Sorry to be off topic, but does anyone know if the P5-3 (UCI legal) would fit on a P3C?

As I recall somewhere in this thread Damon Rinard said that the P5-3 fork did not work on the P3 (I think this was before the newest version came out).

Hi Orbilius,

Yep, the P5-Three fork will fit your P3C and will work with perfect mechanical function, but there will be a cosmetic mismatch at the crown/frame interface.

Maybe consider an FK26 instead:



The blades on both forks share the same gloriously fast aero cross sections of the P4 fork (See "The P4 fork - a Prodigious Father" for the background story at http://www.cervelo.com/...odigious-father.html ).

The FK26 fork is just a better cosmetic match to the P3C's head tube.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Thank you!

I assume I can give you guys a call regarding purchasing an FK26?

I asked about the p5-3 fork because there seem to be a good amount of them selling on Ebay, pulled from new P5s, for around $100. Seems like a decent $/watt upgrade over the Funda - around 5w@30mph@0deg, right?

Hi Orbilius,

Just get in touch with your Cervelo retailer for FK26 info. But based on your post, I suspect a P5 fork from ebay will be less expensive.

The Funda's a good fork. It's only about one or two Watts off the best modern aero forks. Still, "faster is faster!"

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Anyone have any idea how difficult it might be to cut off one hole width of each armrest? essentially get the rest trimmed to the inside edge of the first hole of 3, such that 2 rows remain? I am assuming these are carbon and thus one may want to execute some due care for integrity and inhalation, if it is possible. As currently configured, I am using the middle set of rows of the rests with the closest setting on the wing extenders. This leaves about 2-4mm between armrests and makes them more or less 19cm outside edge to outside edge. I'd like to get it down to 17cm or less. So one row needs to be removed. screws would then go through 3rd row of rest and extenders and thus hopefully completely avoid any potential stress risers near the cut.

i have some zipp vuka rests but i dont care for the shape or rise of those puppies. the support had a block edge that wraps around the cups for bolt support/installation.

the 3T seem much smoother, but they are too wide to bring in narrow enough when combined with zipp wing extenders. I also like that the 3T can give a further back position, as I prefer rests closer to elbows. Else i Need to figure a way to make the ends of the pads thicker, but that also does not seem very aero.

we're talking every last 0.0001 CdA here ;)

Dear Gentlemen,
Squeaking noise has started from the plastic aero cover on the Magura front at the non drive side, which reminded me of the previous thread of May 9th 2013. It's totally the same issue, except for Bora wheel with 23mm I'm using. The cover won't return to the original position the way its break caliper is back on there, which makes clatter noise on the iron skirt (screwed with three tiny bolts), once I pull the break lever a little tight. But, It can be returned by manual. What's remedy I should take ? Will Cervelo provide me another cover, won't you ?

File off part of the 'beard'...you call it the iron skirt. That will do it. Just file off some of the bottom portion of that and you should be good to go.

---

Brandon Marsh - Website | @BrandonMarshTX | RokaSports | 1stEndurance | ATC Bikeshop |

Oh, well. I expected other idea better than the file, because it worked well before.
Perhaps, putting washer inside of the break holder to move less, strengthening the plastic cover somewhere with tape, reforming the plastic cover with heat, greasing the caught position to be slick, and others. Filling looks no good, examining the way caught on the iron skirt. Did original thread person or other gentlemen solve this ?

I just got new Zipp 808s for my P5 six. Im having trouble opening up the brake calipers enough on the back brakes. The front wheel is okay. But I'm afraid if I keep opening up the back brake caliper the adjustment screw will come out.

If I keep opening up the back brake caliper can the screw come out? If so, is the screw hard to put back in?

It would be fine if the brake pads were parallel to the wheel surface, but with the angle I feel like I have to open it up really big to make enough clearance.

Any tips?

You have to back the screw all the way to a stop to bleed the brakes anyway, mine fit 808s fine on the rear without the washers. As long as you just making easy clicks out with the adjustment screw I think it would be difficult or impossible for it to fall out. Pushing it in have read about. Playing with pad height can make the clearance better or worse as well.

Corrected auto spell correct, don't post while riding slowly on a closed course waiting for others to catch up.

Hi mercuryvapor,

Mdfletcher has good advice.

The adjustment screw in the lever is connected to the master cylinder piston push rod, it doesn't come out in the direction you're turning it. It's when turning the other direction you have to watch out: don't screw it completely through the barrel nut; keep all threads engaged.

As well, consider moving the rear wheel back a few millimeters. Then you can adjust the brake shoes "lower" on the caliper legs, where they're farther apart.

Cheers,

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Damon is there a schematic of the Magura brake lever available? The idiots at my bike shop took off the brake and a few parts fell to the floor and they do not have a clue how to put it back together. Unbelievable.
The parts are two small pins and two barrel thread screws

Hi iurnman,


Oops! That's no fun. The only manual I'm aware of is on Magura's site:


http://www.magura.com/en/bicyclecomp/products/rim-brakes/rt8-tt-1/downloads.html


On page 5 is the most detailed drawing of the lever, but it's not an exploded view.

From experience, the most likely to separate parts are the wedges and their retaining spring (the tightening screws are likely still in the lever body). You can see all but the screws in that image, shown in their correct positions.

Here's a CAD rendering. The left side shows those parts:



Here's a photo showing basically the same view as the line drawing in the manual:






FYI, the lever is symmetrical, so each side has identical (and interchangeable) wedges, no specific lefts or rights. As well, each wedge is also symmetrical (tapers on both ends), so there's one less way it can be assembled wrong.

Basically, put the parts on the lever body as shown.

Hope that helps!

---

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

afternoon...you mention arm plates to help widen the arm pads...anything in specific that you have seen. Having a hard time finding anything at my LBS'

I just need another cm on either side....clavicle plate make a narrower position tough on my shoulder after about 50 miles.

Thx

Brian

Others have mentioned using the Zipp Vuka pad extenders:

http://www.glorycycles.com/...zsobwCFWoV7AodnGAA4g

Did you leave the electrical tape on the battery while the Sugru setup around the battery? What about after the Oogoo had setup?

Note: I need to remove the saddle/seat post to transport my bike in the vehicle so I'd like the battery to be removable but still be firmly in place while riding. I currently have a small, plastic shim glued to the battery to hold it in place in the seat tube. This allows the battery to be removed from the inside of the post rather than leaving the battery in place and disconnecting (often) the wire and thereby risking degradation of the port connector.

---

/Howie Nordström

I left the tape on both while the Sugru set up and afterwards. I have not removed the battery from the seat post.

Did you figure it out? I have plenty of experience on putting the lever back together.

Thanks so much Forkum! yes I believe I did. the pins were what pushes into the wedges and believe it or not the fine mechanics at All3 Sports pushed the barrel bolts all the way through so nothing was really holding the brakes in except the wedge (loose) and bar tape.

Anyone have specifics on how to do this and what I need? After my terrible build from the shop I bought the bike from I am leaning towards doing this myself. Specifically filling the brake line and bleeding them I think I know how but wanted to check with others and Damon. thanks in advance. There is no place that has more info on this bike than this thread!

Slowtwitch has article on bleeding brakes, there is also a you tube video from magura. The instructions on cervelos website are adequate for someone how knows how to build bikes and needs to know what's different about the p5, it's a PDF and basically tells you what you need to know.

The big quirk I found was when using a 5mm spacer and only a 5mm spacer I had to leave the center bolt out of the beard to get it mate up properly with the anti rotation screw. Otherwise the 2 collided, maybe I could have trimmed a screw or was using the wrong lengths.

Make sure you remove the cable bucket from the frame if you use an aduro! Otherwise it won't steer or you will shear your di2 cable.

Guys forgive me...trying to get to grips with my new P5 and in particular the Magura brakes. It is set up for the Cosmic CXR 80 wheels and the brakes just-just open up wide enough for those wheels.

Problem is my training wheels are much narrower and I need the close in the brake pads but I can't and I'm afraid to F it up. I have read how to do it here and in other places, I'm a visual learner, does anyone know of a video of how to do this??

Thanks.

Do you have the washers installed between the brake arms and the pads? You will likely want them for narrow wheels, otherwise you just turn the Allen head inside the brake lever in, you need to be carefull that you don't turn it in so far that the bolt falls through. Just look as your doing it.

Thanks for reply.

Yeah there is one washer, is it simply a matter of adding another 1/2 washers?? If I go down the 2.5 Allen key route - what direction should I be turning and where would I look to see if the bolt falls through?

(Sorry if daft questions...assume I know nothing!)