I did a couple of things:

1.My LBs found a bolt(?) that would go on the end of the barrel adjuster. It works but not as well as the OEM.

2. As a backup, I found 2 of the Magura brake levers online at a bike shop so I purchased them in the event I have the problem again.

3. I bought a set of HED Ardennes wheels to replace my Mavic Ksyrium training wheels so now my race wheels and training wheels are the same size and should not need to adjust the brake width as much has the previous 5 years.

Best of luck.

Is this item only intended for the Magura rear brakes? I have a used P5-3 frame that doesn't have this and is missing a few other little bits as well... not sure if this brake cover is missing or simply not applicable for the mechanical brake setup.

https://mybikeshop.com/...t-contain-bolts.html

I do not know whether other brakes fit under it, at least I have the magura brakes and it also did not fit initially: I have to insert some washers between the cover and the fuselage, such that the brake can move freely.
Another point: I remember Cervelo tested the cover in the windtunnel and they could not find any aerodynamic difference with or without it. So the cover is merely for aesthetics and to keep dirt away ftom your brake.

My P5-3 came with the cover. Depending on how wide your wheels are, it may or may not fit. I have enve 7.8 which are 27.5mm wide at the brake track and needed to trim the cover to clear the brake arm on the drive side.

I think Cervelo claimed 1W or so vs the exposed magura. The TRP could be less aero, so the benefit could be marginally greater. Still inconsequential

Bought a p5 frame in 2014.
Tried to mount a Campagnolo crankset: did not function because the left crank touched the frame and the bearing cups were much too loose because they were not deep enough in the frame. I think Campagnolo offered a compatible option to bbright but never actually tried it out.

I then bought a Rotor system which I managed to install but the installation of the BB went very difficult with a lot of force and noise. The BB did not rotate smoothly, but I decided to ignore it and rode it until 2019.
In 2019 I got water in my BB such that after a couple of days it was stuck because of rost. I had to deal with it again.
I bought a C-bear BB because I heared they were better than the Rotor ones, had big problems with removing the old BB and again with installing the new one. It did again not rotate smoothly but I decided to apply my old tactics: ignore.

Now I decided to install another crankset so I had a glance again at the BB and when I rotated the left bearing with my fingers that went very unsmoothly, so I decided I have to face it again and buy another BB.

Uninstalling the old one was again difficult.
This time I just looked accidently a bit deeper into the frame and I saw some obstacles in the left bearing surface (the hole in the carbon where the bearing is inserted). It appeared, that these obstacles (a metal piece and a carbon protrusion) were at 15 mm deep but the rotor and c-bear bearings go 20 mm deep. I inspected the old bearing and saw it was really bulged and scratched, just from pressing it in, no wonder the noises and high force required to get it in.

Problem detected (after 6 years!).

Also on the right side there was a carbon protrusion less deep than the bearing is inserted.

I guess that Cervélo at the time was only aware of bearings which only go 15mm deep, such that they only machined their frames so deep.

After sanding the obstacles away, the new bearings went in normally and for the first time I have a normal BB.

Strange is, that I do not have the gut-feeling it costed me a lot of watts. Did a first ride yesterday with the new BB but it did not feel very different. I think there is not a lot of difference between a very bad BB and a good one in terms of Watts, but maybe I'm wrong.

 
One of the threads on the bottle holder on the cockpit of my P5 has come out. Has anyone seen this before?
No idea how this happened, it was stuck in the bottle cage!! Thankfully I hadn't lost it
Shall I just tap it back in or would you suggest I secure/glue it somehow?

I would not repair it, but just use the remaining hole in that you mount the bottle holder with a screw (the same one if long enough) and a nut and a washer on the bottomside of the hole.

Hello,

Recently I've bought new Cervelo P5 2017/2018 frameset with Aduro aerobar and try to install everything. I use Tririg brakes as front and rear brakes. For rear brake I routed the cable housing from aerobar to bottom bracket / rear brake, using middle hole in top tube. With rear wheel installed the brake works until brake pads touch the braking area of the wheel, but then the whole force applied to the brake lever goes into deformation of the brake housing. I guess I did something wrong during routing the brake cable or miss some cable stop (like this one https://www.tritownboise.com/...le-guide-for-p2.html, but I didn't find anything like this in the box). Could you please give me some hints or photos how the rear brake cable should be routed? I tried to find some information on this forum, but with no success.

Many thanks,

Bartosz

Hi everyone,
I noticed recently that the battery cover on my P5 has been rubbing on my back wheel. I went to tighten the screw to hold the cover flush in the rear wheel and the screw has somehow stripped the threaded hole that it fits into and now there is nothing for it to “grab” onto when I try to tighten it. I’ve resorted to duct tape for now to keep it down. Does anyone know the best way to try to fix this? Thanks.

Hi Graham, I have the very same issue on my P5, did you ever get a resolution for this? Thanks

Well this doesn't really deserve its own thread, so I figured I'd revive this relic of a thread. I got with the times and updated my P5-3 with some di2. Decided to whip up a little aero seat post battery holder, as Cervelo made for the newer P5 models (but doesn't seem to be available/in stock anyways). My CAD skills are extremely rudimentary, but it serves the purpose. Just held in by friction. Should anyone need the file or even a 3d print, feel free to reach out - happy to share.

Very cool

Hello All,

It's been a while since I posted here for sure. Glad to be back.

I have a question about my 2013 Cervelo P5-Six. I looked on Cervelo's support site but I didn't see links to previous year's owner's manuals.

Can someone point me to or provide a link to a manual for my specific bike?

Right now I am specifically looking for seatpost clamp torque specs. (The two bolts that keep the post from sliding into the frame).

Of course, I would also like to find the rest of the torque specs etc.

Thanks!

***note: I had to have the frame repaired at the Frame Doctor in FL because the seatpost clamp lugs stripped inside the frame. I want to be very careful as I proceed!

I would imagine you already looked in the frame

On the p2 and p3 it is stamped and painted next to where the seat post goes 4 nm

No idea if it is the same for your frame

I did look on the frame. If the spec was there it isn’t any longer since the frame was repaired in that area.

That's officially 4 nm. Since that's too low for me (and for others) I fasten them with 5 nm, which works fine.

Awesome! Thanks for the good info.

Now if I could just get my hands on an owners manual.

I just received a reply to my appeal for support to Cervelo. No luck unfortunately. How the hell is there not a repository of manuals somewhere?! But alas... I haven't found one yet.

Reply from Cervelo for posterity:

"Thank you for reaching out to Cervélo. Unfortunately, we no longer have any information or data on this bicycle due to its age. I wish I had better news to share with you on the matter.
Should you have any additional questions do not hesitate to reach out.
Thank you,
Anthony Cox | Customer Experience Technical Support"

Ha! I found one on the wayback machine... awww yeah.

2013 Cervelo P5 white paper:

~https://web.archive.org/...f-39946cd71205-0.pdf~

DI2 installation:

https://web.archive.org/web/20130309013747/http://www.cervelo.com/media/docs/P5-Manual-3-c3b79e71-da97-47c3-881b-c6c28594836d-0.pdf


happy dance...


*******EDIT: Never mind. Just the white paper and the DI2 install guide.... (sigh) Thought I had it.*******

I sent you a slowtwitch message.

Hello,

Did anyone setup the P5-6 with the original 3T Aduro base bar with these new extensions that support arm rests? If so, how is your experience so far? I'm considering installing the AeroCoach Ascalon, but would like to know the thoughts from who have done this "upgrade" and if it was worth it...

Thanks a lot.

Like this one here ?
https://www.facebook.com/AeroCoach/photos/a.975349925832980/5115895355111729/?type=3

Yes, those indeed! Oh boy, just by the picture it looks fast. But aside from that, how does it for comfort, installation etc.? Any other model?

I have the Ascalons the on Aduro basebar on my P5. The install is quite simple although the directions seem to lack some information that could make it a bit easier. My issue with the bar/set up is they feel quite short. They way they ship them it’s impossible to get the desired reach. It almost feels like you have t-Rex arms. When you place the order there is an option to make them longer so they fit your forearm better but if you don’t ask/didn’t know that they will very awkward(in my opinion). I ended up having a fabricator where I live make a “reach plate” and then pulled the pads all the way back to make it fit correctly. It feels extremely comfortable now but took some tinkering to do it and ended up costing
More than I wanted. I don’t know how to post pictures in the comments but I can send you some pics if you want to email me.

Justinmendozatriathlon@hotmail.com

Does anybody know when the next bike replacement/upgrade Cervelo P6 or P6d will be released?

.