Where did you put your blip box?

He's still running mechanical. eTap not yet installed.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

Like gman said I haven’t installed etap yet, but there is a post earlier in the thread which shows that you can install it under the dragonfly mount which looks very clean!

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Terrible Tuesday’s Triathlon

Wow thanks I will check that out this weekend!

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Terrible Tuesday’s Triathlon

I have some pictures here with the blip box mounted below the dragonfly and others here with the bike finished. Sorry for being lazy and not posting a bunch a pictures on this thread. Moderators can remove this post if it is in violation. I have the appropriate screw listed as well.


I've been using the Alpha One / etap since the spring and love it. It looks very clean to me and I almost never notice the blip box from any angle. It was easier to install and all I am using is the bar end clics and no other blips, but even with extra blips it would be easy to install compared to hiding it in other places. Plus when time comes to change the battery it will be easier than digging into the Calpac if I placed it there.

Here is mine under the dragonfly.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

Thanks guys. That's exactly what I was looking for.

Dear TriRig team,




I think we have different perspectives from which we are looking at the issue. You have commercial point of view: sell as much as you can and limit costs where you can. My perspective is a point of view of a user of your product, who

• invested many months into hard training to prepare himself for a competition in A-category race,
• invested lot of money into premium product offered by you to get the most out of his setup on that day
• and who finally was faced with the situation that one week before that race your premium product got broken what excluded him from the competition.

Looking from your perspective of cost saving I fully understand the two proposals I got from you: either I would pay you additional $170 for expedited shipping or you would send me a replacement free of charge by standard shipping, which I would get in 3 weeks without a chance to participate in the A-race. I paid you additional money to save all my efforts and already incurred travel costs to the location of the race, but frankly speaking for me it was a vary bad experience. Maybe it's only typical for my country, but within warranty period of premium product I would expect from seller support services really helping users with their problems instead of forcing them to pay additional money in critical situation like that one. Especially if user followed specifications provided by you. Please, think how you can improve on that for the future.


This is what I cannot confirm. I send you already multiple photos of the replacement showing that it came to me in worse conditions than my broken bar. I would never classify it as a new / unused bar. You also hadn't provided me with any information that the bar you were going to send me at additional cost from my side would be of that bad conditions. This whole situation is not acceptable for me as a customer and at least in EU it's not legal. Let me contact you to agree how we can proceed with it.


Putting warranty replacement issue aside, I'm really convinced that Alpha One has design issue related to single point of failure at the monopost mount. I was really lucky to face that problem of broken bar at home, having my bike on indoor trainer. But - please, put aside for a moment the perspective of cost saving and think what can happen to a person riding your product like me with average speed of 45-48kph and facing such problem during competition, when one typically gives all out. Maybe it was only about my item and we will be able to solve it by warranty replacement. But maybe it's also a task for you to think about how to make this product safe or at least improve your quality assurance before given item is released for sale.

Sounds like you and TriRig parting ways, and then leaving this thread alone would be a win-win-win for you, TriRig, and the rest of us.

That's pretty bold to state you think there is a "design problem" and "safety issue" with the Alpha when the sample is "1". People have logged thousands of miles on the Alpha bars (on the trainer and outside) and you are the only one I have heard of who has managed to destroy one where the monopost connects to the basebar. My Alpha has been rock solid for thousands of miles(and having raced IM70.3AZ on some terrible roads last weekend without a single issue/squeak/slip/crack, etc it hasn't been compromised or shown any sign of a "design flaw".) My wife's Alpha has also been perfect (and she has the monopost extended much higher than I do.) My guess is one of a few things happened 1) Your Alpha was a defect/lemon. That is possible in any manufactured product. If that's the case I am confidant Tririg would stand behind their product 2) you did something to the bar (inadvertently) that caused it to fail (crashed, over torqued the bolt, rode with the monopost not tightened down causing too much movement, etc., bar installed incorrectly, etc.) It happens to the best of us (I have over torqued things not realizing I change the setting on my wrench.) You seem convinced it is a "design and safety issue." What do you think the safety issue is?.. simply the fact that it is a monopost? Under normal condition the bar and its design seems to have held up out in the real world. The fact that yours broke on the trainer makes me think something else is going on with your bar as the mono-post is going to see much lighter forces on a trainer vs. being outside on the road with potholes, speedbumps, etc. Were you just riding along at 250W on the trainer and the base bar cracked to the point of being unusable? If something were truly wrong with the design I think we would all want to know about it but so far I don't think I have seen any evidence in your post to cause me any concern about the design of the bar I ride every day.

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Team Zoot

I'm glad you said this.....I mean, is there such a product with a 0% failure rate? It sucks that he had a bad experience with the product. I think almost everyone in here has probably had an issue with at least one of our bike components/parts/frames whatever over the years, but that doesn't necessarily mean there is a design defect with any of those parts.

is anyone running this on the new IA disc? any issues?

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"If you want to experience all of the successes and pleasure in life, you have to be willing to accept all the pain and failure that comes with it"

Is there any particular (rim) brake lever that people like on these things?

I run the Shimano di2 levers as seen below.

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Team Zoot

The Shimano levers in general are always our first choice. Either the Di2 ones shown just above, or the standard levers for non-Di2 bikes, model numbers BL-TT78 (alloy) and BL-TT79 (carbon). They pull a bit more cable than most levers, which generally means greater max power.

Thanks also to the many customers who have described great experiences with the bar either publicly or privately to us. We try to service all customers who have troubles or issues, and although we will never get it 100% right, we are always striving to do better.

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TriRig.com

What length clics are you using and what is extension length? Trying to figure out if 500mm is long enough for this set up.

The eTap AXS aero gruppo comes with 650mm Clics. The TriRig Gamma One extensions are really, really long. I'm fairly tall with long arms and I cut like 3 to 4 inches off the extensions. I don't think 500mm would be long enough with the uncut extensions.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

That might be true *for uncut extensions* and if you insisted on running the clic wire *all the way through* that uncut extension. But as a practical matter, no one is going to run that setup. Even if you temporarily use uncut extensions for fit purposes, you can exit the clic wire much farther forward, then enter the Alpha One base bar via the hole in the cable cover just behind the Monopost. In that event, the 500mm clics may be perfectly adequate.

That said, I'd *ALWAYS* go for the 650mm version. A wire that's too long is no problem at all; just push any excess into the extension, or the stem cavity, or wherever. A wire that's too short, on the other hand, is a pain, and usually needs to be replaced.

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TriRig.com

Manute Bol could've used the uncut extensions. Arguably nobody else. :-)

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

Nick or anyone else who might be able to assist...
I have the Alpha One installed on two bikes. The monopost is set at 1.5 on each. There is a fair bit of side to side play/wiggle to everything mounted to the monopost. There's no wiggle and everything is rock solid if the monopost is slammed. So it's definitely the monopost that's wiggling like it needs a shim or something. See attached video link and turn up volume to hear it wiggling. The set screw is tightened to spec and tried to tighten it a bit more to see if that helps but it does not. Same issue on both bikes.

It moves a lot so it's a bit unnerving when my contact point is wiggling like that bar is gonna come loose. Anyone else have this issue.

https://i.imgur.com/6uO1Mvb.mp4

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

Something is NOT right there. My guess is that there isn't enough torque on the Wedge. You can safely go to 10 Nm there, which most people don't do at first. Can you increase torque and report back?

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TriRig.com

Did that. Went beyond 10 even. Like I said, two bikes with the same issue.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

I tightened to 12 and that seems to stop the wiggle. 😳

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

Thanks for sharing your install! I just copied your solution and it fits perfectly! Now I still have to press and tighten the RS-910 into the extension and drill a hole so the cable can run to the stem.
Grtz
Philip

I had the same issue, used carbon paste over tightened the bolt switched to the alloy post (from memory was originally the carbon post), and also narrowed up the pads in a bike fitting plus screwed pads on with diagonal screws rather than in a line, and ran slightly higher basebar less extension. Flex on the monopost problem pretty much disappeared. Your experience may vary. Tririg were pretty helpful in solving by PM. So far I would say they have been outstanding service wise actually - only h2o audio the waterproof earbud I shuffle guys and Ritz-Carlton hotel are comparable.

FYI I thought it was an alpha one issue until I had a play with the canyon monopost which had a little movement and then the cervelo monopost which was a noodle. Of course I don't know exactly how my friends had set their bikes up... Seems like its a bit of the compromise for any one post system, what I have done is also started riding thinking 'soft hands light elbows' as maybe my old canyon and qr both had much more solid heavier cockpits so I ended up quite rough on them.