Hi Doug,

Agreed, our wives sometimes know us better than we know ourselves, LOL!

Thanks for relating your experience about a short hose. I'll retract my statement - clearly sometimes a little extra length can be helpful.

FYI, if you like, consider slotting the fork spacers so they're not captured on the hose. A little careful work with a saw and file can make a neat ~5mm outlet out the back so, once the fork is out, they can be removed and packed separately. We thought of this right after the entire production of P5 fork spacers was complete. :-(

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

wouldn't they still be stuck on the front brake hose?

I've been thinking about doing this not for packing but for position change experiments moving stack up and down.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

2 slots through spacer, out back for brake hose to shifter cable area and then al out the back of that

have you done it? pics? I have a dremmel tool that I could use to do this.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

somewhere in this thread there is an image, either real or gci-ish tha shows it.

I don't have room for any spacers, probably should have left some room, but did not, so I am in pad riser kingdom

I cut mine to give way to cables. Is this what you meant?

yeah, I get the back part but was wondering about the front brake hose.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

I don't recal if the thought was to go out the side of the front with a straight 5mm width cut, or to go out the back, probably was the side

Hi Eric,

No pics, sorry, but I've simply made three ~5mm slots (front to back): hose to steerer, steerer to cable pocket, then out the back.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

The pre-drilled spacer showing the slot made from the front hole of the spacer for the front brakes to the rear of the spacer is shown in Trisports University article: Customized Cervelo P5 Six build with Hydraulic Brake Lever Mounted Di2.

that's great, thanks.

reminds me that I need Di2 also.

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Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”

Thanks Tarochi!

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Well looks like my Black Friday purchase for myself is going to be a frame upgrade to a P5-6! (no they're not being discounted, though did see some complete bike closeouts).

In making my decision I've been reading through this thread and pulled down the technical whitepaper Damon linked. Are there any other papers, articles or sites that would be recommended for setup/build/fitting tips? I had a professional Guru fit completed just recently and will be using that as the blueprint. Just don't want to miss something and do something stupid like cutting down the steerer too short etc. Thanks.

Rob

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Non-Swimming Duathlete

Be cautious with teh Mr Clean sponge it contains a small abrasive mineral and will scuff some surfaces - especially glossy ones

Hi Damon,

I just ordered a P5 Six Di2 size 54, obviously super-exited about that. I used to ride a 56 P3C which got destroyed in an accident and had 175mm cranks on it. My arm pad stack/reach measurements are roughly 610/500mm which puts me both on the 54 or 56 with the low bars -- I am 183.5cm but have long legs (89cm inseam) and have a big drop of ~20cm from top of saddle to aerobars. I tested a 54 P5 in the shop and found it to be a perfect fit for me -- the 56 P3 I had always felt a little too big (aka saddle all the way forward, very short stem).

Anyway, while deciding between the 54 and 56 P5 one question that came up is the crank length -- after the guys in the shop pulled a 54 and 56 P5 out of a box they said that both come with 170mm cranks, and when checking some other P3 etc. in the shop they also had 170mm cranks for the 54 and 56. So question is, is this the new thing, shorter cranks? Does Cervelo ship all 54 and 56 with 170mm cranks? Is that info somewhere on the website (I couldn't find it). Maybe I missed out on a few years of bike research or whatnot but I always thought that for my long legs the 175mm is the way to go...

Thanks,

Mike

Mike -

Cervelo isn't shipping bikes anymore with 175's or greater. See this thread:

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...t_reply;so=ASC;mh=25

And Damon's article:

http://www.cervelo.com/...rs/crank-length.html

Rob

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Non-Swimming Duathlete

Thanks rbrnut, you hit the nail on the head!

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Build is going to start hopefully tomorrow and wanted to see if there was any input from this crowd on my original post below? Thanks.

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Non-Swimming Duathlete

In your building a p5 six, use the chart as provided, maybe stack it 5-10mm high, ride it on the trainer, cut the steerer if needed then have them run the cables, hoses. as Damon and others mentioned you can slot the spacers, but there is not a lot if room for excess tubing.

I am 6' and all legs.. I got a 3d plus 175 crank from competitive cyclist for $300. NOT the aero version that comes with the bike, it does not look as cool, but it is a bit lighter. What crank length did your fitter use on the guru? My fitter was convinced the 170 would not work for me, we never tried it. 172.5 would be ideal, but I was using 175 already and they were 300 cheaper, I also had 172.5 before and liked 175 better. Road racing I have hit bottom with the pedals, one of the negatives of longer crank. the p5 BB is noticeably lower than my P3.

Plenty of data and research on crank length, all of it indicating power is not going to go down by using a 170.

175 may or may not be a negative depending on how flexible your hips are and how aggressive your position. Only way to know is try. The longer the crank the tighter the hip angle at a given drop. So sometimes going to a shorter crank lets you get lower without starting to affect power/comfort.

For what it is worth I am 6'3" and use 172.5, but I've ridden 165, and 170 and 175 and perform the same on all of them. I have hips that don't give a shit.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

I was running a 175 3D+ on my current P3. On the Guru and with video analysis he recommended moving down to 172.5 to open up the hip angle etc. So I picked up a new take off and will be swapping the cranks on the new build. Same 3D+ and running a Power2Max pm. Actually moving up from a 54cm to a 56cm as well.

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Non-Swimming Duathlete

I agree with jack as well, I just "liked" the 175 better, (maybe because it is what is on my road and mountain bike, maybe because I read Leonard zinn's book a decade ago) A 5mm drop seemed a like a lot to me, maybe we didn't play around with the position enough. anyways with my leg length and position the longer crank works. I wasn't trying to indicate that a longer crank is better, but let him know where 175's were available. Mechanically I understand how the shorter arm yields more cadence, but would think it still yields less leverage, but the data is the data there is no loss of power anyway you look at it.

Question for Damon please.

I am wanting to order a P5 six, and am certain I have worked on my size required from stack/ reach. I do however use a praying mantis style, and so wondered if with this set up I can 'angle up' the bars in order to achieve this?

Thanks in advance.

I have just recieved a P3 with magura brakes. The bolts for the brake pad holders are three allen bolts (as standard brake pad bolts) but one is a bolt that requires an open wrench or a socket. This means I should carry a wrench just for this bolt.

I have contacted the retailer which has been in touch with German cervelo, and they claim that it is not possible to to get an allen bolt to replace this bolt. I should just get another brake if I dont like this!!! :-) They say that the rt6 tt is designed for a P5 where there is a need for the non-standard bolt due to the hidden brake placement, and it is not possible to get the brake in other configurations...

Do any of you know where to find an original bolt that matches the brakes or should I just change the brake pad holders and get standard bolts that way (a little anoying after spending all that money on the bike).