Hi Dave,

Just checking, is that 56mm between centres or a 56mm gap?
I think I've about 25mm exposed bar between the clamps which I'd imagine is 50-55mm between centres (haven't measured).

Exposed extension

Great, thanks!
Glad to know I've a bit more to play with should I need to adjust.

specialized aero fuel cell, fitted to my new IA14.
i used a drimmel, to cut the buttom part of the fuel cell, and the mounting bracket. then i used some spacers to get the right angel, when mounted.
Now i just need some warmer weather so i can try it out.
What do you think?

I heard these things are super heavy? Which add that weight to the IA this becomes more tankish than ever. I just don't quite understand the point. It's not to hard to just throw a few bottles behind the saddle and put one between the bars and refill at aid if needed

I don't know what it weighs but I can't see why it should need to weigh much more than a bottle/cage etc.
Besides, it's not for liquid is it? It's for repair kit and/or gels I thought?

I've been planning to do my own solutions to the calpac and a repair kit holder for nearly a year now and still haven't gotten around to it. Any day now......

Your right. I thought these held water, that is my bad.

I cut the bottom of the existing calcpac and sticked (with metal tape) a plastic bad to it that now goes into the Frame (behind the steering wheel/fork). In that bag, I have all my spare parts as inside the Frame, there is plenty of space. the lowest Item in the bag is the tube with a lash attached so I only can pull it out and don't have to try to get it with my fingers. It's a perfect solution as there is nothing attached to the perfect aero Frame outside and as mentioned, there is plenty of space inside the Frame.
In case of an emergeny, I only have to remove the cover of the calcpac and the Gels stored and pull my lash to get everything out!

hey sweeney, just wondering if you had heard anything else about this

Spring is just around the corner. I don't see anything. If it is announced we will probably see it here.

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

Been meaning to post finished IA16, stripped components and put them on old frame. Some simple custom work for TriRig bars/stem to go without housing to brake and a QR draft box. Yes, that is a fatty training tire (25/28 Specialized Roubaix Pro) on the back with zero rubbing.

Absolutely have nothing but good things to say about this bike after several rides!

Dave, thanks for answering these the questions even though you are no longer with Felt. Youre a great resource and another reason why the Slowtwitch community is great.

ktm520, I was wondering how close the front brake cable comes to the head tube? Is there any impact on brake function with the cable entering the TriRig brake at an angle like that?

Valid question and a concern I had as well and I am an anal engineering type:)

Here is a better pic to show angle of pull. There is zero lower kick in the wedge and no sticking whatsoever. I will keep an eye on wedge track to see if there is disproportionate wear over time. Here is a close up to show angle better.

Hello folks!

Great forum! This thread encouraged me to buy a IA 14 bike.

It's an amazing bike.

But after a few rides I noticed a small chip on the top of the fork, on the border near the head tube. Picture follows.

Is this normal? Should I be worried?

That is not normal. But it is probably not worth worrying about. That area is pretty heavily reinforced, I think with a metal plate. So, the chip is likely just cosmetic. I would show it to your Felt dealer for an opinion. Who knows, they may see it as a warranty issue and replace the fork for you.

How did you get the cable to clear the nose of the head tube? Did you route the cable out that smaller hole that is in front of the larger front brake cable hole/stop? If so, did you do anything special to route the cable housing and fashion a stop inside the base bar area?

Yes, I used the most forward hole, not the one that is normally used with TriRig shouldered cable stop. The hole is large enough for a cable. I didn't want to drill the stem so I made a shoulder on the inside with a stainless collar centered over the hole (see picture) that had an ID that was slightly larger than housing end cap OD to serve as stop. Some 2 part epoxy around outer base and it is solid. I am sure it is not TrigRig approved but I am confident it is fine as material (stem) has not been compromised. Time needs to be taken using good quality cable housing and use of flexible brake noodle or linked housing to enter shoulder perpendicular minimizing lateral forces on collar. I can always go back to housing through primary. BTW the actuation is actually better with this than when I did it with housing to fork mount stop.

An alternative is to discuss with TriRig about using their shouldered stop, but I can't imagine they would bless drilling the stem (or doing what I did for that matter), and I don't fault them for that. Perhaps in future designs they could have several exits for their stop.

To be clear, that forward hole should NOT be used as a cable stop! It has a much thinner wall than the actual cable stop hole. The forward hole is only for lining up the aero spacers. It has not been tested for the purpose of use as a cable stop and may not be not safe for that purpose. You are taking a big unnecessary risk with your own safety by doing that. If the wall cracks or fails, you could immediately lose your ability to stop the bike, and/or your bar/stem could fail over time.

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TriRig.com

Completely understand the statement (disclaimer) and would do the same in your position. I will say my micrometer or measuring must be off because it specs the same for me... so you tapered the wall thickness for back to front of stem?

No. The wall at the actual cable stop is something like 5-6mm thick. The forward hole for the spacer alignment is maybe 1.5mm thick.

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TriRig.com

Hi,
Could someone please post a couple of really good pictures of the rear brake on their IA 14, specifically the bolt and washer set up going through to secure the pad, mine were removed due to a problem and now i cannot get the set up right, if i use all the washers (which were on before being removed) the pads are touching the rim etc, so i just want to see what everyone else's looks like please - the nearest bike shop is several hundred kilometres away so I have to do this myself.
Thankyou

What size QBox will fit a 56cm IA10? Would I need to do any sort of alteration to make it fit?

Brilliant calpac mod! Can I a close shot of what the magnets install looks like? What kind of magnets and where did you get them? A quick review of how you did it would be nice. (I'm not that mechanically adept) Definitely something that I want to do!

http://a63.tinypic.com/2vlv12o.jpg
http://a68.tinypic.com/2nl5j6g.jpg

Here's a couple pics of my recently built IA 10 size 54 with Tririg alphaX, omegaX front and rear, the specialized fuselage cal PAC mod, and a 54 Qbox. I you can see it sits above the top tube line, so if you want it even I would recommend going down a size from your frame size.