try removing the rear brake cover and actuating the brake while you watch what's happening down there...easiest in a stand of course, particularly if the stand lets you rotate the BB up closer to eye level. that way you should be able to figure out if it's something at the brake arms...if nothing obvious jumps out at you there may be some sort of routing issue.

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Carl Matson

btw.. just to be sure.. what components do I have to change to get it UCI legal?

bar, rear brake cover, and fork at a minimum.

both seatposts are UCI legal as far as profile (3:1 ratio), but which one you need may depend on your setback needs. the 50mm offset post makes it much easier to get 5cm or more of setback, but the 15mm offset post can probably do it with some saddles at higher saddle heights.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl. I re-ran new housing/cable (I ditched the double ferrule since I don't plan on changing fit) and put in some more slack in the basebar. This seems to fix my brake issue. Now lets just hope it doesn't rattle.


On another note, has anyone put any salt stick dispenser's on the mono-extensions? I was thinking of just zip tieing the dispenser to the side of the mono extension near the stem.

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TO zip tied salt stick dispensers to the BTA bottle mount at Kona this year.

When will the bta mount for black plastic be back in stock? I cant justify $90 for some design of a carbon one.

I'm seeing late February as the ETA for the rail-only.

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Carl Matson

a question for all, if anyone has some good info!
My wife suprised me for chrissy to a trip to kona for the 2015 champs. I do more sprint distance but still have a keen interest in IM, so looking forward to this one!
i was thinking of taking my trek SC. To hire a tri bike, like a shiv, is a minimum of $75 US a day with a minimum of 7 day hire at that time. Thats approx $700 AUS, which is nuts.... I may even hire a roadie.
BUT i was curious, what is a good bike box in particular (if there is such one) for the trek which involves the LEAST pulling apart and is well protected? There is no way i am comfortable enough to mess with this bikes settings and pulling it to bits, so the less the local wrench has to mess it up, the better. Any reccomendations would be great! Thanks

Scicon aerocomfort triathlon

I don't have it but I'm considering buying one to replace my aerus biospeed bag. I really despise breaking down the bike to fit in my bag. With the scicon, the only thing that I would remove are the pedals and possibly the speed fin but it's possibke you don't even have to do that.

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i use the ironcase with the Trek SC

http://www.tricosports.com/iron_case.html

I've done a couple of flights with mine in a Bike Box Alan and so far so good.

(Wheels off and in the lid, rear brake cover off, pedals off, seatpost out, basebar unbolted but leaving all cables attached and just taking the front and rear brakes out of their keepers to give me a little more play. So far I have left the rear derailleur attached and untouched - I may be less bold in the future and start removing it.)


Cheers

that one looks like the go, cheers for that

Hi Carl

Just got around to asking this question. The speed fin on my bike doesn't seem to sit very well with the rest of the frame - there's a definite "lip" pretty much all around no matter what I try when putting it on. I've tried to embed a couple of pictures but in case I get that wrong there should be a link to them in a Flickr album as well:

• Link 1
• Link 2

It's one of those things that annoys me for a bit when I see it / think about it and then I forget for ages because I don't see it given it's location.

I did ask my local Trek dealer (who I bought the bike through) and they didn't really have any comment at all. Their mechanic had a look to see if it was something in the way I was putting it on but he agreed that was just the way it "fit" on my bike. They weren't offering to see about getting it fixed. Is this normal and can it be fixed? (It's got to be costing me at least 1s over a 140.6! - i.e I get it's probably not major in the scheme of everything but it does bother me and I really don't think it would have been designed like that.)


Cheers

The rear brake plate is slotted fore-aft where you mount it to the frame...it's not much travel, but it's there...if the plate is all the way forward on those slots then the speedfin goes along for the ride and could result in what you've got pictured. If this is the case and you do move the brake rearward you'll probably want to redo your brake pad location too.

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Carl Matson

I just ordered this bag for my speed concept. I do quite a bit of traveling for races and have always used Tribike Transport, but with their ever increasing rates and the amount of time you lose your bike before and after the race while it's in transit I finally have had enough and decided that this year I'm just going to fly with mine. A friend of mine recommended this case and she said it really is as easy as Scicon claims. I ordered it from ProBikeKit as it was by far the best price I could find online. It should be here within the next couple weeks. I'll give it a try and then can let you know how it works.

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Instagram | Team Kiwami North America

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http://www.athlinks.com/athletes/208730390

Cheers Carl - I'll have a look and see if this is the culprit. Thanks for the quick reply (and knowing the bike well enough to figure out this could be the issue!).

Cheers

Thanks. Please let me know how it works out. My travel race isn't until May so I have some time before pulling the trigger.

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I'm trying to decide on a deep rear wheel and adding a cover from Wheelbuilder (likely a Flo 90) or just pay a bit more and go with a full disc. I see on the Wheelbuilder site that the SC is not compatible with an Aerojacket. Just curious from any SC owners if they've gotten it to work. Sounds like the DuoTrap mount is what causes the issue.

Many have. My own list of successful installs includes Aeolus5.0, Aeolus D3 5-7-9. A forum search will turn up several others.

Wheelbuilder probably chooses to say SC-incompatible because they can't vouch for every possible combination of rim and cover (or the tips and tricks many use to address perceived shortcomings of the design).

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Carl Matson

Was not all an issue for me with the stock wheels -Bontrager Race.

I had a Wheelbuilder cover on a Zipp 808 on my 2014 7.5, no problem.

I had a wheelbuilder cover on my SC 9 with Zipp 404. No issues.

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On the internet, you can be anything you want. It is a pity so many people choose to be stupid.

Hi!
I'd really like to get some advice on what frame size I should go for for a 2015 SC7.5. I did a bike fit a few days ago and the fitter couldn't guarantee me which frame size would fit me best, L or XL with a near/mid stem. He also doubted that I could sit as aggressively as I did for a long time, so he advised me to get a stem with some room to increase stack.

Here're my numbers in mm and degrees:

My saddle height is 846 (I know, long legs ... 946 inseam. Slightly lower saddle would do as well, but would like to be able reach my max saddle height as well)
Arm pad stack 671
Back arm pad reach 393 (from BB to pad, mid pad would be about 445)
Seat tube angle 81
Frame stack 549
Frame reach 390
Saddle setback -3m
Grip reach: 763

All measurements scream frame size L, but I'm concerned about the saddle height as max would be "only" 841.

Thanks for any advice you're able to give!