Jose Premium premixed is my go to on the rocks cheap solution! I dont know if i can mail you a bottle though.
Quick question. I have the mid far stem currently and I am looking to go lower. I have the smallest spacer on there currently. Is this something that can be resolved by just ordering the low far stem and then going back to the spacer I need. If so what is the PN for the low far?
Am fiddling about with the front end of my SC (9 Series P1) as I want the end of the mono further forward.
Have got to a point where the Pivot Cradle is preventing me from shifting the mono further forward as set screw would be underneath the mono if I moved it further forward and this doesn't work with the mono anyways. It seems to mean that the last 0.5inch or so adjustability shown in the markings on the mono can't be used because the cradle pivot set screw needs to use this space. Is that right or is it possible just to flip the pivot cradle around 180 degrees so that the set screw is at the shifter end rather than the stem end of the mono?
If I can't flip the pivot cradle around does this mean that I need to look at changing my stem to get the mono further forward? (Currently on a medium near stem.)
The pictures in the Service Info book (17 July 2013 version) show the set screw at the back (stem end) - Figures 7.11 on page 14 and 8.3 on page 20. But, Figures 8.2 and 8.4 on page 20 also show the mono extension attachment bolts pretty close to the rear of the mono (and so the mono sitting further forward) than I can get things with the pivot screw oriented so that it's near the stem.
In the latter figures you refer to the pivot cradle isn't being used.
You can flip it forward or assemble the cockpit without it...either way what you give up is the ability to stabilize the rear end of the mono...which is done by driving that setscrew down until it touches the back of the monospacer. Depending on your position and, especially, how/how much you pull on the extensions while riding, you may or may not notice the difference.
Other ways to get the shifters further out in front of you include a longer stem, and (if you're running the short ergo mono) any one of the longer monos. Carl Matson
Running the normal ergo mono so no extra length to be had that way. Good to know I can flip it around - will see how I go with the current setting (all the way back but for that last 0.5 inch) which is a bit more length than I had before I started fiddling. If that doesn't feel long enough I'll look at trying it flipped 180 and, failing that working, look at moving from the medium near to a medium far stem. And I have no idea how much I pull on the extensions - I don't think it's that much but I've only got me to compare with so maybe my not much is actually lots. One way to find out I guess.
You could also get the plug in mono which would allow you to move the extensions further out and also roll them if you wanted to. I would hate to remove anything that is stabilizing part of the bike that I am holding onto. What happens if you hit a pothole going downhill in aero?
Knowing my bike handling skills, I probably crash spectacularly regardlesss of whether I have the pivot cradle there or not!
In all seriousness - I took Carl's comment to mean that there's a little more flex in that area than there would otherwise be but not that the bike was unsafe / notably more difficult to control. Carl - have I understood your comments correctly or is fiddling with orientation / removal of the cradle "not advised for safety reasons"?
Hey Carl, Quick question, I want to confirm the stem I currently have before I purchase the lower stem. I believe this is High Far stem but I could be wrong. Is there enough detail for you to confirm if that is accurate?
Several SC owners running Stages with no reported clearance issues. I'm not part of the Kona support cadre, but we've done it the past few years and I don't see any obvious reason that would change. Carl Matson
owner's PSA: I learned the hard way the headset area of these bikes is very susceptible to collecting moisture. My steering recently became "clicky" and when I took the bike in to get checked, the headset bearings had to be replaced because they were completely corroded. This bike was only 5 months old but most of the riding was done over the winter indoors and I definitely sweat buckets. The shop said liquid literally ran out of the headset for about 15 seconds when they pulled it apart. I can't imagine that smelled very good. My prior bike with a "normal" headset configuration had bearings replaced once in 9 years. I've already gotten one of those "bike thongs" for next winter.
Is there a bracket you can purchase or a DIY bracket to allow yourself to use a standard bottle cage BTA? It's eating me I have spent thousands on a bike and I have the cage being held on by a zip tie. I could purchase the proprietary one Trek/Bontrager makes but I love the gorilla cage for my torpedo bottle. Thanks.
Last I heard its July for the BTA cage and mount, I believe this is also when the mounting rail will be sold alone as well. I will tell you that I took the option a similar owner in the thread did and bought the xlab upgrade kit (extra bottle and hardware kit) That has spacers included and this will be my temporary solution until the rail kit or BTA cage comes available. hope that helps.