Has anyone installed angled risers and bars for a higher hand position on the P5 Aduro, if so, please share pics of your set up.

Looking for some options to angle the pads on my P5.

yes I have.

Originally with washers under the front of the pads but now with custom 3d printed wedges from a guy on the UK TT forums...

Do this, it's mandatory!

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Thanks Eric

What extension bars are you using? Are you just using longer screws thru the pad holders + wedges into the basebar to hold it all together (as you would normally attach the pads without any wedges)?

Post your reply on my other thread last week I went and saw a fitter and discussed options. The Aduro is a nightmare but we should be able to get a new front position to work.

I have ordered a set of 15deg wedges and Zipp evo 110 extensions which we think will work well, but I'd like to see how others have done it too..

I have USE Tula 50 degree alloy extensions, installed backwards. The Zipp 110s likely won't work for you. USE also makes 40 degree and 30 degree bend extensions.

Yes, I just used a longer bolt for the washers.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Great thanks.

We'll try the 110s, if they're not high enough I have some other ski-bend bars lying around to install backwards. ;)

Hi (old?) P5 owners

I was thinking about my flat kit for an upcoming race, and was wondering about using the internal Di2 battery compartment for flat repair storage. I have Etap so that compartment is empty.

My thinking is I could use this to keep a spare tube / CO2 completely internally. I usually have a flat kit strapped to my saddle / rear bottle, but I don't think its entirely hidden from an aero perspective.

Yes, I realize that would add some time having to remove the rear wheel and unscrew the compartment door to access my kit, but I figure that if I flat (i) there's like a 70% chance that it will be the rear wheel and I will be removing it anyway; and (ii) If I'm losing 5 min changing a flat, losing an extra 30s or so unscrewing the door to access my flat kit isn't going to kill my race (and I could possibly gain some of that time back with having the kit hidden from the wind?).

At this stage it's just a thought and I'm not even sure I can fit a tube + CO2 in there...

Anyone tried this, thoughts?

The compartment is rather small and you probably have some cables (electric?) running in it which you should be careful about.
Furthermore, the screws/thread of the compartment door are only designed for that light door, so if they have to carry the impact load of CO2 units (which can be much more than the mere weight of it in a moving bike) I do not know if they hold.
I would forget the idea...

Thanks for the input - something to think about.

No wires there - I have etap.
And I'm guessing the weight of a tube and CO2 is probably not more than a Di2 battery it was designed to hold?

Offhand seems a little small to me - I am rather sure that you can not fit a tube, CO2 including pump adapter in there.

Additionally, the "door" is secured with a screw, if I am not mistaken. How do you plan on opening that?

Also, what happens if you have a flat front tire? Do you want to take out the back wheel to get to your flatkit?

I would look at other places to store the flatkit, like in the frame triangle (drag2zero or selfmade options) or in a bottle

How much aero penalty is a c02 canister costing you?

I have my tubes, canisters etc all in a zip lock bag behind my seat and in between the bottle cage.

Yes it probably is a bit impractical... but to answer your queries:

1. The door screw is a 2.5 / 3mm allen head - I would just keep this allen key (which is tiny) in my bento.
2. Yip if I puncture the front I'll lose some time having to remove the rear wheel too. Bit of a bummer, but (in my experience) I tend to get more rear wheel flats than front.
3. Sure, there are other good / practical options. But those are all external and take up an area I could otherwise use for nutrition and/or have a potential aero cost. E.g I typically don't have anything on the down tube, as even an aero bottle there costs a few Watts.

Anyways, these are all just mad thoughts of mine. Maybe not too wise or practical, so good to have other logical views.

On reflection, what I may do is just have my regular flat kit mounted somewhere externally for quick access, and just keep a second tube in there as a last resort / backup. If I get 2 flats my race is shot anyway.

See my post above ;)

That's where I typically keep mine too. No idea what (if anything) it costs. Just like the idea of storing stuff internally where there is absolutely no cost.

Except for the time cost of pulling off the back wheel, finding the allen key, taking the cover off etc rinse repeat. Sorry dude bad idea..

But still a brake cable.

As I well remember (I do not run di2), the di2-battery has a dedicated holder in the compartment such that the screws of the compartment door do not hold the battery. I guess you have to dispose of this holder, leaving an empty compartment. Then you are going to fill this up with stuff and then screw the door on, which means the screws are going to carry the stuff.

1) If you are not winning the race, going to this microscopic level of accessory "aero" tweaking is so low priority. I mean this seriously. A well strapped together flat kit placed appropriately in between the saddle and rear hydro carrier or under the saddle is of negligible loss, aerodynamically.

2) I can never, ever imagine wanting to go to the trouble of removing (potentially) both wheels to access the tiny little compartment with the tiny allen bolt holding the door on to get any sort of repair item. You are virtually guaranteed to either lose that bolt or strip its head at some point.

3) You say "If I'm losing 5 min changing a flat, losing an extra 30s or so unscrewing the door to access my flat kit isn't going to kill my race (and I could possibly gain some of that time back with having the kit hidden from the wind?). "

Which is supremely ironic. You are fine with throwing away 30s in this scenario but you don't want your flat kit "in the wind" otherwise. First, it will take you much longer than 30s to account for removing Di2 battery door, removing flat kit, re-installing di2 battery door. Second, as mentioned in #1, a well put together kit will be completely neutral, aerodynamically.

In short, this kinda crap is not worth your time, effort, and mental energy.

Hahaha, ok point taken, bad idea.
Moving along... ;)

This question goes to all P5 owners WHO didn't use BBRight cranksets. I currently have several BB386 cranksets, and I am wondering if you guys know what pressfit BB I need to use for this crank on my P5 6.

I'm likely changing from my Shimano cranks to a 386evo crank soon. These are the main options I'm considering:

- BBinfinite: https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bbright-30mm with 10 mm spacer on the drive side (https://www.bbinfinite.com/...riant=14528018415675)
- Kogel: https://www.kogel.cc/...?variant=50398893524
- Enduro: https://www.qarvimports.com/...?variant=22321999813

There are other options out there. I'll likely go with BBinfinite

Hi,

Apologies for not going back through the thread, does anyone know the torque setting on the two bolts on the RHS of the stem spacers to tighten the bars? I've done a quick google search, and the manual only seems to show the torque of the top bolt of the stem bung.

Jeff

Solution to shifters in the base bar and magura brakes, shifter butons Shimano E7000 for electrical bikes. Work Fine. It´s serve both front and rear derailleurs (E7000 R and E7000 L). Only is necesary config whit Etube

Hi everyone.
Bought second hand P5 frame, to find out that battery compartment cover is missing:

Could someone please suggest where to get this part, or if possible, please post some pictures of it, especially inner side of the cover?

Thanks

Alright, I've searched this thread and can't seem to find the answer...

What is the best way to run a wide rim with an older model P5 (~2013)? I've got an Enve 8.9 front with a 25mm GP4000 on it and it will not fit between the front brake. Are people shaving down their brake pads? or is there a max rim width that the older P5s will tolerate?

Hey mate.

Step 1.
Remove washers between pads and calipers.

Step 2. (If required)
Shave brake pads.

Step 3. (If required)
Bleed some fluid out of the hose.

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Samuel Arthur Medway
Perth, Western Australia

Thanks for these. I've tried option 1 and the wheel is still a bit too girthy.

What is the best way to shave brake pads down? Haven't done that before, but I think that would do the trick.

Have your tried option 3, bleeding the brakes completely, first? would always check that first before manipulating the break pads.

If you are doing things to your break pads, I would try a fine flat file, and move the whole brakepad along the file. this way you should get and equal shaving along the whole brakepad.