Hello leahnp,

Wow, that is a good photo. I haven't personally heard of hanger damage from B Tension screw. But, I can see that you have some wear and tear here. Has this resulted in any other issues such are derailleur alignment or shifting problems?

I don't see anything that should stop you from riding in your photo but, I'll get a second opinion from our engineers and tech support people and let you know if there is any cause for concern.

Thanks,
db

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David Byer
Cervélo

Thanks David

After further digging I realised the standard BB30 wouldn't work, so have ordered the Rotor 4630 PF-30.

So I finally got the Rotor QXL ring for my P5 and went from a 52 to 53 teeth. It's been 8-9 days since I have it on and did a TT night for 15 km. best time ever, this ring is excellent, so much I got a QRING for my R3 and can't say anything bad about them.

Money well spent, my legs and body feels great and speed, cadence and endurance are great, so for anyone out there wondering about spending the money on them, go for it!!

Thx for all the replies gents.

Don't know if this has been previously covered. I need to get new pads for my aerobars. LBS, a Cervelo dealer that I bought the bike from, checked and was told pads only come with the full arm rest kit.
Does anyone know how to source the pads for the original spec aero bars on the P5(3T Aduro)?

I believe you can get them directly from 3T's website and on E-Bay.

And 3T is usually VERY fast in delivery time.

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____________________
Rock Chalk!

Thanks David, I haven't notices any issues re shifting but with Di2 the auto trim would hide that. I made a temp shim to sit flush on the hanger so the B screw will rest against that instead of the hanger.
I cannot think of how this would be caused except when taking the rear mech off for travelling with my Scion Areotech case. Any advice is appreciated.

Cee Gee's. Personally think they are the best pads out there.

Hey leahnp,

Just got some feedback from our tech guys and engineers. We have not seen this type of wear before but we're going to look more closely at some hangers in the field. I don't think you have anything to worry about and can just monitor and let me know if anything progresses. Feel free to DM or email me if you want to share pics of your temp shim. I'm not certain it is necessary but I also wouldn't mind seeing exactly where the B tension screw sits without it.

Thanks,

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David Byer
Cervélo

I joined the P5 club. Thanks for the help on the positioning. Went with a 54 and got an almost identical position, actually a bit lower and like it. The build had a few complications - had to shave down brake pads and add spacers to the non drive side crank arm for the stages PM to clear the chain stay. I hope it is a bit faster than my P3C with a Ventus over 40k.

Lookin' good!

Hello,

I just got measurement of arm pad stack and arm pad reach, so which size will i fit to ?...Here's my arm pad stack (660), arm pad reach(440) and my seat height is 78.5 cm

Thanks

Sounds like a 54cm with the high v aerobar would fit those measurements. The reach may a bit long though. Did you reference the chart in the p5 white paper?

Stack of 628 and Reach of 475-485.. I'm thinking that brings me to a low 54 with limited movement upwards without the high V, or the low 56 with being on the edge of the reach.

Am I off base?

Andrew

David
I will get some pictures sent over to you. Many thanks

I just looked at white paper chart.I'm kind of confuse, apparently I'm able to ride 51 and 54cm with high v bar ?

Hello Dan7,

I know it may be a little confusing at first look, but it is common to be able to fit on more than one size. I believe your stack is 660 with a reach of 440. That can work with a 51cm using the High-V and spacers. If you go to the 54cm frame, you can use the High-V with less spacers but the reach will 19mm more at 459mm.

If you think you would ever go "longer" (increasing reach) or "higher" (increasing stack) with your position , then the 54cm is likely a better option. It will still leave the opportunity to get lower in the future as well.

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David Byer
Cervélo

Hey Andrew,

No, not off base at all. In fact, you have 3 possible options. I'll try to shed some light on them:

1. 56cm, with Low bar and some spacers. This leaves you the option to go up or down with your stack and longer with your reach. However, you won't be able to go shorter with your reach.

2. 54cm, High-V. You can ride this set up with no spacers at 626mm stack. Plenty of athletes like this set up because it gives a little drop between the base bar and the arm pads.

3. 54cm, Low bar and spacers. This set up also allows you to adjust up or down with more or less reach too. The low bar set up puts the base bar closer to the arm pads and leaves the steerer longer in case you wanted to drop your position or go to the High-V later (which would require the steerer to be cut down).

Given the dimensions that you've stated, the 54cm appears to give you the most flexibility and choice of bar set up. Some of our fellow ST'ers might have some good insight as to which set up they prefer and why.

Hope this helps.
Thanks,

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David Byer
Cervélo

Hi,

Can anyone advise on how the fork riser kit fits togther (how & how many/type of bolts required) - i've finally decided to buy a new fork (to raise pad height) & although i have the original metal riser blocks i'm not sure i have the right screws/bolts (anti rotation?) to fit them together.

There are 3 small holes (traingle shape) along with the main centre bolt hole but mine doen't seem to match up to the image in the manual;

http://www.cervelo.com/...b-c6c28594836d-0.pdf

2014 model.

I imagined they would some how just click together!?

Any advice appreciated.

there are 3 holes in each so you can attach the beard part to whichever spacer(s) you decide to use. you use a different bolt(larger) to be able to stack more than one spacer and recommended that the 5mm be on the bottom if used. They do not snap into place, just loose fitting with the bolt head preventing the rotation of the spacers. very simple

Thank you.

Just a general question for all on this thread....

For those with Di2 on their P5, how are you doing the T1 rubber band thing with your shoes attached to the bike? The bike is so clean I can't find anything to attach the bands too!

Cheers,

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thechromedome
http://www.favoritefinishlines.blogspot.com
http://www.cupcakecartel.org
My 20% off code for 2018 FS Series races: tricred18
"there are no drafters in heaven" - C Bonner

Can someone please help me with a repair question on the P5: I have been experiencing a clicking sound coming out of the bottom bracket and I cannot figure out what is causing it.

It seems to occur when the non-drive train side pedal hits the six o'clock position and when I am exerting more power on the pedals.

The only way I can replicate it other than when biking is by crouching on the non-drive train side, putting that pedal in the six o'cock position, and applying pressure on the crank just above the pedal, as though I am trying to push the crank under the bicycle.

If you have experienced this problem and have a solution please help me, it has been driving me crazy.

I googled this issue and the solution was not loose chainring bolts.

Thanks in advance.

two things to check:

- front derailleur - i had an occurrence of it actually touching the arm of the drive side

- bearings in your BB

David, wear on your carbon drop outs has been seen before by your engineers. I had an issue similar to this with my s5 (which was knocked back when I applied for a warranty claim). My issue was the inner face of the drop-out that is in contact with the hub has formed a dome shape and also the skewer hole was slightly over size, which introduces play in the rear wheel when clamped to the frame. When going over hard bumps the wheel will rotate 1 or 2 degrees in the frame, and cause the tyre to rub against the chainstay. This rotation causes the shifting to start skipping when changing gears. Once it jumps to the new position, I have to stop, undo the skewer, put the wheel back straight and then tighten the skewer again. Think of having horizontal drop outs and not putting your wheel in straight. LBS/Cervelo said this is normal wear and tear.