It fell out of the bottom of the headset. It looks very much like this: https://wheelsmfg.com/...ainer-3-16-x-15.html
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Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [cloy]
[ In reply to ]
cloy wrote:
It fell out of the bottom of the headset. It looks very much like this: https://wheelsmfg.com/...ainer-3-16-x-15.htmlOdd part. Sounds like that should have been your lower headset bearing. The measurement is 38x26x6.5mm for that lower bearing and part number 581410 for the current replacement from Cane Creek.
Double check your current headset to make sure it's all intact. Which 2013 model was yours?
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
I originally rode the 2.5, but after Trek came through and made good on a warranty claim, they upgraded me to a carbon 2013 7.8 series frame.
@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri
@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [cloy]
[ In reply to ]
cloy wrote:
I originally rode the 2.5, but after Trek came through and made good on a warranty claim, they upgraded me to a carbon 2013 7.8 series frame.Gotcha. Disregard the item number and bearing size I listed above then - that is the lower for a 9 series. You would want a 1-1/8" lower bearing - which if you are going to replace it, you may as well replace the top while you're at it. We have a kit which is part number W307396 for $37.99.
What I think happened is your lower bearing separated so the crown race of the bearing is still on your fork. You'll have to pull that off before installing a new lower bearing. Take a peek at the fork next time and you should see it (unless it also fell off). Once that is off, you can then attach your new lower bearing.
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Hi Mitch,
Regarding the discussion elsewhere on using Trek bikes on the trainer:
I read one of your comments to mean that Trek DOES provide warranty if the Trek bike is used CORRECTLY on the trainer.
I ride at gyms with Computrainers 3 times a week during the winter. Personally so far I have used my good old Trek 5200, but I bought a 2019 Trek Emonda SL recently and was planning to replace the 5200 with the Emonda (the 5200 being retired to my vacation place in Europe).
As a design engineer, looking at the dropout on the Emonda I can totally see how, if the design did not specifically address "rocking" stresses from the skewer in a trainer like the Computrainer, how you can overstress the carbon fiber section that we have seen snap for some users. It frankly looks undersized for trainer use (or crash involving the read derailleur).
So, what I would like is some very specific directions from Trek as to what is "CORRECT" computrainer use (rollers not an option)? The way I see it the user can control :
1. The skewer used and the amount of compression from the skewer
2. The compression from the trainer onto the skewer
3. The amount of lateral "rocking" applied from rider (standing etc).
If the above 3 items are within "Trek specifications", then any damage should be covered by warranty, even if Trek does not see any specific frame defects. Otherwise you are really not in a good place as a consumer. It seems like there might be "fix" with a skewer designed specifically for your frames, maybe with a controlled compression across a spring, maybe with a washer that would ensure proper bearing in the dropout area.
I look forward to your advice / directions as to items 1 to 3 above. Is there a specific skewer that you recommend? Cheers
Regarding the discussion elsewhere on using Trek bikes on the trainer:
I read one of your comments to mean that Trek DOES provide warranty if the Trek bike is used CORRECTLY on the trainer.
I ride at gyms with Computrainers 3 times a week during the winter. Personally so far I have used my good old Trek 5200, but I bought a 2019 Trek Emonda SL recently and was planning to replace the 5200 with the Emonda (the 5200 being retired to my vacation place in Europe).
As a design engineer, looking at the dropout on the Emonda I can totally see how, if the design did not specifically address "rocking" stresses from the skewer in a trainer like the Computrainer, how you can overstress the carbon fiber section that we have seen snap for some users. It frankly looks undersized for trainer use (or crash involving the read derailleur).
So, what I would like is some very specific directions from Trek as to what is "CORRECT" computrainer use (rollers not an option)? The way I see it the user can control :
1. The skewer used and the amount of compression from the skewer
2. The compression from the trainer onto the skewer
3. The amount of lateral "rocking" applied from rider (standing etc).
If the above 3 items are within "Trek specifications", then any damage should be covered by warranty, even if Trek does not see any specific frame defects. Otherwise you are really not in a good place as a consumer. It seems like there might be "fix" with a skewer designed specifically for your frames, maybe with a controlled compression across a spring, maybe with a washer that would ensure proper bearing in the dropout area.
I look forward to your advice / directions as to items 1 to 3 above. Is there a specific skewer that you recommend? Cheers
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [WhySwim]
[ In reply to ]
WhySwim wrote:
Hi Mitch, Regarding the discussion elsewhere on using Trek bikes on the trainer:
I read one of your comments to mean that Trek DOES provide warranty if the Trek bike is used CORRECTLY on the trainer.
I ride at gyms with Computrainers 3 times a week during the winter. Personally so far I have used my good old Trek 5200, but I bought a 2019 Trek Emonda SL recently and was planning to replace the 5200 with the Emonda (the 5200 being retired to my vacation place in Europe).
As a design engineer, looking at the dropout on the Emonda I can totally see how, if the design did not specifically address "rocking" stresses from the skewer in a trainer like the Computrainer, how you can overstress the carbon fiber section that we have seen snap for some users. It frankly looks undersized for trainer use (or crash involving the read derailleur).
So, what I would like is some very specific directions from Trek as to what is "CORRECT" computrainer use (rollers not an option)? The way I see it the user can control :
1. The skewer used and the amount of compression from the skewer
2. The compression from the trainer onto the skewer
3. The amount of lateral "rocking" applied from rider (standing etc).
If the above 3 items are within "Trek specifications", then any damage should be covered by warranty, even if Trek does not see any specific frame defects. Otherwise you are really not in a good place as a consumer. It seems like there might be "fix" with a skewer designed specifically for your frames, maybe with a controlled compression across a spring, maybe with a washer that would ensure proper bearing in the dropout area.
I look forward to your advice / directions as to items 1 to 3 above. Is there a specific skewer that you recommend? Cheers
To the 3 items you listed above, those are what riders should be considerate of and monitor. We provide some direction in our owners manual as well about this (visit "Chapter 1 > After every ride"):
http://www.bike-manual.com/...ek/om/road/index.htm
In the event that your bike is damaged on a trainer, regardless if the 3 items above are followed correctly, we will review it under a warranty claim to determine if it was a manufacturer defect. As for the skewer, you will want to use one that is specific for the trainer that is compatible with your bike.
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Thanks Mitch,
I think you mean the manual section "BEFORE Every Ride", no? In that section a skewer closure force of 12-45 pounds is advised. 12 seems quite low. I am guessing quite tight is much much better for trainer use. The Saris type skewers seems pretty standard for these types of trainers. I wish there would be a skewer for trainers with a hex or nut where it could truly be torque to a specification (given by the manufacturer).
My Emonda SL will not see a trainer, I will just buy another inexpensive trainer bike. Seems like the risk is all on the consumer so not comfortable with using a new expensive bike.
Regards.
Regarding the discussion elsewhere on using Trek bikes on the trainer:
I read one of your comments to mean that Trek DOES provide warranty if the Trek bike is used CORRECTLY on the trainer.
I ride at gyms with Computrainers 3 times a week during the winter. Personally so far I have used my good old Trek 5200, but I bought a 2019 Trek Emonda SL recently and was planning to replace the 5200 with the Emonda (the 5200 being retired to my vacation place in Europe).
As a design engineer, looking at the dropout on the Emonda I can totally see how, if the design did not specifically address "rocking" stresses from the skewer in a trainer like the Computrainer, how you can overstress the carbon fiber section that we have seen snap for some users. It frankly looks undersized for trainer use (or crash involving the read derailleur).
So, what I would like is some very specific directions from Trek as to what is "CORRECT" computrainer use (rollers not an option)? The way I see it the user can control :
1. The skewer used and the amount of compression from the skewer
2. The compression from the trainer onto the skewer
3. The amount of lateral "rocking" applied from rider (standing etc).
If the above 3 items are within "Trek specifications", then any damage should be covered by warranty, even if Trek does not see any specific frame defects. Otherwise you are really not in a good place as a consumer. It seems like there might be "fix" with a skewer designed specifically for your frames, maybe with a controlled compression across a spring, maybe with a washer that would ensure proper bearing in the dropout area.
I look forward to your advice / directions as to items 1 to 3 above. Is there a specific skewer that you recommend? Cheers
To the 3 items you listed above, those are what riders should be considerate of and monitor. We provide some direction in our owners manual as well about this (visit "Chapter 1 > After every ride"):
http://www.bike-manual.com/...ek/om/road/index.htm
In the event that your bike is damaged on a trainer, regardless if the 3 items above are followed correctly, we will review it under a warranty claim to determine if it was a manufacturer defect. As for the skewer, you will want to use one that is specific for the trainer that is compatible with your bike.
I think you mean the manual section "BEFORE Every Ride", no? In that section a skewer closure force of 12-45 pounds is advised. 12 seems quite low. I am guessing quite tight is much much better for trainer use. The Saris type skewers seems pretty standard for these types of trainers. I wish there would be a skewer for trainers with a hex or nut where it could truly be torque to a specification (given by the manufacturer).
My Emonda SL will not see a trainer, I will just buy another inexpensive trainer bike. Seems like the risk is all on the consumer so not comfortable with using a new expensive bike.
Regards.
Mitch@Trek wrote:
WhySwim wrote:
Hi Mitch, Regarding the discussion elsewhere on using Trek bikes on the trainer:
I read one of your comments to mean that Trek DOES provide warranty if the Trek bike is used CORRECTLY on the trainer.
I ride at gyms with Computrainers 3 times a week during the winter. Personally so far I have used my good old Trek 5200, but I bought a 2019 Trek Emonda SL recently and was planning to replace the 5200 with the Emonda (the 5200 being retired to my vacation place in Europe).
As a design engineer, looking at the dropout on the Emonda I can totally see how, if the design did not specifically address "rocking" stresses from the skewer in a trainer like the Computrainer, how you can overstress the carbon fiber section that we have seen snap for some users. It frankly looks undersized for trainer use (or crash involving the read derailleur).
So, what I would like is some very specific directions from Trek as to what is "CORRECT" computrainer use (rollers not an option)? The way I see it the user can control :
1. The skewer used and the amount of compression from the skewer
2. The compression from the trainer onto the skewer
3. The amount of lateral "rocking" applied from rider (standing etc).
If the above 3 items are within "Trek specifications", then any damage should be covered by warranty, even if Trek does not see any specific frame defects. Otherwise you are really not in a good place as a consumer. It seems like there might be "fix" with a skewer designed specifically for your frames, maybe with a controlled compression across a spring, maybe with a washer that would ensure proper bearing in the dropout area.
I look forward to your advice / directions as to items 1 to 3 above. Is there a specific skewer that you recommend? Cheers
To the 3 items you listed above, those are what riders should be considerate of and monitor. We provide some direction in our owners manual as well about this (visit "Chapter 1 > After every ride"):
http://www.bike-manual.com/...ek/om/road/index.htm
In the event that your bike is damaged on a trainer, regardless if the 3 items above are followed correctly, we will review it under a warranty claim to determine if it was a manufacturer defect. As for the skewer, you will want to use one that is specific for the trainer that is compatible with your bike.
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [WhySwim]
[ In reply to ]
WhySwim wrote:
Thanks Mitch, I think you mean the manual section "BEFORE Every Ride", no? In that section a skewer closure force of 12-45 pounds is advised. 12 seems quite low. I am guessing quite tight is much much better for trainer use. The Saris type skewers seems pretty standard for these types of trainers. I wish there would be a skewer for trainers with a hex or nut where it could truly be torque to a specification (given by the manufacturer).
My Emonda SL will not see a trainer, I will just buy another inexpensive trainer bike. Seems like the risk is all on the consumer so not comfortable with using a new expensive bike.
Regards.
Mitch@Trek wrote:
WhySwim wrote:
Hi Mitch, Regarding the discussion elsewhere on using Trek bikes on the trainer:
I read one of your comments to mean that Trek DOES provide warranty if the Trek bike is used CORRECTLY on the trainer.
I ride at gyms with Computrainers 3 times a week during the winter. Personally so far I have used my good old Trek 5200, but I bought a 2019 Trek Emonda SL recently and was planning to replace the 5200 with the Emonda (the 5200 being retired to my vacation place in Europe).
As a design engineer, looking at the dropout on the Emonda I can totally see how, if the design did not specifically address "rocking" stresses from the skewer in a trainer like the Computrainer, how you can overstress the carbon fiber section that we have seen snap for some users. It frankly looks undersized for trainer use (or crash involving the read derailleur).
So, what I would like is some very specific directions from Trek as to what is "CORRECT" computrainer use (rollers not an option)? The way I see it the user can control :
1. The skewer used and the amount of compression from the skewer
2. The compression from the trainer onto the skewer
3. The amount of lateral "rocking" applied from rider (standing etc).
If the above 3 items are within "Trek specifications", then any damage should be covered by warranty, even if Trek does not see any specific frame defects. Otherwise you are really not in a good place as a consumer. It seems like there might be "fix" with a skewer designed specifically for your frames, maybe with a controlled compression across a spring, maybe with a washer that would ensure proper bearing in the dropout area.
I look forward to your advice / directions as to items 1 to 3 above. Is there a specific skewer that you recommend? Cheers
To the 3 items you listed above, those are what riders should be considerate of and monitor. We provide some direction in our owners manual as well about this (visit "Chapter 1 > After every ride"):
http://www.bike-manual.com/...ek/om/road/index.htm
In the event that your bike is damaged on a trainer, regardless if the 3 items above are followed correctly, we will review it under a warranty claim to determine if it was a manufacturer defect. As for the skewer, you will want to use one that is specific for the trainer that is compatible with your bike.
It's listed there, but also a larger visual under "After every ride" like I mentioned.
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Mitch, wondering if you can help me understand the SC sizing with the various stems. I can't seem to find the old chart that cross referenced the frame sizes with the various stems showing the stack and reach.
Currently have a size large SC with the low near stem. I have the lowest riser for the Aerobars installed and even took out the spacer between the pad holder and the mono bar. I also have the base bar pulled all the way back in the slots.
So I cannot get any lower or less reach for the basebar. Trying to identify the proper stem if I went with a medium SC frame that would get me as close as possible to where I am in position that gives be the possibility to get just a bit lower or to bring the basebar back just a bit too.
Currently have a size large SC with the low near stem. I have the lowest riser for the Aerobars installed and even took out the spacer between the pad holder and the mono bar. I also have the base bar pulled all the way back in the slots.
So I cannot get any lower or less reach for the basebar. Trying to identify the proper stem if I went with a medium SC frame that would get me as close as possible to where I am in position that gives be the possibility to get just a bit lower or to bring the basebar back just a bit too.
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [ryans]
[ In reply to ]
ryans wrote:
.....I also have the base bar pulled all the way back in the slots. .
Could you describe what you mean? Doesn't the base bar simple bolt onto the stem via 3 or 4 fixed bolts? I don't think there is any fore/aft adjustment of the base bar, is there??
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [SBRcanuck]
[ In reply to ]
My Speed Concept is a 2018 model. My basebar bolts to the frame with three bolts that actually bolt into the riser above it and the basebar itself is sandwiched between the frame and the riser. The basebar has slots for those three bolts and can be slid fore and aft at least two inches. It is actually pretty nice. Allows you to make some slight change to your basebar reach independent of your aerobar reach.
Ryan
Ryan
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [ryans]
[ In reply to ]
https://docplayer.net/...ncept-fit-guide.html
Looks like you need to keep the low far stem and add a 35 mm mono spacer + pad wing spacer to get the same pad y on a medium. Then you need to consider pad x to see if you can make the medium work.
blog
Looks like you need to keep the low far stem and add a 35 mm mono spacer + pad wing spacer to get the same pad y on a medium. Then you need to consider pad x to see if you can make the medium work.
blog
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [stevej]
[ In reply to ]
Thanks for the comments. The pad X should be pretty easy to achieve based on the pads being adjustable on the cradle and the cradle having three mounting options on the aerobar (on the large mine is mounted in the middle set of holes). So, I have plenty of room to move out (or in) on the aerobars. Just on the large my limits are getting the basebar any shorter reach and any lower stack for the basebar or aerobars.
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [ryans]
[ In reply to ]
ryans wrote:
Thanks for the comments. The pad X should be pretty easy to achieve based on the pads being adjustable on the cradle and the cradle having three mounting options on the aerobar (on the large mine is mounted in the middle set of holes). So, I have plenty of room to move out (or in) on the aerobars. Just on the large my limits are getting the basebar any shorter reach and any lower stack for the basebar or aerobars.Hey sorry, I'm out of town for the holidays. Feel free to shoot me a message with your current setup and measurements as well as what you're trying to achieve. I'd be happy to work with you to figure out how we can get you better fit on the current setup or if you really need to move to another frame size.
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Hello. My question relates to changing the rear brake cable on a Domane from 2013. I wonder if you can help?
Given I can't get the cable to pass out of the top tube, I assume it is necessary to first remove the top tube cable stop. My 1st question is - how? The small bolt revealed by removing the short piece of housing fits a 2mm wrench however the bolt didn't turn (wrench did, though). A 2.5 mm allen wrench won't fit and my english allen wrenches don't seem to be the right size, either. 2nd Question - Is there a trick to getting the cable through without taking this part off? I'm not having luck guiding the cable with a magnet.
Aside - who writes the manuals for Trek bikes? The current Domane manual doesn't mention this part at all, it's shown in the Madone Brake Manual but the wrench size is not specified, and the cd that came with my bike is virtually devoid of useful info (the words brake cable stop appear in the torque spec topic but there's no picture or description of how to get the cable through). <Grumble, grumble>.
To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.
Given I can't get the cable to pass out of the top tube, I assume it is necessary to first remove the top tube cable stop. My 1st question is - how? The small bolt revealed by removing the short piece of housing fits a 2mm wrench however the bolt didn't turn (wrench did, though). A 2.5 mm allen wrench won't fit and my english allen wrenches don't seem to be the right size, either. 2nd Question - Is there a trick to getting the cable through without taking this part off? I'm not having luck guiding the cable with a magnet.
Aside - who writes the manuals for Trek bikes? The current Domane manual doesn't mention this part at all, it's shown in the Madone Brake Manual but the wrench size is not specified, and the cd that came with my bike is virtually devoid of useful info (the words brake cable stop appear in the torque spec topic but there's no picture or description of how to get the cable through). <Grumble, grumble>.
To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Tsunami]
[ In reply to ]
Tsunami wrote:
Hello. My question relates to changing the rear brake cable on a Domane from 2013. I wonder if you can help? Given I can't get the cable to pass out of the top tube, I assume it is necessary to first remove the top tube cable stop. My 1st question is - how? The small bolt revealed by removing the short piece of housing fits a 2mm wrench however the bolt didn't turn (wrench did, though). A 2.5 mm allen wrench won't fit and my english allen wrenches don't seem to be the right size, either. 2nd Question - Is there a trick to getting the cable through without taking this part off? I'm not having luck guiding the cable with a magnet.
Aside - who writes the manuals for Trek bikes? The current Domane manual doesn't mention this part at all, it's shown in the Madone Brake Manual but the wrench size is not specified, and the cd that came with my bike is virtually devoid of useful info (the words brake cable stop appear in the torque spec topic but there's no picture or description of how to get the cable through). <Grumble, grumble>.
It sounds like the bolt may be stripped perhaps, but make sure you are not using a ball headed hex tool, those tools loose their OD faster and may not fit right. Once you loosen the cable stop, use a hook tool or the hex tool to pull the cable guide out. From there, you can use the hex tool or a hook tool (easiest) to help guide your cable to the opening in the frame.
If you can't get the cable stop out, remove the guide from the front of the bike and run a dud cable through and tape it to the new cable to pull it through the frame. Without removing the cable guides, you have to work with a small hole that you just have to "fish" for. When "fishing", flip the bike upside down if you have it in a stand and push and twist the cable from the front of the bike until it reaches the cable guide on the back of the frame tube. This takes the most time but sometimes you just get lucky right away.
As for the manual, this one it's a little outdated so I am not sure of the exact sizing either. Some of the part numbers do not pull up so I would have to dig into this is you need me too. 2mm is what our earlier Emonda used so it should be the same on your Domane.
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Mitch@Trek wrote:
Tsunami wrote:
Hello. My question relates to changing the rear brake cable on a Domane from 2013. I wonder if you can help? Given I can't get the cable to pass out of the top tube, I assume it is necessary to first remove the top tube cable stop. My 1st question is - how? The small bolt revealed by removing the short piece of housing fits a 2mm wrench however the bolt didn't turn (wrench did, though). A 2.5 mm allen wrench won't fit and my english allen wrenches don't seem to be the right size, either. 2nd Question - Is there a trick to getting the cable through without taking this part off? I'm not having luck guiding the cable with a magnet.
Aside - who writes the manuals for Trek bikes? The current Domane manual doesn't mention this part at all, it's shown in the Madone Brake Manual but the wrench size is not specified, and the cd that came with my bike is virtually devoid of useful info (the words brake cable stop appear in the torque spec topic but there's no picture or description of how to get the cable through). <Grumble, grumble>.
It sounds like the bolt may be stripped perhaps, but make sure you are not using a ball headed hex tool, those tools loose their OD faster and may not fit right. Once you loosen the cable stop, use a hook tool or the hex tool to pull the cable guide out. From there, you can use the hex tool or a hook tool (easiest) to help guide your cable to the opening in the frame.
If you can't get the cable stop out, remove the guide from the front of the bike and run a dud cable through and tape it to the new cable to pull it through the frame. Without removing the cable guides, you have to work with a small hole that you just have to "fish" for. When "fishing", flip the bike upside down if you have it in a stand and push and twist the cable from the front of the bike until it reaches the cable guide on the back of the frame tube. This takes the most time but sometimes you just get lucky right away.
As for the manual, this one it's a little outdated so I am not sure of the exact sizing either. Some of the part numbers do not pull up so I would have to dig into this is you need me too. 2mm is what our earlier Emonda used so it should be the same on your Domane.
Hey! Thanks for the response. I had no idea the cable stop pulled out of the front of the bike. It seems a very tight fit so I didn't work it very hard as I figured it was glued / welded / not meant to come out. Is there a trick to removing that one? (Hopefully not requiring undoing a bolt from inside the headtube...)
To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Tsunami]
[ In reply to ]
Tsunami wrote:
Mitch@Trek wrote:
Tsunami wrote:
Hello. My question relates to changing the rear brake cable on a Domane from 2013. I wonder if you can help? Given I can't get the cable to pass out of the top tube, I assume it is necessary to first remove the top tube cable stop. My 1st question is - how? The small bolt revealed by removing the short piece of housing fits a 2mm wrench however the bolt didn't turn (wrench did, though). A 2.5 mm allen wrench won't fit and my english allen wrenches don't seem to be the right size, either. 2nd Question - Is there a trick to getting the cable through without taking this part off? I'm not having luck guiding the cable with a magnet.
Aside - who writes the manuals for Trek bikes? The current Domane manual doesn't mention this part at all, it's shown in the Madone Brake Manual but the wrench size is not specified, and the cd that came with my bike is virtually devoid of useful info (the words brake cable stop appear in the torque spec topic but there's no picture or description of how to get the cable through). <Grumble, grumble>.
It sounds like the bolt may be stripped perhaps, but make sure you are not using a ball headed hex tool, those tools loose their OD faster and may not fit right. Once you loosen the cable stop, use a hook tool or the hex tool to pull the cable guide out. From there, you can use the hex tool or a hook tool (easiest) to help guide your cable to the opening in the frame.
If you can't get the cable stop out, remove the guide from the front of the bike and run a dud cable through and tape it to the new cable to pull it through the frame. Without removing the cable guides, you have to work with a small hole that you just have to "fish" for. When "fishing", flip the bike upside down if you have it in a stand and push and twist the cable from the front of the bike until it reaches the cable guide on the back of the frame tube. This takes the most time but sometimes you just get lucky right away.
As for the manual, this one it's a little outdated so I am not sure of the exact sizing either. Some of the part numbers do not pull up so I would have to dig into this is you need me too. 2mm is what our earlier Emonda used so it should be the same on your Domane.
Hey! Thanks for the response. I had no idea the cable stop pulled out of the front of the bike. It seems a very tight fit so I didn't work it very hard as I figured it was glued / welded / not meant to come out. Is there a trick to removing that one? (Hopefully not requiring undoing a bolt from inside the headtube...)
If your model has the front cable stop that protrudes from the frame, it would stay on the frame. I would try working the rear stop first!
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
looking at the Checkpoint series of gravel bikes and curious given no project one available, can customers mix and match the setups. Asking because between the SL5 and SL6 is a price jump of $1300CAN and for that customer moves from:
- 105 to Ultegra
- alloy 17mm wide wheels to the paradigm 25mm wide wheels (can't tell if Paradigm are alloy or carbon. I assume alloy).
- different saddles
- different stems
Raising the question because SL5 wheels are a non-starter at 17mm wide and I would prefer a GRX crank to get to 48/31 setup with 11/34 on back to reduce larger jumps in gear ratios that would result in the 105 34/50 front crank.
just want to know what's possible here before I engage my LBS.
@rhyspencer
- 105 to Ultegra
- alloy 17mm wide wheels to the paradigm 25mm wide wheels (can't tell if Paradigm are alloy or carbon. I assume alloy).
- different saddles
- different stems
Raising the question because SL5 wheels are a non-starter at 17mm wide and I would prefer a GRX crank to get to 48/31 setup with 11/34 on back to reduce larger jumps in gear ratios that would result in the 105 34/50 front crank.
just want to know what's possible here before I engage my LBS.
@rhyspencer
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [rhys]
[ In reply to ]
rhys wrote:
looking at the Checkpoint series of gravel bikes and curious given no project one available, can customers mix and match the setups. Asking because between the SL5 and SL6 is a price jump of $1300CAN and for that customer moves from: - 105 to Ultegra
- alloy 17mm wide wheels to the paradigm 25mm wide wheels (can't tell if Paradigm are alloy or carbon. I assume alloy).
- different saddles
- different stems
Raising the question because SL5 wheels are a non-starter at 17mm wide and I would prefer a GRX crank to get to 48/31 setup with 11/34 on back to reduce larger jumps in gear ratios that would result in the 105 34/50 front crank.
just want to know what's possible here before I engage my LBS.
For bikes that we have shipped from our factory, they are already partially assembled and in their box so we wouldn't be able to mix and match parts. You can talk to your dealer however and see if there is anything they are able to do to help you create the build you want though!
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Hi Mitch, is there a way to raise the stack on the Speed Concept 10cm without changing the stem or spacer? Any arm pad spacers or anything else I’m not thinking of?
Thanks!
John
Thanks!
John
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Greenj5]
[ In reply to ]
Greenj5 wrote:
Hi Mitch, is there a way to raise the stack on the Speed Concept 10cm without changing the stem or spacer? Any arm pad spacers or anything else I’m not thinking of? Thanks!
John
If you're looking to increase the pad stack, the pad wing spacer would give you an added 5mm. Otherwise, you'd need to use the mono spacers which you can adjust up to 50mm (45mm spacer + 5mm pad wing spacer). The mono spacer will raise your mono extension and pad simultaneously.
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz
Re: Hey SlowTwitch - Trek Community Manager Here! [Mitch@Trek]
[ In reply to ]
Hi Mitch, just wondering why for the January Project One promotion (the one where Trek will cover the cost of a custom paint upgrade) excludes framesets? It just seems strange of Trek to incentivize customers to buy components / grouppos rather than just the frame since it is primarily a bike company rather than a component company.
Hopefully framesets can be included in similar such promotions in the future. Thanks.
Hopefully framesets can be included in similar such promotions in the future. Thanks.
seifufu wrote:
Hi Mitch, just wondering why for the January Project One promotion (the one where Trek will cover the cost of a custom paint upgrade) excludes framesets? It just seems strange of Trek to incentivize customers to buy components / grouppos rather than just the frame since it is primarily a bike company rather than a component company. Hopefully framesets can be included in similar such promotions in the future. Thanks.
While we make the frames, we technically sell the components as well. But we manufacture our own Bontrager components too. We would rather see complete bikes leave the factory vs framesets, partially why we don't include framesets for P1 promotions in the past either.
Mitchell Mathews | Community Manager | Trek Bikes | @mitchmathewz