HELP!

I removed the crankset (rotor 3d plus), greased the crank axel, and installed the crank. No more squeaking! Unfortuantly now there is (3-4mm) of lateral play that was not there before. I did not loosen the preload nut. I tried to adjust the preload nut on the non drive side but there is not enough thread on the crank arm. Is there supposed to be a spacer on the drive side?

Hi Cajun,

Congrats! Easy to stop that squeak. :-)

There are a lot of possible spacer configurations, so best bet is to find and put back in whatever came out. On re-reading that sentence it seems pretty obvious, so sorry to seem like a pedant. :-(

In more detail: Rotor 3D+ cranks have one of two spider thicknesses: thin or thick. In your Cervelo's BBright shell, these Rotor cranks are intended to be installed with a ~13mm right side spacer with the thin spider, and no right side spacer with the thick spider. That said, it's possible (and not wrong) to have a extra few thin spacers on either side. Hence my statement to put back what came out.

If you can't tell precisely what was there, not all is lost. In the end, you want two things: (1) good chain line and (2) plenty of thread engagement in the lock ring. Good chain line is dictated by right side spacers (as described above), and once that's good, then thread engagement of the lock ring is adjusted with left side spacers. I aim to have as many of those thin plastic spacers as possible, so the lock ring has nearly all its threads engaged, but can still be adjusted (not hard up against the crank).

If you suspect your particular spacer mix could have changed, remember to check your front derailleur adjustment, as the chain rights might now be positioned slightly closer in or farther out.

Have fun,

Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Damon thanks for your reply. This is the puzzling thing. There were no spacers on the drive side. I put everything back the way it was. Suggestions?

Hi Damon,

Can I ask you a bbright question? Is there is a BBright bottom bracket available that accepts common 24mm haft cranksets (shimano, rotor 3D, etc.) but where the driveside BB bearing sits inside the frame, i.e., fully inside the BB shell?

thanks,
Greg

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Hi Cajun,

If there's no room for a ~13mm spacer on the right, then "no spacers" is a correct number for the right - you must have the thick Rotor spider.

Check to be sure you've installed the seals or shields (one each side); they're considered part of the bottom bracket assembly, not (additional) spacers, even though they take up space - coincidentally a few millimeters or so, as you mention.

If your crank assembly matches so far, then simply add spacers on the left side until the lock ring is almost fully engaged on the crank threads. These should have been installed before, so either I'm wrong in my above assumptions about your bike, or else they were not installed initially when they should have been. I've been wrong before so that's a possibility; but it's also possible the spacers weren't installed because, especially with a new crank, the crank axle can be a tight fit in the bearings, sticking to one side, making the gap (for the spacers) not evident.

Let me know what you find.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Dark,

Just answered your question in that other thread. :-)
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=4809640#4809640

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks, just the info I was looking for.

Greg @ dsw

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
--

Wait a sec. The part that is referred to here http://www.cart32hostingred.com/...amp;prodid=258530650 specifically says that it won't work on 2013 P5's. See the small print on the page.

Yes. That clearly needs updated. Its been covered here in the forum that the messaging on Rotors site is incorrect. I along with many others are using that exact BB on our P5s.

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"One Line Robert"

Hi Damon
Got the whole rear hydraulic replaced. A few last questions
1. mechanic from LBS claims the only way to obtain enough clearance with the rear hydraulic brake and a Zipp 808 FC rear wheel is to shave the carbon brake pad down....

I am mechanically challenged, but i can't imagine the brake would be designed that way and that there isnt a better solution...any tips? There is what looks to be a spacer or washer that could be removed - would brake funcion ok without it?

2 anyone travel with a P5 six in a trico bike case...can it fit and be reassembled without a phD in bike mechanics?

Thanks

Hey TriSlower

1. Yes, you might need to shave down the pads a bit. You can remove the washer, but then you might have problems getting the pads properly oriented on the rim to avoid brake squeal. I'm also running wide wheels (HED 9 Flamme Rouge) and I needed to shave off some of the pad.

2. Search this thread for help on packing the P5. I just travelled for the first time with my P5, and it was a PITA to pack in a trico case. I have the high mount on the front, and I had to take the arm-rest mounts off, remove the high mount from the bars, remove the bars from the bike, and remove the fork as well. Then, for added fun, wrap everything in foam to prevent rub marks and paint damage, because you'll need to figure out a way to lay all of these pieces flat on top of each other. They are all connected together by the brake lines and gear cables, and there is not much play. Total pain. I'm very careful with my bike packing so as to avoid paint damage, parts moving around when being inspected by the TSA, etc., and it was at least an hour of work to pack. At least...

Hi tri,

As Doug mentioned, with the very widest rims it's common to shave a bit off the pads. Doug is also right in the loss of angular adjustment if you remove the washer. It's not just a spacer, it's a spherical mate with the brake pad holder. Together they allow the holder (and pad) and swivel. I've successfully run without them, but got lucky with the brake pads lining up well in that case. Worth a try if you're the mechanical type who likes fiddling.

Packing for travel is a steep learning curve the first time, but as Doug mentioned, there are lots of folks who have posted first hand tips to make it quite straight forward.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

I run FC wheels and have not shaved down any pads to use, I even use the Super9 which is wider than the 808, still no shaving. Removed a washer is all. the only issue I have with the FC wheels is that the brake pads wear way faster than anything I have ever used before(read stock shimano). so probably sometime next year I will need to put washers back in.

Candice
Is this mounted on the Hi-V addition to the Aduro bars? I want to mount a Garmin 800 to the front. Suggestions for the mechanically challenged? Thank you.

Hi-V you can see it on the far left of the picture. For the Garmin 800 you would want a barfly style mount. This will allow for more clearance between the bottle and the computer.

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Candice Turner
CEO
XLAB - Aerodynamic Triathlon Accessories
Dawn to Dusk - Off-road Specific Storage Accessories
http://www.XLAB-USA.com http://www.dawntodusk.bike

Does the 2012 S5 (original model) and the P5 use the same bottom bracket standard in that I could theoretically swap my S975 BB30 Quarq between the two without any issue? The light bulb came on that I may not need to buy separate powermeters for each bike.

Hi qngo01,

Yes. And not only theoretically. ;-)

Cheers,

Damon

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Hi Damon,
I used P5-six in the middle distance race. I had a great feeling from the aero dynamics viewpoint. It was envy of all triathletes.
After the race, my daughter accidentally pushed my bike down to the rough concrete ground, which ended up scraping and scratching shoulder part of the Aduro bar. Examining the damage well, it looks that cosmetics surface of the Aduro bar was ruggedly removed and carbon material was partly exposed.
Do you know some good method of repairing it ? My concern is that some strong paint used for the car repair kit will develop an allergy for my fingers and hands, because I once experienced it in another bike. Also, I like to feel smooth and sleek again with my figners after the repair, not degrading the carbon material.
Do you have any tip or trick ? I will appreciate your help.

Hiro, you might want to try clear nail polish to cover over small spots of damage on your carbon bars. Have used this before to repair small chips in paint on carbon frames and it works.

NYX Nail polish (gloss or matte) and very fine sandpaper. Take your time and layer it on, sanding between layers.

I've patched several dings this way with no issues.

Hi hirochan,

Congratulations on your good race!

Nightfend and CanadianStekare give good advice. I would only add this advice: clean the surface with rubbing alcohol or acetone first, to help the nail polish adhere well.

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thanks for replying to me so fast. It's very interesting.
Does nail polish contain some toxic material to cause an allergy to the average man with a little weak skin ?
As far as I check the web, someone says *crystal glaze* consists of A (epoxy resin) and B (hardner) is fine.
But it says a little hard to paint without air bubble due to the viscosity. Does anyone try this or expoxy based resin ?

Haha, no. It's completely safe to the average man and the carbon & resin on your bike. I'm sure it's been animal tested as well! (My speculation).

I haven't had any issues with sweat, sun, heat, pee or having nutrition running over it for several hours (IM Kalmar). NYX is a very high quality nail polish. Just make sure it's dried, and cured. If you're really concerned, you can put a cover layer atop it as well.

How I fix my dings:

- Clean surface and area with rubbing alcohol (Forgot that step! Thanks Damon).
- Use a needle, dip it into the nail polish, and patiently dab the paint into the chip.
- Let it dry (few hours).
- Take some very fine sandpaper, fold it, and lightly go over the area with the bend of the sandpaper.
- Clean again with rubbing alcohol
- Let it dry
- Re touchup until fixed.

Thanks a million. It's worth trying it, considering your experience.
I can't buy NYX here, but I'll ask my wife to see a skin safe nail polish.
My bike is on transit from the race island now. I'm sure I'll do it.

Is it possible to use both Zipp FC with 25-26mm and my traing wheel with 19mm in the same P5-six, after having filed the break pads, by rectifying a bolt tension in the Magura break lever. Also, how deep should I file approximately for Zipp FC ? Is it better idea to file them with Dremel rotary tool ? Which option of the rotary tip is good to work ? I'd like to buy Zipp FC for a race day, but I don't like to consume much time on the wheel change, as my training time is reduced. Hope a better solution to exchange both wheels with ease.