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Cut Base Bars - NEW [ In reply to ]
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About done attempting my first bike build, a Gen2 speed concept. I’ve ridden it on the trainer quite a bit to dial in the fit, and I’ve come to the conclusion that I’d prefer the base bar/bullhorns be “shorter” (decreased reach). I’m wondering if there is any reason I couldn’t cut about ½” off the ends, which would move the brake levers back?

https://www.dropbox.com/...04/IMG_4433.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/...iz/IMG_4434.jpg?dl=0
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [rdiggidy] [ In reply to ]
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I've been riding a 2018 SC for the last two years and have my position relatively dialed but am a little frustrated with the lack of adjustability in the frontend. Specifically I'd like tilt adjustment (beyond the very limited adjust with monobar) and easier rise/reach adjust. I'm considering a new bike for next year, but an alternative would be outfitting the SC with a new set of aerobar like the TriRig Alpha Ones: https://www.tririg.com/store.php?c=alphaone

Are aftermarket bars like these compatible with the SC, and has anyone done something similar? It's not exactly clear from TriRig or some quick googling. My guess is "no" due to the integrated frontend but I thought I'd ask here just in case and see if people had any alternatives. I'm aware of the mono extender which would allow different extensions but that's sort of a half measure in terms of what I'm hoping for.
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Crentist] [ In reply to ]
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No they aren’t compatible.

What specific issues are you having? The built in tilt will get you about 10-12 degrees. If you need more, then you will need to get different extensions with rise (plus the mono plug-in) to get your hands higher. As far as reach goes, there’s no bike or front end out there that has better reach adjustment than the SC. With the mono bar micro adjustment and the various mounting options on the mono bar, pad wing, and pads..... the reach options are endless.

For stack, different stem and mono spacers are your only option. If you have electronic shifting, it’s much easier to change out mono spacers.

blog
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Crentist] [ In reply to ]
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Don’t know the answer to your main question, but what degree tilt are you looking for?

I switched over to the plug-in mono extension a couple years back. Made a big difference. You can get extensions that get your hands a lot higher and you can match that with some angled arm cups with that match your rise in hands. Would be a lot cheaper than trying to retrofit the tririg aerobars

Matt
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Chemist] [ In reply to ]
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Something a little high-handsy for experimentation. I'd guess in the 25-40 degree range, but that's a very uninformed guess. At the moment I'm using all of the tilt, but I'm 6'3" and lanky so my saddle to pads drop is quite steep and there's a sizeable gap between my hands and head, even if I turtle. Matt, do you have any pictures of your setup?
Last edited by: Crentist: Sep 27, 20 15:06
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Crentist] [ In reply to ]
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Crentist wrote:
I've been riding a 2018 SC for the last two years and have my position relatively dialed but am a little frustrated with the lack of adjustability in the frontend. Specifically I'd like tilt adjustment (beyond the very limited adjust with monobar) and easier rise/reach adjust. I'm considering a new bike for next year, but an alternative would be outfitting the SC with a new set of aerobar like the TriRig Alpha Ones: https://www.tririg.com/store.php?c=alphaone

Are aftermarket bars like these compatible with the SC, and has anyone done something similar? It's not exactly clear from TriRig or some quick googling. My guess is "no" due to the integrated frontend but I thought I'd ask here just in case and see if people had any alternatives. I'm aware of the mono extender which would allow different extensions but that's sort of a half measure in terms of what I'm hoping for.

Yes you can use aftermarket bars like Alpha One on your Speed Concept. You just need Trek’s special “Steerer Stub“ part which replaces your SC bar/stem and leaves you with a short 1-1/8” steerer tube.

--
TriRig.com
Last edited by: TriRig: Sep 27, 20 15:05
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Crentist] [ In reply to ]
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Attached a pic. Where I have it was my happy medium, but I could tilt it higher. The plug in with the 51 speedshop extensions for my hands up higher than the stock ones. I’ve got some aerocoach angles spacers that allow for the elbow cups to tilt more on top of what the built in tilt allows. They are not on there in the pic as they didn’t fit with the 51 speedshop cups (they did work with some profile design cups I had on there before). If you wanted to go with really high hands (ie mantis position) you could use some USE extensions as well as angled wedges from aerocoach or another place (or get arm cups themselves that are angled). Or, per Nick’s post above it looks like the Alpha X would in fact work which would allow you to tinker around a lot


Matt
Last edited by: Chemist: Sep 28, 20 8:36
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Chemist] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks all. Looks slick Matt. I think I'd want to go up a little higher, so maybe I'll start with the mono-extension adapter and some high-rising extensions rather than the new aerobars and see if that gets me what I'm looking for.
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Crentist] [ In reply to ]
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Crentist wrote:
I've been riding a 2018 SC for the last two years and have my position relatively dialed but am a little frustrated with the lack of adjustability in the frontend. Specifically I'd like tilt adjustment (beyond the very limited adjust with monobar) and easier rise/reach adjust. I'm considering a new bike for next year, but an alternative would be outfitting the SC with a new set of aerobar like the TriRig Alpha Ones: https://www.tririg.com/store.php?c=alphaone

Are aftermarket bars like these compatible with the SC, and has anyone done something similar? It's not exactly clear from TriRig or some quick googling. My guess is "no" due to the integrated frontend but I thought I'd ask here just in case and see if people had any alternatives. I'm aware of the mono extender which would allow different extensions but that's sort of a half measure in terms of what I'm hoping for.


There is a lot of adjustability in the front end of the Speed Concept, but the real question should be why you want more than 12 degrees? If it is for hand comfort, replacing your Mono Extension is the way to go. As stevej said, the Mono Plug-in is a good option since you can add third-party extensions to it if you're looking for something with a different angle for the hand holds.

Also, what frame size are you running and what stem or Mono Spacer do you have? You can always swap the stem or Mono Spacers out. The Mono Spacers would change the height of the pad and Mono Extension where the stem will change the height of those and the Base Bar.

Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Last edited by: Mitch@Trek: Sep 28, 20 14:28
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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I'm getting quite a bit of creaking from the cockpit on my SC. What should I use to get rid of the sound? Grease?

@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [cloy] [ In reply to ]
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cloy wrote:
I'm getting quite a bit of creaking from the cockpit on my SC. What should I use to get rid of the sound? Grease?

The cockpit of the SC is pretty easy to take apart. If it were me, I'd do a full disassembly of base bar / stem / extension, clean them all, clean threads of bolts, re-assemble everything to proper torque. Should be able to leave brakes and shifters in place. I don't think there is really anywhere that I'd put grease. Maybe Mitch has different thoughts though.
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [SBRcanuck] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks!

I've also notice the three bolts under the basebar are a pain in the ass to turn. Is the answer one of the ball-end hex wrenches? I'm using a standard hex set now and I'm terrified of stripping 'em out.

@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [cloy] [ In reply to ]
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cloy wrote:
Thanks!

I've also notice the three bolts under the basebar are a pain in the ass to turn. Is the answer one of the ball-end hex wrenches? I'm using a standard hex set now and I'm terrified of stripping 'em out.

Yup, I use one of those rounded hex wrenches to get into the back two screws, just be careful to not use an older worn out wrench that could round off the bolt.
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [SBRcanuck] [ In reply to ]
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Just out of curiosity, do those two "stem attachment bolts" that hold the fork to the frame (?) ever decide to just loosen up over time?

I recently swapped out stems. Took the bike to a local shop and they did the work for me because I was told that a stem swap on the speed concept isn't for the faint of heart. Sweet.

That was about two months ago. Since then, I've ridden the bike on the trainer and about 3x on the road, yesterday being the most recent. Well, I was descending, cruising around 35mph, and the front of the bike started to wobble. I thought it was a crosswind, but I checked it out anyway. Well, I could move the basebar laterally independent of the fork.

So, I did some roadside surgery, never having wrenched this bike before. I discovered that the two "stem attachment bolts" that should have been torqued to 10nm were torqued to about 3nm. I tightened 'em up and all of the remaining bolts in there, as well as finally getting the stem cover back on (which is a huge PITA if you have di2... any tips?).

Needless to say, is that a simple error on the bike shop's part (that could have killed me) or do those bolts just tend to back themselves out for two months time?

@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [cloy] [ In reply to ]
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Sounds like a LBS mistake. The only problem I have had after working on the stem/fork is the bearings going because they are so small. My older Madone has a conduit and no bearings. I have no idea why that's not in the SC. It's not like you are constantly turning the bars and fork.
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [cloy] [ In reply to ]
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That stuff -shouldn't- loosen up, but it happens, plus hard to say if it was torqued correctly from the LBS.

Not sure why your stem cover would be difficult to put on because of di2? Maybe the different sized stems change how difficult it is? I have a mid-far stem, no issues getting the cover on. The cover, as in the piece near the back held on by two screws, one on either side. I've also removed the 'removable' tab at the top that creates a spot for the di2 wires to come out to the junction box.
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Di2 self install [ In reply to ]
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Hi everybody, Im installing di2 on speed concept and ran into problem. After pulling out the derailleur cables I tried to run an etube wire down the chain stay from the rear derailleur to the bottom bracket area. I can't get the etube wire down the chain stay. It seems to hit a wall about 2ish inches in and won't go any further. Any idea about what's going on? Am I missing something? Thanks for your help.
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Re: Di2 self install [AndrewL] [ In reply to ]
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AndrewL wrote:
Hi everybody, Im installing di2 on speed concept and ran into problem. After pulling out the derailleur cables I tried to run an etube wire down the chain stay from the rear derailleur to the bottom bracket area. I can't get the etube wire down the chain stay. It seems to hit a wall about 2ish inches in and won't go any further. Any idea about what's going on? Am I missing something? Thanks for your help.

You'll prob have better luck by using a guide wire of some sort. Can you feed a cable all the way through? If yes, try attaching the end of the cable to the end of the wire with a small piece of tape and pull it through. There are a couple other tricks like that using cable housing and end caps you can see on YouTube. I ended up buying the Park di2 magnetic guide wire kit.
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Re: Di2 self install [SBRcanuck] [ In reply to ]
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I’m on a 2016 speed concept 7 that’s been upgraded over the years (if that makes any difference.) I was able to get an old brake wire through but nothing bigger, even with taping and guiding. What does the magnet kit do that manually fishing wires doesn’t? Running out of ideas, thanks for your help.
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Re: Di2 self install [AndrewL] [ In reply to ]
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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yep, well my worst fear happened. One of the three basebar bolts is rounded out. Best suggestion to get it out? Use a torx key to try to get it out? Bad to spray wd-40 in the spot before?

@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [cloy] [ In reply to ]
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cloy wrote:
yep, well my worst fear happened. One of the three basebar bolts is rounded out. Best suggestion to get it out? Use a torx key to try to get it out? Bad to spray wd-40 in the spot before?

Hmm...If the bolt heads were more exposed I'd say dremel cut a slot then use a flat screwdriver to unscrew it.. But where I think these are kind of recessed, it might be worth it to take it to a bike shop and let them figure it out.

Is it so rounded that you can't even get a normal alan wrench in it, one that is small enough to fit under the bar?
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [SBRcanuck] [ In reply to ]
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I can still get an allen key in there no problem, it's just that it's rounded out and won't grip.

@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [cloy] [ In reply to ]
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I used a torx key to get a stripped bolt out of the front brake cover last year. I used a small arts and crafts hammer to tap it in. Came out easily.
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Re: Cut Base Bars - NEW [CJHess] [ In reply to ]
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This is probably sacrilege, but anything wrong with going to the hardware store and picking up a replacement bolt (in lieu of paying $$$ for the whole "kit" that Trek sells)? It says it's an M6x20mm.

@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri
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