Hey all, I picked up a slice rs the other week and came across this awesome thread so I thought I would share my ride : )

I bought this as a TT machine, not for tri's. Still setting it up and haven't really ridden it properly yet. Still to come is a Fizik Tritone saddle and an Elite aero bottle and cage.

Yeah, whoa...
I'd be afraid to race you!

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Group Eleven – Websites for Athletes / mikael.racing / @mstaer

Trying to figure out wifes bike(2013 Slice RS). I’d bring it in but I had it into the shop three times last year (all to diff shops) and each time it came out something was broke including her crank falling off mid ride so even though the tri in the house was a bit intimidating I figured I’d add it to my fixing list.

I’m trying to adjust her brakes or preferably swap out pads in the rear. I’ve read through this thread and I’ve made sure the noodle is in the correct position. I’ve done it and I thought I was good to go but after a few times using the brakes I noticed the right side kept barely rubbing, but it rubbed so no good. I tried adjusting with no luck, after some time I put the old pad on the right side and left a new one on the left for some testing. Worked great for like 20 times but then it start rubbing a bit on the other side(left). No matter what I try to do I seem to be running into the problem where it wants to stick to one side a hair more than the other? Thoughts or suggestions? I’ve read other similar things in this read but maybe I’m missing something. The front isn’t a problem replacing the pads and adjusting but maybe there’s more to the tension with the cantilevers.



Also, I am unable to remove the top bracket as the two screws in the picture(highlight with an * ) seem to be stripped? Can someone tell me if this should be a 2.0? This is a first for me so I haven’t tried to remove them before but the 2.5 seems to large and the 2.0 seems to move quite a bit and I didn’t want to strip as finding replacement parts for this bike has required me to call bike shop then have them call cannondale, then I pick up from bike shop. (yes I had to do some fancy work with an allen wrench to remove and replace the pads on the right side ;) ).

I’m pretty new with a lot of this, so I apologize in advance if I’m missing something easy.

Thanks much!

So the centering of the brakes is the absolute most tricky thing to get right on this bike. One thing to start with is that I am using 808 wheels, where the rim and the tire are the same width... So I don't need to mess with anything when taking the wheel on and off.

But to get the brakes to pull evenly on both sides comes down to:
1) making sure the brakes are set so that there is a good amount of tension when the brakes are in the 'ready to ride' position. When you remove the brake calipers there are three positions for the tenspring to sit in. I think I have mine in the middle but this setting where the tension spring can be put in one of the three holes will adjust the overall tension of each side.
2) once that is set, there is a very small Allen key on the outside of the cannondale special caliper arms. This, as it is tightened, will increase the tension on the side you are adjusting. This is the final place to get the tension even.

(what makes it worse, is that all of this has to be done very delicately because the screws are very small and easy to use strip)

3) I had to resort taking out the brake pads and sanding them down a little... So that the brake didn't need to travel so far to make contact with the rim.

It's a bear... I know. Good luck. I may be able to answer questions, if you have any.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Hey guys. I havn't been on here for awhile and am now at a shop selling TREK but one thing i noticed in the above reply by trislice was that the brake cover can sit so close to the brake arms that they touch and don't allow the arms to have there full spring tension. Few options here. If you don't have the di2 version remove it. If you need it you might want some spacers to allow it to sit a touch higher. A bit of grease between the cover and the brake arms might help.
Hope you got it sorted already or some of this helps.
Chris.

Thanks much for both of the quick replies and help. I'll give it some more tinkering after work this evening. I know I already asked but anyone know what size those two screws I had in the pic above or #24 in the pic below? That #2 sure does seem to move a lot and I'm nervous to do put pressure as it seems inevitable that it would strip. Thanks again.

One quick suggestion: you might try Swisstop Evo pads. They're a bit thinner and therefore they might give you some more room to work with.

Oh, yes... I had forgotten that... I thought I had documented my fix for this above, but don't see it... I used a small "u" shaped cut out piece of black foam (one of those 8.5"x11" paper sized foam sheets you find in a craft store) to create the space between the caliper and the u-shaped cover.

I recall those screws to the cover being tightly attached.. note the 'loctite' note above. That means it takes quite a hefty turn to get them started. i just tried a 2.5, and it doesn't fit.. i guess that means that the 2mm was the one that fit.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

I did put on Swisstop Evo's last night and making it tighter(more tension) seemed to help along with the tensioners and springs. With all this I think she's good to go but will need to wait until the wife takes it out this evening, it got too last last night when I put it all back together. On the plus side it appears after looking at how it all works I should be able to make other carbon wheels fit, last year a couple local shops(cannondale dealerships) around here said they couldn't put the zipps on this bike because they simply will not fit, to which was very confusing as I'd seen them sold with the Zipps.

Anyway, thanks all.

Is there anyone who has or knows of a successful CAMPY EPS installation on the Slice RS???

For anyone that's run the rear brake inner cable from the lever all the way to the caliper, how did you deal with routing at the cable guide inside the headtube? Drill it out?

Hi Bikewrecker

Just to let you know. I have made my wifes Slice RS run with all kinds of Zipp Firecrest CC, both 404, 808 and Super9. Don't tighten the brake arms too much. In "neutral" they should align with the frame, both front and rear. Use spacer rings between brake arm and brake pad to get the desired tension on the brake. Use the small 2,5mm screws on brake arms to adjust alignment when braking.

Hope this can help you :-)

Ok, yet another question. How to do I remove #18 (or to the left of 18 - Loctite 243, 5.0Nm in the picture)? I remove the 4 screws to pull the plate off, but that bolt that accepts the back screws underneath it has a very different pattern, I've never seen it. Thanks much as always!

I think its a 10mm 12-point socket if i remember correctly

Yes, thanks. The star like shape had me worried I'd strip it. Thx

Yet another question from this bike that feels like my nemesis. I'm trying to pull the cranks out(not bearings) and I removed the 10mm hex and pulled off the one arm, now i've removed the drive bearing shield and outside washer, from what I've gathered on the internet it should slide right out. But I had to force anything before knowing, can anyone confirm this should slide out? maybe a light tap with a rubber mallet? thanks.

Hi together,

hopefully one of you is having a wahoo kickr at home. Could you please tell me if the slices chainstays fit onto a wahoo kickr? Currently I'm using an Elite Turbo Muin, but the chainstays are hitting Muins non-drive side housing :(

Thanks in advance
Peat

Hi there, I have bought the same bike, 2013 model Black Inc pre-owned but as new condition and noticed the finish on the frame is slightly uneven in some places. Only a tiny bit but the matt black exacerbates the issue. Especially on the top tube the weave below the paint seems to have a couple of small lumps, and the "point" on the end of the top tube isn't perfect. I'm sure there is no issues with the frame but it's just not 100% perfect carbon work like my Evo frame.... have you found anything similar with your Black Inc frame?

Hi there, I have bought the same bike, 2013 model Black Inc pre-owned but as new condition and noticed the finish on the frame is slightly uneven in some places. Only a tiny bit but the matt black exacerbates the issue. Especially on the top tube the weave below the paint seems to have a couple of small lumps, and the "point" on the end of the top tube isn't perfect. I'm sure there is no issues with the frame but it's just not 100% perfect carbon work like my Evo frame.... have you found anything similar with your Black Inc frame?

i never post on ST, but i wanted to memorialize this thought. It made a HUGE difference using the Vision specific cables and housings when re-cabling the bike with vision TT levers, the ones that came on 2013 ultegra mechanical RS build. The levers support fully internal housings. The DragOn vision cables are very flexible, and the cable is a 1mm thinner diameter cable than most brands. The end of the cable also resembles shimano/sram shift cables , not mushroom, and not campy. I was having the biggest headache, attempting nokon brake housins, old jagwire brake housins, new jagwire road pro brake housings and cables..... Having a stiff cable while great on road bikes is not what the slice RS needs..... too many hours of my youth were wasted on brake housings and cable routing for this bike.

first attempt cutting, installing housing, routing cable through, and bolting up brake.... the brake felt actually responsive. I would encourage anyone who works on their own slice RS and vision levers to get the DragOn cable / housing set.

For the shift cables, which i didn't have any issue with, im going with nokons off my road bike with new cables. Seems to work fine, and the original pictures of the slice on liquigas , the mechanics seem to use this approach.


one question i do have, and have never found the answer to.... does anyone or any company make a bb30 (slice rs) to GXP adapter kit. Im using wheels mFR right now and it's not exactly bb30 and not exactly ideal.

here it is. After days of recabling and housings. I bought different extensions, so i'll do it again sigh. lol

Nice bars & extensions...what make / model? And what model brake levers? Looks great.

thanks! It was the universally 'asian brand' HB029 bar which i think shows up in numerous rebradned forms, PDQ etc. Unidirectional finish and 42cm base bar width. Looked sweet to me, and as long as it doesn't implode first ride, cheap enough to replace the comical Trimax stock slice RS setup

the brake levers are spring loaded TRP RL 970 levers. I like them. Seem to work!