It depends if I need to breathe going up hill. I have a pretty aggressive aero position, but live in a hilly place. I tend to ride the aero pads when going up hill as shown here. (Believe it or not... this is a hill i was climbing.)

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

not a half bad idea! thx alot !

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Jonathan, fellow triathlete

Anyone tried drilling the top plate for cabling from above as in the pic?

I'm thinking that as the gear cables comes from the extensions above, it would be a nicer route for them (I currently use Nokon to get the bend to the side). You would also get a better line of the wire in the stem as it do not have to do the 90º turn in the plastic guide inside. Should make for better shifting?!

Worth a little off-season project? :-)
(would although require re-routing the gear cables, ouch!)

I have a scott plasma 3 but the frame geometry of the cannondale slice rs as shown in your picture seems to be damn near perfect for my style. Nice bike! I need to switch.

No I havnt been I have seen the insides of the 2014 fork. Under that to cap is a different looking beast to the 2013 I assume you have. I don't see why you couldn't do it with the current fork but there is a different cable guide coming to sult the newer setup

I'm into the drilling thing on my wife's Slice RS as her short stem and tall aerobar position makes a lot of sharp bends. So far I'm experimenting with Nokon cables but it seems to me that the teflon tubing makes a lot of drag to the cable and I used plenty of oil :-) Right now, the RD doesn't work properly so the project is not finished yet.

Others that have experience with Nokon cables on the RS? I'm thinking about cutting the teflon tube to let the cable run "free" inside the down tube to decrease the amount of drag and the let it return to the teflon tube underneath the BB before entering the chain stay.

Now we're at the topic...

I consider the use of an alternative cable routing for the last part of the rear brake cable. It seems to me that the final sharp 90 degree bend that follows after the cable exits the flexible housing really increase the cable drag and consequently one need to put the brake arm springs on maximum tension as well as tighten down both adjustment set screws in order for the rear brake to release properly when the cable meet just a little bit of real life dust and grime.

I've been thinking about replacing that last section with Nokon cable or maybe a longer flexible noodle kind-a-thing similar to the one used on eg. the Shiv standard brakes. This could prevent the sharp bend, but I'm worried if that solution will but way to much tension on one of the brake arms, where the standard solution puts a 45/55 percentage? Can this make it impossible to center the brake and align when the brakepads touch the rim?

Any input?

Any news or comments on the 2014 RS lineup ???
I see they have new brakes ... Windshadow SI ... Has Anybody see these new brakes ??? Better than the old 2013 Brakes ??? Easier to work on or adjust ???
Tx sc

if this is true, i am going to ask my shop if i can switch these out... i am getting pretty tired of the '13 brakes. The rear one is behaving, but the front is still refusing to pull away from the rim after the brake is applied. I've sanded down the pads, so that it only needs to come off by 1mm... but too many times i'll get off the bike, spin the wheel and hear a rub. When the wheel is off, and the noodle off, each side has a lot of tension (to pull them 'out')... but somehow when the noodle is attached things slow down. Hard to explain, but certainly the most troubling aspect to the bike.

Edit... btw... given how proprietary this braking system is, I can't imagine there is a new brake. But I might be happy to find out otherwise.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Pave? Other self- wrenchers?

So.... In my travels to my IM event, my OEM SRAM TT brake levers were damaged. Nevermind, I wanted to upgrade to the Shimano DA Lever/Di2 shifters anyways...

So, i've completely striped down the bike, removed the aerobars, base bar, stem, crank... but the one thing i've 'lost' in the process is the brake cable housing inside the stem area that goes to the bottom bracket... So my question in the image below.... See #4... the 'internal HT guide'... Did this guide have the housings attached to it? i.e. for the FD, RD, RB?... (Of course in my case - Di2, it would have only been the RB... Btw, I think the terminology for this brake housing liner is a "seal liner" (?)... because it is NOT a typical 5mm brake housing).

So anyways... it is now flapping around inside the narrow/dark crevaces of the fork... What do I do next? Hmm... I can pull this brake housing out of the BB area, and then re-thread it from the bottom. But getting the housing cable to come up the down tube and turn up 45 degrees through the tiny #4 is kind of tricky!!

So. Questions.
a) was the skinny brake housing attached to the #4 guide?
b) what do we call this skinny brake housing, so that I can get some more of it? Teflon tubing? (see #7?)



Of course, I am hoping for a few of things out of this winter project. a) a new affinity towards the wrenching of this bike, b) improved brake performance, c) wonderful shifting from the bullhorns, and d) cleaned up cabling.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

SC? What did you end up doing? See above... I am in the same boat.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Ahh? Is this the liner http://www.bikesonline.com/...eejbwCFQtBQgodaVIAQQ

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Took the bike to the shop and figured it all out. I worked out that there isn't a sleeve for the down tube. And had to take the fork off to see the cable guide. Well, didn't want to stick around, so the bike is in even more pieces, but at least I think I know what I am doing! And... I got some of the tube liner.... So alls good.

And. I ordered me a Mtn bike. Yeah. (Scalpel 29 carbon 2)

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

I just bought a slice RS and I'm also having problems with the seat post slipping down can anyone give me a suggestion on how I can fix this if you had similar issues with the RS ??h

See above... you aren't the only one... PM maverick and see what he figured out. All i can say is make sure the angled cams are 'wedging out' correctly to be able to push the seatpost forward.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

TrisliceRs Thanks for the info.

Got the Harmin Vector pedals for my bday and the Vision Trimax crank arms are to big to fit the pedals. I'm now looking for crank options, but what kind of cranks fits the RS? You can't put an adapter in there because of the carbon/Di cables?

I thought that might happen... (And everyone was wondering why I went with the quarq elsa... which I am about to install...) You've searched for BB30 cranks? I wonder if the SLK BB-30's would fit... or the Cannondale Hollowgram?

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

I haven't really searched for anything, have no idea what i'm looking for :/ Will all bb30 cranks work?

If you have a Slice RS, you've got BB30...well, OK... I think they seem to be calling it a PF30 these days ... (press fit)

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

How can i post a picture of my vectors on my crank. I also ride a Slice RS ?

But do you have the Vision Trimax crank? Can't imagine how you've been able to get them installed correctly.

So basically I can buy any bb30 crank?

I have them on my Slice RS and I have the Vision crank but I only installed them a couple days ago my power output is down by 80 watts so I'm guessing myself on if its the Vector or me.

 
I have the Cannondale Hollowgram SiSL crank arms, black 172.5mm length crank on it.

a comment I haven't seen mentioned on the skinny seat post: Comfort. C'dale's marketing talks about it being for aerodynamics, but I bet if you talk with the engineering team, they'll say comfort. See the Velonews seatpost review, "Getting the most from your post" http://velonews.competitor.com/...rom-your-post_267560

I'll say this, aero seatposts may look cook, but they do not absorb vibration

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