Really thanks for the information. Just try to sit on the frame of IA 16 in the shop today, it feels better than my expectation. So the shop will help me to do more extensive fitting when I make a purchase, may adjust the height of the saddle and adjust the reach through aerobar,hope it works.

Can you make us one? I'm not a huge fan of the silicone soft cover.

I would strongly suggest getting an independent fitter to recommend a frame size. A shop will almost invariably end up trying to make something work that they stock, can get easily or make a good margin on. You're as likely to end up with what it suits them to sell as what will suit you to ride. Some shops, I'm sure, are very honest and we'll intentioned; but there is still a bias even if it's subconscious. Other shops most definitely try to sell what suits them and don't care a damn whether it's a good choice for the customer ...and there's lots in between.
Many fitters will do an initial fitting to recommend some frame options and then a follow up after you've bought it to set you up correctly. It might cost $100- $200 but it's money well spent. Seriously.
Better than the real risk of buying an expensive unsuitable bike and either living with it or selling it at a loss to correct the mistake.
You're better off getting a cheaper bike or postponing an aero helmet or any planned upgrades if necessary to pay for a fitting. Or if cost isn't an issue, just do it!

Whatever route you take, good luck and enjoy your tri bike!

Works well. Just a bit of a pain to install with Allen wrenches.Very aero,

I want to second Ai_1's advice. You need to be fit FIRST by a reputable fitter and on a dynamic fit bike. Once your position is optimized by that process then you can see if the Felt will work and if so what size bike it would be and...most importantly...what the front end configuration will be.

If you want. Tell me the general area in which you live and I can do some research to find a fitter that's right for you.

Ian

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Ian Murray
http://www.TriathlonTrainingSeries.com
I like the pursuit of mastery
Twitter - @TriCoachIan

Can anyone give me a quick step by step how to flip my IA16 base bar? I am just starting to do my own wrenching at home and just want to make sure what I am thinking is right. Any help would be appreciated

It shouldn't be that hard:

1. remove extension clamps and let extensions hang by the cables.

2. remove brake cables.

3. loosen brake levers.

4. remove base bar from stem clamp and flip over.

5. flip base bar and reinstall.

6. spin brake levers and pads.

7. reinstall extensions.

8. reinstall brake cables.

9. ride.

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

Yep, That looks about right.
It might be advisable to replace the brake cables. Having been clamped in the brake units, the cable ends may not go back in smoothly without fraying or damaging the outer liners.

I'm not sure how comfortable the bar will be in some positions after being inverted. The join between the wing and the cylindrical elements of the basebar doesn't look very ergonomic when inverted. However, that's just my recollection. I haven't tried it or looked at it carefully with invertion in mind. Perhaps your hands don't rest on that portion of the bar at all?

To add;

when installing rear brake cable, don't run it through the stem.

There seems to be no reason for this other than to say that they did it. After a year, my rear cable inner and outer was all chewed up where it went throught the stem.

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''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law

While I did route through the stem I used a different (jagwire left over from another build) inner and outer that had more flex and hence was a much easier install.

I suspect it is a combination of aerodynamics and aesthetics. I like the clean look, but routing the cable between the stem cap and steer tube is a stupid idea.

Thank you everyone for the advice. I have found the fitter to help me for fitting, thanks a lot!

any news from Felt on a fix or redesign for the calpac?

exxxviii said: Front brake to Omega X

I can tell you from doing wind tunnel testing the Tri Rig Omega X vs the stock Vision tech brake the aero difference between the two is at most ~ the distance of the BB to front edge of the front tire over 40k.

Unless you do not like the stopping power of the VT brake, which I found to be very good, there is no aerodynamic reason to switch brakes

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Brian Stover USAT LII
Accelerate3 Coaching
Insta

Are you referring to the Vision Trimax on the IA10 or the generic dual-pivot front brake on the IA16?

The IA16 front brake is a far cry from the stock brake on the IA10. I do not know who provides the IA16 front brake, but I do not think it is Vision Tech.

C'mon! The Omega X looks so damn good. If I can't see it, neither can the wind.

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just your average age grouper . no one special . no scientific knowledge . just having fun.

Vision Trimax aerobrake.

EDIT: I didn't know how far down the line that brake got stocked vs a regular brake

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Brian Stover USAT LII
Accelerate3 Coaching
Insta

So, short of race wheels (Which alot of us already have) and some big bucks on perhaps a faster bar (Although I believe the stock bar has reasonable aero numbers?), theres not much to really improve on, on the IA10 chassis?

Yep, the IA10 and IA14 are very clean aero bikes with only marginal opportunity for improvement.

unless you count the engine, then there's always room for improvement ;)

No argument there! :)

The Felt IAxx's are one of the maybe 3-4-5 bikes I typically recommend when people ask which bike should they get. It's probably the best bang for the buck right out of the box

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Brian Stover USAT LII
Accelerate3 Coaching
Insta

I've had a bit of inspiration on the Calpac, which has worked really well. I'll upload some pics and a video if anyone is interested?

What I've done, is replaced the clasp to hold it shut with magnets. So instead of trying in vain to get it to clip shut while riding, when you stop holding the rubber flap up to get something out, it just springs down and stays in place under magnetic force. A small pull and it's open, but only when you want it, not randomly like before. In doing this it's also able to cut the rubber entry further along, which makes it easier to get things from inside...

It isn't dissimilar to the iMac magnetic charging concept, albeit with a little stronger magnetic force.

Like I say, if you're interested, I'll upload something.

Certainly interested :)

I am very interested! I've lost 2 calpacs already (Felt replaced one under warranty, I haven't gone to them about the second yet). So anything that helps hold it in better would be great.