Yes, that is a complaint I get from everyone. Bike barely turns to left or right before a crazy amount of tension is put on the cables. Something HAS to be done about these stems. Got another cracked one in yesterday. That's 3 in Charlotte,NC alone in. The last week.

As for the behind the seat storage, not one of our three Trek Stores here in Charlotte has ever seen one. I work at our oldest and most Tri inhabited location.

the behind the seat storage/hydration look like parachutes, i would just go a single xlab behind the seat attached to the saddle itself.

As for the stem cracking, my LBS have mentioned that they sand down the stem cover somewhat for a better fit- infact they told me they file it down to an exact measurement and have had success. Now im not sure if they do that to avoid the cracking, unfortunately this conversation i had with them long ago, but i remember them telling me they definitely sand down part of the cover.

A "crazy" amount of tension on the cables would make me wonder if the cable housing was cut too short. This caused problems with the previous SC too, as it would prevent the toptube grommet from seating properly. With the double-ended ferrules on the 7.5 and 9-series bikes this only means re-plumbing the cockpit...no need to mess with the housing in the frame.

If someone from your store(s) is coming to TrekWorld they might get more information on the 2-pack.

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Carl Matson

I've heard of this as well and one of our guys even mentioned it might help, but at the price we pay and our customers pay for these bikes, there shouldn't have to be any sanding on a brand new bike to make things work.

And Carl, 5 guys from my shop will be at TrekWorld.

Carl, with the 3 cases I've seen this week, the cables are cut perfectly and the bikes have a good range of motion with turning radius. You put the stem on and the turning radius decreases 20-30 percent. The problem is the stem is extremely brittle and it keeps the cables from having any range of motion when you put the cover on.

Has been under consideration. Don't know what the timeline would be.

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Carl Matson

That's good info, thanks. I'll pass it along.

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Carl Matson

Carl,

Can you tell me what the dimensions are of the bottom bracket bearings for a 9 series? I ordered a P1 with Ultegra crank but intended to swap it out for a Quarq so I ordered the GXP bearings from here:
http://wheelsmfg.com/...rackets/bb90-95.html


My LBS says these are not the correct bearings so I'm scratching my head wondering what I would need to order next time.


Thanks!

By chance could you take a couple of pictures of how you are running your cables in this scenario? I run a low far stem and i get the creaking noise and limited turn radius. I have taken it to my shop a few times but i am limited in resources and feel that my limited knowledge is more than what my shop has when it comes to these bikes.

what's pictured at that link is not the GXP version of the bearings...it's the Shimano version. you need the nondrive bearing to be 22mm inner diameter vs 24mm (and the corresponding dust shield). from a Trek dealer the PNs for GXP BB90 kits are:

411814 ceramic
404700 steel

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Carl Matson

Sorry, that was just the base page. I did order the non-drive side to be 22mm inner.
http://wheelsmfg.com/...-sealed-bearing.html

without seeing what you got in person I can't say for sure if you ended up with something compatible or not. I do know what comes through our dealers would be.

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Carl Matson

I can send you pics, but not until Wed. I'm off today and tomorrow, BUT on Wed I'm changing the stem on mine so I'll take some good detailed photos.

You may well be better off getting the standard Trek parts knowing that they are an exact fit for your frame. I would hate to fit an inferior product and risk an issue with the frame because of it.

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On the internet, you can be anything you want. It is a pity so many people choose to be stupid.

Confused!

I'm not using any non Trek SC parts. I'm just switching stem sizes for fit purposes. Going to a mid near stem.

Apologies, seems I hit reply to the wrong thread.

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On the internet, you can be anything you want. It is a pity so many people choose to be stupid.

I'm really happy with the 9 series SC that my wife got a few weeks ago; however, I'm not pleased with the BTA holder. It dropped her bottle (a typical specialized bottle) within a few miles of our first ride with it. For as much as it costs, I would expect it to work as it is supposed to. Neither of us had ever dropped a bottle from our zip tied aluminum cages we have on our p3s, and that cost about 1/30th of the bontrager solution.

We ordered a speed box II through our LBS about 3 week ago and it hasn't arrived yet.

Speed box IIs have been on back order for some time now. Expect sometime in August. I am waiting on mine as well.

Mine is here next week- should I just go ahead and get the tape out for the lid or is there any success stories out there of the lid NOT coming off?

Knock on wood but lid is fine even over potholes and RR crossings

Anyone have a 15 mm offset seat post that would be willing to part with?

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Carl,
I had left the (one piece) brake cable housing a little long at the beginning and the breking performance was a little substandard. That was to be expected. So as I am confident with my position I cut the thing to a comfortable length. Breaking is now great. The downside though is that whenever I only so much as tough the frame let alone ride in the street, the cable housing rattled inside the frame like a rattlesanke. I already tried to put in a layer of foam that came with the bike box and put it in from the BB brake cable exit. Now the rattling comes from a place further up the down tube though. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Tim

look for small diameter pipe/wire insulation at the hardware or electronics store and try sliding some of that down the length of the brake housing

try the old Shimano Di2 ziptie technique (though this requires removing the housing and then trying to reinstall with the zipties on...which probably won't be much fun, but still easier than same action with Di2 wires)

same as the ziptie example but use small O-rings instead

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Carl Matson

thanks, will try something from above, too!

Carl,

If I understand it correctly the sc 9 uses different a kit bb kit (bearings basically) for shimano or sram cranks. What is the difference? Inside diameter of the bearings and seals? I think there is a washer on the sram cranks that is required which isn't on the shimano.

Reason I'm asking because I was looking into ceramic speed bearings for the sc. Their website states they have a kit for a trek bb90 but it doesn't say if it's shimano or sram specific. Would this work with a shimano da crank?

http://ceramicspeed.com/...1050109000/TREK-BB90

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