ok, my bike is in pieces, and I think I'll try this method. It is totally amazing how much friction is in that simple looking 90 degree noodle bend into the top of the head tube. Anyone else try this?

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

I guess the downside of drilling through the top plate is that any time you would need to get under that top plate you would need to release the brake cable, and potentially need to re-thread cables through the frame. Ugh. Maybe I'll set this up normal and hope for the best.

I am very curious about the brake cable routing on the '14 bikes. I can't quite believe in the tight area of the bars/stem/head tube that the cables can make those 90 degree turns.

(Seems that for those of us with Di2, this new frame would hide all the wires!)

Also note that the brake cable pops out at the BB, looks like that might reduce some of the tight bends down there.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

You might be right TriSliceRS. I'm working on a solution on my wife's Slice RS where the gear wires "rest" down in the plastic-cable-guide-bend-a-lot-thing inside the fork. In that way i'll be able to lift the carbon top plate up and do maintenance on the brake system, which is routed normally with Nokon cables, without re-cabling the whole bike. I would probably either have to release the bolt on both front and rear derailleur or leave the bike in the big-ring/big-cock and then shift down without moving the chain to allow some slack in the cable to be able to work with the brake cable inside the stem though.

Wife is getting a bike-fit this weekend and then I can finalize my little experiment. I'll post my findings here on the thread...

Does the official Cannondale representative have some input regarding those cable-bending-issues on the Slice RS mk I (2013) bikes. Quite painfull to spend so much time working on an expensive bike, just to make it work...

By the way. On the pic quoted above - doesn't the brake cable look extremely thin - could it be gearwire to make the brake release properly?

You know... IF, and I said IF, the new brake cable routing is better, perhaps we could order the Mk2 fork from Cannondale? (Shame, because after getting my back after the recall last summer they noticed a crack and I got a replacement fork)... but maybe, just maybe this new fork routing would end up with a smoother brake system. Anyone seen it in the flesh and taken off the four screw cap?

The '14 DA Di2 Slice RS fork looks to be white and black (with no blue) so the color should work.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

I just got my frame back from Cannondale under warranty. I was hoping for a 2014 frame, but happy to get a brand new frame nevertheless. What's weird is after setting my bike up, my rear brake has more power than my front. Any ideas from folks? Should I recable, try increasing spring tension on the front? Ironically, it didn't take my long to rebuild this bike now that I know what I'm doing. I've learned taping Di2 cables to an old derailleur cable really helps with routing, especially when using a strong magnet...:)

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"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

I'm a big fan of the looks of the Slice RS Black and it seems like it's getting some good reviews. However, upon getting a retul fitting I've found out that my stack and reach geometries are 562mm and 417mm, and I'm not sure if this is a bike I should consider. Any bike fitters out there have any advice as to whether the Slice RS Black 56 or 58 would be a good fit?

The 56 is 550/401 so it would be great for stack but less ideal for reach.
The 58 is 570/411 so it would be less ideal for stack but almost spot on for reach.

Would you go with any bike or would you recommend one of the sizes over the other?

OK, I figured out my own problem. It turns out the right arm of the front brake wasn't installed correctly, and there was epoxy filling all of the holes for the brake spring. I drilled out the epoxy in the holes, then reinstalled the arms with the springs in the holes furthest out. Wow...the front brake works much better now!

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"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

btw.. here are the parts I am using to go Di2 on the bullhorns...

Shimano Dura Ace 9071 Di2 TT/Reverse Brake/Shift lever
Shimano E-tube SM-EW90-B Cockpit Junction Box 5-Port

I ordered some additional e-tubes.. but not sure they are needed yet. I kind of like Secteur's use of the double junction box, since I am not sure where I can hide all this junk.

I also found some Jagwire Black Housing Liner (Fits up to 1.8mm Cables) for the recabling...

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

HELP, IT'S NOT WORKING! I plugged everything into the 5-port and it isn't coming on when I plug in the battery. If I replicate the old setup we are fine, but when I remove the old 'buttoned' switch out of the picture it won't work. Let me draw a picture, but any ideas appreciated.

edit: here is the setup.. 5-port into the original 3-port... only the original aero bar end shifters work, not the new brake levers/shifters. so... that makes me think that the new items aren't 'programmed into the system'.

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

That's odd...I just reinstalled everything on my new Slice RS frame with the same components as you. I used the 4 port junction in the chainstays to connect everything to a cable that ran up the downtube to the 5-port junction box, which connected to the shifters. Everything works fine for me. Have you taken yours to a shop to get it diagnosed the PCE1? BTW, I never used the 3-port junction which came with the bike, just the 5-port. I would also try hooking things up like you did prior to getting the 5-port junction and base bar shifters. This will help determine which components might be causing the problem. Good luck!

-Pete

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"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

You can only use 1 "A" junction in your system, choose either the 3 or 5 port. You can have multiple "B" junctions, I have 3 in my current build.

Thanks, as I've heard on this Di2 thread, apparently "The last update for the 9071 levers and most of the other etube parts was in September. So that means the 9071 levers will have newer firmware that will prevent it from working properly with your 6770 derailleurs, battery mount, and shifter. It just depends on when you updated your components' firmware last. " My firmware will be old...


I presumed this too 801pe, but perhaps without the firmware upgrade, this "5-port" is just a dumb 5-port connection device, and isn't exhibiting an "A" type personality yet. :-)

Btw... here's the setup before and after. I'll let you know when I get it working.

Before:


After:

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Sorry, my bad, I was basing what I said off the picture, not your diagram. Updating the firmware takes all of 5 minutes, LBS shouldn't charge much for that, if they do, the sm-pce1 is @170 on amazon right now. Good luck, once set up the new etube systems are very low maintenance.

Daaaammmmnnnn

Hi,

The vision crankarms are to wide for my garmin vectors.
Is it possible to use an adapter and put a dura ace 9000 crankset on my slice rs? Will the bb30 adapter fit?

Hi, if any of you are interested, I listed my NEW (unregistered) 2013 Cannondale RS Black 56 cm is for sale (NEVER RIDDEN. I didn't even install pedals).

Reason for selling: After Guru and Retul fit the bike geometries do not fit me.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=5029096;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread

Finished my winter project. New Quarq Elsa Powermeter, new brake lever/shifters with Di2, new aero bar setup (to get more of an ergo bend)... and DA pedals! And.. yes, i will be putting bar tape on. Couldn't find a good spot for the 5-port... but, hey, I am over it. Blast away if you like, but that 5-port placement (and frontal impact) is the least of my worries. :-)

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Proud member of FISHTWITCH: beating you to T1 for over a decade, and working on beating you to T2...

Hi,

I have built 4 Slice RS's and everyone of them came with a full range of stem spacers to lengthen the stem and the hardware.

what are the pad options for carbon wheels, specifically bontrager d3, bonty wants owners to use their cork.

are people cutting them down for the rear brake in the slice?

Has anyone found a way to keep the seatpost from creaking apart from massive amounts of carbon paste? I can get it not to creak for one ride, but it always comes back. Thanks!

-Pete

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"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

[URL=http://s1153.photobucket.com/...zpse0ac7d61.jpg.html][/url]

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Coach at Scientific Triathlon
http://www.scientifictriathlon.com

Hi Pete

Sounds like your seatpost is too long and touches the bottom of the "seatpost pocket" in the frame?

Grease on the metal-expander and carbon paste between frame, expander and seatpost absolutely works for me.

Could also be the saddle-mount that lacks a bit of grease?

Hope this can help you :-)

/Morten

In your opinion, how difficult is it to assemble? I live in Singapore and am really about to order a 13' model w/ Di2. I don't know how much the Cannondale shop here would charge for assembly, but there is only one in the country, so it's not like a have a bunch of options. Technically I think I am proficient (installed a few car engines, wrench on my own bike for the most part..) But have never owned a TT bike and have never put a bike together.

Are the directions/instructions/tools necessary too encompassing for someone like me to build myself?

ran into some weird spacing issues with GXP sram quarq. i had WM adapters, but they needed some spacers and grinding. Am i missing something here? What are people using to use GXP on this bike?