Login required to started new threads

Login required to post replies

Prev Next
Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread
Quote | Reply
Lets talk Time Machine!!

Last season I bought and built up my TMO1 with Ultegra. I race with Bontrager Aeolus 9's. Its super clean bike although I didnt care for the aerobar setup. I set the bike fit up from my other bikes coordinates so it wasnt a fit issue. I just didnt like the look of the front end. I wanted it to be clean and it was kinda clunky looking. So after the two final races in the season, 70.3's in Weisbaden and Ireland, I changed from the stock Profile Design cockpit to a 3T Aura Pro setup. The front end on the TM01 has a ton of different combinations with the stem. My fit coordinates dicated that the stem needed to be in one of the highest sitting positions and along with the aerobars set up it added to the clunkiness I didnt like. The goal was to drop the front end and allow it to go along with the lines of the rest of the frame without messing with my fit. I knew I could get the bars down at about frame level Id just have to get the risers for the arm pads and the right extensions. I figured it all out and the fit is within a few miilimeters of where I was. The stem made it so easy! Those guys were thinking!!! While I was at it, I swopped out for some white cable housing too. Sure the only place you see it is at the front as it goes into the steertube cap/ cable organizer, and at the rear of the bike, but along with the white on the frame seat and on the 3T bar, its pretty much like money in the bank!


Clunky version


New cockpit

Now, does anyone have any questions about this bike?

I have a few issues with the brakes and really they are the only thing I have come across with it.

I am also a bike mechanic. I found that the only thing on the bike that will give you fuss while building it is the brakes. The rest is pretty straight forward. Sure the internal cables can be fussy but it wasnt bad. Whats bad about the brakes involves the cables. As with any V-brake they use a brake noodle, a TINY one. I personally think the brakes feel like garbage because of the really tight bend in the noodle. I replaced my noodles with the noodles that are flexible, I cut it to length and it changed the entire way the brakes feel. Also, when cutting the housing, you have to cut it so that the noodle rests on it inside the frame, so short that the housing disappears inside of the frame. Its not so bad on the back but in the front fork, lets just say its a pain in the butt to get the cable out whe the housing is inside the fork. The hole is very small. Another thing that takes a bit of time is setting the brakes up for your rim width. Its not done with a spring tension adjustment at all. it differs from normal Vbrakes because normal v brakes open. Normally, once you use the correct pad spacers you just adjust it so you get the desired amount of play; close or not as close, depending on how you want your brake lever positioned on lock. With the BMC brakes, there are stops that do not allow the brake arms to open past a specific point. NOTE these brakes play an aerodynamic role along with the frame so they have to line up with the lines of it. In limiting the distance of which the arms can open, you limit how space you can have once the pads and the pads spacers are on. With this bike, you use extra spacers and combinations of them to dictate the distance between rim and pad. That dictates how far your brake levers go in. But really. This is a bike of extreme precision, once its set up, you dont have to change it much if any. Taking the time to set up the brakes is something we all must do, it just takes a bit more time on this bike. Now that the brakes are set up, and feel better than they did with the stock brake noodle, we can talk about the feel of their engagement. On a normal V-brake, like on a mountain bike, we use spring tension to not only adjust how much force we have to use to close the brake but also to balance out each arm as to make the pads hit the braking surface simolatinioulsy. This is the BIGGEST gripe I have about my Time Machine's brakes!!!! There is no way to adjust the balance of the arms. The frame is narrow so there is only so much space for a cable to bend basically 90 degrees as they have to with a v-brake. I say that because the tight internal spacing puts the housing to one side of the frame, the cable bends through the noodle, and gets hooked to the brake arm. Its a small space for all of that to be going on in and the tightness puts a limit on the housing's movement. THAT limits one of the brake arm's movement. The small amount of extra pressure on the cable housing could be overpowered by either increasing the opposing arm's spring tension or by decreasing the tension in the arm the cable is hooked to. The BMC does not have that option though!!! On both brakes, one of the pads hits the rim before the other. When your used to brake perfection things like that might bother you for a bit as it did me. Im over it as in im used to it so I dont cry when it happens on a ride but I still want to find a solution!

The other issue with the brake is a small one. I fixed it on my bike but it may be an issue on other bikes depending on the rim and tire width differences. As most road brakes have a a release to use when taking the wheel off the TM does not. you cant even open the v-brake due to reasons I mentioned above. The front wheel, on mine, isnt an issue at all but the rear wheel is. I cut a small portion of housing out of the way on the tiny length of the cable that is visible between the aerobar and the frame and put a cable adjuster on. No, when I get a flat I can just follow the steps in changing it without having to change when I inflate the tire. Not sure if every raody does this but, I inflate the tire while off the bike, then put it back on. I wouldnt have been able to do that without that little barrel adjuster on the cable. Sure I have to remember to loosen the cable before I take the wheel off or put it back on but thats better than changing up a process I have done for years, agree? with the adjuster, I think there is enough range to even put other, thinner or wider, wheels on it. But, the front is another issue. My rims are very close to the same width for both the Bontrager and the Mavics that came on it. So, theres that. Now there is this. IF you plan to train on one set of wheels and then change it up on race day to a race wheel, be ready to mess around with the pad spacers. Hopefully you dont have to mess with anything to do with cables, especially the front one. The front brake has a plastic cover that hides the noodle/cable connection area. The hole on the brake arm is TINY. Its the width of a cable. You HAVE to cut the remainder of the calbe off once its tightened. Anything that hangs out of the arm will hit the plastic cover and it would just make the cover stick out off the line of the fork. Kinda shitty! I suppose you could drill a tiny hole on the plastic piece so that you could have about 5-10mm of cable remaining once it exits the arm, but hopefully you never have to change that when it comes to wheels. Also, the tiny screw that tightens the cable to the arm is of the crushing type. Once tightened it just smooshes the cable to the point of no return. Meaning, even with the fastener completely loose, and even out of its hole, the cable with still take a hefty amount of pulling to get it out of the arm. The hole in the arm is so small that the expanded/crushed cable cant fit through it to well. If you have to adjust a cable, just make sure you have a new one on hand and at the ready.

Does anyone know if any of these issues have been fixed for 2013, prolly not but hey. anyone?

While asking questions, I thought of this. Are tri brake levers all the same in the way that they pull, distance in particular? Let me elaborate. I know on nice MNT bike brake levers, both cable and hyrdo, have adjustments for both engagement and lever position. For angle of attack and modulation. Im sure its just a matter of pivot point and leverage on the lever itself. I ask bc I would like my to tweek my levers. At full engagement they are farely close to the bar and Im not a fan of it. This is NOT a matter of pad distance either. I have no experience in tri/tt brake levers other than what I have and the few I have adjusted for others. None of them had any adjustments on the lever itself.

Lets see your Time Machines!
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I am looking at a TM01 or TM02. The price difference for me is about $700NZD (US$630). It seems like the benefits of integration of the TM01's front end may not be benefits at all, and that it would be far better to save the difference and go for the TM02, possible running a fast bar and front brake which is much simpler to live with (TriRig Omega).

Would you agree with that?
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Just finished building up a Di2 version and it now fits just right BUT brakes have been my issue as well.

I have Firecrest racing wheels and they are wide and I am training on Mavics. The problem is not being able to go wide enough as you can remove various brake stops it is finding that happy middle ground to being able to go narrow enough to fit the mavics in and get a good functioning brake. I have put in barrell adjusters and it isnt quite right yet. I am changing a part of the brake system that should do the trick.

I have had to cut an allen key down so as it can reach the drive side rear calliper which is tucked away nice and neatly behind the chainring which is a pain. Needless to say a quick change come race morning is not really on the cards.

In the process of contacting distributor to work out a solution as they sell the bike with fire crests on so I am assuming this issue would have well and truely raised its head before.
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I have Enve 6.7's on mine. I had to use older, worn down brake pads, but I don't have to release them with 22 or 23 mm tires. Maybe with 25's but I haven't tried it.
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I'm just finishing up my BMC Time Machine with Ultegra Di2, just waiting for the U Di2 tt shifters to arrive. I found that the brakes are very sensative to the length of the housing but if I get the housing the length just right, I have really good braking with equal pull to the rim and plenty of space. One of my favorite features is how clean the frame is to include internal storage of the battery. Looking forward to getting some miles on it.



Last edited by: Tamu8104: Feb 17, 13 13:43
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [harts] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
What about shaving the brake pads down a little? Wouldn't that be just as simple? I have a tm01 but haven't had my race wheels on it yet.

Kirk Noyes

Downtubes are for Dinosaurs

Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Sweet ride fabricatedyou! Great thread idea - arguably one of the most beautiful TT bikes available today. Simple, clean, sharp, industrial lines which aren't blemished by having the manufacturer's logo plastered 15 times on each side. As I'm on a TM02, can't comment on the TM01's front brake - which was one reason I went for the TM02 instead of the TM01, the other reason being the price differential.

Here's my virgin TM02 Ultegra Di2 which I've only just picked up this week:





Since someone's bound to ask this eventually: no, the Torhans VR bottle cage doesn't fit flush onto the frame - see below.



I'd actually like to get the bottle cage lower down, but the point where the E-tube wire for the front derailleur exits the frame prevents me from doing so. Anyone have any ideas or workarounds?
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I like your color choice. I'll play ball. You should have gotten that Aura bar in red like my Brezza

Naked:


Pre IMSG:



TT


Last edited by: Zoom_zoom_Ben: Jan 8, 13 22:12
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I'm also building a TM01 with Ultegra Di2, waiting for Dura-Ace Di2 9071 shifters and brake levers plus the five-port front junction to finish it up. No issues so far. Here's the current situation:


Last edited by: VP: Jan 9, 13 0:04
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [mattharrop] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
mattharrop wrote:
I am looking at a TM01 or TM02. The price difference for me is about $700NZD (US$630). It seems like the benefits of integration of the TM01's front end may not be benefits at all, and that it would be far better to save the difference and go for the TM02, possible running a fast bar and front brake which is much simpler to live with (TriRig Omega).

Would you agree with that?

Aside from really liking the color silver, I'd still get a TM01if I had to buy another one. This time I would get hop on the 2013 model with the white/silverish stripe! I might custom paint it before the season anyway. Oh, and nothing over the too. I like the bike bc its simple looking, I would never ruin that! :)

Besides the fronts inability to adapt to some wheels, they still work as stoppers, I'm just trying to let ppl know the details and hopefully we can work through them all. Really once you have it set up O bet you'll rarely mess with it. The spacers sure, but more than likely not the cable. Those TriRig guys are thinkers, I really like that in a company. If you do end up going with the TM02 def set it up with there cockpit and brake!
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [harts] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
harts wrote:
Just finished building up a Di2 version and it now fits just right BUT brakes have been my issue as well.

I have Firecrest racing wheels and they are wide and I am training on Mavics. The problem is not being able to go wide enough as you can remove various brake stops it is finding that happy middle ground to being able to go narrow enough to fit the mavics in and get a good functioning brake. I have put in barrell adjusters and it isnt quite right yet. I am changing a part of the brake system that should do the trick.

I have had to cut an allen key down so as it can reach the drive side rear calliper which is tucked away nice and neatly behind the chainring which is a pain. Needless to say a quick change come race morning is not really on the cards.

In the process of contacting distributor to work out a solution as they sell the bike with fire crests on so I am assuming this issue would have well and truely raised its head before.

Soooo, what part are trying to replace in the brake system?
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Zoom_zoom_Ben] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Zoom_zoom_Ben wrote:




How did you get the Torhans bottle so low, ie how many/what screws did you use ? If I want to get it there I can only use 1 seatpost screw and I guess I could drill another in the holder to be able to attach to the downtube holder. Without modification my bottle is higher, like branmg in the post a few above above

thanks
Last edited by: marcag: Jan 9, 13 2:48
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [marcag] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply



  • Frame: BMC TM01 / size medium/short
  • Fork: BMC Carbon Integrated Aero Hinge
  • Crankset: Rotor 3D 175mm with Power2max powermeter
  • BB box: Parlee cups with CeramicSpeed bearings
  • TT chainring: O.Symetric 54t / 44t
  • Handelbar: Pro Missile EVO aero
  • Stem: BMC P2P Tri Angle Concept Stem
  • Headset: FSA Orbit IS Carbon
  • Seatpost: BMC P2P 21_21 Offset Carbon Post
  • Brakes caliper: BMC integrated brake system, Front & Rear
  • Brakes levels: Campagnolo TT
  • Front derailleur: Campagnolo Super Record 11 speed
  • Rear derailleur: Campagnolo Super Record 11 speed
  • Pedal: Time RXS Carbon
  • Chain: KMC X11SL gold
  • Sadel: ProLogo Nago EVO HB w/carbon rails
  • Wire: Gore Ride-On
  • Cable housing: Gore Ride-On
    - - - - -
  • Front Wheel: ZIPP 808
  • Disk Wheel: Lightweight AutoBahn
  • Tubulars: Continental Podium TT 19
  • Cassette: Campagnolo Super Record 11-23T
    - - - - - -
  • Front Wheel: Mavic IO
  • Disk Wheel: Lightweight AutoBahn
  • Tubulars: Continental Podium TT 19
  • Cassette: Campagnolo Super Record 11-23T


My TT bike
BMC TM01
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Tillquist] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Looks good. Brakes are horrible. Front brake kind of 'chucks'.. its not smooth at all.
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Cake] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Great thread all! I just took receipt of my TM02 yesterday and stuck a set of 404s on it. Looking good so far, but I will be going the Ui2 route next month. I noticed that it is a bit on the stodgy side, so I'll be swapping out some of the heavier bits for some carbon bling. Any advice on a quick win?

Follow me on Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ironrav
Check out my blog at: http://ironrav.blogspot.com/
Have a listen of my Podcast : http://www.industrialmultisport.co.uk/Podcast/imultisport.rss or on iTunes
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Ironrav] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Ironrav wrote:
I noticed that it is a bit on the stodgy side
My current build is 7300 g and I estimate that the final bike will be about 8400 to 8500 grams.
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I have the same issue with the front end of mine. Right now I am using all the risers to get my pro missile at the right height. Looking at replacing it this year with possibly the EVO version or get the new TriRig aero bar when it comes out and get the front cleaned up like you did.

As for the brakes, they are a PITA. I got the bontrager RXXXL Aero levers and they seem to work ok to adjust the brakes when switching wheels.

One question about your first photo, how are you holding the flask in there?


Smart Bike Trainers Guide & Reviews || My Twitter | Smart Trainers Buying Guide
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [marcag] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
It just has one screw in it. My frame is a M/L and it fits really well. I know on the Small frames it cant get down so far though.

Ive never had any issues with that bottle though, and the one screw works well still.
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Photos of my TM02: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...string=tm02;#4253029


Regarding the common break pad issue. I run standard training rims and race with Firecrest 808. My solution is as follows. Two sets of pads, do not use the pad lock screws, and pull slight tension on the cable with the training wheels.

Bike setup for training: I have the pad holders set all the way out with no inner spacers (all the spacers are on the outside). I bought the thickest (deepest) pads I could find and slid them into the pad holders, and do not use the pad holder screws (the brake action naturally slides the pads into the holder). I then pull slight tension on the cable to pull the arms off the stop pins and then tighten the cable screw. The arms do not sit on the brake arm stop pins, but they center fine (this is opposed to what BMC says to do). I guess the other option is to use a barrel adjuster.

Bike setup for racing: I loosen the brake cable screw so the cable and arms release back to the arm stop pins, I remove the training brake pads (they slide right out since no set screw), slide in filed down carbon brake pads, pull the brake cable tight and tighten the cable screw. Done, and ready to race. Takes less then 2-3 minutes.


Btw, there are some great looking bikes on this thread. I love the Lightweight disc.

-jack


-----
Fine Line Racing - "this is living"
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [fabricatedyou] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Btw, if anybody wants to buy any 3T bars for their TM01/02, I have 2 brand new sets.

Brezza: red stripe, alloy s-bend extensions, carbon cups, basic mounting hardware. (would look great on a black/red TM01)

Ventus: silver stripe, carbon straight extensions, large comfort carbon cups, extra risers and hardware. (would look great on a silver TM02)

---PM me if interested. I won't post prices or reply to questions on this thread because it's not the classifieds and I don't want to hijack the thread.---


-jack


-----
Fine Line Racing - "this is living"
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Zoom_zoom_Ben] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Zoom_zoom_Ben wrote:
It just has one screw in it. My frame is a M/L and it fits really well. I know on the Small frames it cant get down so far though.

Ive never had any issues with that bottle though, and the one screw works well still.

Cool, thanks
Mine is a M/L and I can get it down to where you are, but then I can only use one screw to the seat tube.
But if I could drill a small hole in the bottle to line up with the hole on the downtube if I really wanted 2 screws. But if 1 works, good enough.

Do you use it for drink or flat kit ? If flat kit, I have seen people cut the bottom of the bottle and some the back (along the seat tube). Not sure which is better.
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [marcag] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I used mine as a watered down gel flask for IMSG and Leadman 250.
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [3Dealz] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I hooked the flask to the cables that exit the extensions. The upper Velcro strap is on the cables and the lower is around the stem.

On pulling tension on the brake cable. I did the same thing. But, one of the springs is just too strong to make a difference.
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [Zoom_zoom_Ben] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Does it rattle at all with only one screw?

Ken Petruzzelli
My Blog - Opinionated Triathlete & Lawyer
Coached by TriMarni Coaching & Nutrition
Quote Reply
Re: Official BMC Time Machine Owners Thread [kenpetruzzelli] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Not at all. It doesnt twist either. The mount actually fits the tripwire grooves on the frame really well and gets held in place. My GF has the TM02 in small and we put it on hers as well and it worked great. So n=2 for it working!

The only special thing I had to do was on hers I drilled a new bolt hole to mount it as low as I could.
Quote Reply

Prev Next