I'm interested to know to.

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If you are sure you will fail, or convinced you will succeed, you are probably right.....

Damon,

Anyone working on a 5 deg or so tilt mount, or do you have any suggestions on best way to achieve that? I really don't care for completely flat armrests, as i want a bit of upward angle to forearms. yeah, you can do it on flat armrests, but slightly angled would be more comfy. Dont want to put stress on carbon armrests in a way they were not designed.

Sure, right now we've got a couple of advanced packs, the Speedpack 480D and 483D. More info can be found at the links in our signature line below. And here's a pic for you, a 483D mounted on a hot P5-six.



thanks,
Greg @ dsw

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Hello Jnags7 and All,

This aero solution works nicely for storage under your seat:

http://www.shop.view-speed.com/...age-610098715993.htm



Cheers,


Neal


+1 mph Faster

Hi Jnags7,
Sorry replied in pm to all the queries here.
Xlab is coming out with a better version of the storage.
Lets all wait for the release.
Thanks!

Hi Jeff,

We designed the Aduro for level arm pads only. I would be willing to bet a few millimeters under just one of the mounting bolts might be okay, but to be honest we've not tested in any configuration other than level.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Damon,
I had finally obtained a FSA riser kit (12mm) to raise the arm pad of Aduro.
I gave it into trial, for the base bar as well as the P5-six original thinner plate to mount a Torpedo bottle gauge.
Then, I could see a few thinner abrasion on surface of the both parts, caused by the iron riser parts.
I don't mind the scratch, but I'd like to know if there's no problem to keep using it from the strength point of view.
Especially, I wonder if the thinner plate may be cracked or broken. Is this a high module carbon material, isn't this ?

Yup! I got mine in time for IM Kalmar.

Damon, All,

Just having an issue with the Magura brakes on the P5-3.
In order to get the caliper wide enough to accommodate 2013 Hed Jet wheels, my mechanic had to bleed a little fluid out. However, the brake levers are now less responsive. There is too much travel in the brake levers to the point where the levers almost touch the bullhorns when stopping the bike. And yet the brake blocks are only 1-2 from the Jet rim as they should be. If I used the adjuster screw to "tighten" the brakes to achieve less brake lever travel, then the brake blocks would rub on the rims.
Has anyone else had this problem please? One solution would be to file down the brake blocks a bit and then screw in the brake adjuster. I know that the brakes work better for me when the calipers are closed slightly with the adjuster, and so filing the blocks down would allow me to screw in the adjuster and get a more responsive brake. I know this because when I use a narrower (training) wheel than the Jets and then screw in the adjuster accordingly, then the brakes are much more responsive.
Help please!
John

Hi hirochan,

Nice! The FSA riser parts are a good fit with your Aduro. There can naturally a little movement, which as you noticed, can cause some cosmetic scratches. These are okay, no problem structurally for the handlebar.

The carbon in the bar is high-strength fibre, not high-modulus, because the handlebar is a strength-critical sructure, not stiffness-critical. High-modulus fibre would be stiffer, but more brittle, and more importantly, lower strength. So we chose high-strength.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi johnny,

This is a common complaint - the brake shoes have to be set very close. Your shop did the right thing to let out a little oil so the shoes open up for the wide rims; just be sure there's no air inside or you'll get spongy braking action. Doesn't sound like that's the case, but it's easy to bleed and be sure.

If the calipers seem to work better with the adjuster a little tighter, as you mention, that could be a sign that there could be mechanical backlash in the system between the lever and the shoes. If so, gently turn the adjuster only enough to take up any tiny amount of free play at the lever, so all your lever movement goes into closing the brake shoes, not taking up free play.

Filing the brake shoes is no problem, if that helps, then go for it. However just so you know, the caliper's mechanical leverage doesn't actually change, since the tri-wedge which drives the arms open at the top has a constant slope.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks Damon.

Hi,
Just wondering whats the lowest ARM PAD STACK possible on that size please?
CAN the 48 cm ARM PAD REACH be possible also?
cheers

Any timeframe for this release Candice?

Damon,

I am currently having some issues with my P5 and seat post slip. I do ride on rough roads, with lots of minor potholes and it does create a lot of vibration and small impacts. On smooth roads, no problems, but I do have significant issues on the above mentioned rough roads. I have been using Tacx assembly compound on the post and clamp, but there is still movement. Is there any thing I should take a look at to see what is causing a not secure fit?

My old P3 used on the same roads had no issues, so I'm assuming it's more specific to the new frame.

Thanks,
Chris

Hi Chris,

Sorry your post is slipping. As you noticed, the mechanism is similar to the long-running P2 and P3, and it's normally bullet proof. Here are a couple basic points to check (you might already be doing some of them):

• Is there a gap between the clamp and frame? In other words, the clamp is actually tightening against the post, not the frame?
• Using Tacx Dynamic carbon assembly paste between the post and frame?
• Using plenty of grease on the bolts' threads *and* heads (where they turn against the clamp)?
• Correct torque on both bolts? Should be 4.5 to 5 Newton meters.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Chris,

I had that same issue. It was very frustrating and we could not figure it out. We did everything - torqued, pasted, etc. So, the head shop mechanic and I decided we were going to figure this thing out since no one else was having this problem. What we found was that the was a small piece of tape/paper from the mold process left stuck inside the seat tube. I was about as wide as electrical tape, about 2 inches long, and paper in texture. Once we got that out, re-did steps similar to what Damon outlined, it is now rock solid. Since this setup is so solid (and vastly improved over my P3) I think need need to assume an anomaly such as mine. I sure hope it works out for you like it did me.

Thanks,

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David
* Ironman for Life! (Blog) * IM Everyday Hero Video * Daggett Shuler Law *
Disclaimer: I have personal and professional relationships with many athletes, vendors, and organizations in the triathlon world.

I have been wanting to experiment with this as well; the completely level pads plus very thin 3T armpads plus me sweating leads to a lot of "feeling" like I am slipping forward constantly. A couple of mm of upward tilt would be huge.

Tried anything yet?

Hi James,

As I mentioned, we haven't tested methods to accomplish any tilt, but obviously the two bolts could be spaced differently. Perhaps you or Jeff could try adding a washer or two to under the front bolt? I'm also imagining something like maybe a tapered spacer (wood? epoxy putty?) as long as the bolts still engage & tighten well and the plate is supported.

Just remembered the old Profile pads that used to mount with a single M5 bolt through a ball and socket joint for tilting in any direction. Something like that could also work.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

What is that box you have mounted in the bottom bracket area? I have not seen that product in the US, as far as I know. I want one.

Chris10 wrote:

What is that box you have mounted in the bottom bracket area? I have not seen that product in the US, as far as I know. I want one.

It's a handmade custom fabrication from a fellow ST member campled. It definitely brought attention from the other P5 owners. I can fit a tube, tire leavers, multi-tool and a spare CO2 canister in there, and still have room for other stuff if need be.

Damon,
You're probably going to refer me to Magura, but I was wondering if you could help me... The barrel adjuster on my rear brake seems to have gone missing. Went to make an adjustment and it wasn't there... no idea when it disappeared. I know I had it a few weeks ago, but didn't need to make any changes. Am I going to need a new brake?

Thanks,
DDT

I put a small washer, took off some brakes and put under my zipp wing extenders. so now it is angled up slightly. not the best solution, but should help with the feeling of sliding forward some.

will test it out tomorrow and race sunday if if feels good and is stable.

Hi denali,

If you mean the master cylinder's adjuster screw inside the brake lever, it's possible to screw it too far inward, at which point it can completely disengage from the nut. That's beyond the recommended adjustment range (maximum is with the end of the adjuster screw flush with the nut, that is, all the threads still engaged). It's difficult but not impossible to re-engage those threads (that's how Magura assembles the lever).

If that's what you're seeing, it means the brake shoes need a washer or two to bring them closer to the rim, rather than using the adjustment at the lever. Just add a millimeter or two to each side, between the brake pad holder and the caliper arm. Might be able to simply move a washer from outside the arm to inside the arm.

Here's Magura's manual with pictures:
https://www.magura.com/...-tt-1/downloads.html
Click on "Workshop manual RT brakes" to download the PDF.

Illustration H2 (on page 9) shows the adjusting screw.

The written instructions are on page 21, called "Setting the pressure point."

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Yes, that's exactly the problem. I must've turned the adjuster screw too far and it came undone or got knocked out. Do you think most shops will be able to replace it? I have NO idea where the screw is now, unfortunately. Probably lying in a ditch off 9W or in Central Park somewhere, unfortunately.