Never found one but I have done some alterations to the build to make it un-needed, a friend and I made one and 3d printed it a new stem topcap that aloows to route cables thrpigh the top. I'm using a over cable through the frame and I'll post pictures after I'm done with the build.

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

Hello!
I have a problem with the seatpost tube that goes down ...
Yet I have applied to the special anti slip carbon paste.
On the clamping system, indicated 5N.m.
If I serve 5N.m., the saddle slipped immediately when I'm on it.
If I serve 8N.m., saddle slips when there shaking.
Is there a risk if I am in 10Nm?

I have been having the same problem. I'm a big guy though (210lb) but I have tried alot. I just put the carbon paste on and over torqued the bolt a bit ( between 8-9) with the carbon paste and riding home from the bike shop a couple miles I had no slip but you could try adding a bit of texture to the seat post wedge or anything that might give the post a bit more grip inside the frame.

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

My bolt was fully released, there was floating in the direction..
To tighten it, I had to disassemble the brake cable.

well I got my bike done, Did a couple user friendly upgrades to it and overall I love the bike. It doesn't climb as well as the older slice did to me but that's not what it is made to do. if anyone is interested in the stem cap I made let me know, they are easy to produce with a 3D printer and I like the way it looks and works more than the stock option.

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

Hey Guys I hope I havn't done something stupid. Just paid a deposit on a slice RS from 2013/14. Its in really good condition but far away so I've had to do another purchase without seeing the bike first except on a skype call and photos.
I'll try post a pic so you guys can analyze it for me.
Does the front end look "Normal" the stem and bars etc?
Is there a way to make the base bar higher or can you only pedastel the extensions?
never had a bike with an integrated front end.

Post pictures.

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

Trying to. Never posted pics before how do I do this ?

Still can't upload image. Anyway is the only way I can tell the year model from the serial number ?
If it's a 2013 I think I'm going to back out of the deal. Bike looks in really good cond but waiting for serial number. Being in another country and not buying new from a dealer I'm not sure I would be covered under warranty. Will call the distributor and check though

So got hold of the distributor. Turns out the bike is a 2013 based on pics I sent them. They said that they did re-call and were quite thorough in replacing the frames, but they cant tell if this one was replaced or not, and either way I wont have any recourse whether replaced or not. So how do i know it was replaced? Can I tell from something specific? And assuming it was replaced after the re-call have the issues been sorted?

here it is if anyone can open it

My other reservations about the bike are the base bar height, and wheel clearance. I like to train and race on min 25mm tyres with a 404 or 808fc. Just don't feel like complicating relatively simple things like swapping wheels etc.

On the fence with the bike. Paid a deposit but might back out.

base bar height isn't too critical is it? as long as your extensions can be at the height and distance you prefer?

surely there are other slice RS in this country that you dont have to buy from overseas?

For the most part no, I'm about 7cm above my base bar on my current set up and actually like the lower base bar and going to the base bar I'm still opening up a good amount in regards to hip angle in a semi aggressive position. Most modern aero bars are going to a extension stack anyway due to aerodynamic benefits anyway so most people have a drop the the base bar.

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

phinney moves from BMC to Cannondale Drapac and is helping cdale with new TT bike , wonder what will happen with the 3:1 rule going out the door

After almost missing a race last year because of trouble adjusting my Slice RS I decided to make a few upgrades.

What needed to be done was to simplify all type of adjustments.

So for the shifters I went with Sram Red etap.

But the biggest problem was the brakes. The brake cables had so many curves it didn't return all the way after braking. So I went on and rerouted the brake cable and added a adjuster on the housing and Srams brake lever with adjustability and spring to help the return of the cable. I also made the housing go all the way from the brake levers to the brakes itself. Now I can change wires only unscrewing the wire from the brake and pushing a new wire through the brake lever, (5 min work tops). I can also adjust the brake while riding the bike if necessary.

I have yet to test all of that in real life but things are very promissing on the trainer...

They alreadyy have. The bike developed and phinney is riding it. There is a photo he was tagged in on instagram that's shows the back of his slice fork

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

That's a slick top cap. If I. Could run my cables that way I would be ecstatic! Great work on that!

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

were u using vision's proprietary drag-on cables and housings? I threw away dura ace, sram, and jagwire cables during my first attempt at recabling, and once i used visions' cables and housings which are more flexible and smaller diameter cable (with same brake head) it went on first try and without any drag. I can honestly say my brakes on the slice RS has never felt better and strong (hilariously enough).....

my shifting has been suspect, and i'm in the works with getting a top cap printed so that the brake cable entry is the same (because i'm happy with it) and the shifter cable will go straight down ala, nibali mod earlier this thread. i wish i had the coin for etap for a bike that i enjoy riding but dont ride enough and would prefer to have etap on my road bike....


i'd be interested in seeing this screen grab

I was and still am using vision's housing through the basebar. But the rest is sram housing.
The wire I'm using is the jagwire with black coating. The cable itself is 1,5mm thick. It flows nicely now with this mod. But I basically had to redo everything with the brake cables. All the plastic stock parts are gone.

this bike?

Idk, they are calling it a super slice and only showed a pic of the fork. I've been following that new slice since kona and nothing has come about it

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

haha super slice. ive seen another image (looking) of cannondale team without back disc, which would be interesting as mavic doesn't make a disc disc yet, so they'd have to brand a zipp

formolo (and rolland) had some tricked out vision adjusters

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=5002
take a look at this

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

re-upped

Hey RS peeps, I am considering picking up one of these frames.

Right now I'm riding a 2011 Slice 4. I really like the bike and I've got a GREAT fit, but there are a couple of cracks in the frame I am getting looked at, so if they're "fatal" cracks I may be looking for a new frame even though I do not particularly want to change my bike right now.

I'm running a Rival 2x10 group set with a wifli medium cage rear derailleur, and a BB30 SRAM/Quarq power meter. Hoping this stuff will transfer over (except I am aware the brake calipers are different)

Here's the ebay ad for the frame I have my eye on:
http://www.ebay.com/...rksid=p2056016.l4276

From this picture and various others on a google image search, I'm aware this frame does not have a conventional steerer tube and stem arrangement.
I'm attaching a picture of my current bike to give an idea of how high I am above the top tube and the kinds of bars I'm running. It's a profile design T2 wing alloy basebar and alloy T1 aerobars. 100mm 6 degree stem.
If it helps, my stack is 685, reach 455, and my drop is -6.5cm.
Will it be possible to get the same fit with the RS frame set?
How much of my bar/stem/aerobars etc will have to be replaced?

The main reason I'm interested in this frame is the (possibly mistaken) idea that I can basically reproduce the bike I'm riding and loving, without having to $pend kajillions or buy a bunch of new gear. Please let me know if this is misguided.