How easy it to change to brake pads out? Debating if I want to order the all carbon Flo's or just stay with the aluminum brake track.The front doesn't look bad so I'm more concerned about the rear wheel.

To get my brakes dialed in I have to take out the crank. I train and race on carbon wheels of similar depth.

You take the crank off to dial your wheels in?

i didnt have to thanks to the 8mm screw; i didnt need to take the crank out - and i an using 54 solid plate chainring

I seem to remenber there was a German company that did this whilst still covered by warranty. I once looked at it, but it was expensive (I;e. base-price 600€, custom-design easily over 1.000€ ....

You could consider wrapping it though... Probably cheaper and will not void that warranty...

side-note: I am known to have made mistakes before in life, so don't shoot me if I'm wrong ;)

S.

Ok, let me investigate a wrap.... I just hate the current paint jobs... they must employ really bad Aesthetics section... I want it in the Team Dimension Data set up... not with a massive red line down it

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ost=6000620#p6000620


Wrap added 1.3 oz to bike and improves visibility and possibly aero qualities.


And of course wrap is easy to modify and change downstream.

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Cheers, Neal

+1 mph Faster

Does anyone else have braking issues on the P5? On a steep decent the bike won't come to a complete stop, not enough braking power. I'm using the Magura's with Reynolds 81 clinchers and Reynolds Cyro-blue power brake pads. It's a scary knowing that I can't stop myself from rolling into traffic coming down from a steep decent. Any feedback you can provide is greatly appreciated.

Carbon wheels generally don't have the best braking. That said, the brakes you're using, the Maguras, are pretty damn powerful. I'd check to make sure they're set up right. Perhaps they're set too wide preventing you from applying enough pressure to the rim when the brake lever is at the end of its travel.

Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback.

check if the brakes need bleeding? That would improve the braking

I had this issue the other week. Had been riding 25mm rims and then swapped over to 23mm rims. Didn't notice any braking issues on the flats and then came down steep hill and at 40-50mph I had to brake and the bike wouldn't stop. Was quite scary. I just had to recalibrate the brake pad width using the screws up by the brake levers using an allan key. If you've tried that and it doesn't help then it's probably a leak in the hydraulic line. Check that the screw on the front of the brake is tight and nothing is leaking there. I once made the mistake of unscrewing it and accidentally draining all the fluid.

At the weekend I discovered that the beard and the mounting to the Aduro stem/bars is now missing from my P5.

I gave tried to look for suppliers for the two parts but I am not getting very far. Can anyone recommend or let me know if they are considering selling the beard. Otherwise I will have to have a look at custom beard and mount

Thanks

When I converted my P5-3 to a P5-6 I bought a beard and mount from my Cervelo dealer in Austin, TX. That was less than a year ago so I assume that they are still available from Cervelo dealers.

That actually wouldn't drain out all the fluid, the screw merely acts to push on a plunger. It doesn't "seal" anything itself.

Not sure I follow as I'm not much of a mechanic (proved by the following sentence). Once I unscrewed the middle screw (of the 3 in the photo below) on the brake on my P5 and some liquid came out and the brakes stopped working properly.

Oh yea, you definitely don't want to unscrew that unless you are bleeding the brakes. That is the hole (once unscrewed) into which you install the plunger (that you've attached the magura brake hose fitting thingy to) to push fluid up through the system and out of the brake lever EBT screw.

That screw has absolutely nothing to do with brake adjustment. I thought you were referring to the screw embedded in the lever itself which is what is used for brake width adjustment.

ETA: I am now reading your post thoroughly (reading comprehension fail), and realized you mention both screws. My bad.

No problem. I'm suprised I managed to explain it even vaguely as I don't know the nomenclature. I made the mistake after a long trip when I hadn't slept much and in my daze, I thought it was the screw that fixes the brake to the frame. Will never make that mistake again!

I asked my bike mechanic to show me how to do it. It is very easy to do once you've been shown. I have to change mine out for races, and the process maybe takes me 10 minutes to do the rear.

I have this same problem. I do have carbon wheels, but wasn't sure if that was the problem or is it the type of brake pads?

If you just look at the hardware the function of any screw on the calipers as well as on the levers is not self-explaining. Read the Maguramanuals before turning any screw. The manuals are very good.

And if you finally get to the allen screw on the LEVER with which you can adjust the caliper pressure point, don't screw it too deep because obviously it can fall into the lever without a chance to get it back.

It's most likely the travel on the brake levers. I adjusted mine and the braking power is 10x what it was before.

Hi

A quick question, apologies if it's stupid.., but are all 3T aduro base bars 38mm wide?! Or do you specify width when buying a P5-6?

Thanks

yeah all of them are the same width.

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Thanks Nebmot. Is there a link confirming this it is this just knowledge haha