Thanks Carl, I took it back to the point of purchase today. Initially they've indicated that the bolt may have fallen out. Im not sure how that could happen since all the bolts seem to have blue locking on them, it seems the bolt would be long enough that Id here it rattling around, and Im not sure there is actually an room for it to fall out of the area as it seems to enclosed.

Thanks for the feedback on the bottles. Ill go with the down tube as you suggested. I recently rode a sub 4hr 160k tt in quiet bad wind conditions with a bta, one behind the seat, one on the down tube and one on the seat tube - so Im guessing the bike is fast no matter what!

Thanks i have mine setup to finish dis-assembly tonite for the aero and base bars. I'll post pics.

I really like how easy the front brake was to take apart. Genuisly simple design.

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2016:
IMFL #12
http://www.bestbikesplit.com

It'd be even faster if Trek released the 2Pac :(
I'm beginning to think that was a prototype design that got shelved rather than a product Trek ever intended to bring to market.

Ive been wondering about that too. To be honest one of the biggest selling points of the bike too me was the 2pac, the bento box, handle bar/bta integration and draft box. Just soLve a heap of issues for me. It'd go pretty close to false advertising here in Australia if its never released I would think - Im just hoping it comes out soon.

I've got mine packed nice and tight, all wrapped in a shop rag also. I'm certain I'm getting the lid on fully, but mine still keeps popping open. I guess I have a bad one? The big tab on the box definitely doesn't have much "spring" to it. It's only 2 weeks old and it pops off on minor bumps.

Any solutions other than electrical tape?

Mines being replaced. I tried electrical tape. If you need to open the box during the ride, the tape (i used) does not always hold again. Imagine my tears when the tape peeled off all the paint on the lid when I removed it - after all this bike is in excess of $10,000 - more than my car!

Yeah... that was my thoughts about the tape. Actually, I didn't expect that it was a painted piece, but I figured multiple layers of tape (new tape after each use) were going to leave a residue and start looking pretty rough after a while.

It's hard to believe, based on how well thought out everything is on the bike and accessories, that this piece seems so junky.

I did a test run for disassembling last nite. My experience was not too good.

Disassemby:
Remove Fin, seatpost, rear derailleur, open up each brake, remove base bar 3 bolts from stem, remove aero bar from base

Now to lay into bike bag i had to also pull out the slack housing from frame which did not get me much play to lay base and aero bars down but i think it will work.

So far so good.

Reassembly:
Rear Derailleur
My biggest concern is putting back the slack housing into the frame, there is no ez way to do this but just a bunch of trial and error pushing it back in.
Having all kinds of problems getting rear derailleur and shifter to get back to normal shifting thru the cogs.

Front Brake
There is some sort of floating cable wedge in side the stem that goes along with this cable, once you pull it out to get some slack i had no idea how or where to set it back to.
It took alot of playing around and pulling on the end brake cable wedge to get it fully pulled out. If its not that front brake wont work correctly, it needs to be set perfectly on the wedge with the brake arms.

Base Bar
Have to be VERY carefull screwing these back in, 2 of them were allowed to be slightly off when screwing back in and seems to damage slightly the base bar threading. I will now need to get another riser part for fear the threads might now make it past the next assembly.

In the end i think i have it back all working but will need to take into to fine tune shifting again. I am a little bit scared now to take to Grand Rapids for Nationals and not need some last minute assistance.

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2016:
IMFL #12
http://www.bestbikesplit.com

Howdy-

A little concerned about the references to pulling slack housing out of the frame. While we recommend there be some slack, maybe 3-5cm, primarily for ease of small fit adjustments, trying to actually pull anything out of the frame risks pulling the housing ends out of their stops at the BB and the brakes & shifters...upon reassembly they can then get hung up outside of their stops and your shifting and braking will be compromised.

I can see removing the speedfin to protect it or to aid fitting the frame in your travel case (sometimes I do, sometimes I don't, depending on what case or box I'm using), but removing the rear brake wedge from between the brake arms really shouldn't be necessary...there's more "slack" (free housing length) between the frame and the basebar for the rear brake than the front, and in most cases it should be enough to allow reorientation of the basebar for packing.

The front brake cable stop orientation depends on which stem you have and how you have your front housing routed...all of which is covered in the owner's manual...see esp. pages 15-16.

The rear bolts which clamp the basebar between the stem and the monospacer go in at an angle (see page 18 in the manual)...and it's easier to get them started & ensure they're going in correctly if the mono, bar, and stem are held together vs left slightly separated. Don't know if that is what happened in your case, but figured I'd throw it out there.

Hope this helps...and good idea doing a dry run!

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Carl Matson

Thanks, the picture of the front brake ferrule location might help if i need to disassemble again. I am also very concerned now about the slack and how much i can/should be able to extend out to orient the base bar. I will go back and check with my LBS who built and see if i can get them to pack in my bike bag for me just to be safe.

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2016:
IMFL #12
http://www.bestbikesplit.com

Hey,

Ordered a P1 bike a month ago through my local bike shop. There has been a considerable delay due to trek being unhappy with the frames in a particular production run. My LBS is treating me right and is insuring I have a bike to mount for an upcoming race so there isn't a concern there.

I have two opposing thoughts on the delay 1) it's good to know that Trek has nipped a potential problem in the bud and 2) is there a greater production issue of which I need be concerned.

FYI, 7 series P1

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Dan Mayberry
Amateur a lot of things, professional a few things.

This concerns me as I have one on order as well. Did they give you an initial lead time when you first ordered? Did you get an updated lead time?

I ordered march 20 (ish) and I think my date was around May 1. A few days ago they updated me with another four weeks. Delays happen, I'm not overly concerned about that (especially as I'm being treated well) but the production issue does or it doesn't..:I'm not sure.

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Dan Mayberry
Amateur a lot of things, professional a few things.

agree. I ordered early April and was told a leadtime of 52-66 days so this matches the issues you are experiencing. I guess I rather they fix the issue than identify anything after I already have mine. Just eager to ride.

The lead time on the P1 9 Series bikes is around 42-45 days right now. Non-P1 frames are at 36-38 days according to my shop yesterday. I just can't decide if I should do a frame and build a Di2 bike or Ultegra now and upgrade later.

Hi everyone.

My new SC 7.5 2014 arrived one week ago to my lbs (in Sweden) after 39 days of leadtime. The manager says that it will take his crew one day to build the bike and because of that the build has't started, i.e they have much work to do in the shop now...

Can anyone tell me if this is true? How long time does it take to build the bike?

I want to go training on my new bike now!

(Sorry for my english that could be better)

Build time varies with experience. If it's the first time someone has seen an SC or anything like it, might take twice as long as compared to the 5th or 20th SC build. Could be they want to give it 100% attention and train up the shop mechanics at the same time rather than rushing it. Great time of year to be a dealer for sales...wrenches, not so much.

Din engelska är bättre än min svenska. Ha Det!

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Carl Matson

I built my 2014 SC 9.9 from the ground up. It took about 8 hours being very patient and meticulous... and I'm no bike shop mechanic.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

Just seeing how peoples sc's are holding up? Trying to decide between the SC and a P3....love the integration and clean, no cable look of the trek, but understand there may be some wrenching annoyances though. I plan to retul fit on the bike and 'set and forget' so wont be messing with at all really, but curious if people have had any issues etc with them?

Hi Carl,

I've been on my new Trek Speed Concept 9.9 (stock) for a month now and the clear coat appears to be coming off. It almost looks like the paint wasn't mixed or applied properly. I understand Trek has a 1 yr warranty on paint. What are my options at this point?

Thanks!

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"Shake it before you bake it!"

My rear derailleur on my Di2 is not shifting. Battery is charged. Front works fine.

How can I diagnose this problem myself instead of taking to a shop for what is most likely an easy fix.

I've never worked on electronic shifting, but am pretty handing fixing other things on my bike so I'm sure I can get by. I just need to know the first place I should look.

Thanks.

bring it to your dealer and discuss a claim

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Carl Matson

the first things I would check are the connections at the rear derailleur and the BB...the latter will require you to remove the cranks and BB, so hopefully its just a case of the rear derailleur not being plugged in completely . basically, if you can remove the wire from either one without too much effort then it was never securely plugged in the first place .

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Carl Matson

I'm digging mine, and it's holding up well. The tires it comes with are a bit on the weenie side as I got a puncture from a small rock, but those are easy and cheap enough to replace. I was going to upgrade from a P2 to a P3 and somehow (and happily) ended up on a SC 7.5. I'm still a little skittish about working on the bike because of all the custom integration, but when you get down to it, it's easy enough. My only concern will be traveling to Tahoe with it. It's not as comfortable in pursuit position as my P2 and the P3 I test rode, but it's more comfy in aero (I RETUL'ed my P2 and this bike). I guess that's what counts.

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Paul
Current Top 2:
7 Things Non-cyclists Should Know About Road Cycling
The GORUCK Challenge Ruined My Life

Hej/ Hello and thanks for your answer Carl. Happy to say that I got my bike today and the first short ride felt great!

Happy to be part of the Trek family!