Also

If I was to buy a P5-6 second hand (2013 model) which has the recall aduro handlebars am I entitled to replacement?

Discussed back in 2012, I think its also in the white paper too.



http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...servations_P3745809/

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

I am in need of the following part and can't seem to find it anywhere. Anyone have one of these they don't need/use? It's the bracket that you mount the bta bottle to.
[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/...a/IMG_32201.jpg.html][/url]
Thanks
Dave

Try contacting Xlab since it's their part

Here: https://www.xlab-usa.com/...-cage-optimizer.html

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Thanks a lot

New colour arrive, with sram etap

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Cervelo P5d and R5 Owner

Yes, it's nice... if only we could send ours in!!

A quick question to those who have a P5-6 or a P5-3 with Aduro

The anti rotation bolt which fits onto the spacers that are placed under the stem, how many do we need? Is it one per spacer? I have heard that it's only 1 bolt on the 1st spacer then any additional spacers are just compressed and don't need them.

I bought the Aduro seperate and they didn't come with the pack of bolts, only have the bolts for the high and low mounts. So if I order I want to be sure how many I need.

Would really appreciate clarity on this.

Many Thanks

You need an antirotation bolt in each spacer - apart from the last one, so you need one less bolt than the number of spacers you use.

Thanks

Now need to source them....

Actually you need the same number of bolts as spacers as one bolt screws into the base bar for the top spacer.

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Triathlon Aust Performance Coach
Certified Sports Nutritionist
Retul Bike Fitter
Coffee Lover

Thanks Keizen,

Does anyone who what "other" bolts could be used instead of waiting for 3T to supply... are they standard bolts of a small size? M2 with X length?

Do you, or anyone else, know the difference in drag between the 3 and 6 fork on the P5 at low yaw? I keep hearing something about 1-2w, but not sure if that's averaged or even correct. Thanks.

Check TriRig. They did a test of a P3 with Alpha X vs the P5-6.

Unfortunately there are just too many variables to draw any conclusion on the fork in that test.

damon commented on this thread at some point that after more testing they were ot sure which set up was faster really

Good to know, thanks dude.

Scoured the internet/ST gods, but can't seem to find an answer.

Recently built up a 2014 P5-6 with Etap---fit is dialed in with the exception of pad to wrist angle/bar angle. I know the 3T Aduro is a fixed base bar, but are there any hacks to get 1-3 degrees of tilt?

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IG: NCGregory8778

Hi,

I have a question about Magura RT8TT brakes. I noticed this winter that the front caliper is very slow to retract. First time I noticed it was when it was very cold outside (17 degrees F). I spoke to Magura tech support and they gave me a couple of things to try. 1. Try to "tighten" the spring that opens the caliper. 2. Put some lube on the actual cylinder inside the caliper. This helped a little but still didn't resolve the issue. It looked to me that the spring was just too weak to keep the caliper open. I called the tech support back and they decided to send me two new calipers. I was very happy about that. I don't get a chance to swap the calipers but did ride this weekend when it was almost 70 degrees F. The calipers worked great.
So, I wonder if the hydraulics just don't work when it's that cold. Before I swap them out I want to make sure that I won't be in the same shoes. Has anyone used their Magura RT8TT in the cold and what experience did you have (other than being cold).

Thanks

I have a P5 six with Aduro aero bar. I've had the bike for 3 years now. The other day I decided to look into removing one or two spacers but had a hard time removing many of the screws that needed to be removed. I ended up stripping the heads on 4 screws. The ones that I was able to take off were covered in corrosion. The aluminium is corroding around the screws, I can see the white powder fall out as I take out the screw. I'm not sure what material the screws are made out of but the heads are very easy to strip. Has anyone else seen/had this issue? Any ideas how to resolve it? Is there a warranty that might cover it?
At this point I'm stuck, I don't see how I'm going to make any adjustments.

Thanks

what a ballache to remove a spacer.... when i can i will change my aduro for the enve bars and tri-rig brakes.... aduro/magura is not good if you need an adjustment

Sweat? Especially if using trainer a lot. Same thing appened to me.

I've seen it before on bikes that get a lot of trainer use. The corrosion is from the sweat.

I used an electric drill and carefully drilled the head of the screws off. Have to be careful and start with a small bit, like 3/16", and slowly move up sizes until you shear enough material to break off the head, then use a pair of needle nose pliers to unscrew the rest of the shaft (once you get the lid/base off). If you can get a reverse fluted bit, that would be better as you might be able to catch enough traction on the screw to back it out before having to remove the head.


The alloy they used for the screw is not very strong, but it is light, and probably why they used it. I replaced all of them with 316 Stainless Steel ones. Use a lot of anti-seize on the threads in the future.

This is extremely risky, as damage to the Aduro bar itself (i.e. not the top cap if you're using Low V or part of the High V if you're using the High V) is very pricey.

Those bolts should be checked monthly for corrosion and or damage. I used to take them out (and the ones that attached Low V to the Aduro basebar) and clean and re-grease them at least that often.