Hot! So is the CAAD10 behind it.
Wanna swap?

Thanks and NO WAY, the CAAD10 is "built" the Slice RS is "bought", would be easier to replace the RS at the moment I think. The CAAD10 has the SRAM Red Blk groupo with the limited edition Cannondale Green highlights on it, Hollowgram crankset and a few other nice bits not to mention custom paint its 6.52kg with zipp 202's and 6.82kg with the clinchers I train on and with pedals, cages and garmin sensors. Not bad for an Alloy bike.

Chris

Not bad indeed. I used to have a CAAD10. Sold it to buy my Shiv. Really wish I still had it. I would love to build up one of the raw alloy framesets with standard Red, raw alloy Hollowgrams, raw alloy Thomson seatpost and stem and probably Zipp 101s to keep with the alloy theme. Dream bike.

Nice looking bikes, but I was expecting an Evo Blk, not a CAAD10.

Great looking bike, just....the seat post.

It looks like they built a beautiful bike and forgot that it needed a seat

Great looking bikes...enjoy!

---

Team Zoot Northeast

I've never gotten why the Highend Slice's have super tiny seat posts, where the mid level and entry level Slice's have beefy ones?

Gorgeous bike... so ugly it's beautiful.

What's the geometry like? From Slowman's superbike comparo it sounded like it was long, low and for short people, but the Cannondale's geo charts make it appear to be even taller/shorter than the regular Slice.

For some reason I highly doubt my wife will let me upgrade from my 2012 Slice.

You know you want one....

To the OP, great looking bikes!

Not sure about all the GEO do's n dont's But I can say this Im 190cm and all leg. I ride a 56cm CAAD10 with a 0' setback post. I basically have the legs of a 56cm and the torso of a 54cm. The CAAD10 fits me perfect, I used to ride a 2011 HiMod Slice that was a 56cm also (as per Cannondales own fit charts) I did however always feel it was to long but the 54cm Slice just felt to small under me.

This Slice RS is a 54cm which is basically the same as the old 56cm Slice. The stem is adjustable from 70mm to 120mm I have it at the shortest length and the basebar is approx 100mm lower then on my 56cm Slice (yes thats 100mm not a typo, its very very low and not adjustable height wise) the extensions can be raised up to 80mm but kinda looks...........well different when that high.

So far the bike fits me well and is super comfy. Handling is good, definatly different from the Slice but is super stable at speed its just at slow riding around a carpark kinda pace its seems a touch sketchy. It is however very comfy just like the Slice.

Hope this helps.

As a side note, not one person that has seen this bike in person and been able to touch and feel it has mentioned the look of the post. Yes its different but....... in the flesh it doesnt seem to stand out.

Chris

Took this today.

I can't be sure but I think I hate you a little bit.

Cool bike, I wouldn't say ugly, I think ''Modern'' or ''robotic''.

Where did they run the front brake cable?

---

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

Front brake cable comes right up through the open "steerer tube". Pretty sleek and very clean!

---

Alex Arman

Strava

Nice!

---

---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

Correct, all cables enter a cable junction ontop of the steerer tube, from this point there not seen again except for the rear derailer loop. Very neat, very fiddly :-)

last night i was in my LBS and i saw my first Slice. it really is amazing. from the front, the bike is paper thin. in fact, it is thin all the way around. its mind boggling. and, i can't believe i'm saying this, the seat post looks ok.

when i first saw the bike, it was the white and green model, the pic posted to this forum. it was horrorific. it made me cry. however, in person, in a color other than white & key-lime, it looks good.

for me, my concern would be fitting. it only has one bottle mount. that means that the seatpost would have to accommodate a gear bag under the seat (my Orbea does not) and i'd have to adapt to a bottle between the extensions. currently i use ski bends and a bottle won't fit. you could use a Torhans straw mount, but it would be a shame to put a bottle before that leading edge.

Would you say it's more "fiddly" than some of the other superbikes, like the Speed Concept or TM01?

I will be interested in the OP perspective. To me the Speed Concept is more "fiddly" than any bike (save maybe the P4). Working on it or adjusting it is just a royal PITA. The hidden brakes alone just suck. It looks like Cdale did a good job in hiding the brakes but making them easier to work on. I will be curious to see one in person. The LBS, which saw one at a show, says the stem and cable management is actually really easy to work with.

 I LOVE THIS BIKE!!!!! GOOD JOB CANNONDALE

FIDDLY, for us poor mechanics doing the intiall build, all you END USERS will have no dramas.

Ill say this, if you buy a SLICE RS get a Scicon bag so you can trabel without having to pull down the bike. If you needed to say, remove the bars to get it into a bag or box, youll need to recable all brake and gear mechs.

whoa. so if i was gonna fly, i would probably need to remove the bars, and that means I'd need to recable? thats kinda tough.

cuz i have this fantasy where someday I'd actually get to fly somewhere to race. ;-)

My 2013 Cannondale Slice RS Ultegra Di2 just arrived home. It did take a couple of days for the bike shop to set it up - it's fiddly. I didn't think of the traveling issues. I'd post pictures, but I am new to this forum, and don't know what the protocol is (i don't have my own site to link an image from - if someone has an FAQ, i'd enjoy that). I have always ridden 60cm Cannondale bikes, and this one is of course a 58cm. So far the fit looks good, with plenty of adjustment. More to follow...

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Nice routing on the front brake. Makes me want to drill a hole in the Argon18 E-118 fork & hide the front brake cable.

Dang...I have one on order. I hope my shows up soon. Enjoy yours!!!

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Badass bike.

Thanks for the replies.

I have since done a few klms on this bike and I'm liking it more and more. Even did a 4.5hr ride and a few 3hr rides. I'm very impressed with the ride compliance. Smooth as the old 2011 HiMod Slice I used to own. Still amazed at how low the front end is but doesn't seem to bother me once off and riding.

Has anyone got there Slice RS yet?

I've been thinking about this more, as it's what drives me nuts about the Argon18s...

Where is the stop for the front brake cable? If the housing somehow goes from the basebar to the inside of the fork, I'm having a hard time picturing how that TRP brake functions & where the housing/cable stop goes..

It's not a TRP Brake. It's Cannondale own brake. All cables run thru the head tube not to be seen again.

The blk inc bike has carbon brake arms the ultegra and ultegra di2 have alloy brake arms. I'll get a pic of the brake from behind so you can see how it works. Very simple yet clever design. Giveme a few hhours to get to the shop and set up and I'll post up a pic.

Front brake from behind. Showing small brake noodle coming from head tube



Cable exit on non drive side. If you were really keen you could cut the cable right on the bolt.



Cable entry above headtube

I checked out the Scicon site. Thanks! Which bag are you thinking? A soft bag --Travel plus triathlon? It looks like this allow the handlebars to stay on ...even the saddle... but remove the wheels...

http://www.sciconbags.com/...ravel-plus-triathlon

I can't figure out yet whether we need the frame, or if that's a good add on.

Or would an aero bar equiped tri bike fit in the AeroComfort 2.0 TSA bag without removing the bars...

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Looks like the designers did a great job and when it came to designing the seat post they gave it to the interns.

We use the Aero Comfort and bike will fit with seat and aero extensions still in place.

I've got the AeroComfort and my XL Shiv fits in pretty easily. I did have to loosen the stem faceplate and pivot the bars down as I have fairly long arms, but that didn't phase me too much. Depending on your cable routing, pivoting the bars down could be difficult, however.

I generally like Cannondales a lot, but I still have a hard time with the post and top of the seat tube.
I also wonder if the alu matt black vision front end would look better with the matt black frameset.
Nice bike, though.

Apologies - a little off topic... I have the older Cannondale Slice Hi-Mod. This was the top of the line one at the time of purchase, but is currently in the process of being warranted. Does anyone know how the Cannondale warranty process is (so far they've had my bike for three weeks) and if there is any opportunity to upgrade to the Slice RS (I know they still make the older frame too).

Ok, thanks! I like the look of that AeroComfort, especially the internal frame. I'll look at doing that one. The bar ends are adjustable lenghth (and Di2) so perhaps moving the bar ends in, or removing for the flight would be an option.



I think this is going to come down to your shop and your local rep.

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

I have been waiting almost2 YEARS for a replacement frame from Cannondale. I had a Hi Mod (cracked two) as well. I have been following this thread to see when others received their frame. I would stay on your shop/rep as much as you can.

Thanks for the reviews of the RS so far...

Two years??!! I was advised it would take up to two months (which I'm happy to wait as I have another TT bike). What is their excuse on delay?

Here are pics of my new Slice RS. I rode on the trainer last night, to begin to dial in the fit.

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

where's the battery for the shifters? chainstay?

The battery wheel fairing device. :-)

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Looks great! Did the shop leave the Di2 junction box out in anticipation of the shifter/brake levers coming out later this spring (which require a different junction box)?

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Yes, that's exactly right. I am waiting for those TT brake lever/Di2 shifters. I first heard that Dura Ace and Ultegra were going to be 'merged' to one "TT brake lever/Di2 shifter" offering sharing the same new Ultegra wiring connections. My local bike shop says late Feb, and "only available in DA"... for $500 msrp!!!!!! (gulp!).... once that comes and is installed, perhaps things will clean up.

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Very nice! I like the red stripe down the middle of the top tube and down tube. So much so that I like it more than the matte black

Nice. Di2 bike looks great awesome graphics. Really works well.

I notice no risers on the extensions........ you must be flexible. .. great work.

I didn't like the vision graphics on the chainring against the matte blk frame so here's what I did.

The big question is though do I leave the green C or not?

Well, now that I got on the bike, the saddle had to go up a lot, and I've added one set of 20mm risers. I am going out to ride now - there is still quite a drop!

Hmm... temperature only 22 degrees. We'll see.

One minor snag... The brake shoes on the bike are shorter than the Grey Swiss Stop pads that came with my 2012 Zipp 404 Firecrest wheels. I'll have to see if Swiss make a Zipp compatible short pad. (Interestingly enough, the front pads are 5cm - i.e. normal, but the back pads are shorter - i.e. 4cm)...

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

looks like they finally got rid of the stupid seat adjustment design that the previous slice had. Ive never encountered such a difficult task just to change the tilt of the seat. ive never understood the thought process behind it.

I just cut my rear swisstop pads down to fit. No dramas.

Enjoy the ride. ..

Since I like the frame very much (for TT's) what aerobar options are there on the menu apart from USE R1? The stock aerobar puts me off, really, we need FLAT BULL HORNS and THIN BARS! The whole frame is thin-ish!

The original Ventus would look very nice on there if it could be refinished in the same matte paint.

Anything will fit the stem. It's a normal oversized mount. so if you have a combo in mind it's a real good chance of fitting.

First ride out this weekend was great. Bike was great at speed... but, I've not ridden in a month, so the bike wasn't the limiting factor. Three adjustments I made after the ride, 1) I put a third 20mm riser on the front end (too much staring at the pavement), 2) I moved the seat back 1cm to give myself a little more room between the elbows and knees... And 3) I'll save the 11-23 for race day, and give myself the 12-25 back for the hilly training ride we do... :-)

Can we re-title this thread to become the "Official Cannondale Slice RS" Thread? Or will that come next? (Feeling kind of left out on the official thread.)

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Agree. Do I as the OP do that or is that admin issue.

Think I worked it out.

Now get some questions coming. Pics posted etc.

Just found this thread http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...=slice%20rs;#4348835

Has anyone seen or heard anymore on test data?

Few more Slice RS pics from Aus

Awesome build - but I just can't get over the seat post. Fix the seat post and I'd definitely upgrade my old Slice.

Make it prettier and slower? ;-)

C'dale looks really nice. However the one thing I can't get over is the seat post 'look'. these bikes cost something close to $10k for race kit, could they not visually blend the lines a little better than the prototype look? I have(had) same issue with the P4, just does not look right for the money. Now the P5 and BH Aero are on the right track.

Once this has crossed into the "official" thread, the seat post comments can go elsewhere. :-) This is now a thread for owners and would-be owners to find out more about the bike, share best practices, show your ride (committed to the full "look" and all) and answer questions for folks interested in optimizing or riding faster on this bike! If you don't like the bike, I (we owners) have made my peace with you, and you should have made your peace with yourself (without having to let us know)... but then go buy something else. (Maybe we need an "Official Cannondale Slice RS Seat Post Rant thread" to channel and capture all the idol banter. The critique is already well documented.)

As for my setup. 808's on the way. Should be here by next weekend. (Along with the snow).

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

OK, I understand. I will bow out of this forum and not mention the seat post again.

Although, I just notices the person two/three posts above who also took exception to post as well. So I will let others address issue in the future.

Of note, I still ride my C'dale model year 2000, R1000 road bike. Cannondale for sure builds good quality stuff, that seat post just hurts my eyes.

Have just managed to fit some SRAM TT adjustable 990 brake levers. Although the black inc edition is pictured in the catalog with these they shipped with the alloy levers. I now know why. The vision carbon basebar has internal cable routing and doesn't allow for the cable to run thru the centre into the lever. Not to mention the bars have a smaller internal diameter then the brake levers. But....... after some lets call it modifications. They are now installed making wheel swaps much more easier.

Seatpost aside- I do think the Matte Black finish and 808's that it's an awesome looking bike. I have an '09 Slice - and having issues with it at the minute (several Cannondale staff and bike mechanics said it has a crack in the frame - but Cannondale are rejecting this) and so would be reluctant to think about a Cannondale again. Definitely think when you are spending so much on a bike the after market support is critical (I love hearing the great stories that Trek and Cervelo people have on this forum). Hopefully Cannondale lift their game.

In Australia thru our shop we have never had a frame rejected. Nothing but over and above expected service with Cannondale Aus. Sorry to hear you guys have trouble over your way.

Are you in Melbourne?? The dealer I took the bike to was very confident it would be replaced quite easily. I find it very amazing that they will assess the bike from a photo when there have been multiple mechanics that assessed it in person... Obviously feel quite disappointed by the whole chain of events...

No mate. We are on the Gold Coast. Qld.

Any guesses on whether the upcoming Shimano DA Di2 TT lever/shifters will work?

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

I really like the bike and wish it would be included in some of the more comprhensive aero tests. Not fond of the look of the seat post, but I bet its the most aero out their. The seat tube has to be fairly massive for various aero and engineering reasons (shield the rear wheel, support BB, etc.)

But the seat post can be much smaller and for any given shape a smaller version will be faster than a bigger one. So you are stuck with using a SP the same size of the seat tube, which looks nice, or using a small one which is fast.

---

Styrrell

On the ultegra Di2 bike. My guess is the new Di2 levers will be fine. As one it runs a different Alloy baseboard and the SRAM 990 brake levers come standard and fit perfect with no mods needed.

Dang, and I thought I had an excuse to upgrade to the Trimax Carbon Base Bars :-)... (which btw I am suprised this Di2 bike doesn't come with)... How much $$ is worth spending to drop 54grams. :-)

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

A reply to my self-->> THIS IS THE DEAL I WAS LOOKING FOR!! ( all thumbs up, from my side)

http://cycling-passion.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Cannondale-Team-Bikes-2013.jpg


The New CANNONDALE PRO TEAM (ex-Liquigas) machines!!

(a bit of humour, please) A sugestion to change the Forum Title " GOT-OVER THE SEAT POST- OFFICIAL CANNONDALE SLICE RS THREAD....:)

dmorris (Cloudburst Summit)Post #5 of 5 (170 views)Nov 15, 12 11:31Re: Slice RS windtunnel data? [Givingchase] [In reply to]Quote | Reply

---

I saw a preliminary release of a yaw sweep from 0-20 degrees of the RS vs the P4, Shiv, and Speed Concept. The RS was 40-75 grams better across the board compared to the P4. Up against the Shiv and SC, the RS was about 40 grams ahead at 0 degrees, had a 20-30 gram lead at 5 degrees, lost by 50-75 grams at 10 and 15 degrees, and was once again ahead at 20 degrees. Sorry, that was all I was able to remember to write down after seeing it.

I didn't see anything about the tunnel setup, protocol, etc. From what it looked like, Cannondale is preparing to release something along the lines of a white paper at some point, but I don't have any info on when that would be.

---

Keswick Cycle

The new Vision aerobars on the team issue Slice RS fit nicely with the frame. Narrow is aero :)

I agree with the Maxime "Narrow is Aero"- but i'd add " Only for the Fast Ones!" !
(since the Yaw, or angle of Incidence is LOW)

Indeed. To earn myself a Slice RS I need to get hella faster ;)

I ordered my Slice RS back in August. Was supposed to be here in NOV. Getting ready to pull the plug and order a SHIV. Was really looking forward to the Slice, but can't wait any longer...

I ordered mine in July.... It came the day after Christmas! I agree, I can't believe the wait, or understand why they wouldn't be cranking more of these out. What does your shop say? Do they have an eta?

I have a Di2 in stock and am riding my blk inc. What size are you? Where are you from?

Did you find carbon specific pads for the rear brake? I just realized the pads for the rear brake aren't normal Shimano fit brake pads. Thanks!

-ete

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

If that's a Hed Stinger Disc, how did you get the rear brake to work with the wider rims? Thanks!

-Pete

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Rear brake works with my ZIPP 808 fiercrest perfectly and there a very wide rim. I used Shimano fitment Swisstop pads with the tail cut down a bit. Although the blk inc bike comes standard with ZIPP cork pads.

I had ordered a medium black with red.

My shop in GA talks with the rep once a week and I still don't have a delivery date

The shop said that Cannondale should soon have the shorter carbon specific pads available for order...

Really sorry to hear of your delay. But keep waiting. Awesome bike. ...... if it fits you.

For anyone who has wider rim wheels (eg, the newer Hed Stingers), I got the brakes to work with them tonight. There are 4 spacers for each brake pad. I used slimmer carbon brakes pads (eg, KoolStops) and a couple of spacers and now the brakes work great with the Heds. You might also need to play with not only cable length, but also spring tension. I can understand why this bike isn't easy to wrench. I have lots of experience with weird Tektro brakes, which helped me figure out these.

I did my first race on my Slice RS on Sunday. Far from my ideal position, but I was impressed with the handling. Much better than I would have thought for a bike with no steerer...:)

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Correct. And I think you'll find the bikes come with a shorter T bolt if you remove a few spacers in and around the brake pads.. I have my one running firecrest rims and another waiting for delivery running the t42 vision rims (much narrower) both function great.

Just curious what everyone's Slice RS's are weighing in at. I understand this isn't the lightest frameset, but a little shocked when mine came in at 9kgs. That's pretty much stock Di2 with Hed Stinger PT Disc and a Stinger 9 front. I'm used to my TT bikes being 18-19 lbs. with race wheels, so this seems heavy to me. Then again, on a flat course, aero matters the most...:)

BTW, I think I could drop weight with the basebar and crankset.

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Can't help with the rest of the bike, but if its ULT Di2, that, and the wheels are all pretty heavy. Fast but heavy.

---

Styrrell

Blk edition is listed as 7.6kg mine is 8.2kg with pedals and cages etc.

Here is a Di2 we have sold waiting for delivery

That's a cracking looking bike in green and white. It's prompted me to look at the Cannondale site. Really nice to see a geometry table which includes pad stack and reach highest/lowest and shortest/longest values.

Thanks Zipp, for including the valve extension in the kit with the new 808's! Right after I spend whole evenings researching the best way to deal with the lack of 100mm valved tubes. Here's the Di2 with 808's. And enough spacers to make me look like Wiggins. I got a fit the other day, and this still puts me in a pretty low position (back angle around 19%).

Secteur, I'll have to refresh your instructions on moving the washers on the brakes to the outside (or removing them altogether...), I definitely need more space with these wider wheels. That's going to take a little more time than I had today.

I'll get some pics in the morning. Raced a long course 2/80/20 on the weekend. Had a great ride on the Slice RS and a consistent solid run (for me) bike is amazingly smooth and compliment.

Anyone know of any special deals/discounts currently being offered on the bike? Also, would it be possible to order a white/green frame instead of the white/black and matte black?
Thanks

Not sure where you live...but the sports basement in the SF Bay-Area carries them. You can use their 20% coupon that gets handed out now and then. Brings the cost to $4000 before taxes (I believe)

Thanks for the info! I live in tucson, arizona so hopefully I can find a similar deal, if not I'll give the SF Bay Area a call.

Trislicers.

Here is a pic of my brake setup with the firecrest 808's it's a touch dusty after last weekend's race. But you should get the idea.



The white and green paint job is a custom finish. Not a factory finish.

Is anyone else having delays getting your Slice RS? I ordered mine in early Dec and it has been delayed 5 times since. The next shipment date is March 3, but i'm sure that will get pushed back again. Just curious if anyone else is having these issues.

For anyone routing Di2 cables, here is a photo of my BB shell. The SRAM/Truvativ PF30 shell won't fit with the cable guide. You need to use the FSA BBs or the Cannondale SRM versions. I swapped bars, and learned to route the Di2 cable from the bars and the battery cable through the cable guide. I managed to cram all of the other cables and Di2 junction box in the seat stays and down tube. You need to be careful with the routing, since it's hard to fit a shell in this space, and you don't want the spindle rubbing against the wires. There shouldn't be any issues with standard Shimano/SRAM mechanical shifters.



The mechanic, Candy, at Bike Religion in Newport Beach did an amazing job at putting this bike together. I have 10 years of wrenching under my belt, but couldn't have done what I did without his initial work. I'm very impressed with the Cannondale build for this bike. I've raced it twice with the stock Vision bars and can't wait to try it out with my new fit specs/

-Pete

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

So... I am lucky enough to have got mine... But I put my deposit down in July, and it arrived the day after Christmas. I got updates (I.e. new ship dates) every 2-3 weeks. Not sure what is up with this bike, or Cannondale. My LBS did great. Keep the faith! Or fly to Oz, and pick up Pave's Di2!

Apologies if this has been posted already, but does anyone have weights for all the SLICE RS models?

Slice RS Sram Red Black

Slice RS Ultegra DI2

Slice RS Mech Ultegra

Offical weight list from Cannondale

In saying it my 54cm blk inc slice rs weighs 8.2 with pedals garmin and cages.

Thanks Secteur.

Heavier than I wud have thought.

Yes but you cant feel it on the road. My CAAD10 at the moment in race trim (6.38kg) on a technical and hilly first half of a 14.5klm local club tri is still slower then my Slice RS.

Its the frames though. I saw some weights from Cannondale that had the Slice RS at I think from memory around 1650g for the blk inc frameset where as the Slice is 1250g in saying that a frame is static weight not rotating weight so dont stress to much. My CAAD10 after its custom repaint is 1380g yet built into a light bike. the components make a large percentage of the total weight.

On the road the bike IS FAST if it fits you......

Update on my SliceRS Ultegra Di2... First ride this weekend following my fit, and raising the front end. I did a wonderful 54mile/87k ride! Feels great and super comfortable. Fast. Fast. Fast!

So my apologies for being new (please don't haze me!), and if there is a thread about this already or this doesn't belong here, my apologies again. This was the only discussion thread about the Slice RS that I ran across in my searches.

But I have a question about the Cannondale Slice RS seat post. Not about it's look. I actually kind of like it because it's unique. It turns people's heads and makes them do a double take. I think that's a good thing. But I own the Cannondale Slice RS Hi-MOD (not the DI2 version). I have had it for about a month, and I was wondering if anyone else is having issues with the seat post slipping down and not staying at the proper height? I rode 80 miles today and stopped 4 times to pull the seat post back up to proper height. I have been having this issues for basically the entire time that I've owned it, though it took me a few weeks to notice that I was actually sitting lower than I should've been (was drastically losing power!)

Anyone have this issue? Am I the only one?

Cheers!

We don't have a frame size do we? My 2010 Slice Hi Mod 58cm with Sram Red, Zip 404, Syntace bars, Cannondale cranks, time pedals, comes in a 17lb, 8 ounces size 58cm.

Cant speak for everyone but no I dont have that issue. I just completed IM MELBOURNE on the weekend with no dramas.

Bike was awesome

Here is a pic in race kit from my last training session

looking fast!
How was the race?

Very Windy lol.

I enjoyed it though. Was my first IM so im happy to have achieved my goals.

ahhh. That's good then!
What wheels are those? Zipp 808 FC's?

Yep 808 FC with the Cannondale OEM green graphic.

Anybody have the electronic ultegra version and build it yet? Guy I'm working with is having a hard time with the junctions etc.. Says the cable version is ok but instructions for e version are lacking and has given up for now

Youd probably benefit greatly from trying out a different saddle. The lower half of your torso/hips is pointing nearly straight up because it seems the saddle isnt allowing you to roll your hips forward. Which is causing a funky bend in the middle of your back. If you could get those hips to roll forward more, you'd then be able to comfortably drop your bars a bit more as well.

Nice bike BTW. Oh, and how do you like those meles? Been looking at picking up a pair.

---

"One Line Robert"

Mine was built by my local bike shop.... I admit it took them a few days extra, but they did figure it out... Pete (above) may have more insight.

@Pave, nice Melbourne race! Great pics. Btw, You need to eat more!

I haven't had an issue, I just remeasured yesterday, and put a small marker line to monitor. I did notice that the cam used to tighten has quite a bit of slack to take up when tightening. The assembly is two wedges that compress together, so tighten away. Good luck.

Excellent comments on this thread so far ...
I would love to hear any comments from ST'ers that have taken the RS on a plane ... Ie packed it in a bike box.
Were you able to disconnect the bars and twist them enuff to fit into a standard bike box (like Bike Pro) ... Or is the only option to disconnect the cables and recable post flight ... Which is a major pain in the ass :-(((
Tx for replying
sc

Why is recabling a pain. On my bike (not the same at all, though) I can undo the bolts that clamp the cables to the brakes and derailleurs, pull all of them, housing and all out of the bike and just push them in and reclamp in the same place. I might then have to make a slight RD adjuster turrn but not normally. I don't really have to do this to pack mine but its just easier to do than to try and deal withthe tangle of attached cables.

---

Styrrell

With a standard road bike or an easier TT set up I would agree ...
With hidden cables, hidden brakes, integration up the ting yang and electronic shifting I surmise it may be a hassle but not unmanageable.
I havent received my RS yet so this is all speculation ... Just wanted to get real world input from ST'ers who have flown with their bike.
SC

Mine is a felt, so the hidden cables and rear brake applied. The front shouldnt be a big deals to leave on the bike and just put the bars near it.

The big issue is with a felt you just push the housing through the hole in the toptube and it exits in the proper place. Not all bike are like that and a lot of finish.

I would think that electronic would make it easier to plug and unplug.

---

Styrrell

I just flew to melbourne with mine in a scicon aero comfort bike bag. No problems at all. I did angle the sram r2c shifters down and remove the rear derailer as a precaution but otherwise all good. No dramas at all. Trying to fit it into a standard cardboard bike box...... no way not for me. I like to have my bike perfect then itgoes from the work stand to the bike bag. Less stress when I get to the race.

Thanks also for the tips re position. Ive tried different saddles over the years on different bikes and never got my hips to roll forward I think its due to a back injury/accident I had when younger. Although I dont LOOK textbook I am comfortable well as comfy as you can be for 180k :-)

Honestly I bought them only for the colour. They are okay nice and light. I have mavic for my road bike I think they are awesome. The mele just seem a touch flimsy compared to other shoes ive had and are a touch small compared to the mavic. There not at all a bad shoe. But next set will be the mavic tri shoe I think.

Eitheryway the bars on the RS dont turn past say 50' (this is a guess) but they dont turn like a bike with a conventional steerer tube/headstem setup so you would need to remove the bars from the stem completely to get them to pack next to the frame. If you were running the stem at its longest and if you had something like 60/80mm of risers under the extensions you MAY have enough cabling to do it. I cant on my bike but Id be lucky to have about two inches of exposed outer cabling and the brake cable inners are cut real short after the pinch bolt. This is why I chose the scicon aero comfort. Easy.

what size is your bike?

54cm with stem at its shortest length and 20mm of risers under extensions.

would anyone in the loop with Cannondale know about the bars that C'dale Pro Cycling are using on their Slice RS bikes? Branded as Vision but looks very proprietary.

Has anyone changed their base bars on the slice? The bend at the end by the brakes killing my wrists when i ride. I rode my buddy's Trek concept around the block and the bontragers on there were so comfy. I know you should be in aero as much as possible, but i ride hills frequently that don't allow for aero position. Any suggestions?

I havnt changed my bars but its easy its a standard size bar/stem mount is it 31.x mm so pretty much anything out there will fit .

I switched to the Zipp Vuka Alumina base bar and extensions. They have more adjustability than the Vision bars.

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

you went with the 54 cm.. what have you ridden in other TT bikes? I rode a 54 cervelo. Sizing seems similar but maybe a 52 would be a consieration. seems the adjustability of the stem on the slice rs allows for a good amount of flexibility.

In TT bikes I had a 56 himod slice from 2011 I'm a medium BH GCAero and yes I had the 54 slice rs. I have since had a client come in and by my blk inc slice rs so am currently in the process of ordering/building a new bike (yes it is a slice rs) I'm considering going up a size as it will raise the base bar 20mm yet only lengthen the reach by 10-15mm. Stay tuned for pics as this bike comes together. I'm thinking a little bit custom not one of the models from the brochure. ..........

Thanks.. Did you like the ride?

Absolutely that's why I'm building another one. Ride is super smooth and very compliant.

Please can you let me know what you get 'in the box;' with a RS Slice?
I am having mine built now and my shop told me that the different length stems are 'extra' and don't come in the box, is this right?
Thanks for your help.

---

http://www.gsterb.wordpress.com

i got four extra 'stems' of different lengths with mine, and a dozen spacers for raising the clip ons....

No that is not right. You get all thestem spacers to make it from 80mm to 120mm and aero extension risers for up to 80mm you also get two different length T bolts for the brake pads depending on the width of rim you will be using. Its a big box of spares.

Thanks for this... I am planning to switch over to the 808's soon, and will dig into the spares to find those bolts. Also. Do you remove the crank when messing with the rear brakes? I got to get quicker at doing that, and making sure I have all the tools.

Yes cranks come out but that's easy. Basically the bikes come as a frame with the forks on, the rear wheel and rear derailer the rest is in a big parts box.

ok... So checking the spares, it was a total of four stems, including the one on the bike. Pave, I assume these small silver t bolts are what you mentioned.

Thats them

Some of you may know that my beloved Cannondale Slice RS Black Inc was sold to a client a few weeks ago..... oh well thats the fun of being involved in a shop that sells Cannondale. Please dont worry LOL I am in the process of piecing together another but this time not out of the brouchure. I will of course share pics when its ready to roll. In the meantime the new owner of has sent me some pics of the mods he has made including new wheels and rotor rings and I thought you may like a look.



[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsff4c8d1b.jpg.html][/url]

I just picked up my Slice RS today but I am missing parts.. I am rebuilding with my parts, and selling my older Slice..

When I unboxed it, I discovered I am missing the wedge to hold the seatpost in the frame, and also missing all the stem extension units.. the only one I have is the 40mm one and it was installed already in the bike.. so I can't even go for a 80mm length as the bolts arent there!!

I am assuming that the stem extensions from 0 upto 40mm were all supposed to be included with the associated hardware???

Thanks

Sorry to hear that. But yes every bike I have built had come with all stem length and extension riser spacers and associated bolts among other parts depending on how you choose to build it. The seat post binder bolt should have been in the bike. Did you buy it from a shop BUILT or was it shipped from a shop or did you buy it over the interweb

Hi,
Ordered from a local shop...I am building it up myself as I am taking my Campagnolo Record 10s and SRM from my Slice and stripping the Ultegra off the RS... I unboxed the bike at home hoping to start the swap when I noticed that the parts were missing..the build instructions for the bike were also not included..the only reason I really knew parts were missing was because I downloaded the supplement from the Cannondale website....

Ive already contacted the shop, they are great guys and Im sure it will get sorted out...

Im just curious this "build kit" you talk about... would that be the risers and stem extensions?? I got the risers cable guides etc... the only things that appear to be missing are the seat wedge, and the extensions.. and the bolts for a zero extension stem... right now its stuck at 12cm and I cant go any shorter... well the bike is unrideable anyways with no seatpost...

I will also need to order the KP248 109mm spindle kit for my SRM just like I needed on my EVO for clearance...

Here's mine!

A quick question if you don't mind...

Where you able to keep your brake from rubbing? When I brake, the drive side brake pad is not springing back and I'm constantly getting brake rub. If I loosed the cable I can't stop. I have to physically push the brake to center it again.

---

Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

The bikes I have built came out of the box as a frame and fork, rear wheel/derailler and brake arms all installed...... I think that was it, everything else was in two boxes. The Stem extensions and the different length bolts, the Aero extension risers and the different length bolts, different length T bolts for the brakes, the brake noodle thingies that need to be cut down depending on the frame size (headtube length), chain, cranks and possibly more stuff aswell. I think the seat wedge was in the frame and held in place with some packaging tape.

Hope that helps

Chris

OK.. well my bike did not have tape over the seat post insert.. so Im guessing it was never installed in the first place... and Ive looked in the box over and over again.. you know.. kinda like when you keep going to the fridge looking for food.. theres nothing in there you really want, but you keep hoping the food fairy showed up and put something in there :)

Stem Extensions are non existant..

Curious on the bikes you built.. was the cable guide installed inside the BB already?? Mine was NOT installed, and you can't get in there unless you pop at least one bearing out of the BB shell as the guide won't fit through the bearing... so whoever built this bike installed the entire crank system, and left the guide out. I have it in the box.. but even the local shop would have to disassemble the whole BB to install the guide.. I just find that odd it was missed.. I aslo received the Electronic battery mount with the bike.. its almost like they started buildign the bike as the electronic version and then said go mechanical on this one half way through...

MMMM, I have built 3 so far, another (my new one) due to arrive hopefully this week.

The ultegra Di2 did have the PF30 cups and bearings installed as was the BB cable guide, its easier to cable if you remove the guide to get the cables thru (less chance of kinking them) yes the PF30 cups will need to come out. My Black Inc had no bearings or cups installed but had the BB cable guide, I have also had one that had no internal cable guides running from the headtube to the BB. They seem to be a little bit inconsistent off the production line so far, im sure this will improve BUT....... they ride so smooth and FAST it doesnt bother me. I just allow plenty of time to piece them together.

Nice looking bike Canadian.

I assume your talking about the rear brake....... Yes i had it pretty much rub free, out of the saddle under full load I had a touch of rub (not with HED jet90 only with the stock 808FC) after I installed the SRAM TT990 levers, the Black Inc came out of the box with the Alloy Vision levers and was totally rub free. The rear brake cable can get pretty dirty pretty quickly down there causing drag, you will need the brake caliper springs running on full boost then hopefully if no kinks in the cable when installing them you should be rub free.

Chris

I think this is what you want:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/...vativ-9081.19.1.html

Hey thanks. I started with that one, then bought the PF30 to SRAM, and now have the universal BB30 to SRAM on the way. The Quarq needs a unique spacing. I'll get there! Maybe I just need to sell this quarq and get a new one.

---

Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

Just get the hollowgram SiSl2 cranks........ :-) they are compatible with almost everything.

Even a Quarq?

---

Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

Pretty sure you can get a quark spider that screws onto the cranks then use your choice of chain rings. I'm positive they have SRM or Quark spiders for them. The team uses the SRM set up and I'm trying to justify the expense for my new bike lol.

Here it is here.

http://www.quarq.com/quarq-cannondale

Nice! I'm trying to prevent myself from justifying this ;)

---

Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling

Dont bother is not possible. Have you seen the weight of those cranks. Rotating weight my friend. Check out the specs of the crankset. Youllbe sold. Quite possibly the only cranks worthy of such a fine bike. :-)

Pretty ironic that someone is trying to convince Chris to buy a lighter crank because of rotating weight. You do know he has made a pretty good business out of selling 2000 gram wheelsets, right?

Yep nice wheels. Would look great with nice crankset positioned between them. ..... LOL :-)

Does the Slice RS Ultegra Di2 come with base bar shifters?

I am hearing it does not, and that you have to buy the dura ace base bar shifters separately, but that it is compatible with the junction box.

Please tell me that Slice RS Ultegra Di2 TT comes with base bar break/shifters included for a price of $7200!

Mine came with just the aerobar shifters. I ended up having to get the Dura Ace Di2 brake lever/shifters aftermarket along with the 5-port junction box.

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Dare I ask how much the base bar shifters and junction box cost?

They weren't available in the US yet, so I got them from Germany. I think they were about $400 total for both. I swapped to Zipp bars at the same time, so I can't comment on how they'll work with the Vision bars. I also ended up selling the SRAM levers here on ST, which helped make up for some of the cost.

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

No they didn't come specd with the basebar shifters but I'd say that's cause they didn't exist when this bike would have been originally specd. My guess is next year's model will have the base bar shifters.

allenpg. where did you fit the 5 port junction box do you have any pics?

Im working on a different solution but if you managed to hide it Im interested in seeing where.

Chris

Chris-

I'll take some photos this weekend, when I can shoot outdoors in better light. The new junction box works great with the Zipp Alumina base bar. I can barely see it from the front.

-Pete

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Did anyone else notice the cable routing? ???

Its not running di2 so where are the brake cables. Also what base bar is that with SLICE on the side. Is this a new bar that intergrates the brake cables somehow?????

Just found this

Looking toward its collaboration with Cannondale, Vision set out to develop a new aerobar system to integrate seamlessly with the Slice RS time trial bike. The result is the Metron TFA, which was developed with the same extensive testing protocol as the new wheels.

I thought the tfa was a bar/stem/extensions in one piece type set up.

Maybe new stuff for next year? ???

Any thoughts?

That is weird cable routing. I'm wondering if the brake cables don't enter through the stem extensions somehow. It already looks like they drilled a few custom holes for the derailleur cables.

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

I mentioned this a while ago on this thread. It appears the bar bolts into the Slice RS stem directly instead of a stem faceplate clamping onto the bar. So this bar must be exclusive to the Slice RS.

Yep brakes must come in through the stem. That wouldn't be that hard to do and with di2 you wouldn't see a cable any where. There is a new bento box that replaces the cable top cap coming soon aswell. So that could be a interesting set up. Very stealth.

I must of missed your post. Sorry. Do you know if it's available yet? Have you seen any more pics?

Haven't seen any close up photos yet of the new bars but in most time trials this season they have used them. They only seem to be using the new Vision "Slice" bars on the new black and green frames which must mean the 2012 spec frame is not compatible with the internally routed brake cables. It looks very sleek indeed.

Here is a photo of their training bikes with the current handlebar and stem setup.


Ivan Basso using the new handlebar/stem in Paris-Nice.

I just received my Slice RS and i noticed a few things. First, the front brakes are very hard to adjust and one side already seems to rub. Any suggestions on fixing this issue? Also, the back brake pads are smaller than the front. Does anyone know where to purchase brake pads designed for this bike? I need a set for non carbon rims.

Sorry, for the delay, but here are some photos of the Di2 routing on my RS with Zipp Alumina bars. It's a ghetto zip tie job right not, so I need to clean it up later. I find most of the junction box is shielded by the Zipp bar.

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Cannondale should have the pads in stock. Pretty sure we do here in Aus. The black inc had the carbon pads and from memory they are zipp pads. Perhaps zipp my have some also. Otherwise just cut your favorite pads down. I'm finding brakes need to be set up on Max spring tension then if all the cables are cut cleanly you should have no problems adjusting them with the grub screws on each brake arm as per normal.

Thanks for the pics of the 5 port junction box aswell. Looks rather tidy. I'm going to try and use two jc41 Junction boxes combined with the original control box to try and hide as much as I can in the bars. May drill a hole in the extensions and on top of the bars to send the cables thru.

Hopefully have some pics soon if it works ha ha

So I'm looking into getting a Slice RS, can someone explain how the stem works?

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

Anyone???

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

Here's the Slice RS manual...

http://media.cannondale.com/...screen_EN_ENDred.pdf

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Stuartaus. I'm happy to TALK tri bikes all day. I'm on the Gold Coast in Aus i assume by your user name you arein aus aswell. send me a pm and I'll give you the number to the shop to call Typing all about the stem/fork is to hard

Anyone else see this pic. Notice the four bolt head in front of the top cap. Got to be something to do with the new SLICE bars.

Saw that. I like that alot.

So I have finally replaced the Black Inc Slice RS I had with a Slice RS Ultegra Di2, I will be upgrading some parts over the next few months. Keen on the Vision Metron 3 spoke wheels for starters, then as the 11spd hub bodies for vision wheels come along Ill replace the derailers with Dura Ace, well thats the plan any way lets wait and see if someone comes and buys this off me or I get to keep it awhile.

I took some pics as I unboxed it, and started the build.

Straight out of the box.

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zps6d71df45.jpg.html]

[/url]

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zps52dfc8ec.jpg.html]
[/url]

First box of parts - chargers, stem and extensions risers and extensions, bar tape etc etc

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsfdf1a047.jpg.html][/url]

Second box of parts - Seat, extensions, cranks, cable top cap, brake lines and brake noodles etc etc

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zps6e13750f.jpg.html][/url]

PF30 Bearings installed as is the E-Tube wiring loom

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zps12e36ef9.jpg.html]
[/url]

Seatpost binder bolt assembly secured with tape

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsdb359614.jpg.html]
[/url]

Then the fun started after unpacking all the bits I got out the drill.......... started drilling some holes for the Di2 cables to run thru the extensions down the risers and into the bars.

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsa8531cc9.jpg.html][/url]

Managed to get everything into the bars, I even drilled out the plastic cable guide so I could run the Di2 cable thru the existing mechanical gear cable hole (forgot pic) I chose to use the normal control box as its smaller instead of the 5 port and I got another JC41 4 port internal junction box (that im still waiting for) but the first one (comes with the bike) fitted into the bars nicely and mated up to the Dura Ace base bar shifters nicely.

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zps9ff45039.jpg.html][/url]

Inside the vision FAST extensions with my internal Di2 holes

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsa1f3d6a5.jpg.html]
[/url]

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsde0aa93d.jpg.html][/url]

So thats where the day ended, Ill have more pics as it all comes along over the next few days.

Not much time spent on this today but did remove the brake arms and set them up properly they don't seem to be coming from the fact set up right. So that and made a cable end feral to fit my di2 etube wiring just to try and protect it a bit if the bars spin and to try and tidy up the exit hole.



Here is a pic of the drilled out cable guide with the etube wire thru the mechanical gear hole.

All finished (for now) I did order the Vision Metron 3 spoke wheelset today and the Vision Metron Disc so more pics to come over the next day or two when they arrive.

was late when I was finished but here is a few dodgy pics

From the front (and thats the bike rack out the front of the shop you can see not a cable hanging down)

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zps67d123a1.jpg.html][/url]

Di2 cables From underneath

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsba7ac8e9.jpg.html][/url]

From the top

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsb5d6aa56.jpg.html][/url]

Finished pic

[URL=http://s16.photobucket.com/...zpsaf1fc252.jpg.html][/url]

Perfect day for the maiden voyage.

looks fast!

the only thing that really irks me about the Slice RS is the seatpost. I still think it looks fugly...even more when there is no rider on the bike.

Yawn.

Glad to see the new bike, Pave! Base bar shifters?!?! Nice work! Those seems to be looong wait times.

I put the birthday present (rear wheel) on last week... Cool! Here's a picture with me with my seat to high/low, my bars to high/low, and definitely too many spacers for the aero's.

I raced a 22 mile downhill TT this weekend (yeah, strange but true)... Pointy helmet and all. Averaged 31 mph. Amazing how the pro's can do that all day long.

Seems like an unfortunate place for the profile bottle, blocking the airflow in between the aero spacers and all.

Sweet bike and the race sounds fun.

Downhill TT awesome. Basebar shifters are in stock here in Aus if you need me to send a set over. Our do you mean they are expensive and need to wait? .
Yes that's alot of spacers but if your comfy so be it.

These turned up to work today on my day off. Can wait to get in tomorrow

I might be picking up a Slice in the next few days, will post some pics on my blog when I get it built

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

That's certainly a comment that nearly everyone makes. I'm confident that they'd sell far more bikes with a seatpost that looks more "normal'. The speed difference would have to be small.

Yeah I agree. I just don't get why they're using a "normal-roadbike-looking" round-ish(?) seat post.
It just doesn't seem to fit in with the rest of the bike.

But once a rider is on it you don't really seem to notice. YMMV. My 2p

It is not round at all. It is thin. Easy way to get around the 3:1 rule in my eyes.

well it looks "round to me"
I don't know....maybe thats what's so off putting in my eyes?

Still a fast bike!

How does that Vision tri-spoke handle?

No idea yet tyre not even glued on ha ha hopefully good I got therear one aswell.

Nothing round about that post......... it NAERO apparently

*thumbs-up

Cheers thanks!
I just got my slice!
Is the seat post reversible?

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

Sounds like you have built up a few RS's in your time .... Quick ???
When you extract the bearings there is a thin plastic "sheet" inside the BB Shell ... Between the bearings ... Some sort of protection I assume.
My ???? is .... Is this plastic needed ?
Or can I just leave it out when I reassemble the cranks again ?
Tx for replying !!!!
sc

Yeah I've built a few. In the process of another for a pretty handy triathlete as we speak.

The plastic I think your talking about is really only needed for the di2 model to stop the wire rubbing against the crank spindle. The mechanical ones have the wire running under/thru the inner bb cable guide.

Yes seat post can go either way.

Chris

Tx
That's what I suspected ....
I'll put it back in as I do have the DI2
Tx again
SC

Those Vision 3 spoke wheels look awesome.

What is the rim width on the Vision Metron Disc?

Thanks. 3 spoke are 23mm and disc is 24mm perfect for swapping between the T42 and the race wheels without a lot of effort.

Well.. almost a month since I got my Slice RS, and I still no sign of the missing parts from Cannondale North America!! So I took things in my own hands and ordered the binder bolt and the 10mm stem extension from Dr Cannondale in Germany...

For anyone who is after Carbon Specific pads, they have them! Part is KP295 so I ordered a set as well..

They use DHL Global Mail... it sucks because they send the stuff out right away... but then it sits in Germany for 11 days ad does nothing before it moves.. and then you get it 4-6 days later... so count on 2.5 weeks after you order before you get the stuff... that's what it was to Canada anyways...

On a sidenote... the tubular looking insert that goes into the seatpost itself that the angle adjustment screw threads into... is everyone's perfectly centered... or offset to one side and poking out a little??

All the ones I've built have been straight.

Finished building this bike today. it will be heading to Ironman Cairns in the coming weeks. 50cm Slice RS with 3T cockpit and wheels vision crankset and Sram Red running gear.

A fast bike...with slow (relatively speaking) wheels (the 3Ts). Why not get something that's tested fast? See the recent thread about the Tour Magazin test.

My slice came without Vission pads, are the vector pads available as an after market pad?

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

Yes they are available. But here in aus vision are in the middle of changing distributors so may be hard to come by unless you find some one with a set already in stock. Funnily enough I have a few sets at the shop. How come your bike isnt BUILT? I'd have thought the shop would have sourced a set while assembling the bike for you. Did you buy from a shop or of the net.?

My Slice turned up without Pads from Cannondale. Having trouble getting them because of the change over.
I work at the store Im getting the slice though, so building it up myself
A little stuck atm in regards to pads and cradles

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

Luv this thread ... But I'm biased :-)
Any suggestions on where to mount a wireless computer on a Slice RS ???
Stem is a little bulky for zip ties ...
Tx in advance for replying
Sc

Are you the mechanic doing the build? Do you have the Cannondale supplement booklet with the tech drawings of the tricky bits so to speak? What model did you get? Di2, Ultegra Mech or the Sram red Black Inc. Sourcing the arm rest pads should be the easiest problem to fix of all that you'll come across.

http://webstore.fullspeedahead.com/...layout=estoreproduct

I will post a pic of where I Mount my garmin 510 a bit later this morning.

Not saying this is ideal but for me it works.

Ultegra Mech, I will build it to 90% then get the head mechanic to finish off the brakes ect.
Yeh wouldn't know where to start without that cannondale booklet, are you just using the one on the web?

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

Also the FSA web store only ships to the USA, what store do you work at I might give you a call there?

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

If you bought it new from Cannondale Australia ring them up and tell them it's missing parts. They will source them for you.

They don't have any, they will invoice me the cost. Just trying to track some down.

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

Tx
That looks good !!!
Like the way you secure it to the cable guides
That will work for me as well
Tx
Sc

Tx for all the support ... Cannondale should give you a stipend :-)
I'm recabling the rear brake .... Long story ... And it involves the vbrake noodle and the liner (which was cut way too short at factory)

My ???

The old cable is still in ... Can I attach a new cable to the old cable At the top SOMEHOW and just remove the old cable thru the bottom thus threading the new cable thru the top cable guide and headset bearing area ???? Sounds too easy :-)

Tx in advance for replying ...

SC

I'd like to put the rear brake to the stiffest spring setting.. can someone tell me what size wrench I need on that 12 pt nut??

Ha I was waiting for this question a 10mm 12point socket will do the trick

I think I know what your wanting to do. If I'm thinking right id say NO.

Thank you sir!!!!!

Your welcome. Just a thought.

When setting up the brakes. Do not unwind the grub screw past flush with the brake arm. If you do it will allow the spring tension adjuster thingy inside the brake am to slip past the grub screw. Then it will require the arm to be removed and reset.

Same for both sides. DON'T UNWIND PAST FLUSH WITH THE BRAKE ARM. ......

In the below pic the grub screw is out to far.



This pic the grub screw is as far out as it can go before the spring tension thingy inside slips past. But it will go in around 10mm.

What water bottle/ Aero bottles are everyone using for there slice RS? and where have you mounted them?

---

http://stuartwalpole.blogspot.com/

I'm using the Arundel Chrono primarily for training and longer TTs. The Chrono cage is nice, since the dual mounting holes allow you to get it close to the bottom bracket. I've got an Xlab Torpedo mount that I haven't tried yet, but am using Zipp Vukas and not the stock Visiontechs.

-Pete

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

I just zipp tied a cage under the seat and one between the bars. I did have a torhans bottle on the frame but decided to go the clean look.

A few more pics of the bottle placement I use.

Does anyone know anything about this?? I just got an email from my shop who is getting my missing parts:

Subject: Important Tech Issue Notice Slice RS

Sales,
An issue with the braking system on the Slice RS has been identified and a corrective action program is being put in place. This will require we stop all shipments of this model until the resolution/fix has been finalized. This will also require that all consumer units be returned to the Dealer. We are actively working on a resolution and should have answers by early next week.
Dealer Service has started the process on contacting all participating Retailers to inform them of the need to have all units sent back to Bedford for re-work. We will be offering consumers an AHA credit for the inconvenience and Dealers will be reimbursed for labor. We will keep you informed as more information becomes available.

I'm curious what the braking issue is. I've had no problems. I also have my bike registered with Cannondale and haven't heard anything. These brakes work just as well as any of my other linear pull brakes...they actually stop better then some of the TRP aero brakes...

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Dunno.. there is nothing on the recall section on the Cannondale website either...

I must admit to stop the rear brake from rubbing i used a small piece of rubber to create more of a gap between the chainstay and the u-shaped removable cover piece (the one that holds the battery on the Di2 bike. I thought I had a picture of my 'horrible hack', but I don't. I'll post one soon. I'll also contact my shop. 3 weeks until my first Tri of the season, so I am not sure I want the bike taken away from me.

---

________________________________________________
Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Not sure about any of this.

Nothing official from cannondale over here.

My brakes are awesome. Very strong. They only slow you down anyway ha ha ha

The cannondale recall will be made public within the next week or so. The problem appears to be the bonding between front brake and the front folk. I have had major issues with my front brake since i received it. It looks like they are working on a solution, but they could replace the frames with the 2013 frame that should be released in August. This recall appears to only be for the Black RS.

I called Cannondale this aft and they told me all Slice RS in general and that the frame/fork would need to be sent back via your local bike shop... there is nothing with the actual brake.... they told me it would be a 3-4 week turn around from the time they got it, so I wouldn't think there'd be a 2013 frame involved... I asked if I should remove all my parts from the bike.. they told me basically whatever is sent down will be sent back.. Im stripping mine down to nothing....

I am based in the UK and got a call today and just checked out the thread.

I have been told a 6-8wk turnaround and that Cannondale are sending across a Slice 105 to ride across the duration of the hiatus.
Sounds like a £3500 bike with £2000 wheels wasn't my greatest investment of 2013.....I am a little annoyed, right in the middle of the Tri season and UK Summer.....cannot wait to get the bike back to use on the cold, wet, bleak Autumn and Winter!

I am thinking of requesting a 2013 frame and they can keep their current crock!

---

http://www.gsterb.wordpress.com