lol rode it once, decided then, i wanted to landis more.

new record of only* 4 hours to swap extensions LOL. GREAT excuse to buy etap





update 2/19 with flo90

So happy i got the ultegra-Di2 version....

I thought the stem clamp was to wide for those handlebars? Anyhow, nice bike!

i bought them blindly without even thinking about that , but it fits with probably 1-2mm each side of the stem. phew!

some help needed, thinking about swapping my quarq to bb30 arms.

which spacers do i need (which guide should i follow) for the slice RS and the s975 quarq?

http://www.quarq.com/...D_Road_Cranksets.pdf

thanks!

its guide BB30 I-A. Its an 11.5 mm (I think ) spacer on the drive side and a 5mm plus preload nut on the non-drive side.

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Andy Mullen
Team Zoot

Does anybody know what kind/size socket I need to remove the rear brakes? And where I might procure one? It's some weird 10-pt star bolt.

A regular hex works.

Edit: see post http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=5684632#5684632

Can anybody give a detailed description of how to do this? I've got my bike stripped down to the bare frame and yesterday I started to build it back up. When I tried to reinstall the front brakes, I inserted the long side of the spring into the middle hole on the fork, but there is virtually no tension, which makes me think I'm missing a step.

Ok, so I figured out how to reset the springs.

But in the process of re-attaching the rear brakes, I sheared the head off of one of those weird bolts. (yes, I was using a torque wrench. Yes, it was set correctly. Yes, I know how to use it.) Cannondale's illustrious customer service refuses to even tell me what the part is without going through a dealer. Does anybody know what the name of this bolt is? Surely, they can be ordered on the internet?

why even bother with a funky 10 sided bolt. Replace it with something else from the hardware store.

because it's a "sex" bolt that serves as the female anchor for the fairing that goes over the bottom bracket and rear brakes.

eh the fairing is a pain too dont use it. a bike with no fairing is better than a bike with no rear brake. or just ask the dealer. maybe they have a spare one they can ship u.

For the record, I went to my dealer. They reached out to Cannondale and were told that the only way to get one of these bolts was to purchase a whole rear-brake kit for $200. I am exceedingly unhappy with Cannondale right now.

Nathonong thanks for your opinion.

Does anybody have a productive response to my question?

your spaceship still grounded bruh?


hella ski bend illest bicycle spaceship jagged milkbar rapha dengfu

Hey! Just purchased an RS frame and I am in the process of building it up!

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

build it up tight.

Whew... glad I found this resource!

So... I've had rear brake 'dramas' before but thought I'd pretty much sorted it...

Until I got a brand shiny new sub 9 :( Removed 808 rear and put in disc.

Well of course it rubbed but loosened off the cable and it was fine in the workstand but then rubbed on the road (after reading through all 17 pages I know this is normal).

So... decided to adjust grub screws to recenter things. Of course its here that it all goes to pot!

After fiddling with the non drive side (cause the drive side is a pain) I eventually loose all tension from that brake arm (I suspect I either backed out the screw too much or wound it in too much... I do have a tendancy to the 'get a bigger hammer' approach)

Anyway, not to be deterred I get the user manual and commence disassembly. This proceeds more or less ok (seems to be a stripped head on one of the smaller screws that holds the cover in place but nothing major).

Remove brake arm (which was kinda lose). ensure spring is the hole (its in the outside-most hole) and then line it up with hole in the brake arm and put humpty together again. Still no tension.

Is there a crucial step I'm missing?

Whilst admitting defeat and taking it back to a shop is always an option I suspect that here in Singapore mine would be the only slice RS that even Cannondale Asia have seen let alone anyone else.

Also, are there more detailed instructions somewhere than the (somewhat useless) User manual?

Mines the 2013 Black (so older style vision bars and brakes - won't fit the nice adjustable SRAM ones :( )

so you've done a lot of the work on your bike yourself? I need help routing cables

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

brake rub isn't normal.

u might be able to find spare naero brake parts online, but it seems like a local shop (regardless of seeing slice RS) would be able to help.

The slice RS def needs patience when installing stuff on it. For my first shot at switching my bars and recabling the whole bike.... i probably had 15-20 hours wrapped up in this lol. Just buying cable housings, trying cables, making sure cables weren't crossing inside, redoing some of those brake clear sleeves' etc etc etc. And eventually did nokon housings for brakes


just take your time and start with new cables and visiontech drag-on for brakes

Does anyone on here happen to know how to go about finding the internal cable guide for the front of the bike? its number 4 on all of the front end diagrams and I do not have it on my frame

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ART, MDT, DNS, MPI, FST

uhhhh u might need to contact a cannondale dealer for that

I just noticed that my fork was loose. When applying the front brake and pushing the bike forward, the flex was noticeable. Upon inspection I found that the lower bolt holding the fork to the frame was finger-loose. Tightening it by hand removed the flex.

After getting a 14 mm hex socket, I removed the lower bolt for inspection. It was greased, with no sign of thread-lock (as specified in the manual). The upper bolt was still tight, but not hard to remove, and in the same condition.

Reinstalled with the recommended thread-locker, and all seams fine.

Has anyone else encountered this? I wonder who assembled the fork, as it apparently was not done according to the manual...

You can get a set of front and rear brakes from Bikewagon for $44.99. It comes the caliper mounting bolts.

http://results.bikewagon.com/search?w=slice%20rs

Have you had any luck finding the internal cable guide? I need to get my hands on one.

Remove brake arm and ensure spring plate is in correct position so that the grub tension screw can be wound in completely.

Insert short end of spring into tension plate then mount on cantilever boss and rotate so that long end of spring lines up with whichever hole you want use on the frame(It's easier to do this step with brake pads removed or twisted vertically to avoid interference with the frame).

Once you get the spring into the frame you should be able to feel tension when twisting brake arm into correct position. Be careful that spring does not dislodge from spring plate or you won't get any tension. If it is mounted correctly but no tension you might need to swap springs to opposite sides.

With both sides mounted, install brake cable so you can apply brakes. Both brake arms should move and spring back. If one side is not moving you might want to try reducing tension by moving spring to a different hole in the frame (mine are set with one in the middle hole and the other in the inner hole).

Once you get both sides working, reinstall brake pads and put wheel on. You might need to adjust brake cable tension once wheel is installed. Use the small grub tension screws to fine tune brake alignment, so if brakes seem to sit slightly to one side when released, release a bit of tension from that side. If you wind that grub screw out too far the spring plate will be able to rotate to much and you will not have any tension. If this happens you must remove brake arm and start again.