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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [BrentwoodTriGuy] [ In reply to ]
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BrentwoodTriGuy wrote:
I upgraded to Ultegra 8k Di2 on my 2014 SC and noticed that the wire that goes into the front derailleur swings out of the frame and rubs against the rear wheel.

Is there a simple solution for this besides trying to tape it down?

Same problem here. I pulled the wire back "inside" the frame.....pushing it in didn't work. Then to make sure I put a small piece of tape over it. The tape is red and my bike is black and red so it add a little dash of color that looks cool as a bonus.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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Hello Mitch,


I've been having issues with my rear brake, and decided to try to realign the bake pads. When I disassembled the brake pad carriers, I found that one of the cone washer used to secure de brake pad carrier to the brake assembly was broken. Is this cone washer availlable, or do I need to buy the complete brake pad carriers? Is the part number 433749?


I'm pretty sure my LBS won't have this in stock... Is it possible to use different brake pad carriers, say from a Ultegra set of brakes, while waiting for the good parts?



Thank you!
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [madmax231] [ In reply to ]
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madmax231 wrote:
Hello Mitch,


I've been having issues with my rear brake, and decided to try to realign the bake pads. When I disassembled the brake pad carriers, I found that one of the cone washer used to secure de brake pad carrier to the brake assembly was broken. Is this cone washer availlable, or do I need to buy the complete brake pad carriers? Is the part number 433749?


I'm pretty sure my LBS won't have this in stock... Is it possible to use different brake pad carriers, say from a Ultegra set of brakes, while waiting for the good parts?



Thank you!

I couldn't see any washers listed on their own, but you may be able to use the cone washer of a generic cheap brake pad holder. Your LBS may have extras too as my old shop carried tons of random bits.

What year Speed Concept is this on though?

Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes

Find me on Instagram & Twitter @mitchmathewz
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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It's a 2017 Speed Concept.


I had a couple cone washers in my spare box, but they didn't fit very well. Luckily, I stopped by the LBS this moring and they were able to help me (they found the proper washer in their spare bin).


Strangely, it seems like part 433749 is discontinued. Can you tell me what is the replacement part?


Thank you!
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [madmax231] [ In reply to ]
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I have a 2014 Project One SC. It has a seal to run a Campagnolo Ultra Torque crankset.

Is it possible to remove this? I’m really sick of being stuck with Campy. I read somewhere that the heat required to release the loctite used to adhere the seal would damage the paint? Would the removal of this seal also make the installation of a different crankset more problematic?

Thanks.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [turningscrews] [ In reply to ]
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turningscrews wrote:
I have a 2014 Project One SC. It has a seal to run a Campagnolo Ultra Torque crankset.

Is it possible to remove this? I’m really sick of being stuck with Campy. I read somewhere that the heat required to release the loctite used to adhere the seal would damage the paint? Would the removal of this seal also make the installation of a different crankset more problematic?

Thanks.

Just leave the crankset on if you are worried about the damage and replace everything else, the cranks will work fine with Shimano or Sram Groupset.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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Hey all, I have a 2018 SC (mechanical Ultegra) in size L, and looking back, I should have gone with the XL frame. At this point, after my position has evolved a bit, I'm on the high/far stem (with smallest spacer) with max reach on the bars (using the longer mono-bar), but especially this year I find myself wanting about another 1 - 2cm of reach. My understanding is I'm SOL as far as official Trek/Bont bars go. What are my best options for third-party? I wouldn't mind something with more vertical adjustment, either.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Crentist] [ In reply to ]
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I had a custom bridge made they gave me another centimeter and a half of reach. PM me if you're interested in the details
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Crentist] [ In reply to ]
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Crentist wrote:
Hey all, I have a 2018 SC (mechanical Ultegra) in size L, and looking back, I should have gone with the XL frame. At this point, after my position has evolved a bit, I'm on the high/far stem (with smallest spacer) with max reach on the bars (using the longer mono-bar), but especially this year I find myself wanting about another 1 - 2cm of reach. My understanding is I'm SOL as far as official Trek/Bont bars go. What are my best options for third-party? I wouldn't mind something with more vertical adjustment, either.


I wanted more reach too. Although I haven't installed it yet, the solution was to get one of these, that will then allow me to use longer extensions in it:

https://www.tririg.com/..._Concept_Accessories
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [madmax231] [ In reply to ]
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madmax231 wrote:
It's a 2017 Speed Concept.


I had a couple cone washers in my spare box, but they didn't fit very well. Luckily, I stopped by the LBS this moring and they were able to help me (they found the proper washer in their spare bin).


Strangely, it seems like part 433749 is discontinued. Can you tell me what is the replacement part?


Thank you!

Good to hear!

W507767 is the best pad holder replacement that would fit your bike.

Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes

Find me on Instagram & Twitter @mitchmathewz
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Crentist] [ In reply to ]
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Crentist wrote:
Hey all, I have a 2018 SC (mechanical Ultegra) in size L, and looking back, I should have gone with the XL frame. At this point, after my position has evolved a bit, I'm on the high/far stem (with smallest spacer) with max reach on the bars (using the longer mono-bar), but especially this year I find myself wanting about another 1 - 2cm of reach. My understanding is I'm SOL as far as official Trek/Bont bars go. What are my best options for third-party? I wouldn't mind something with more vertical adjustment, either.

Zipp carbon extensions and Profile Design extensions are the fan favorites from our engineers. I would suggest those brands when looking at aftermarket options to run with a Mono Plug-in.

Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes

Find me on Instagram & Twitter @mitchmathewz
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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I have a 2013 7.8 series (bb86?). I have a BB30 rotor 3d+ with a p2m power meter. (https://www.power2max.com/...r-3d-with-crank-set/)

What do I need to put this on my speed concept?

Instagram | floathammerholdon | BSC Multisport

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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [cloy] [ In reply to ]
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cloy wrote:
I have a 2013 7.8 series (bb86?). I have a BB30 rotor 3d+ with a p2m power meter. (https://www.power2max.com/...r-3d-with-crank-set/)

What do I need to put this on my speed concept?

Stock BB shell width is 86.5mm so you would just need a pressfit BB that is in that width and can fit a 30mm crank spindle.

The first that comes to mind is the SRAM DUB Road BB. Their part number is 00.6418.026.000 and Trek dealers use 586475.

Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes

Find me on Instagram & Twitter @mitchmathewz
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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I have a 2018 Trek SC. Aero bars continue to loosen during rides. After reading multiple posts online I am concerned about the bolts shearing when I'm on the bike and causing an accident.

Last week I had to stop and dismantle my aero set up and tighten the bolts as my arm pads and bars wobbling and not firmly attached to the bike. This is the second time that this has happened during a ride and a race.

Is there another aero bar set up that is compatible with this bike that I could replace it with? Or another way to solve this problem?
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [milesaway] [ In reply to ]
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milesaway wrote:
I have a 2018 Trek SC. Aero bars continue to loosen during rides. After reading multiple posts online I am concerned about the bolts shearing when I'm on the bike and causing an accident.

Last week I had to stop and dismantle my aero set up and tighten the bolts as my arm pads and bars wobbling and not firmly attached to the bike. This is the second time that this has happened during a ride and a race.

Is there another aero bar set up that is compatible with this bike that I could replace it with? Or another way to solve this problem?

Use loctite on the bolts and make sure they're properly torqued. Shouldn't happen if that is done.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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(reply to nothing in particular)

I have a 2016 SC, Di2. Right base bar lever has come loose. Like, really loose.

From what I can tell, I have to pull the brake cable out, then stick an allen key through the lever to tighten the expander. Could someone confirm that? More recent Di2 manual would suggest that,

If so, then the big question is: how much of a PITA is it going to be to put a new cable in? Not housing, just the inner cable. Shop told me it's very hard, but I'm having a hard time accepting that. New housing, yes I could see that. Just the cable? I mean, they don't last forever.

thanks for any help.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [BrianB] [ In reply to ]
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Run a secondary cable back then use that to pull it thru. It gets hard at the bars but not awful. I’ve done it many many times.

Look at where ur brake cable ends as well. The wedge can be challenging. Keep that straight when tightening.

Or..... just pay a shop.

http://www.TriScottsdale.org
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Sbernardi] [ In reply to ]
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Sbernardi wrote:
Run a secondary cable back then use that to pull it thru. It gets hard at the bars but not awful. I’ve done it many many times.

Look at where ur brake cable ends as well. The wedge can be challenging. Keep that straight when tightening.

Or..... just pay a shop.

Thanks. How do you attach the new cable to the secondary cable to pull it through? Seems like a good idea but not picturing how that would work. Super glue?

Shop says: we are so busy right now, there are 0 slots open.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [BrianB] [ In reply to ]
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Run from that shop. If they think putting in a new brake cable is hard, then they probably shouldn't be touching your bike.

Yes you are right. You need to remove the brake cable, tighten up the brake lever, then put in a new cable. Once you have the new cable fed through, put the wedge on before you cut the cable. I've had trouble getting the wedge on with an already cut cable. Overall, its not hard, just take your time and you'll learn how silly your LBS is being.

blog
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [tttiltheend] [ In reply to ]
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tttiltheend wrote:
milesaway wrote:
I have a 2018 Trek SC. Aero bars continue to loosen during rides. After reading multiple posts online I am concerned about the bolts shearing when I'm on the bike and causing an accident.

Last week I had to stop and dismantle my aero set up and tighten the bolts as my arm pads and bars wobbling and not firmly attached to the bike. This is the second time that this has happened during a ride and a race.

Is there another aero bar set up that is compatible with this bike that I could replace it with? Or another way to solve this problem?

Use loctite on the bolts and make sure they're properly torqued. Shouldn't happen if that is done.


Had the same issue Last weekend after riding a fairly rough road and was thinking Loctite to resolve. I always have some allen keys on hand so it wasn’t a big job to tighten on the road but I don't ned that in a race
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [stevej] [ In reply to ]
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stevej wrote:
Run from that shop. If they think putting in a new brake cable is hard, then they probably shouldn't be touching your bike.

Yes you are right. You need to remove the brake cable, tighten up the brake lever, then put in a new cable. Once you have the new cable fed through, put the wedge on before you cut the cable. I've had trouble getting the wedge on with an already cut cable. Overall, its not hard, just take your time and you'll learn how silly your LBS is being.

yeah I was kind of surprised. Normally they are not like that. And I think he must have been thinking "new housing" not "new cable". I will give them the benefit of the doubt

... and, ok, I am going to give it a shot. I always do stuff like this myself, just not on that bike before. Thanks for the input.
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [Mitch@Trek] [ In reply to ]
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Any way to prevent the rear brake wedge (2013 SC) from getting stuck and preventing the brake from opening all the way back up? Should I recable the brake cable again?

Instagram | floathammerholdon | BSC Multisport

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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [cloy] [ In reply to ]
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cloy wrote:
Any way to prevent the rear brake wedge (2013 SC) from getting stuck and preventing the brake from opening all the way back up? Should I recable the brake cable again?

Check your cable and housing for any bends preventing it from pulling back smoothly. You can also look to use a higher quality cable and housing set. Personally, I love the Teflon cables we used to make. These are replaced with a newer coated cable that would do the trick. Check for kinks in the handlebar/stem as well.

Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes

Find me on Instagram & Twitter @mitchmathewz
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [ In reply to ]
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Hey folks, looking for some advice on rear brake maintenance.
Purchased my frame last fall, and have been using it on the indoor trainer since.

Went to take it out for first road ride today, and noticed the rear brake wasn't re-opening on its own after pulling the brake lever.
Removed the speed fin to find that a lot of sweat had managed to trickle down into the caliper, large buildup of sweat/salt/gunk on the triangle wedge. Odd because I never had this happen on my first gen SC, which was also used indoors for years...

Anyway, cleaned it off, but I think maybe the cable is either gunked up a bit in the housing either near the caliper, or inside the brake leaver, as it still won't open quite all the way on its own.
I don't think it is a kink anywhere as it was working perfect when I initially set it up and put it on the trainer, where it has stayed the entire time until today.

OK, so, obviously I could replace the cable/housing (PIA..). But another question - the silver screw on the side of the caliper that seems to fine adjust the width, I have that unscrewed pretty much all the way to make room for my HED Jets. Is having that unscrewed also contributing to the calipers not having a strong return? Am I better off having that screwed in more, and instead shaving down the brake pads to make more room?

Any other tips to maintaining the Gen2 rear brake? Again, my first gen was problem free... :(

Thanks!!!
Last edited by: SBRcanuck: Jun 24, 20 9:41
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Re: Official Speed Concept Owners Thread [SBRcanuck] [ In reply to ]
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Quote:

OK, so, obviously I could replace the cable/housing (PIA..). But another question - the silver screw on the side of the caliper that seems to fine adjust the width, I have that unscrewed pretty much all the way to make room for my HED Jets. Is having that unscrewed also contributing to the calipers not having a strong return? Am I better off having that screwed in more, and instead shaving down the brake pads to make more room?

Any other tips to maintaining the Gen2 rear brake? Again, my first gen was problem free... :(


How is the front end looking? Reason I am asking is mine had issues in the actual cable housing junction between where the cable housing enters the frame and the front end. Basically, when you take off the plastic cover over the fork/steerer tube, unless you routed the bike in 1 shot (which I assume you didnt) you likely have a connection point where the housing enters the frame and you have a female-female connector. I found that due to it's location, it was prone to sweat getting in there and as a result, the cable itself started to rust (also dosn't help that there is a junction there so any coating will be stripped off eventually). You may have to replace the brake cable itself. Consider taking the front end apart and seeing if the cable has degraded, because this will make the brake cable stick. You may also want to check the brake wedge on the caliper itself and see if there is enough tension provided by the calipers to pull the cable back in; I found that the wire would sometimes snag and bending the wire to reduce opposing tension (ie. fighting the caliper) helped slightly to open the brakes more.

Not a Trek employee but I ran into the same issue with the screw as well, where I had it basically fully undone. No, mechanically it would not affect the spring action and resetting of the brake pads, but you can try to screw it in and maybe there is something getting caught or impeding the brakes? Unfortunately this is just a downside to the integrated brake design and one of the main reasons why I upgraded from my SC. But mechanically, the brakes should be fine. My guess is its the cable or something in the brakes itself. You could also consider pushing the brake wedge slightly higher than you normally would so it is constantly "under tension" by the calipers, which would help improve the release and reduce sticking, but I would think this would be more of a band-aid solution and if it is the brakes/cable itself, you would likely see the problem persist.

FWIW I would be meticulous on how I set my brakes up when I had the bike as it drove me crazy. Cleaned 1/2 times per year (deep clean), remove and re-grease entire brake assembly, I moved to Titanium screws on mine because of moisture getting locked in there, moving the wedge to be always under tension, bent the wire to allow for easier routing, etc.

Hope you figure it out!

Edit: I should note that I personally suspect its the front end junction. I ran it in Low Far setting and the whole front end area was TIGHT. Basically, you could barely fit the brake cable in the space and I had to literally break the stupid plastic cover to make it work. I think they might have improved the cover (or so I hear) so you may need to order a new one if its the old one, but this likely opened or exposed the brake cable to more wear and moisture and accelerated wear there. You might not have this issue if you run a different configuration. Also note that you may have more issues if you are running this in mech, as the area is so tight in that front end. Fast bike but has its downsides too
Last edited by: Aid.dre.an: Jun 24, 20 10:23
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