carl,

I am having a problem with Front shifting on the new bike. From a recent post in this thread;

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=5029557#5029557

Is there any way that I can tell (or perhaps you can from the photo I attached) whether my frame is indeed a compact or double frame. I was not even aware there were different types when order from LBS, which is not a good thing.

Thanks,

Chris

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On the internet, you can be anything you want. It is a pity so many people choose to be stupid.

There would be no difference in the frame itself.

As stated, the frame has nothing to do with compact or not. Compact or standard is a designator for the crankset (gearing to be more specific). A typical compact is a 50 tooth big ring and a 34 tooth small ring. Typical standard is a 53 tooth big ring and a 39 tooth small ring. There are also variations (like 52/36 compact or 54/42 standard).

The term double or triple refers to the number of chainrings on the front. All triathlon bikes and most road bikes are doubles.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

 
Sorry for the delay, here are pictures of my cockpit setup. I'm using a Barfly TT to hold the Garmin 800, and the bracket that comes with the Bontrager cage to hold the Xlab Torpedo cage. It worked great at IM 70.3 Oceanside last weekend. Not cheap, but it's rock solid with no rattles, zip ties or velcro.

If you go this route, I think you can get away with just buying the Xlab Torpedo refill kit and Torpedo cage, as you don't need Xlab's mini mount or computer mount (that come with the full Torpedo bottle).

https://flic.kr/p/mH3Y7V


https://flic.kr/p/mH5Tjy


Also, in a previous post, Candice from Xlab posted the following pics of other folks Speed Concept setups (sorry I can't find the original post anymore).


http://xlab-usa.com/images/files/Side%20Shot%20small.jpeg

http://xlab-usa.com/images/files/Use%20of%20spacers%20small.JPG


The 2nd one uses the mounting hardware that comes with the Torpedo bottle instead of the Bontrager bracket. I'm pretty sure they had to drill a hole in the front of the cage though.


Good Luck!
Harry

Just for the record - the 11/32 cassette is working well for me with the Ultegra DI2 Long Cage. It is a little crunchy when in the big ring and the 32 cassette, but that just reminds me to shift ;) Maybe the frame size makes a difference? Mine is large. Oh, and compact cranks.

Harry

What is the Garmin mount on top of there, how is it attached, and is it annoying?

I'm on an XL, so you'd think there'd be more room for it. That said, I'm also running sub-compact, so that could be the issue. Guys at the Trek store here (in Madison, WI, so THE Trek store) tell me I just can't do it, but we didn't have a long cage to try with. I just don't want to buy the extra derailleur and find out it won't work...

Sorry kileyay, I don't know, that is a picture originally posted by Candice at Xlab, I think sent to her by a customer.

I can tell you that for me that computer position would be too far back. I could only see it by dipping my head down.

Harry

I thought this could be the case, but thanks for clarification.

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On the internet, you can be anything you want. It is a pity so many people choose to be stupid.

Hi Carl

I have recently had a retul fit and the local bike shop is having trouble getting the bike to fit as required, I have the 7.5 and they have changed the stem to the high near, which is apparently 12mm too high at the arm pad stack.

My bike is an XL and my retul fit is a BB to arm pad stack of 704mm and and arm pad reach of 395mm from the bottom bracket although retul measure to the back of the pad so can probably add 40-45mm to that.

I'm 6'5 and they have the seat right back.

I've tried to look at the fit guide but it seems inconclusive to me and I'm not sure which spacers it recommends.

Also is there any way to get the front end lower, it already has the 7.5 stock spacer. Can I take that out or does it need to be there?

Thanks for your help, I'm a bit frustrated at the moment, I now have 2 different stems and don't seem to be able to get the right fit.

Frame size makes no difference...all the 700c bikes (S-M-L-XL) share exactly the same rear end geometry. Sounds like you're running into a Shimano spec issue. Certainly people can and do try to push the boundaries on the ranges Shimano publishes, and sometimes they succeed, but in my experience those ranges are what Shimano (and SRAM, for that matter, likely Campy too) is confident will work as intended.

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Carl Matson

Carl,

I have the 2014 SC 9 series frame that I built up over the Winter (Thanks for all of your help, btw). With expressing how impressed I am with the bike, my wife now wants one! She is currently on an older P2 and her current Pad Stack is 661mm and her pad Reach is 479mm. She's always felt a little too high with her fit (Retul). She is wanting to lower her position this year to a slightly lower (more aggressive) position. Using the fit guide, it seems like she's right on the edge between a High Far and a Med Far. Currently I have her at a High Far, but if she lowered her stack by just 10mm she'd be a Med Far.

Any thoughts? Also, if I went with one size and she decided it just wouldn't work, how much of a pain is it to get a different front end?

Thanks,
Eric

The fit guide will tell you exactly which monospacer (and stem) you need...and, incidentally, it also shows exactly why you ended up too high...the root cause is trying to adjust pad stack only with a different stem (35mm increments) rather than a different monospacer (10mm increments). Mind you, for your pad stack, you were going to need a different stem regardless (XL ships with medium-far I believe, and that tops out at 695)...and the high-near does work for you this way, but so does the medium-near...depends on whether you expect to move up or down over time, as one is at the max of its range and the other is at the min.

Here's a bite-sized version of the chart specifically for your case...XL frame, medium-near column and 705 pad stack rows highlighted. Intersection at 15, as in, 15mm monospacer. PN w326500. If you think you're more likely to move down, a medium near with 45mm monospacer +5mm pad wing spacer (green box to the left of my circled intersection) also hits your pad stack.

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Carl Matson

Not Carl obviously, but I just swapped out the stem on mine and did 100% of the work myself, so I feel qualified to answer.

With electronic shifters it was relatively straightforward. It took me ~2 hours spread out over 4 days in 20-30 minute chunks due to real life getting in the way. I'm confident I could do it in an hour or less now that I've been around the block once. That's for the complete stem swap, including drilling the holes for the junction box in the stem cover and reconnecting/readjusting the front brake. If you're just talking about changing monospacers that's like 5-10 minutes.

With mechanical you will have to pull both shift cables to change the monospacer and then reconnect and readjust the derailleurs on the other side, but the housings would stay in place so that shouldn't any more difficult than recabling any other bike.

First thought is that if she's on the edge of two SC combos with a fit she doesn't like...first find the fit she likes and then plug those #s into the fit chart for a more definitive answer. Other than that, I think you've worked through the chart correctly...for a Medium frame. Not knowing what size P2 she's on or what her saddle height is, I think a Large frame with medium-far is a more versatile combo (for the current pad coordinates) from a future adjustability standpoint...right in the heart of the overall range on that frame size:

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Carl Matson

Anybody have any issue with Flo wheels on the Speed Concept? I have a 2014 SC 7.5 and was going to get my first aero wheelset. I'm thinking of trying to get in on Flo's May shipment, and if I can't then going to Hed.

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Paul
Current Top 2:
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Chris Thornham from FLO (ST handle Canadian) and I had some back channel commo on compatibility some time ago and determined there should be no problems where clearance is concerned.

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Carl Matson

Cool. Thanks, Carl. Here's to hoping I get in on time. ;)

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Paul
Current Top 2:
7 Things Non-cyclists Should Know About Road Cycling
The GORUCK Challenge Ruined My Life

I'm running Flo 60 front, 90 rear, no problems. The 90 has a Powertap put in by Wheelbuilder.

Harry