if you don't want parts rubbing/touching headtube. usually there are different thickness washers and you probably have too thin of one installed. sometimes one uses more than one to either get brake pad holders to not hit fork or in your case, get pretend aero enhancers to not rub headtube ;)
I would think the part you are dealing with would all be the same size. I would think the different sizes would be the top half of the beard attached to stem. all brakes are the same size so the part that snaps or screws onto brake should be the same, I think
I would think the part you are dealing with would all be the same size. I would think the different sizes would be the top half of the beard attached to stem. all brakes are the same size so the part that snaps or screws onto brake should be the same, I think
yes, i think that you are right Cervelo P5d and R5 Owner
I need some help, I finally got my Enve 7.8 clinchers and have to use 23mm due to the clearance. My question is if any of you use 7.8's did you have to remove the spacers from the brake pads to make them fit. I had to strip out the spacer and washers to make the front wheel fit and then unscrew the brake adjuster out as well. Just wanting some assurance that this is the right way to do it.
I was getting some tiny brake rub with my Zipp 808s. My first attempt to alleviate involved opening the brakes at the brake pulls using the hex bolt but when they opened enough the handles would rattle. So I ended up doing what you just did and took out the washers from the brake pads. I believe I just swapped the thicker washer on the inside with the thinner washer on the outside. Problem solved and washers won't get lost.
You can also try grinding some material off the brake pads to make them thinner. I am using HED+ rims without any problem. I back out the adjusters at the brake levers when using the wide race wheels and screw them in when using my narrower training wheels.
Great looking build. Where did you get that stand from! I have been looking for one for ages since seeing them at a show. The rep I spoke to said I could get them from Cervelo but so far I have drawn a blank. My LBS and Cervelo don't seem to be able to help!
What is the black tab assembly just aft of your seatpost clamp? Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA. DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook --
It's a "Velotak" race number holder. It avoids sticking race numbers to the frame. Here's a picture along with a few others, including a modified cateye mount that mounts directly to the torpedo bottle.
I notice that the saddle is inclined downwards, but that's probably ok for you? Furthermore the armpads are hardly lower than the saddle. Can't you put them lower to get better aerodynamics? Mine are 12 cm lower than the saddle. All depends on body flexibility though.
I'm really not trying to troll, but when I look at a super bike like the P5 set up with so many spacers and the high v it just seems so wrong and a pointless waste of money. In that position the drag from your body is going to dwarf any savings you get for that bike over a P3. Surely better to sort out your flexibility so you can get aero and then indulge in a P5.
I said the same thing to my wife last night, it's like people are actively trying to get a slower positions on their Tri bikes. I have more drop on my road bike than that.