The only way to go lower than the integrated cockpit hardware on the 7.5 and 9srs 2014 bikes is to use the steer stub accessory (stock on 7.0, PN 438987 if purchased separately) and run aftermarket bars and negative rise or adjustable standard stems. Not really different from the situation P5+Aduro or Shiv owners find themselves in...the high end integrated hardware has limits, but all three platforms offer an option to run standard hardware as a workaround.

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Carl Matson

Stock bikes in the Small size come with 170s. In Project One you can pick crank length. Haven't run a new 7.0 in the tunnel, but for the same pad position, I'd expect the drag deltas to be no worse than what we saw on the previous model 9srs vs 7srs (drag plots and other info on protocol in the original SC white paper), and likely somewhat better since there's no difference anymore in the fork and headtube between the two models.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl, I am totally aware of this option.

Regrettably the setup you suggested would transform one of the more visually appealing high end tri bikes into IMHO one of the least visually appealing bikes in the history of the bicycle. That's perhaps hay the 7.0 is not available here in Europe at all für 2014.

Jeff, my LBS asked about this when I ordered my Project One SC. Trek told them that the Plug-and-Play doesn't come with extensions, so shipping a bike with it would not be shipping a complete bike.

I wish I could at find a good picture of the Plug-and-Play. I'd like to find out how far out it sits beyond the base bar so that I can start planning what bottle to use.

Harry

Hi Carl

My old SC7 has a alu plate behind the bottom bracket to protect the frame when the chain drops off.
My new SC9 2014 does not have such a plate. My chain dropped off and my frame is scratched now.
I saw a picture of a 2014 SC9 with such a plate mounted.
Is that plate not included on each SC9 2014 frame?

Nic

That "plate" is on every 2014SC...it's embedded into the carbon vs being a separate stick-on piece.

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Carl Matson

My new SC9 don't have such a plate. I'm really shocked!
What can I do?

that plate is in the carbon, under the paint...how do you know you don't have it?

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Carl Matson

You mean it's totally invisible?
And when the chain drops off the paint will be scratched.
In my opinion old solution was better in case when the chain drop off.
Can the old plate be ordered separately?
I would like to mount such a plate.

The primary purpose of the chainstrike guards, old and new, isn't really paint protection...it's carbon protection.

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Carl Matson

I understand.
I love my new SC9, I'm very happy with, but every single scratch is a stitch into my heart.

I feel for you, I do.

The old design did offer some paint protection by it's nature (external to the paint), but it also decreased the clearance between chainring and frame in the event of a chain drop. This occasionally led to the guard being ripped off the frame entirely. Then, whatever was causing the chain drops could keep happening (until it was fixed...you'd be amazed how long some people will let things go), and unless the guard was replaced, there was the potential for more serious damage. It hurts to see a good paint job get scratched, but touch-up paint is a lot cheaper than a frame. Thanks for understanding.

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Carl Matson

I have one of the mono extension adapter pieces, I picked it up from my LBS today since I pre-ordered it but won't be needing it now. If you or anyone else needs one PM me. Selling for 150 shipped.

Hi Carl, another week, more tears with my trek. Could you help me with the following please (or someone else if they have the info)

The bottle holder for the extensions finally arrived for my trek today. There were no instructions, nor could I find any on the net. So I simply lined the wholes up to the extensions and torqued it the the requirements. The metal bracket subsequently bent over the mono piece for the pads the screws into the extensions and when the required torq was reached still had a massive gap of 3-4mm to being flush with the extensions. Whats gone wrong ? How do you install this thing. Going to cost me another $100 to get another bottle holder.

Also, I tried all the combinations to get the speed box lid to stay on. Didnt work, jut kept popping off. Obviuously pointless and useless in a race scenario. So I just resigned myself to using tape on a $10,000 plus bike. However when I removed the tape to get at the box, all the paint has lifter from the lid. This I'm not happy with. Shareholder of trek will be happy I guess - can I order a new gloss black lid, or do I have to order the whole thing? What are the part numbers, and if I need to buy the whole thing, can I get the one that comes with liquid red.

Thanks

Do you have the 5mm spacer installed under the pad wing? The bottle bracket would need to be spaced upwards by the same amount.

The draft box situation should probably be handled through a warranty claim. I'm not a claim rep, but the paint issue in particular may fit within the terms found here.

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Carl Matson

Carl,

with a Pad Stack of 60cm and a pad reach of 53cm in addition to a base bar Stack of 55cm and reach of 65cm.... am I assuming correctly that I'd have to order a size medium frame with a low & far stem?

thanks

tim

Hi tim

yes, if those #s represent a position you're happy with, the Medium with low-far does the best job of meeting them while still offering some tweak-ability. that's a really long pad reach for that size, though...are your pads well forward of your forearms?

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Carl Matson

Thanks Harry. Good I fo

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Primum Non Nocere, except to Kempy!

Thanks Carl - couple of comments/questions to follow up below.

Re fit, I'm looking like I could be on either a Large or X-Large (Medium-Near in both cases).

• Armpad stack is 680
• Armpad reach is 463
• Going a bit lower and longer for shorter events (so HIM and shorter).
• Saddle height (top of saddle) is 833

So it looks like saddle height is actually an issue here for me! A large with long post and 50mm offset looks like it will work (just - needs rails to top of saddle to be at least 20mm). I might get the 15mm offset to work if the saddle rails to saddle top were 40mm - any idea if this is the case with the Hilo saddles?

As I understand it the 50mm offset will put me further behind the BB (UCI style position) whereas I'm looking solely at tri's and am aiming for saddle tip about 25mm behind BB (and that's using a Hilo/noseless saddle). Can I achieve this with the 50mm offset seatpost?

So, does the above mean I "must" go to an X-Large?

(A Medium with the High-Far stem actually looked like a good option until I worked out that I couldn't get the seat height (even with the long 50mm offset post it maxes out at 792mm which means I need 41mm from rails to saddle top if I'm at absolute max extension) - any idea if a P1 build could fix that with a longer post or is it just that the frame and seat post combo is never going to get there?)

I know ST orthodoxy is go the larger frame and ride less "stuff" but I have seen you comment elsewhere that this applies less to the SC 9.X on the basis that the "stuff" is pretty integrated and aero. Hard to guess what would be stiffer (assuming I'm having to look between Large and an X-Large?) - an X-large frame with longer tubes or Large frame with more spacers.

Any thoughts?





Thanks - just trying to work out what disc cover would work as wheel builder say that the SC isn't suitable for theirs. I wonder though if that's with a low profile rim and whether a 70 or 90 rear would mean that the disc cover would fit as the "angle" starts from further back along the chainstay. Any experience or advice to offer here?


Cheers

Carl, I know that that is just about as long as one can go on a size medium... that's why I asked. I rode a QR cd 0.1, size ML the last two years with a 120mm stem and the HED Aerobar in 2013 and the Pro Missile Pro Evo bar in 2013. And regarding the pads & forearm... I would not say they are "well forward of my forearms", see the pic below:

Has anyone cut length off their ergo bend bars? Don't like the fact I have a comfortable grip on the aerobar but the shifters are an inch above my hand. Was thinking as long as it was cut so the shifters wouldn't bottom out and cables would go back through I would be ok.

Mark

If your longer-lower strategy for shorter races requires more than 10mm of drop, you're better off on the Large...XL can get more than 10mm drop too, but not without going to a different stem.

Most saddles have at least 40mm rails-to-top (40mm is more characteristic of a low-profile road-racing saddle measurement, so not usually a concern with tri saddles), so I don't think you need to worry too much if you do decide to go with the Large and the 15mm offset post.

Doubt you'd notice any stiffness differences between the two sizes...they're pretty small in any case.

Wheelbuilder says what they have to say because they can't check every possible combination. There are people out there willing to "improve upon" the stock attachment system (taping the cover on, taping to the spokes from the inside, etc). I have one of their covers on my Aeolus 9 D3 right now and it fits fine in the SC. Have also raced with one on an A5 D3 and it fits fine in the SC. And an older Aeolus6.5 and it fits fine in the SC. Like many others, I use tape...though only at the rim...haven't found the need to do the spoke thing. There are many similar stories to be found on ST.

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Carl Matson

OK, so you're just way out in front. You would be giving up almost 4cm of front-center going to the Medium SC...meaning your weight distribution will be shifted forward relative to the front wheel by that much. Judging by your saddle height on that QR in the pic, you could easily use a large SC if it got low enough for you...which it just misses (minimum pad stack of 605) unless you use the steer stub and your own cockpit. For what it's worth, you can squeeze a couple more mm out of the pad stack on any combination of frame and stem by omitting the tilt cradle...which would eliminate the ability to angle the extensions up or down.

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Carl Matson

All of the mono-extensions are designed with cutting in mind. You should find some cut guide markings at the ends of the mono...about 25mm worth...but depending on your shifters, you may be able to get as much as 35-40mm. If you decide to do this, I suggest measuring the portion of your shifter which goes inside the mono...then do the same with the inside of the mono (run something down the inside of the wall until you feel resistance...that'll be the end of the controlled inner diameter)...subtract first from second, and that's how much you can cut.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl - the answers / thoughts are much appreciated.


Cheers