There's several reasons I have the handlebars up so high.

First, I wanted to get comfortable with that frame before slamming the bars.

Second, I am not that flexible (8 years of cross country and track does that to you). However, I am doing yoga now and hope to improve that.

Third, I could not source a low mount when I was building it (finding the aerobar alone was damn near impossible... I drove 6 hours to get it).

Fourth, I spent less on that P5 frame than the cost of a P2 frame, so why the hell not build it.

Fifth, I've put the P5 on the same course in the same conditions as my P2 and managed to bump my average from 21.3 mph to 23.7 mph (10 miles... 5 into wind, 5 with a tail wind).

Sixth, that fit was based on a retul fit from my P2, I'll adjust accordingly after a few races.

I guess the overall reason they are set that way is I'm comfortable on it and can put down fast times, so why mess with a good thing?


For reference:

The difference between those bikes is not 2.4 m/h. There must have been other circumstances. Warmer, less wind, more power in your legs. I would guess the difference between those two bikes can at the maximum amount to 0,5 m/h.

Maybe the frame is too big: the saddle seems to be in the maximum front position (also on the former P2). That might be your problem: I can imagine to lower your armpads you have to put your saddle more forward (imagine your body circles around the bracket), which is not possible.

The Aduro is an integrated bar...

I moved from a 56cm P2 to a 58cm P5. I can move the armrests back by 2.5cm, but that's it on adjustability of the frame. I ordered a new saddle that has longer rails, so it can slide forward another 4cm. Giving me a total of 6.5cm of play. If you notice too, the Cobb saddle has way longer rails than the ISM saddle. It is in the same relative position to the bottom bracket as the P2, but has the appearance of being pushed further forward because of the super short rails.

I'm thinking the reason I'm faster on the P5 is a little additional training, but also a much stiffer frame, allowing more power transfer. The 56cm P2 had a lot of sway on the seat post from being up so high. It always felt like I was on a seesaw on it. I had the same problem on a Quintana Roo CD0.1 I used to own. I am a larger rider (5'11" 190 lbs) so that tends to amplify the effect.

However, even with all the minor factors aside, I test all my new bikes on the same path over the same distance and wait for the same wind speed/direction and relative humidity to be the same before I test. The only changing factor is my fitness level, which hasn't varied much over the past several years.

Even if you think the conditions are the same there will be enough variation to make it impossible to do an accurate comparison. The only way you can properly do it is to use a power meter and the Aerolab in Golden Cheetah.

Like the previous poster said, you cannot see that much difference in speed purely from the P2 > P5

Before I dump $1k on a power meter, You're basing the unequivocal "cannot be faster" on what qualifications? Not trying to be rude, I just don't want to listen to some random person saying random "facts"

I just posted real world differences in average speeds. I use the same course every time and this was run #1. Over the next few weeks I will do 9 more runs and average out the speeds. I did 10 runs for an average on the P2 and will do the same for the P5. Short of taking it to a wind tunnel, that's the best way to test.

When you've done multiple runs back to back then maybe you'll have some potentially robust data. Until then you just have two data points and now idea of the error on them.

As it stands, I have 10 runs in the P2 and 1 on the P5. 11 data points tota. Obviously it's a huge margin for error until I get more runs on the P5. I was just posting my first run. That and there was no data point close to that speed from the P2. I'll post a full graph showing both bikes along with a full component list and dry weight of each bike once I get 10 runs in on the P5

on same day, back to back alternating between rigs. different days you have absolutely nothing other than data from 2 bikes on 2 days with no way to correlate them. air density, air temp, tires, position, wind speed direction, humidity, wheels. everything is different and you want to compare them.

it is like comparing and orange to a grapefruit. hey, they are both orange/yellowish, both citrus, both squirt painful juice in the eye if not careful, so they obviously must taste the same

I just got a P5 (coming from a P3C). Maybe the added speed was excitement to be on a new ride =)

It's hard to believe my P5 is now 3 years old so with the new wheels are on and thought I'd post a pic of the set up prior to the first sprint tri of the year. I believe the hype about the Enve 7.8s, on the exposed and breezy roads the front didn't move at all and the tubeless soaked up a lot of buzz from the poor quality roads.

What's funny is that you say this but then previously post about stiffness and power transfer being one of the reasons for the faster speed. Big stiffness is never an issue especially on the frames you are comparing.

The qualifications is all the information here and online showing the wind tunnel and outside tests showing that's just not possible for it to be frame differences causing that. The most you are looking at is 90-100 seconds from a p2 to a p5, over a 40k is maybe a half mph, absolutely no where near 2.5.

Not to anyone in particular but has anyone put Turbo Cotton 24C on the front of the P5? Looking at Tom's spreadsheet it measures 26.4 compared to the 23C Conti 4000S at 24.8. Reason I ask is that I know that a 25C Conti 4000S (measured about 28) will not fit.

I'm thinking I want to go TC 24C's front/back but not sure if it'll fit.

Why put a 24 on the front? Don't you want a skinny tire up front. I run either an Conti Attack 22 or 4000s 23 front & a 25 rear.

 The answer is yes, it will fit because it's around tire, not a tall tire like Continental. But the answer is no, you should not use it, because you should use a Conti attack 22 or a supersonic 23 . Finally, doublecheck Tom spreadsheet… The with the tire also depends on the width of the room it was tested on, and he tests on different wheels

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Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

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Thanks, Eric. Yes I know it depends on what it's mounted on. I think that one was a wide rim so approx it close to mine. Didn't think about the tall aspect of the tires tho.

Ended up not going that route anyways.

Could anyone provide a link to the P5 white paper? I have tried several previously posted in this forum and all just link to cervelo's main site. Thank you!

This the one you're thinking of?

https://issuu.com/...ite-paper-cd55ee37-8

Thanks - I had found this one, but unfortunately I cannot save it or print it. I would like to be able to reference it outside of Adobe Flash. Any ideas? Anyone have the PDF?

For those interested or following here it is: http://www.cervelo.net/...f-39946cd71205-0.pdf

Guys first time trying to change the housing on my bike - a bit apprehensive - any advice; any problem routing through the extensions? where am i most likely to screw up?

appreciate advice

Hi jnag,

I run TC 24's for >1yr on my P5 without any issue's at all on my size 54 frame. They are very similar in size to a Conti GP4000SII-25mm. They are mounted on 808 Firecrests and on the back on a super-9 CC disc. You can find pictures on this forum here.
As a side-note: Weighing 69kg and using Vittoria latex tubes, I found the "sweet spot" between robustness, CRR and comfort to be 88-90PSI on the back tire and 85-88 on the front-tire.

Id try loosening the clip mounting screws, and tweaking the mounting clip rearward in relation to the brake covers, Ive built many P5s and not seen this issue, so i'd go for a basic issue rather than the part being hinky. If a screw isn't straight it'll pull the clip assembly out of place.

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'to give anything less than the best is to sacrifice the gift'...Pre

Really gutted that I cannot get a paint job done in Europe without voiding the warranty.... Totally unfair by cervelo...

quick question - so i moved to electronic shifting - there is a plastic sleeve for the front derailleur - can i remove it or it would be impossible to thread it back if i wanted to move back to cables?