You guys still happy with the IA16? I'm contemplating getting one as it seems like the best value for a quality bike that tests very aero. Also been thinking of a used P4 or P5 to build up.....

I absolutely love my IA16. If I broke my frame, I would buy a new one without hesitation. I totally love the P5, but the cost is still very high, even for used. Plus, the brakes on the P5 could be a hassle if you break the bike down for travel regularly. I do not think the P4 supports the latest wider wheels and tires, so that would be a deal-killer for me.

Still extremely happy with mine. I wish it had been in the Superbike Shootout. I'll bet it could hang pretty close to the much more expensive choice for less than a third the money. Mine, with a Hed3 and disc, I know I'm not giving anything away on the bike.

Sure I wish they'd resolve the calpak/draft box issues, but I don't plan on getting a new tri bike for a long time.

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

Hey guys, another question - the felt website lists the weights for both the IA FRD, and the IA 1. Both have the hidden brake.
It shows a weight difference of almost 2 pounds between the two modules (not complete bike).

IA1 - 8.86 pounds
IA FRD - 6.98 pounds

Is that accurate?! Is it an apples to apples comparison, or do the two modules come with different parts??

Definitely accurate... And an extra 7k or so.

The use totally different carbon layup... The frd uses textreme and a different carbon layup, while the ia is all carbon. The weight difference really is from the frame.

The difference in MSRP between the 2 modules is about 2600. Its a lot, but not 7k. And R&A has an FRD module (2015) on sale for 4500...

My bad, the whole bike used to be about 8k vs 15k.

Thanks for the correction (and I love my FRD)

All I can tell you is that the IA16 is a heavy bike. Very fast bike but a heavy bike.

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

True, but a great deal of the weight is in some very heavy components, especially the wheels and crankset. I shaved almost 3 lbs. from my IA16 with the following upgrades over the past year...

• Flo 60/90 CC wheels - 419g reduction
• Omega X front brake - 56g reduction
• Ultegra FD & RD - 39g reduction
• SRAM Red 22 crankset - 368g reduction
• Alpha X Cockpit - 424g reduction
• TOTAL - 1,306g reduction (2.9 lbs.)

See the huge Di2 sticking out on my 3T Revo bars; does anyone know of a smaller option than the stock shifters. I looked around but haven't seen any good choices.

don't the buttons go on the wheel side?

Unless you have really long thumbs, you can't comfortably put the buttons on the inside because of the way you hand sits on the bar and then you would be moving your hand all around to reach the button which defeats the whole purpose of the bar of keeping your hands on and locked in with this reverse design. Using the index finger is very natural feeling and the hand stays fixed.

Only other thought is to glue a climbing shifter to the bar. Or hack apart a shifter to get only the shifter buttons.

Still, it would need to be glued down.

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Alex Arman

Strava

Glue? C'mon man. No bueno.

Anyone have the dura ace shifter and if so is it a lot slimmer than ultegra?

Nah, same size. Just a carbon lever.

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Alex Arman

Strava

Hi there, had the same problem on day 1.
You have two options.
1) Get a long screw , the difflock centre is threaded from side to side.
b) Get a new 3T saddle with the same difflock, I ordered and tested one and it works but chose to go with option 1.

Cheers

Dave, any thoughts on how to get a further saddle set back on this bike? My ISM PN2.1 saddle is literally as far back as can go and still not far enough, been struggling to come up with a solution besides reverting to a traditional saddle. as the Flet/3T master I figure you are the only person who might have a solution

No, the IA seatpost was not conceived like many TT frames that share UCI legal and triathlon duties requiring a very wide range of saddle positions. The IA has a steep seat tube angle and a narrow clamp that allows the saddle to fit in that 3-4cm range that most consumers fall into. The 3T VR saddle clamp is a very low profile clamp which allows the widest range of possible positions for a given saddle rail length. The VM mount on the IA seapost which was never commercially available on the IA might give you 2-3mm.

There are no alternatives to a given saddle to provide more offset (fore or aft) for the IA, you'll likely need to hunt for a new saddle that has your sit bone position further back than where you sit on the ISM. Perhaps Cobb, Spesh, PRO, SMP, or Dash would work?

Good luck,
SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

ianpeace, do you have anyway to charge your DI2 system with the DI2 junction box in the stem? I thought the stem couldn't hide a junction box but obviously wrong!

There's a hole in the side of the stem where one could plug in the Di2 charger without dismantling it. There's also a smaller hole on the other side of the stem - not 100% sure what the intent is there. Now.....I discovered all that AFTER the build and I know I'm gonna have to get into it soon for a recharge. I'm thinking I'll stick a dental tool in the small hole and position the junciton box so that I can plug the charger thru the larger hole. Had I realized what that was all about during the build I would have made sure it was lined up before I clamped the bar into place.

Ian

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Ian Murray
http://www.TriathlonTrainingSeries.com
I like the pursuit of mastery
Twitter - @TriCoachIan

Hi all, I'm thinking of investing in a Felt IA (either IA1 framekit or IA4 full bike) and have a few questions

- I'd like to use the storage box at the front for my spares and I race on tubs. Could I fit a spare tub (really small 21 track tub) + CO2 + small multitool + tyre lever in there? I race with gels in an aero bottle on the frame and then a BTA bottle for water that I change at each aid station so if I could get my spares in the frame there would be nothing sticking out in the wind.
- I'm aware that the brake levers have a built in barrel adjuster but I'd be changing the groupset for Ultegra Di2 off my old bike, could I buy the sattelite climbing shifters and run them out by the standard brake levers..... I've read that the climbing shifters don't have enough spare wire to run them all the way out to the end of the base bar? If possible I'd like to retain the barrel adjuster brake levers as I swap between wide firecrest rims and normal rims
- Is the IA1 framekit the same frame as the IA4 full bike? I've read that it is the same frame but the framekit is the same price as the full bike so I dont know if that can be right?
- I have a 24mm axle powermeter but the Felt IA is BB30 isnt it? I think there are conversion BB's so I can retain my current powermeter does anyone else use these?
- Are the brakes any good?

Thanks all

1) No chance... I just tested a plain butyl tube and that wont fit.
2) Im still riding mechanical ... can't say?
3)From everything I have read IA1 and IA4 are the same frameset
4) 24mm powermeter, no problem
5) Totally exist.. examples bottom brackets ,ceramicspeed and hawk racing both make a bb30.24 bracket
6) Brakes Initial brakes got beat up a lot. Then they replaced the arms with ceramic and the increased the strength of the spring...I think the brakes have been great since then.

Many thanks for the info but I'm gutted you can't even get an inner tube in there. I've read elsewhere of someone fitting an inner tube/multitool/co2/tyre lever in the cavity so I assumed it would be ok as my spare tub is only a little bigger than a standard inner tube. Do you think it would make a difference if you took out the box and removed the bottom? I've read that this is possible - giving access to the ample void within the frame?

Im sure that would make a difference(removing the bottom)... And maybe someone had a better way to shove the tube in than I did ...I did not fight it for very long...

can the box be removed from the frame easily enough or is it bonded in?