Thanks for the info! I live in tucson, arizona so hopefully I can find a similar deal, if not I'll give the SF Bay Area a call.

Trislicers.

Here is a pic of my brake setup with the firecrest 808's it's a touch dusty after last weekend's race. But you should get the idea.



The white and green paint job is a custom finish. Not a factory finish.

Is anyone else having delays getting your Slice RS? I ordered mine in early Dec and it has been delayed 5 times since. The next shipment date is March 3, but i'm sure that will get pushed back again. Just curious if anyone else is having these issues.

For anyone routing Di2 cables, here is a photo of my BB shell. The SRAM/Truvativ PF30 shell won't fit with the cable guide. You need to use the FSA BBs or the Cannondale SRM versions. I swapped bars, and learned to route the Di2 cable from the bars and the battery cable through the cable guide. I managed to cram all of the other cables and Di2 junction box in the seat stays and down tube. You need to be careful with the routing, since it's hard to fit a shell in this space, and you don't want the spindle rubbing against the wires. There shouldn't be any issues with standard Shimano/SRAM mechanical shifters.



The mechanic, Candy, at Bike Religion in Newport Beach did an amazing job at putting this bike together. I have 10 years of wrenching under my belt, but couldn't have done what I did without his initial work. I'm very impressed with the Cannondale build for this bike. I've raced it twice with the stock Vision bars and can't wait to try it out with my new fit specs/

-Pete

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"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

So... I am lucky enough to have got mine... But I put my deposit down in July, and it arrived the day after Christmas. I got updates (I.e. new ship dates) every 2-3 weeks. Not sure what is up with this bike, or Cannondale. My LBS did great. Keep the faith! Or fly to Oz, and pick up Pave's Di2!

Apologies if this has been posted already, but does anyone have weights for all the SLICE RS models?

Slice RS Sram Red Black

Slice RS Ultegra DI2

Slice RS Mech Ultegra

Offical weight list from Cannondale

In saying it my 54cm blk inc slice rs weighs 8.2 with pedals garmin and cages.

Thanks Secteur.

Heavier than I wud have thought.

Yes but you cant feel it on the road. My CAAD10 at the moment in race trim (6.38kg) on a technical and hilly first half of a 14.5klm local club tri is still slower then my Slice RS.

Its the frames though. I saw some weights from Cannondale that had the Slice RS at I think from memory around 1650g for the blk inc frameset where as the Slice is 1250g in saying that a frame is static weight not rotating weight so dont stress to much. My CAAD10 after its custom repaint is 1380g yet built into a light bike. the components make a large percentage of the total weight.

On the road the bike IS FAST if it fits you......

Update on my SliceRS Ultegra Di2... First ride this weekend following my fit, and raising the front end. I did a wonderful 54mile/87k ride! Feels great and super comfortable. Fast. Fast. Fast!

So my apologies for being new (please don't haze me!), and if there is a thread about this already or this doesn't belong here, my apologies again. This was the only discussion thread about the Slice RS that I ran across in my searches.

But I have a question about the Cannondale Slice RS seat post. Not about it's look. I actually kind of like it because it's unique. It turns people's heads and makes them do a double take. I think that's a good thing. But I own the Cannondale Slice RS Hi-MOD (not the DI2 version). I have had it for about a month, and I was wondering if anyone else is having issues with the seat post slipping down and not staying at the proper height? I rode 80 miles today and stopped 4 times to pull the seat post back up to proper height. I have been having this issues for basically the entire time that I've owned it, though it took me a few weeks to notice that I was actually sitting lower than I should've been (was drastically losing power!)

Anyone have this issue? Am I the only one?

Cheers!

We don't have a frame size do we? My 2010 Slice Hi Mod 58cm with Sram Red, Zip 404, Syntace bars, Cannondale cranks, time pedals, comes in a 17lb, 8 ounces size 58cm.

Cant speak for everyone but no I dont have that issue. I just completed IM MELBOURNE on the weekend with no dramas.

Bike was awesome

Here is a pic in race kit from my last training session

looking fast!
How was the race?

Very Windy lol.

I enjoyed it though. Was my first IM so im happy to have achieved my goals.

ahhh. That's good then!
What wheels are those? Zipp 808 FC's?

Yep 808 FC with the Cannondale OEM green graphic.

Anybody have the electronic ultegra version and build it yet? Guy I'm working with is having a hard time with the junctions etc.. Says the cable version is ok but instructions for e version are lacking and has given up for now

Youd probably benefit greatly from trying out a different saddle. The lower half of your torso/hips is pointing nearly straight up because it seems the saddle isnt allowing you to roll your hips forward. Which is causing a funky bend in the middle of your back. If you could get those hips to roll forward more, you'd then be able to comfortably drop your bars a bit more as well.

Nice bike BTW. Oh, and how do you like those meles? Been looking at picking up a pair.

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"One Line Robert"

Mine was built by my local bike shop.... I admit it took them a few days extra, but they did figure it out... Pete (above) may have more insight.

@Pave, nice Melbourne race! Great pics. Btw, You need to eat more!

I haven't had an issue, I just remeasured yesterday, and put a small marker line to monitor. I did notice that the cam used to tighten has quite a bit of slack to take up when tightening. The assembly is two wedges that compress together, so tighten away. Good luck.

Excellent comments on this thread so far ...
I would love to hear any comments from ST'ers that have taken the RS on a plane ... Ie packed it in a bike box.
Were you able to disconnect the bars and twist them enuff to fit into a standard bike box (like Bike Pro) ... Or is the only option to disconnect the cables and recable post flight ... Which is a major pain in the ass :-(((
Tx for replying
sc

Why is recabling a pain. On my bike (not the same at all, though) I can undo the bolts that clamp the cables to the brakes and derailleurs, pull all of them, housing and all out of the bike and just push them in and reclamp in the same place. I might then have to make a slight RD adjuster turrn but not normally. I don't really have to do this to pack mine but its just easier to do than to try and deal withthe tangle of attached cables.

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Styrrell

With a standard road bike or an easier TT set up I would agree ...
With hidden cables, hidden brakes, integration up the ting yang and electronic shifting I surmise it may be a hassle but not unmanageable.
I havent received my RS yet so this is all speculation ... Just wanted to get real world input from ST'ers who have flown with their bike.
SC

Mine is a felt, so the hidden cables and rear brake applied. The front shouldnt be a big deals to leave on the bike and just put the bars near it.

The big issue is with a felt you just push the housing through the hole in the toptube and it exits in the proper place. Not all bike are like that and a lot of finish.

I would think that electronic would make it easier to plug and unplug.

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Styrrell