My draft box lid hasn't come off but the entire box launched not once but twice on today's ride. I went over a little bump at about 35 and the whole thing flew off into the road. Surprisingly it didn't break but it's pretty scratched up. I took it off for a sprint last weekend and may not have made sure the button popped out when I reinstalled it.

9 series frame ordered today... Standard XL frame was 31 days out according to the shop. Now I just have to decide how to build it. It will have ENVE 8.9 wheels (already have them). Probably going Ultegra Di2 with a DA crank and Adamo Attck saddle, but haven't fully decided. The biggest sticking point is which crank to go with since I already have a powertap laced into the ENVEs.

Where is this button? Mine fully popped off for first time on last nite on a bump i have hit many times before. I dont have anything but a small empty notch at the bottom of the draft box.

I am seeing now in the assembly guide that the rail to it should have a spring loaded bolt which i dont have, i am guessing i would need a whole new box and cant get just the part for the rails.

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2016:
IMFL #12
http://www.bestbikesplit.com

ETA: you edited your post as I was writing this...will post anyway for the benefit of others.

it's not on the box...it's part of the mounting rail:



and when the box is installed and viewed from the side, you should see something like this:



what's probably going on in these ejections is the box hasn't been fully seated on the rail...button not engaged...so from the side you may see the above, but from the front you can see here the button isn't engaging the corresponding cutout on the box:



it's supposed to look like this:



and one thing you can do to improve your chances of getting it to that last state is to move the rail up a millimeter or two (it's mounted through slots, so loosen bolts, slide rail up a smidge, retighten)...that way the box won't bottom out on the frame before the button engages.

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Carl Matson

Thanks that is what i saw missing. I dont see a part for the rail itself in the Assembly guide, does a seperate one exist?

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2016:
IMFL #12
http://www.bestbikesplit.com

no. did your draftbox come stock with the bike or was it an aftermarket purchase? who did the initial installation? I'm trying to figure out how that button went missing...because that assembly is deliberately hard to disassemble (i.e. not supposed to happen accidentally) for this exact reason.

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Carl Matson

It was stock and assembled at local bike shop. i had taken off box a few times so i can only believe it somehow came off, i do recall back in Aug/Sep when i first got it, it did have a snap in button locking it.

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2016:
IMFL #12
http://www.bestbikesplit.com

Carl. Any chance you guys are going to be coming out with a smaller version of the draft box II? I put my tube and CO2 in there and had enough room left over for a change of clothes and a sandwich. I had to stuff a rag in there to keep everything from bouncing around, but now it's kind of heavy. I'm not sure what I'm going to do for races.

no plans for that right now. a tube and a Co2 would probably fit nicely (and rattle less) in the Speedbox II.

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Carl Matson

Thanks. Maybe I'll go that route.

Speaking of rattles, I've got a rattle in the handlebars that's driving me insane. The bike shop thought it was the brake cable and tried fixing it, but it's still rattling. Any suggestions? I'm thinking it might be the front brake ferrule.

Do you know if I can buy the DI2 wire that goes from the extensions to the junction box? Or do I need to buy all of them as a set? Mine got pinched during my bike fit and my DI2 quit working. The shop got it working, but I'd like to replace that wire or at least have a spare on hand in case I have problems down the road.

doubt it's the front brake ferrule, unless you've got a bunch of free lever travel (indicating a slack cable)...brake housing is the most likely culprit. while it makes routing the housing more difficult, you could try doing the Di2 ziptie thing, or maybe some o-rings every so often on the housing.

as for the Di2 wire, original Dura Ace Di2 cockpit harness was a single hardwired unit that branched off to the extensions and brifters and has to be bought the same way. Newer Di2 (e-tube) wires are available separately in lengths from 250mm-1000mm in 50mm increments and then a 1200 and a 1400. You or your shop should be able to pull the old wire, measure, and order the correct replacement.

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Carl Matson

Carl is right. After the second launch I noticed that even after I had reinstalled it the button still hadn't popped out. Won't make that mistake again. It can sure take a beating though. I thought it was going to be in pieces when I heard it hit the deck but it's just really scratched up.

Bubble wrap?

Hi Carl,

From the Speed Concept 2014 sizing chart, what does Mid-Range and Full-Range in the upper row implies? Different bar extension length? Different Stem?

You're on the right track...here's a little more info.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl,
i have i Trek SC 2012 Medium, i assume that if i want the new 2014 will be Medium too.

And if i get the new 2014 SC, what messures i must take to get the same fit in the new bike.

Hi there-

If you're happy with your current fit on a medium, then you'll almost certainly stay on a medium. You take measurements as shown here, and plug those into the 2014 fit document.

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Carl Matson

Thanks a lot Carl

Carl-

With the BTA bottle mount accessory, will it accept different cages on it? I'd like to run something like the X-Lab Torpedo bottle (or similar) so I'd have a straw to pull up and drink from as needed.

Thanks in advance...

Absolutely. Multiple mounting positions (3), each on the bottle cage hole standard. When used with our cage and its slotted mount provisions, the microadjust capability is unmatched and you actually get a fair amount of extended range fore-aft compared to regular cages.

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Carl Matson

Awesome... Thanks for the quick response.

Hey Carl, Do you have access to P1 order status or do I need to go through my LBS to get that? I placed an order and was just curious on the ETA.

can't see P1 from where I sit. your Trek dealer should be able to track down ETA info via the order #.

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Carl Matson

Actually, it does happen easily & accidentally. I posted on this earlier.

fwiw, mine has been installed from day 1 without the button and it's still on there so tightly I'd go so far as to say it's never coming off.