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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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Quick question regarding how you patch bigger punctures (> 1mm) on your road tires. I've got a larger than a pinhole puncture on my 5000s. Orange Seal worked perfectly and it's not leaking any air. Is it worth it to go ahead and patch it with something like the Hutchinson Rep'Air kit as extra cautionary measure? Thanks!

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [allenpg] [ In reply to ]
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allenpg wrote:
Quick question regarding how you patch bigger punctures (> 1mm) on your road tires. I've got a larger than a pinhole puncture on my 5000s. Orange Seal worked perfectly and it's not leaking any air. Is it worth it to go ahead and patch it with something like the Hutchinson Rep'Air kit as extra cautionary measure? Thanks!

Personally, for small punctures that self-seal, I just keep riding. If it's a bigger puncture, then I think a patch/plug is warranted (or if it's big enough - a new tire).

Greg Kopecky - Slowtwitch Tech Editor
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [Old lungs] [ In reply to ]
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Did you remove your valve cores before using the Schwalbe tire booster? I have the same booster and taking out the cores before seating makes a big difference.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [brando] [ In reply to ]
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yeah. I just put a 2nd layer of tape so will try tonight since I just got more Stan's.
I have a jet 6 front which worked like a charm.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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Spent 3 hours trying to get GP5K TL's onto Reynolds Assaults this weekend. One of the hardest things I've ever done, no exaggeration.

If I get an unsealable flat on the road...I'm calling to get picked up. 0% chance I can do that again in a tight spot on the side of the road. Still feel more confident than using tubes. Now awaiting my valves, tubeless pump and I'll be on the road. Very excited to go tubeless road after using them for my gravel and mtb's.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [cassinonorth] [ In reply to ]
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cassinonorth wrote:
Spent 3 hours trying to get GP5K TL's onto Reynolds Assaults this weekend. One of the hardest things I've ever done, no exaggeration.

If I get an unsealable flat on the road...I'm calling to get picked up. 0% chance I can do that again in a tight spot on the side of the road. Still feel more confident than using tubes. Now awaiting my valves, tubeless pump and I'll be on the road. Very excited to go tubeless road after using them for my gravel and mtb's.

Yeah, I've heard that the newer Reynolds are a tight fit in general, and particularly with those tires. Keep that cell phone charged in case of a flat! ;)

Greg Kopecky - Slowtwitch Tech Editor
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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gregk wrote:
cassinonorth wrote:
Spent 3 hours trying to get GP5K TL's onto Reynolds Assaults this weekend. One of the hardest things I've ever done, no exaggeration.

If I get an unsealable flat on the road...I'm calling to get picked up. 0% chance I can do that again in a tight spot on the side of the road. Still feel more confident than using tubes. Now awaiting my valves, tubeless pump and I'll be on the road. Very excited to go tubeless road after using them for my gravel and mtb's.


Yeah, I've heard that the newer Reynolds are a tight fit in general, and particularly with those tires. Keep that cell phone charged in case of a flat! ;)

Considering adding a bit of sealant to my flat kit along with bacon strips. Worthwhile?
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [cassinonorth] [ In reply to ]
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cassinonorth wrote:
gregk wrote:
cassinonorth wrote:
Spent 3 hours trying to get GP5K TL's onto Reynolds Assaults this weekend. One of the hardest things I've ever done, no exaggeration.

If I get an unsealable flat on the road...I'm calling to get picked up. 0% chance I can do that again in a tight spot on the side of the road. Still feel more confident than using tubes. Now awaiting my valves, tubeless pump and I'll be on the road. Very excited to go tubeless road after using them for my gravel and mtb's.


Yeah, I've heard that the newer Reynolds are a tight fit in general, and particularly with those tires. Keep that cell phone charged in case of a flat! ;)


Considering adding a bit of sealant to my flat kit along with bacon strips. Worthwhile?

I think so. Don't forget a valve core tool.

Greg Kopecky - Slowtwitch Tech Editor
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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Good call. Still far less weight than an extra tube. My bike is down to a slim 16.6 lbs after weighing it going tubeless.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [cassinonorth] [ In reply to ]
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They loosen up within 1000 miles (probably less, but that is the soonest I've ever removed one). Riding locally, I don't bother to carry anything other than a small pump and dynaplug.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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gregk wrote:
cassinonorth wrote:
Spent 3 hours trying to get GP5K TL's onto Reynolds Assaults this weekend. One of the hardest things I've ever done, no exaggeration.

If I get an unsealable flat on the road...I'm calling to get picked up. 0% chance I can do that again in a tight spot on the side of the road. Still feel more confident than using tubes. Now awaiting my valves, tubeless pump and I'll be on the road. Very excited to go tubeless road after using them for my gravel and mtb's.


Yeah, I've heard that the newer Reynolds are a tight fit in general, and particularly with those tires. Keep that cell phone charged in case of a flat! ;)

This was actually the reason i switched to tubless on my Reynolds Strikes. Had been running GP4000s and they were a nightmare to get on. I ended up with a puncture miles from home and it took me 25 mins to get the tyre back on the rim. Decided to change to tubeless in the hope it might reduce the frequency of changing tubes (which was low anyway to be fair). But the 5000TLs were a nightmare to get on as well, but hopefully they'll be on for a while.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks to everyone who has provided advice, insight, words of encouragement, etc. I'm a week into the tubeless experiment, and the verdict is "so far, so good." A couple of observations:

1. Adding sealant helps with the air loss. Earth shattering, I know. And over the course of the week, the rate of air loss decreased. I still need to air up before each ride, but I'm not having to add as much air.

2. For all the nightmare experiences people seem to have with getting Conti GP5000s onto their wheels, they're a breeze to get onto HED Vanquish 6s. A couple of minutes for each tire, without too much force. No tools needed, and no swearing involved. That goes for 25mm tires and 28mm tires.

Mike Sparks


I have competed well, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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gregk wrote:
I normally run about 72psi front, 75 rear on 28's and I'm a fatty @ about 200 lbs (been lifting weights and stuff). I never pinch flat. Dan weighs about 10 lbs less than me and said he runs 75-80 because he prefers a bit firmer feel. I run about 80-85 on 25s... and I never ride 23's anymore.

I went tubeless in 2016 with Reynolds Assault/Strike wheels and bought a bunch of Schwalbe Pro Ones that are 23s. My understanding from your comments so far is that wider is more comfortable and more compatible with lower pressure resulting in higher probability of sealing certain punctures. Is that fair? In your opinion, what would be the ideal psi (least rolling resistance, best chance to seal on puncture, etc.) on these 23s for a rider of 150lbs?
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [Petrarch] [ In reply to ]
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Petrarch wrote:

more compatible with lower pressure resulting in higher probability of sealing certain punctures. Is that fair? In your opinion, what would be the ideal psi (least rolling resistance, best chance to seal on puncture, etc.) on these 23s for a rider of 150lbs?


Just my experience, but I don't think there's that much higher complete sealant failure from *starting* with a higher pressure. Even starting that high, I've usually sealed by around 25-60PSI. It just means you tend to fall much lower from the starting point before you finally seal. Because it takes longer to bleed that pressure before finally sealing, there is some risk of blowing all your sealant out before you get to a seal-able pressure. But (in my experience), it'll still eventually finally seal.

The cases where it gets down to the <40 PSI level is when I like to pull over, jam a plug in, and inject some more CO2. Which is still *much* better than going to zero, and having to put a tube in.

Eyeball, I'd put about 95 PSI in for 23s/150lb rider.
Last edited by: trail: Apr 12, 20 12:39
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [trail] [ In reply to ]
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How often are folks adding sealant to road setups? I generally go about 4-6 months on my mountain and gravel bike and wonder if that tempo would stay the same for my new road tubeless set up?
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [SkipS] [ In reply to ]
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SkipS wrote:
How often are folks adding sealant to road setups? I generally go about 4-6 months on my mountain and gravel bike and wonder if that tempo would stay the same for my new road tubeless set up?

Same schedule. You're using the same sealant (I'm assuming... I don't change sealants between road and mountain). So the sealant is going to evaporate at the same rate. So you're losing the same amount over time, as a percentage of total original sealant volume per tire.

The biggest driver of your sealant schedule is how humid (or not) your area is. If you're not sure how fast it's evaporating, uninstall one of the tire beads and take a peek.

Greg Kopecky - Slowtwitch Tech Editor
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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gregk wrote:
SkipS wrote:
How often are folks adding sealant to road setups? I generally go about 4-6 months on my mountain and gravel bike and wonder if that tempo would stay the same for my new road tubeless set up?


Same schedule. You're using the same sealant (I'm assuming... I don't change sealants between road and mountain). So the sealant is going to evaporate at the same rate. So you're losing the same amount over time, as a percentage of total original sealant volume per tire.

The biggest driver of your sealant schedule is how humid (or not) your area is. If you're not sure how fast it's evaporating, uninstall one of the tire beads and take a peek.

I prefer the "remove the valve core and insert a 'dip stick' " approach ;-)

http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [andy tetmeyer] [ In reply to ]
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Hi Andy - do you recommend 1 or 2 wraps of stans rim tape on your ardennes?
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [SkipS] [ In reply to ]
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We use two. I have gone one on tubeless, no problems, but no margin of error either.

Andy Tetmeyer (I work at HED)

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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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Time to change out Schwalbe's on Reynolds Strike wheels, but I can't break the bead to get the damn things off. Any hints? I am regretting just not having the LBS do this.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [Greatzaa] [ In reply to ]
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Greatzaa wrote:
Time to change out Schwalbe's on Reynolds Strike wheels, but I can't break the bead to get the damn things off. Any hints? I am regretting just not having the LBS do this.

Put the wheelset in a big oven and set to around 150*C til the tire & sealant gets warm.
Should work.

res, non verba
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [Greatzaa] [ In reply to ]
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Greatzaa wrote:
Time to change out Schwalbe's on Reynolds Strike wheels, but I can't break the bead to get the damn things off. Any hints? I am regretting just not having the LBS do this.

When I have a bead that won't come off the bead shelf, I set the wheel down on its side, on a towel or piece of cardboard (something to keep the rim from getting scratched on the ground). Then I step on the tire *right* where it meets the rim edge. Usually my body weight is enough to motivate the bead to disengage.

There was one instance where this didn't work and I had to cut the tire off of the wheel... one of the VERY stubborn older Hutchinsons with carbon beads.

Greg Kopecky - Slowtwitch Tech Editor
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [efernand] [ In reply to ]
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I started using Tubeless way early I guess, over 12 years (maybe 15?) ago with a pair of Mavic Kyrsium especial wheels and Hutchinson tubeless tires because that was all that were available at that time. They were fantastic, I never got a flat and lived in New Mexico, then Florida. I think if you did a Pepsi challenge with tubulars you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

A little rant. As I discovered, Mavic wheels crack at the spoke nipple quite frequently. Sadly, because they were a few years old, replacement rims were not available. WTF, Mavic. The hubs are/were still great but according to Mavic nothing available is compatible. That was a few years ago and I'm still chapped about and will never buy Mavic wheels again. I still have the wheels in storage, they are too nice looking to trash.

Anyway, I really like Panaracer tubeless (only available from Excel Sports) probably my favorite but man, they are a cast iron bitch to mount. I recently had a pair of wheels built up and put on some big fat Schwalbe tubeless and they are very very nice also, and damn easy to mount.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [KSG65] [ In reply to ]
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Fyi schwable pro ones are on sale at backcountry for 60% off.
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Re: Tubeless wheel and tire SUPER THREAD [gregk] [ In reply to ]
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New (sort of) tubeless convert with a couple of question for the tubeless brain trust.

I converted to tubeless in Dec 2019 and just had my first puncture after about 4 months/1000 miles (I do a fair amount of Zwifting on my other bike). After I heard the hissing stop and seeing the sealant on the frame I stopped and could see a shard of glass in the tire and the tire was soft. No more air was leaking. With only 8 miles left in my ride, I just road it home instead of squirting some CO2 into it. At home, when I put air in the tire at about 40-50 psi air started leaking from where the glass shard was (it apparently dislodged from the tire on the rest of the ride home). So had I stopped and put CO2 in the tire it wouldn't have improved my situation.

Q1: I expected the sealant to close up the puncture, so that all I would need to do is squirt some CO2 in and continue riding (or racing) in all except severe punctures. This was not the case, is this normal? Or is there something different or better I can do with my tubeless setup?

Q2: I tried to plug the tire with a leyzene plug and tool but it didn't hold. The puncture was much smaller than the tool, so I made it 'larger'using the tool to get the plug in. In the end I just put a new tire on, but aside from the puncture there seems to be plenty of life left in the tire. Should I expect to replace tires most any time I get a puncture?

When I removed and replaced the tire, there was plenty of sealant still in the tire. The sealant was still viscous and appeared as if it was fresh out of the bottle after 5 months of riding.

My setup is HED Jet 6 wheels with 23mm Schwalbe Pro 1 tires (on the wide rim HED's they look and fit more like 25's). I run them at 80 psi with Stan's sealant. I am 168lbs/76.2kg at 5'10"/178cm.

Thank you in advance for your collective wisdom! This thread has been a great source of information.
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