Thanks (for the answer and having understand my question despite "battery" instead of "stem" in the sentence)

Hello Damon,

Can you confirm (or to make me happy, unconfirm) me that :
1) - the X-low stem is no longer purchasable as a spare part ?
2) - the X-low stem is necessarly unsafe ?

Thanks

what is the quickest way to get a replacement lever for the magura brakes my lbs and i are trying to figure this out. was having issues with rear lever and after this last bleed the plastic parts inside lever broke. im really stessing and i have IMAZ next weekend.

Hi Nick

1) Confirmed.
2) Confirmed.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi frankienm,

Have your shop contact Magura USA directly. Awesome customer service from this company in our experience.

http://www.maguradirect.com/about-us.html

Have a great time at IMAZ,

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

thanks so much my lbs got a hold of them directly a few moments after i posted and they are over nighting the piece so i should have it friday sometime. their website was not so great to work around but we found a number to call and had a lot of help. guy ran around looking for the piece for us. thanks again.

Hi frankienm,

That's great news, glad to hear it. Agreed, when in a hurry, picking up the phone is usually better!

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

mates new rig, da9071, zipp 808, dash disc weighs 8.1kg as shown.

Thanks Damon ;-(

I'm considering putting a 9070 Di2 on a P5-Six.
1) Did anyone with the same configuration tried to use the additional shifters (SW-R610 ou SW-R600) near the handlebars hoods to add the shifting possibilities when hands are on the Magura Levers ?
2) Did anyone hacked the di2 with the cateye buttons ?

Thanks in advance

1) Not sure
2) Yes: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...um.cgi?post=4554409;

I'm 6'7", with a 36" inseam. I currently ride a P2 thinking that the P3 would not have given me the fit I needed, although that was speculation. Now, I'm really diggin' the P5. Does the P5 have the range of fit for such a tall person (i.e., at least as much as the P2, if not more)?

Hi Floyd,

Thanks, I'm diggin' my P5 too. ;-)

Your P2 fits bigger than the old P3 by the equivalent of 15mm more headset spacers. This shows up in the geometry charts as about 15mm more stack and about 5mm less frame reach. So you're right, if you don't have room to add 15mm of spacers in your P2's headset (or arm pad spacers, etc.), you couldn't have fit on the old P3.

Moving to today's Cervelos, the P5 (and the new P3) fits bigger than the old P3 by the equivalent of 25mm more headset spacers. This shows up in the geometry charts as about 24mm more frame stack and about 8mm less frame reach.

To bring the comparison to your P2 instead of the old P3, we can say:
In the medium and large sizes, the P5 (and the new P3) fit bigger than your P2 by the equivalent of 10mm more headset spacers. This shows up in the geometry charts as about 10mm more frame stack and about 3mm less frame reach.

Bottom line: If you can lose 10mm of spacers somewhere in your P2 (headset, arm pads, etc.), you can match your fit on a P5 (or new P3).

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks. All this geometry stuff is very confusing to me.


... as about 24mm more frame stack and about 8mm less frame reach.


Does this mean that I'll have more room for my legs (because I'll be higher), but that I'll be more scrunched in my back and where the arms sit on the aero pads?


Bottom line: If you can lose 10mm of spacers somewhere in your P2 (headset, arm pads, etc.), you can match your fit on a P5 (or new P3).

I'm not sure what you mean by "if you can lose 10mm of spacers ..." I took this to mean that because the P5 is naturally bigger than the P2, if I have 20mm of spacers on my P2, then I'll only need 10mm of spacers on the P5 to match my current fit. But, if I only have 7mm of spacers on the P2, then because I don't have 10mm to lose I might want to consider moving to a smaller size. ???

Does anyone know if the Shimano seatpost battery, SM BTR2 will fit in the P5 seat post?

Hi Floyd,

Geometry can indeed be confusing. I'm visual, and geometry is visual, so this text environment isn't my natural way of communicating this. But I try anyway. ;-)

So:
Stack is measured vertically, and reach is measured horizontally. I make the analogy to headset spacers because often folks are familiar with adding or removing those. But headset spacers raise the stem along the fork steerer, which isn't purely vertical, it's a little diagonal: as the stem goes up, it also goes back. Hence it raises the stem and bars vertically (stack), and decreases their position horizontally (reach).

You're asking the right questions. I'm not suggesting more leg room; assuming you're basically happy with your current fit, you'd want to set up your new bike's saddle in the same spot as your old one: adjust the seat post in the frame for height, and adjust the seat long the top of the seat post for horizontal position. Likewise, arm room or scrunched back shouldn't be an issue. Again, assuming you're happy with your current body position, the only changes we're discussing are the mechanical bits (like spacers) that would need to be changed to make your new P5 match your current P2.

You're right on the money with the idea of losing spacers. Like most people, you have a choice between more than one frame size. If you only have 7mm to lose, eh, what's 3mm among friends? ;-) Or, as you suggest, you could go down a size. You can break this "tie" by thinking ahead: in the future, are you more likely to want your bars lower or higher? If lower, then choose the smaller size, where you'll have a few spacers you could remove. If higher, then chose the larger size.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Very helpful, thanks.

Let me just add that I'm humbled that I'm talking to an actual engineer from the bike company of my choice. I love this. It's one reason that I have 2 Cervélos now and I'm really only focused on the P5 as my next bike. Another reason is that your group is making great bikes. Well done, sir.

Many thanks and in your link there seem to be a partial answer at my first question. (use of the SW-R600 would prevent to upload the firmware completely and correctly ;-()

Hi Floyd,
Thanks for the kind words. I love helping out, and I'm lucky Cervelo gives me the time to participate on Slowtwitch. Glad Cervelo is your bike company of choice!
Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Damon,
I want to second what was said before (in case Cervelo ever wants to reassess your time spent on slowtwitch): Your availability and responsiveness in answering questions on ST makes me a much more loyal Cervelo customer. I have a P5 (previously had a P4) and when it is time to upgrade my road bike, I am sure I will get a Cervelo. I know if I have questions, I'll get answers here. Before I upgraded from P4 to P5, I read through the posts here, asked a few question and then bought the P5. Love it and just had a great season racing on it with some of my fastest ever bike splits.

Thanks,
Doug

Does anyone know the wire lengths to install a di2 tt upgrade on a P5 six? Sorry if this out there, google didn't find it with a few clicks. This is a long thread. I admit to be part of the problem...

Damon,

I just moved from a 54 p3 classic to a new 54 p3. I still have 2.5 cm of spacers. I am 5'10.

could I have bought a 56? would that eliminate the spacers? I know it is not a lot of drop, but I am most comfortable with about 5 cm of drop. thoughts?

thanks

Before my last long ride for IMFL I squeezed my brake and it felt like there was no resistance. Like there was no fluid left in the brake line. I brought my bike to the not so local local bike shop for them to check it out. He disconnected the hydraulic line from the rear brake caliper and pulled the line from the frame. We discovered that the line had been pinched to the point of cracking in half. The line was cut right where the line enters the frame between the 2 pieces that hold the cable in place. I was lucky that the bike shop had a complete magurA brake system in stock but not so lucky that I had to pony up $400 for the replacement. Has anyone else had this problem? Is this something that should be under warranty? I am running the low bar set up.
Thanks

Hi Gregg,

Nice bike. :-)

Your 56 sounds about right: you have room to both raise and lower your stem.

Could you have bought a bigger size? Compare stack & reach:
You're on a 56, with 549, 425mm (numbers from the P3 geometry PDF linked on the cervelo.com site).
The bigger 58, with 559, 437mm.

So youd've had 19mm more stack *and* 12mm more reach. You would have needed to have left out about 20mm of spacers and chosen a shorter stem.

Like most people, with different stem & spacers, you can probably fit on multiple sizes.

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Cajuntriguy,

Sorry to hear your line got damaged. Glad the shop was able to help you out!

The cable keeper isn't intended to be used with the Aduro bar. The entire width of the cable bucket in the top tube is needed to let the bars turn lock-to-lock. If you have the cable keeper installed, then your brake line is acting as the steering stop, not the pin in the frame as intended. Repeated stops like that will damage the line, as you noticed.

The cable keeper is provided in case you want to use a standard stem instead of the Aduro. In that case it neatens up the cables' appearance. Not really necessary for function, it's just for looks.

We recommend you take the cable keeper off your P5, but hang onto it in case you want to switch to a different stem later.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)