I put the junction box into two plastic bags to sort of protect the electronics. It's secured with elastic bands x 2. Takes a minute or two to push the wires down into the bottom and the brake to the top/right and get it settled in all nice 'n snug. Then the cover can go on. I got a rubber cut out at the top to place the front electronic cables and used the box that the tri rig came in to cut our a square box of black styrafoam to block out any water coming into the open space.

Major props to Cycling Concepts who had a few guys put their heads together to take on this project: including-Sondre, Calvin and Jonathan.



https://imgur.com/a/kW2wKCp



https://imgur.com/a/lEgjC46



https://imgur.com/a/EiktPjK




https://imgur.com/a/N0jbKeU



https://imgur.com/a/sdNDcUO



https://imgur.com/a/F7QwFtn


I know there were trade offs in doing it this way. I wanted clean more than anything else. But it worked well. Everything is inside and I can use my bento box for an actual bento box.

I cannot see lights anymore and do not know the status of the battery/mode of shifting. I just make sure to charge it regularly and when I do I can always connect to the 'etube project' on line to make changes in the shifting algo.

Thanks for the extra photo's, I didn't realize quite how far you'd gone! I'd certainly want some plastic if I had to strip the junction box down to the PCB...

Currently mines in the bento, fine whilst it's on the trainer, but it does interfere with the steering.

The faq indicates that you can run bare front brake cable, that would certainly help get the box in.

Well, you can put the two of us in the same boat. My LBS surprised me by saying they couldn’t get the junction box into the stem along with my hydraulic front brake cable. I’m frustrated with an external installation.

I saw the option above about filing the box down and will consider that option. Where did you end up?

Anyone out there with other ideas on how to make it work?

Scott

I ordered a 3d printed external mount, once it arrives I'll take a photo or two.

Intrigued! Keep us posted.

Hey Thread; I’m toying with the idea of making room in the stem cavity by routing the front cable directly into the basebar. That would require drilling an alternate entry. Anyone have thoughts on that?

Scott

Sorry if it’s already been covered but how much flex between the basebar and monopost is deemed “acceptable”? If I shift weight there’s a small, but very noticeable movement from side to side...makes me pretty uncomfortable to be honest.

Have you considered trying to install the EW-RS910 junction box in the end of one of the extensions? You need to get the cables in and out of the extensions somehow, but I guess it should be possible to do rather cleanly.

I think this is the way to go.

If the 4-way JC41 or JC40 with the back snapped off will fit in the cavity that'll connect the rear & two basebar wires.

Then with a y-split JC130 it should be possible to connect the 910 junction box & both extension shifters. I'm not sure if there's any requirement on where the short end of the JC130 would need to be though.

I appreciate the thought, but unfortunately I don’t see how it would fit.

Very disappointed with the junction box cavity on the A1.

Scott

I bit the bullet and used a dremel to file down my junction box today. With that modification, I was able to squeeze the box into the cavity. It’s rather inelegant, with more squishing than I like, but it “works”.

Scott

Post Squish


Pre-Squish

Congratulations on getting it in there. I'm guessing given the squishing that tightening the headset is a little tricky.

I'm still leaning towards dumping the 5-port for a bar end di2 box.

Yes, I’d prefer a more refined solution.

Walk me thorough your plan for the bar end Di2 box? I didn’t realize that was a different junction box when responding to MTM above.

Scott

I've noticed this a lot on the trainer. I don't mind it flexing a bit but I'll admit to being a bit nervous of what'll happen outside if I hit something with the front wheel.

I don't really want to test it but it bends enough for me to *think* I could snap it. I'm likely wrong, it's probably far too strong for me to snap, but I'd love to see a body weight dropped on one cup to indicate it's unlikely to give out.

I believe the new 2-port box can be squeezed in the end of an aero bar. There's a couple of holes in the bottom of the aero bar so I can take a wire through there & back to the headset cavity.

That moves the di2 button & charging port to a far more accessible location but there's still 5 wires to connect.

A 4 way box + a y splitting cable should get it all connected & fit in the cavity with a lot more space. I just need to double check the dimensions of the 4 way box (& the cavity) before buying parts.

Ok, tell me if I have this right:

-insert EW-RS910 junction box into the back end of one extension
-connect 2x extension shifters to 1x EW-RS910 via JC-130 Y split cable
-connect JC-130, 2x basebar shifters and battery to 4-way JC41 or JC40 junction box in the stem cavity

I’m new to Di2, so please be gentle.

Scott

I have kind of the same setup instead I used another b-junction and short wires in place of the y-splitter. But as long as everything is plugged in, your solution should work.

The bar end A-junction is great for trimming the RD and for charging

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Patiently but anxiously waiting for my Alpha One.

I will wait until it comes, but does TriRig use the entire 6 to 7 weeks for shipping as noted on the order page?
Did any of you reach out to TriRig to get a status on shipment time?

Yes, it did take the entire back order period to get the bars. I ordered my A1 back in December, waited the 6-7 weeks, got the three week delay email, and finally received the box in the mail right at 10 weeks. It was a tough waiting period, but I am super glad that I did. The bar looks awesome on my Shiv and the ergo pads/ gamma one extension combo is really comfortable.

To jump in on the Di2 installation convo: I used two JC-41s inside the stem cavity and mounted the 5-port EW90B under my saddle. I will say that I really had to jam all the wiring in under the stem cavity cover, but once it is tightened down it really makes no difference. This also allows me to access the charging port without having to pop open the stem cover.

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Jon Ryder
RPM Coaching

Good to know. I can wait, but as you say it is tough because I have the etap group in boxes at home and some other related upgrades waiting for the A1 to arrive. Meanwhile I can wait because the reality is that I am way behind on training/fitness and will be doing most of that on a dedicated trainer bike once I am clear of this work deadline.

You ran 4 wires from stem to saddle...? I fully understand and appreciate not shoving everything in the cavity and being able to access the charging port without removing the cover but that seems awfully excessive.

Please shoot us an email to support@tririg.com with video of what’s going on and we will be happy to help.

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TriRig.com

4 wires to a pair of JC41 in the stem, one wire to EW90B under the saddle. I I think there is an extra JC41 somewhere else in the frame to connect Fr/Rr Derailleurs and battery (been a while since I wired the thing up).

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Jon Ryder
RPM Coaching

Can you explain this in a bit more detail? I’m interested, but having trouble visualizing the connections.

Scott

Ok sure, I'll try to be descriptive. I have a Felt IA so just keep that in mind, though the principles are the same.

I have junction-A plugged into the back of one extension, and two junction-B boxes taped together that are behind the brake cover / nose cone. There is also a junction-B in the BB area that connects to the battery/RD/FD

The brake lever wires run to one of junction-B boxes (2 wires), so there are now 2 slots left in the first junction B.

One of TT shifters runs to the same first junction-B; so now there is one slot left.

The last slot has a wire going from itself to the second junction-B (all slots on the first are full now).

That second junction-B has a wire that runs from itself back to the junction-A, into one of its slots (so now the second junction-B has two slots left). The second TT shifter is plugged into the other junction-A slot (now the junction-A is full).

The wire from the BB area junction-B (that connect the FD and RD) runs up and plugs into one of slots on the second junction-B. That second junction b now has one unused slot that is empty.

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the world's still turning? >>>>>>> the world's still turning

Thanks for the details.

Sure would be a lot easier if the stem cavity was 1cm deeper!

Scott